Psyko blobeye log
25 October 2013, 08:42 PM
#31
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Not really just at the minute pal. Want a map tweek as I have changed several little bits which sometimes add up to something that Andy might be able to tinker with.
Got to finish off my winter service next week also, and get some of this dam sound deadening out of the thing
. Also got some 'special' heat reducing ideas on my IC pipe I really need to do before the map and RR session. Car hasn't been RR with the Meth map so be interesting to see what it makes.
Plan in the next few months is to find a 2.1 CDB forged build short motor, then swap that out, tinker with the heads (ie port) and probably reverse manifold it. I hope that will give me 500BHP without Meth which should be adequate for me for a short time! Its a road car at the end of the day and don't want to move beyond that really.
Then I got to start with the Mrs Type RA
Got to finish off my winter service next week also, and get some of this dam sound deadening out of the thing
. Also got some 'special' heat reducing ideas on my IC pipe I really need to do before the map and RR session. Car hasn't been RR with the Meth map so be interesting to see what it makes. Plan in the next few months is to find a 2.1 CDB forged build short motor, then swap that out, tinker with the heads (ie port) and probably reverse manifold it. I hope that will give me 500BHP without Meth which should be adequate for me for a short time! Its a road car at the end of the day and don't want to move beyond that really.
Then I got to start with the Mrs Type RA
25 October 2013, 09:16 PM
#32
Not really just at the minute pal. Want a map tweek as I have changed several little bits which sometimes add up to something that Andy might be able to tinker with.
Got to finish off my winter service next week also, and get some of this dam sound deadening out of the thing. Also got some 'special' heat reducing ideas on my IC pipe I really need to do before the map and RR session. Car hasn't been RR with the Meth map so be interesting to see what it makes.
Plan in the next few months is to find a 2.1 CDB forged build short motor, then swap that out, tinker with the heads (ie port) and probably reverse manifold it. I hope that will give me 500BHP without Meth which should be adequate for me for a short time! Its a road car at the end of the day and don't want to move beyond that really.
Then I got to start with the Mrs Type RA
Got to finish off my winter service next week also, and get some of this dam sound deadening out of the thing
. Also got some 'special' heat reducing ideas on my IC pipe I really need to do before the map and RR session. Car hasn't been RR with the Meth map so be interesting to see what it makes. Plan in the next few months is to find a 2.1 CDB forged build short motor, then swap that out, tinker with the heads (ie port) and probably reverse manifold it. I hope that will give me 500BHP without Meth which should be adequate for me for a short time! Its a road car at the end of the day and don't want to move beyond that really.
Then I got to start with the Mrs Type RA
Do you have any trouble with the filter getting wet down in the wing?
Martin
25 October 2013, 10:07 PM
#33
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Gone for this gold leaf thermal adhesive tape as gold is the best heat reflectant.
The way I see it is your trying to stop your hot parts emitting heat and keep them insulated to prevent as much heat transfer as possible. So heat wrap helps with the headers and downpipe etc, heat shield or blanket on the turbo to retain heat and localise it (also read reports that the hotter the air is the quicker it flows when it comes to exhaust gas). You are then trying to keep your cold bits cold, so by insulating them and reflecting any heat away. So I have painted my IC and induction pipes in heat reflectant paint and then will wrap them in this gold leaf tape. Finally want a different reverse scoop as this one only has a small vent area....its also not really to my taste neither. Looking for one that will vent more hot air out of the engine compartment.
I also do a couple of other bits to try and help with heat, A high flow alloy radiator always a decent idea, I have put the thermal spacers on the header tank and I use water wetter which claims to reduce water temps!
All just my opinion and experience of course
Filter seems fine, Obviously avoid going through puddles but as its located on the off side should be ok. One thing I learnt years ago is ensue you put a drain hole at the lowest point of your air ducting.......just incase any water does get in (probably most likely when you wash the car!). I sat my ducting with a very slight upward track to the filter so any water would drain back away from it.
The way I see it is your trying to stop your hot parts emitting heat and keep them insulated to prevent as much heat transfer as possible. So heat wrap helps with the headers and downpipe etc, heat shield or blanket on the turbo to retain heat and localise it (also read reports that the hotter the air is the quicker it flows when it comes to exhaust gas). You are then trying to keep your cold bits cold, so by insulating them and reflecting any heat away. So I have painted my IC and induction pipes in heat reflectant paint and then will wrap them in this gold leaf tape. Finally want a different reverse scoop as this one only has a small vent area....its also not really to my taste neither. Looking for one that will vent more hot air out of the engine compartment.
I also do a couple of other bits to try and help with heat, A high flow alloy radiator always a decent idea, I have put the thermal spacers on the header tank and I use water wetter which claims to reduce water temps!
All just my opinion and experience of course
Filter seems fine, Obviously avoid going through puddles but as its located on the off side should be ok. One thing I learnt years ago is ensue you put a drain hole at the lowest point of your air ducting.......just incase any water does get in (probably most likely when you wash the car!). I sat my ducting with a very slight upward track to the filter so any water would drain back away from it.
Last edited by S555 MKR; 25 October 2013 at 10:11 PM.
26 October 2013, 08:04 AM
#34
Gone for this gold leaf thermal adhesive tape as gold is the best heat reflectant.
The way I see it is your trying to stop your hot parts emitting heat and keep them insulated to prevent as much heat transfer as possible. So heat wrap helps with the headers and downpipe etc, heat shield or blanket on the turbo to retain heat and localise it (also read reports that the hotter the air is the quicker it flows when it comes to exhaust gas). You are then trying to keep your cold bits cold, so by insulating them and reflecting any heat away. So I have painted my IC and induction pipes in heat reflectant paint and then will wrap them in this gold leaf tape. Finally want a different reverse scoop as this one only has a small vent area....its also not really to my taste neither. Looking for one that will vent more hot air out of the engine compartment.
I also do a couple of other bits to try and help with heat, A high flow alloy radiator always a decent idea, I have put the thermal spacers on the header tank and I use water wetter which claims to reduce water temps!
All just my opinion and experience of course
Filter seems fine, Obviously avoid going through puddles but as its located on the off side should be ok. One thing I learnt years ago is ensue you put a drain hole at the lowest point of your air ducting.......just incase any water does get in (probably most likely when you wash the car!). I sat my ducting with a very slight upward track to the filter so any water would drain back away from it.
The way I see it is your trying to stop your hot parts emitting heat and keep them insulated to prevent as much heat transfer as possible. So heat wrap helps with the headers and downpipe etc, heat shield or blanket on the turbo to retain heat and localise it (also read reports that the hotter the air is the quicker it flows when it comes to exhaust gas). You are then trying to keep your cold bits cold, so by insulating them and reflecting any heat away. So I have painted my IC and induction pipes in heat reflectant paint and then will wrap them in this gold leaf tape. Finally want a different reverse scoop as this one only has a small vent area....its also not really to my taste neither. Looking for one that will vent more hot air out of the engine compartment.
I also do a couple of other bits to try and help with heat, A high flow alloy radiator always a decent idea, I have put the thermal spacers on the header tank and I use water wetter which claims to reduce water temps!
All just my opinion and experience of course
Filter seems fine, Obviously avoid going through puddles but as its located on the off side should be ok. One thing I learnt years ago is ensue you put a drain hole at the lowest point of your air ducting.......just incase any water does get in (probably most likely when you wash the car!). I sat my ducting with a very slight upward track to the filter so any water would drain back away from it.
Martin
26 October 2013, 04:04 PM
#35
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I am hoping all my bits come early next week bud and then I can get them fit by the end of next week. That might be a little hopeful though 
If so can try and book something with Andy the week after? I will call him Monday see if we can get some dates he is free and see when fits in best with us?
If so can try and book something with Andy the week after? I will call him Monday see if we can get some dates he is free and see when fits in best with us?
26 October 2013, 04:11 PM
#36
I am hoping all my bits come early next week bud and then I can get them fit by the end of next week. That might be a little hopeful though
If so can try and book something with Andy the week after? I will call him Monday see if we can get some dates he is free and see when fits in best with us?
If so can try and book something with Andy the week after? I will call him Monday see if we can get some dates he is free and see when fits in best with us?
Martin
26 October 2013, 04:28 PM
#37
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Todays jobs.......
Made a start on removing the sound deadening.........what a cr*p job that is. Nightmare stuff to deal with but got one side done......
Gave up after that side, will do the other tomorrow but went on to trim the bumper behind my number plate which allows another 2 rows on the IC to get fed cold air. Then had to relocate the number plate up a little as it was blocking some flow. Abit fiddly and took my time so as not to make a mistake.
Also shortened the bunged hose off my IC pipe for the D/V. This is just blocked off but had an excessively long hose so shortened to reduce the IC pipework volume a little.
Also removed my O/S headlight as it had slightly misted in this weather after I have done the detango.....Dryed the unit out and went round it with sealant, and checked all the bulb rubber seats to make sure its tight.
I have kept all the used sound deadening as I am going to weight it when completed just to see if I have made any relevant gain from dropping it. already lost 26KG from removing the Sub and Amps few weeks back.
Made a start on removing the sound deadening.........what a cr*p job that is. Nightmare stuff to deal with but got one side done......
Gave up after that side, will do the other tomorrow but went on to trim the bumper behind my number plate which allows another 2 rows on the IC to get fed cold air. Then had to relocate the number plate up a little as it was blocking some flow. Abit fiddly and took my time so as not to make a mistake.
Also shortened the bunged hose off my IC pipe for the D/V. This is just blocked off but had an excessively long hose so shortened to reduce the IC pipework volume a little.
Also removed my O/S headlight as it had slightly misted in this weather after I have done the detango.....Dryed the unit out and went round it with sealant, and checked all the bulb rubber seats to make sure its tight.
I have kept all the used sound deadening as I am going to weight it when completed just to see if I have made any relevant gain from dropping it. already lost 26KG from removing the Sub and Amps few weeks back.
31 October 2013, 05:09 PM
#38
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Not managed to get out and finish the stripping of the sound deadening yet, but some bits have arrived, getting ready for next week 
Did manage to wash the car earlier and do a full levels check. Also fitted the flip switch covers over my A/L and MAP switches.
- 450 Walbro Fuel Pump
- Fuel pipe
- Sytec FPR
Did manage to wash the car earlier and do a full levels check. Also fitted the flip switch covers over my A/L and MAP switches.
08 November 2013, 06:28 PM
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Cheers pal
OK car back from CAMS PERFORMANCE today, thanks to Bri, Chris and Tim as ever
Work done was as follows:-
1. Supply and fit group N uprated engine mounts, gearbox mount / stabiliser bar.
2. Fit Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
3. fit & set up Sytec fuel pressure regulator
4. Fit Apexi Auto timer
5. Map tweak from Andy Carr
Not really had chance to give it a spin yet but will put that right tomorrow I am sure. Rolling Road to be booked for next week to see what I have
OK car back from CAMS PERFORMANCE today, thanks to Bri, Chris and Tim as ever
Work done was as follows:-
1. Supply and fit group N uprated engine mounts, gearbox mount / stabiliser bar.
2. Fit Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
3. fit & set up Sytec fuel pressure regulator
4. Fit Apexi Auto timer
5. Map tweak from Andy Carr
Not really had chance to give it a spin yet but will put that right tomorrow I am sure. Rolling Road to be booked for next week to see what I have
09 November 2013, 06:59 AM
#41
Cheers pal
OK car back from CAMS PERFORMANCE today, thanks to Bri, Chris and Tim as ever
Work done was as follows:-
1. Supply and fit group N uprated engine mounts, gearbox mount / stabiliser bar.
2. Fit Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
3. fit & set up Sytec fuel pressure regulator
4. Fit Apexi Auto timer
5. Map tweak from Andy Carr
Not really had chance to give it a spin yet but will put that right tomorrow I am sure. Rolling Road to be booked for next week to see what I have
OK car back from CAMS PERFORMANCE today, thanks to Bri, Chris and Tim as ever
Work done was as follows:-
1. Supply and fit group N uprated engine mounts, gearbox mount / stabiliser bar.
2. Fit Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
3. fit & set up Sytec fuel pressure regulator
4. Fit Apexi Auto timer
5. Map tweak from Andy Carr
Not really had chance to give it a spin yet but will put that right tomorrow I am sure. Rolling Road to be booked for next week to see what I have
Martin
12 November 2013, 05:52 PM
#42
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OK back from the rollers 
First of all must pay kudos to John Clarkson Autos in Westhoughton, it is the most methodical and deliberate service I have ever had at a rolling road. They take great care of the car then give loads of info following the run, right down to Air/Fuel ratios, boost and injector duty. Would highly recommend.
OK down to the figures, I am very pleased with the numbers, but also even more pleased to yet again get a comment about the health of the engine. The operator commented on there not being a sound from the engine with the cans on, something Andy Carr has mentioned on his mapping sessions on the car.
I am claiming 448 BHP and 404 Lb/Ft
Car even drew a crowd from the other mechanics, initially for the 115DB sound but then for the figures Pretty amazing that a 2L engine can produce these figures when you consider it.
First of all must pay kudos to John Clarkson Autos in Westhoughton, it is the most methodical and deliberate service I have ever had at a rolling road. They take great care of the car then give loads of info following the run, right down to Air/Fuel ratios, boost and injector duty. Would highly recommend.
OK down to the figures, I am very pleased with the numbers, but also even more pleased to yet again get a comment about the health of the engine. The operator commented on there not being a sound from the engine with the cans on
, something Andy Carr has mentioned on his mapping sessions on the car. I am claiming 448 BHP and 404 Lb/Ft
Car even drew a crowd from the other mechanics, initially for the 115DB sound but then for the figures
Pretty amazing that a 2L engine can produce these figures when you consider it.
14 December 2013, 10:39 AM
#45
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Car not been used for a couple of weeks as busy with a few things.
Yesterday I checked all levels, tyre pressures, etc. then swapped over my new scoop which is a little more to my taste and hopefully will vent the turbo heat better.
Also priced up painting the bonnet and front bumper. Only reason being is a few stone chips low down on the bumper ad the front of the bonnet, and also a little paint chip where the previous reverse scoop sat.
Then after warming the car thoroughly (as always) took her for a drink and abit of a run to clear her throat. (To the Techo violet M3 driver, sorry to totally embarrass you from the lights with your girlfriend in the car lol
)
Yesterday I checked all levels, tyre pressures, etc. then swapped over my new scoop which is a little more to my taste and hopefully will vent the turbo heat better.
Also priced up painting the bonnet and front bumper. Only reason being is a few stone chips low down on the bumper ad the front of the bonnet, and also a little paint chip where the previous reverse scoop sat.
Then after warming the car thoroughly (as always) took her for a drink and abit of a run to clear her throat. (To the Techo violet M3 driver, sorry to totally embarrass you from the lights with your girlfriend in the car lol
)
19 December 2013, 10:40 AM
#46
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Yesterday I removed the thermal spaces. Not really required in this weather and also I need to make a bottom bracket as the expansion tank is now tapping the bonnet since the engine mounts have been done!
Also gave it a carnauba wax for the winter.
Also gave it a carnauba wax for the winter.
19 December 2013, 01:58 PM
#48
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To be honest its running really really well lol! Can say now this is the best of the 6 Subaru's I have owned. Which makes the fact its for sale even more sad 
Look in the cars for sale section as she is up for grabs
Look in the cars for sale section as she is up for grabs
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