Zie Uglybuglin'....
27 February 2013, 09:17 PM
#32
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Couple more things in.....
Viper Perfomance induction silicone hose....quality looking thing...
Hardrace extended ball joints / bump steer kit...
Project Mu wheel nuts and Race X Proffesional tyre gauge, it did very well in the Autoexpress review, check it out it's very good kit for the money...
Will be fitting the bump steer kit tomorrow , will see the effect...
Viper Perfomance induction silicone hose....quality looking thing...
Hardrace extended ball joints / bump steer kit...
Project Mu wheel nuts and Race X Proffesional tyre gauge, it did very well in the Autoexpress review, check it out it's very good kit for the money...
Will be fitting the bump steer kit tomorrow , will see the effect...
27 February 2013, 09:25 PM
#33
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They did Rey, i loved the way they looked, but everything else was wrong for what i wanted... The new 17" SSR's that are now are perfect fit just need to powdercoat them in hyper black 
and the best part is the weight 5.5kg without a tyre , that makes a big impact on stopping etc.... Come over on sunday to the meet and show what you've got yourself recently 
Mantas
and the best part is the weight 5.5kg without a tyre , that makes a big impact on stopping etc.... Come over on sunday to the meet and show what you've got yourself recently Mantas
01 March 2013, 12:28 PM
#36
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Thanks Jura, the wheel nuts are not blue , its just the cap which is blue, the nuts themselves are in hyper black sort of colour, i think thir not even painted its just the metal colour....
01 March 2013, 12:59 PM
#37
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The tyre pressure gauge is from amazon ...BTW
Last edited by mantazini; 01 March 2013 at 01:01 PM.
05 March 2013, 10:45 PM
#44
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Got all the bits together now.... FB booked on thursday ....And so will be ready for Cadwell.... Jus need to study the track a bit more and off we go....
07 March 2013, 09:56 PM
#48
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Long day @ FB today.... life's not perfect so had a couple bugs on the day that poped out and had to be sorted before Cadwell.... The task we had was:
RCM induction kit + Viper Perfomance silicone hose
Change oil and filter
Tweek the map to the changes
Hardrace bump steer kit
Camber bolts
Geometry
Not everything went smooth as i had one thing occured last week..Had a bit of oil smell comming into the cabin, and the oil level was comming down not as usual as it was before... I know it goes a bit through the breethers if you don't have the oil catch can when driving it properly, but that wasn't the case. So we jacked it up and found the turbo oil return pipe gasket was leaking and oil was badly p***in down the turbo, downpie. The was no chance we could sort it out without taing the turbo out, so we had to do this... Lots of cofe with egg and bacon sandwiches and everything was off , resealed, cleaned , put back on... Unfortunately it took us most of the day and we had no time left to do the geometry. But we've done the important bit , so i'm happy.
Oil leake sorted
OIl+Filter changed
RCM kit fitted
Time to put the Hardrace stuff..........
, as the bug is 12 years old , and so were wishbones and ball joints/bolts etc... Rich took one off , but there was a metal bit that had to go on the new ball joints and it wasn't going anywhere untill we did this to it 
Eventualy it came off and fitted to the Hardrace kit...
Mapping gear on ...and off we went...The weather wasn't perfect but Rich still could manage to make it run smooth and we'll finish it off as the weather gets better a bit with the geometry at the same time...
Nearly forgot of the unexpected mod we put on today.... Bought it yesterday,collected and fitted today....
Cusco rear under brace
Genuine Subaru rear diffuser
Should stiffen up rear end a bit ....
And a dodgy hand of someones
RCM induction kit + Viper Perfomance silicone hose
Change oil and filter
Tweek the map to the changes
Hardrace bump steer kit
Camber bolts
Geometry
Not everything went smooth as i had one thing occured last week..Had a bit of oil smell comming into the cabin, and the oil level was comming down not as usual as it was before... I know it goes a bit through the breethers if you don't have the oil catch can when driving it properly, but that wasn't the case. So we jacked it up and found the turbo oil return pipe gasket was leaking and oil was badly p***in down the turbo, downpie. The was no chance we could sort it out without taing the turbo out, so we had to do this... Lots of cofe with egg and bacon sandwiches and everything was off , resealed, cleaned , put back on... Unfortunately it took us most of the day and we had no time left to do the geometry. But we've done the important bit , so i'm happy.
Oil leake sorted
OIl+Filter changed
RCM kit fitted
Time to put the Hardrace stuff..........
, as the bug is 12 years old , and so were wishbones and ball joints/bolts etc... Rich took one off , but there was a metal bit that had to go on the new ball joints and it wasn't going anywhere untill we did this to it Eventualy it came off and fitted to the Hardrace kit...
Mapping gear on ...and off we went...The weather wasn't perfect but Rich still could manage to make it run smooth and we'll finish it off as the weather gets better a bit with the geometry at the same time...
Nearly forgot of the unexpected mod we put on today.... Bought it yesterday,collected and fitted today....
Cusco rear under brace
Genuine Subaru rear diffuser
Should stiffen up rear end a bit ....
And a dodgy hand of someones
07 March 2013, 10:18 PM
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I remember trying to get those cones off my old ball joints - killer job without heat but I managed. Really coming together now, but why an induction kit without a FMIC? Surely a good panel filter would have avoided heat-soak
07 March 2013, 10:31 PM
#51
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There's always going to add something Martin , but the question is is it necessary? In the real world i would say no. But studying my car and experience i had with my other 2s i have an idea what gains i want from every mod i do to it. It has to be a balance, not all mods will work alone so you have to do the whole lot to make it worth doing it.... Also as a fast road/ ocasional track car it must not be to stiff and track orientated as it will lose it's purpouse as a road car and will be a pain to drive it on the public roads...
We had a good conversation with Ash today about the brakes
, sometimes less is more .... Alot of people start modding from the wrong side....
07 March 2013, 10:40 PM
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There's always going to add something Martin , but the question is is it necessary? In the real world i would say no. But studying my car and experience i had with my other 2s i have an idea what gains i want from every mod i do to it. It has to be a balance, not all mods will work alone so you have to do the whole lot to make it worth doing it.... Also as a fast road/ ocasional track car it must not be to stiff and track orientated as it will lose it's purpouse as a road car and will be a pain to drive it on the public roads...
We had a good conversation with Ash today about the brakes
, sometimes less is more .... Alot of people start modding from the wrong side....
07 March 2013, 11:06 PM
#53
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Having gone out with Alan on Sunday they are wise words - his classic was very skitish on the road because it is now so stiiff, but that is his track car so it will no doubt work great in that environment. Brakes are also an issue as he has some 6-pots up front but single pot sliders at the rear and the brake balance meant it was not right. The stiffness also meant that the ABS would kick in when the car became unsettled and weight was lost on one of the wheels - it's an art and hence why I have no ABS and currently still run springs and shock
AP's on Woodies car are great but thats another exercise to learn how to not step to hard on them , but as mentioned at least 2 pots are needed on the rear... Although i have my own opinion about them..... but i'll be able to comment on this after Cadwell..
07 March 2013, 11:12 PM
#54
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We were discusing the brake balance today... The front bite i have on mine is so hard that the transition of the weight to the front makes the rear abit unsetled... I did a dig and theres a valve udjusting mod, but thats very serious as if you'll get it wrong then youre foked basicaly... So what alot of people do is they get the better compound rear pads , that will make a car body to duck equaly down balancing the transition of the weight ...It's difficult to explain me this guys , sorry i hope you understand the point... No ABS is not a good thing necessary Jon, specialy when its more of a fast road car ... If you'll have to brake in a unexpected situation you'll have an issue , but track work is different storry. AP's on Woodies car are great but thats another exercise to learn how to not step to hard on them , but as mentioned at least 2 pots are needed on the rear... Although i have my own opinion about them..... but i'll be able to comment on this after Cadwell..
AP's on Woodies car are great but thats another exercise to learn how to not step to hard on them , but as mentioned at least 2 pots are needed on the rear... Although i have my own opinion about them..... but i'll be able to comment on this after Cadwell..
That is why I ultimately went for a bias valve and I will play with it but currently I have slightlt more bias towards to rear so the back will step out under braking
07 March 2013, 11:28 PM
#55
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ABS vs no-ABS is a preference mate - I learnt to drive without ABS and am more than happy to drive a road car without it as I was taught to pump the brake almost as a manual ABS. The balance is key and sticking with the factory brembo set-up will achieve a neutral balance assuming all is working well and front and rear brake/disc combos are matched but try and get rear brembo PF discs
That is why I ultimately went for a bias valve and I will play with it but currently I have slightlt more bias towards to rear so the back will step out under braking
That is why I ultimately went for a bias valve and I will play with it but currently I have slightlt more bias towards to rear so the back will step out under braking
, Bias valve its called then, nice, i ment that in my previous post, just dont make it to rear biased as it will spin you without even realising it... it need just a bit more bite... i would be interested in exploring this as well , keep us updated please...
08 March 2013, 10:00 AM
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I see, fair point bud. If youre used to it then fair enough, i'm not and had some side way situation in my mates TA car at brands , Bias valve its called then, nice, i ment that in my previous post, just dont make it to rear biased as it will spin you without even realising it... it need just a bit more bite... i would be interested in exploring this as well , keep us updated please...
, Bias valve its called then, nice, i ment that in my previous post, just dont make it to rear biased as it will spin you without even realising it... it need just a bit more bite... i would be interested in exploring this as well , keep us updated please...I'm happy that I now get a nice flat braking with it set as it is for road use, but equally can adjust the bias front to rear depending upon how straight or complex any tracks I run on are
08 March 2013, 10:52 PM
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Straight away. reduced tramlining , which was the main reason i was keen to do the mod. Driving much more relaxed now. Still cant comment on the faster driving as havent done geometry yet. But will probably will describe the changes after next weekends outing.