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Power shower electrics | One for a qualified sparky / plumber?

Old Jan 17, 2014 | 03:32 PM
  #31  
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There is a pump in the airing cupboard, it's fine.

There's a pump inside the power shower casing, that's the one that's giving off more noise than a 4" piped subaru, but sounds like gravel in a washing machine on full chat.

http://www.showerdoc.com/watermill-o...-shower-spares
shower doctor who seem to have bought all remaining parts for it don't have any replacement pumps
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 03:52 PM
  #32  
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Update:

old 'power shower' still going and still sounds like gravel in a washing machine on full chat

new consumer unit installed on t'other side of house

floorboards lifted and holes drilled in joists in preparation for 10mm2? cable

Last edited by riiidaa; Jun 26, 2014 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #33  
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Puzzled why you went this route in the end? Is it better for you or better for the people doing the work?
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #34  
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John, you're puzzled as to why I want a high flowing electric rather than a power shower which puts out lots of water but will go cold?
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #35  
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You could put it that way, but as per earlier in the thread, the high flow electric will not really be high flow and the power shower doesn't need to go cold quickly with a correctly sized tank. However, it sounds like you are in the midst of upheaval to achieve this so I really shouldn't be undermining your decision especially since you've seen it, you have to stand under the thing and are paying for it
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 08:42 PM
  #36  
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Time will tell mate, time will tell. I'll certainly be looking at the litres per minute section of specs for each shower in the running to replace the existing one.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 10:47 PM
  #37  
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How many litres hot water / minute do you need time get clean.
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:21 PM
  #38  
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Surely change the pump as above. A power shower is far better
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 11:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by b3nmw
Surely change the pump as above. A power shower is far better
Please read properly post #28 and #31, the pump inside the shower housing is ****ed, and it cannot be replaced.

Last edited by riiidaa; Jun 26, 2014 at 11:40 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 05:25 PM
  #40  
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The power shower gravel noise is wavering now, it won't be long before it fails I'm sure.

So I need to select the right Electric shower to buy now, thinking a 10.5k with a decent flow rate

Have come across an Aqualisa quarts at a decent price via https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/

but it says suitable for mains fed water...

Now the cold supply here is gravity fed with an in-line pump (brand new, in situ but yet to be powered up because we suspected it'd destroy the old power shower), once brought online won't that effectively make it as good as mains fed?
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 06:43 PM
  #41  
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it should do, but be careful with the flow rates. not sure on normal tap pressure, but I think our tap is 10 litres per minute. so if your pump is higher pressure you will have a higher flow rate, you could use a pressure reducing valve to lower it if needed.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 02:49 PM
  #42  
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HOLY THREAD REVIVAL BATMAN

So, the fusebox is now a consumer unit, the inline pump in the airing cupboard apparently does 2bar.

The 10mm cable is where it needs to be.

I've been making do with basin tap fed shower hose kit ever since I deemed the power shower derelict. It's now been removed, ready for replacement.

Need to select a 9.5k minimum perhaps 10.5k electric shower preferably with

push button on/off
high flow rate, litre/min
requires only 2 bar from cold supply (gravity fed with inline pump)

Suggestions on make model welcome, I thought I was on to a winner with Triton Martinique but then read; The shower must be connected to a mains water supply with a minimum running pressure of 100kPa (10 bar)
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 03:31 PM
  #43  
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100Kpa = 1 bar
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 03:32 PM
  #44  
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From the manual I kindly downloaded
To ensure activation of the heating elements,
the shower must be connected to a mains water
supply with a minimum running pressure of
100kPa (1.0 bar) at a minimum flow rate of nine
litres per minute for the 9.5kW rated model.
For the 10.5kW rated shower, the minimum
running pressure must be 150kPa (1.5 bar) at a
minimum flow rate of eleven litres per minute.
For all models the maximum static pressure must
be 1 000kPa (10 bar).
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 04:05 PM
  #45  
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thanks John, hadn't checked my units calc app yet, the manual extract makes sense, so my inline pump should be suitable then
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 04:09 PM
  #46  
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As long as the pump maintains the minimum pressures at the required flow rates.

I have a water pump that does half the house. It turns off at 3.5 bar which it can just reach when there is no flow, but with one shower running full blast just manages to maintain about 2.0 bar.

If you have a pressure gauge, run it at the required rate to fill a bucket and see what the pressure is maintained at.

Last edited by john banks; Jul 15, 2015 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 04:15 PM
  #47  
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for that i need to do the die-hard 3; litres of water in jugs testing?


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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 04:15 PM
  #48  
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ah, you edited. Ok, thanks
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 05:16 PM
  #49  
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hmmm
http://secure.tritonshowers.co.uk/el...ml#prettyPhoto

this one has more convenient entry points, only thing it doesn't have is phased shut down which seems to prevent lime scale but that's not a major concern 'ere.

My old man said the 10mm cable is 37ft long, 11.2776 metres. I'm still good to go for a 10.5kw shower?
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 05:31 PM
  #50  
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http://ipdgroup.com.au/ipdwc/VoltageDrop.aspx

About 0.98%, which is fine.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 05:44 PM
  #51  
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excellent, thanks
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 01:38 PM
  #52  
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After much deliberation I decided I wanted thermostatic feature so went with:

Triton T80Z Thermostatic 9.5kw Electric Shower White/Chrome
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