JonMc's Winter 2013 Re-work
16 June 2013, 10:41 PM
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I've got a VTA for now until I decide whether or not to make up the pipework for the OE one to fit, but TBH with the FMIC and induction kit it was just as noisy when I had no DV fitted
16 June 2013, 10:47 PM
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18 June 2013, 08:19 PM
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Joiner hose arrived for the DV - I may need to trim it a little
Also got the paint on the FMIC core - the satin black I had reacted with the etch primer which seemed to leech through, so I used some VHT paint I had which didn't go on as evenly so there's a couple of blemishes that I may have to flat back and polish, but I only wanted to make it a bit more stealthy so I'm not worried about perfection...
satin black
And then the VHT finish
Also got the paint on the FMIC core - the satin black I had reacted with the etch primer which seemed to leech through, so I used some VHT paint I had which didn't go on as evenly so there's a couple of blemishes that I may have to flat back and polish, but I only wanted to make it a bit more stealthy so I'm not worried about perfection...
satin black
And then the VHT finish
20 June 2013, 09:04 AM
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Cheers mate, hopefully have it all back together and running this weekend and then I'll give Alan a bell to use his mates garage for the MOT next weekend
Let me know if you're getting your headers done before the Uxbridge show - if mine gets through it's MOT I could be tempted to whip them off if your heading up that way
Let me know if you're getting your headers done before the Uxbridge show - if mine gets through it's MOT I could be tempted to whip them off if your heading up that way
21 June 2013, 05:50 PM
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Sorted the wiring for the horn with the relay tucked nicely behind the FMIC
Fitted the dump valve, it'll do until I swap the turbo then I can trim the inlet hose so I can get to the recirc entry on the pipe - I have an OE recirc waiting in the wings, but if I'm going carberry rom and therefore MAFless it may stay...
And finally the FMIC ready to go on
Fitted the dump valve, it'll do until I swap the turbo then I can trim the inlet hose so I can get to the recirc entry on the pipe - I have an OE recirc waiting in the wings, but if I'm going carberry rom and therefore MAFless it may stay...
And finally the FMIC ready to go on
21 June 2013, 07:45 PM
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And as the sun came out it would be rude not to fit it
And of course - it's alive
Battery relocation works fine, car started first time but ran like ****. The spring on the DV is too weak so it leaks air. I'll get onto forge and get a stronger spring but I've stuck with DV-less for now. Also threw a few fault codes - misfire cylinders 1,2 and 4, perhaps I should have cleaned the plugs first. Just need to wire the lights and fit the bumper and I can sort the MOT and then work out when to fit the turbo. I need to get some stuff off to Ryan first for painting
And of course - it's alive
Battery relocation works fine, car started first time but ran like ****. The spring on the DV is too weak so it leaks air. I'll get onto forge and get a stronger spring but I've stuck with DV-less for now. Also threw a few fault codes - misfire cylinders 1,2 and 4, perhaps I should have cleaned the plugs first. Just need to wire the lights and fit the bumper and I can sort the MOT and then work out when to fit the turbo. I need to get some stuff off to Ryan first for painting
22 June 2013, 07:26 PM
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So the car's back in one piece and should be going for it's MOT on Saturday...
Those more observant amongst you will have noticed the lack of splitter - well it was split
It'll go back on once it's had a coat of plastidip and gloss
Those more observant amongst you will have noticed the lack of splitter - well it was split
It'll go back on once it's had a coat of plastidip and gloss
22 June 2013, 07:45 PM
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So what next - some bits are going off to Ryan for painting, starting with the bonnet vent that I'll mesh up and cut in
An alternator that's going to be cleaned up and hopefully have the anodised pulley fitted...
Some rocker covers to go wrinkle black...
And an inlet to also go wrinkle black but only after I've ground away a few surplus lugs
And when that lots comes back they'll be getting fitted with this lot, oil catch can and some powder coated pipework
Inlet thermal spacers...
Some TGV deletes when I get the spare TGV elements back of a mate in work, and the piece de resistance....
VF34 and pinks
And if that's not going to be enough I've got some painted trailing arms and new bushed to fit...
A new clutch master cylinder hose...
And the rest of my brake stuff which includes replacement master cylinder and servo, new braided hoses...
And finally some new hoses for my bias valve
The last job after all of that is to paint my dip-stick handle and all of the under-bonnet caps with the red plastidip I have. In amongst all of that I need to smooth and paint where the battery tray used to be and do all the oils as well as replace a driveshaft seal or two on the rear diff
An alternator that's going to be cleaned up and hopefully have the anodised pulley fitted...
Some rocker covers to go wrinkle black...
And an inlet to also go wrinkle black but only after I've ground away a few surplus lugs
And when that lots comes back they'll be getting fitted with this lot, oil catch can and some powder coated pipework
Inlet thermal spacers...
Some TGV deletes when I get the spare TGV elements back of a mate in work, and the piece de resistance....
VF34 and pinks
And if that's not going to be enough I've got some painted trailing arms and new bushed to fit...
A new clutch master cylinder hose...
And the rest of my brake stuff which includes replacement master cylinder and servo, new braided hoses...
And finally some new hoses for my bias valve
The last job after all of that is to paint my dip-stick handle and all of the under-bonnet caps with the red plastidip I have. In amongst all of that I need to smooth and paint where the battery tray used to be and do all the oils as well as replace a driveshaft seal or two on the rear diff
23 June 2013, 07:53 PM
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The most disappointing part of the rebuild so far - I plastidipped the splitter and brimming with confidence having lots of other stuff I didn't expect to go like it did. I flatted it back smooth but didn't remove all of the old paint working on the basis that you don't need to do anything other than clean stuff before applying plastidip. However, the old paint around the bits I have taken through the layers reacted slightly with the plastidip
Well left it to go touch dry and fitted it, I was going to put a gloss coat on as the rest of my black trim is gloss black, but decided not to in case I peel it off in a few weeks and spend more time prepping it
Well left it to go touch dry and fitted it, I was going to put a gloss coat on as the rest of my black trim is gloss black, but decided not to in case I peel it off in a few weeks and spend more time prepping it
24 June 2013, 11:55 AM
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Jon,
Cars coming along great! Just a wee bit of advice on that bonnet vent, I fitted the same to mine, and it lets in a stack of water if sitting in the rain, intun kills the alternator and the sun bleaches the top rad hose, I would fit a try under it if you can make something up to fit.
Heres mine fitted a few yrs ago
Ricey
Cars coming along great! Just a wee bit of advice on that bonnet vent, I fitted the same to mine, and it lets in a stack of water if sitting in the rain, intun kills the alternator and the sun bleaches the top rad hose, I would fit a try under it if you can make something up to fit.
Heres mine fitted a few yrs ago
Ricey
24 June 2013, 12:40 PM
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Jon,
Cars coming along great! Just a wee bit of advice on that bonnet vent, I fitted the same to mine, and it lets in a stack of water if sitting in the rain, intun kills the alternator and the sun bleaches the top rad hose, I would fit a try under it if you can make something up to fit.
Heres mine fitted a few yrs ago
Ricey
Cars coming along great! Just a wee bit of advice on that bonnet vent, I fitted the same to mine, and it lets in a stack of water if sitting in the rain, intun kills the alternator and the sun bleaches the top rad hose, I would fit a try under it if you can make something up to fit.
Heres mine fitted a few yrs ago
Ricey
25 June 2013, 06:57 AM
#172
Looking forward to seeing this all done and mapped now Jon, really has come on leaps and bounds in the last few months!
Re HKS valves honestly I wouldn't bother and would stick with OEM.
There are so many cheap copies and even with the genuine ones I've seen a whole host of cars turn up at SRR with idle problems that always seem to magically disappear once the owner goes back to recirc or goes DV-less - tis why I kept mine - with the fmic you get more induction noise anyway.
Look forward to the next update!
Re HKS valves honestly I wouldn't bother and would stick with OEM.
There are so many cheap copies and even with the genuine ones I've seen a whole host of cars turn up at SRR with idle problems that always seem to magically disappear once the owner goes back to recirc or goes DV-less - tis why I kept mine - with the fmic you get more induction noise anyway
.Look forward to the next update!
25 June 2013, 07:18 AM
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Cheers mate, no remap yet, that's the next stage with new turbo and some other bits. I know what noises it makes with the FMIC as it's been running it for 3-years now. Th DV decision will come when I do the next stage as the Eclipse inlet hose isn't the best fit so the pipe for the recirc is hard against the inlet. Once I've got the inlet off and trim the hose I'll see if I can get enough clearance then I'll go back to the OE with some custom pipe work
29 June 2013, 09:36 AM
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Early start as I had other stuff to do today and mixed fortunes - MOT passed with an advisory for wear on the inner edges of the tyres. As I'm running 2 degrees of front camber and 1.75 degrees of rear camber I was aware of that but I might back it off a little at the next alignment session. One of the rose joints on my lateral arms has a little play in it too, so when I get the arms off for powder coating I'll probably get some new rose jointed ends
But then on the way back there was a smell of burning, so back to post 1...
Final bit if the oil temp gauge, using the cylinder 3 blank it can be fiddley but having removed the FMIC pipes it seems simple until I remove the adpator and out with it comes a load of threads stripped from the block I cleaned it all up and removed all of the swarfe (I hope) and refitted it with a load of PTFE tape but it leaked. Tried a new crush washer but that meant the adaptor didn't grab enough thread and it just span on the bits that had already stripped
Last ditch effort, triple bond, got the adaptor to fit and tighten (without the sender fitted) and then fitted the sender. The residual heat from the previous run that had leaked must have helped the triple bond set as once I fitted the sender and re-assembled the car it seems oil-tight. Car is SORN'd so I couldn't take it out for a run, but some good throttle blips and there was no more leak
When I strip out the manifold I think I'll seal it on with some chemical metal just to be sure
It's not fixed and after giving it a blast once it was all up to speed on my way back from the test centre it seems to have leaked again. Because of where it is I clearly can't drill it and put a helicoil in as the engine will fill with swarfe. So my cunning plan is a light skim of chemical metal on the brass bung - screw that in and then a seal of chemical metal to effectively make the bung and integral part of the block. If it wasn't in such an awkward place I'd even consider brazing it in place
If that doesn't work I'm at a loss and don't know were to go.
But now the car is running I can give it a clean and start on the niggly jobs in anticipation of the turbo fitting
But then on the way back there was a smell of burning, so back to post 1...
Final bit if the oil temp gauge, using the cylinder 3 blank it can be fiddley but having removed the FMIC pipes it seems simple until I remove the adpator and out with it comes a load of threads stripped from the block
I cleaned it all up and removed all of the swarfe (I hope) and refitted it with a load of PTFE tape but it leaked. Tried a new crush washer but that meant the adaptor didn't grab enough thread and it just span on the bits that had already stripped Last ditch effort, triple bond, got the adaptor to fit and tighten (without the sender fitted) and then fitted the sender. The residual heat from the previous run that had leaked must have helped the triple bond set as once I fitted the sender and re-assembled the car it seems oil-tight. Car is SORN'd so I couldn't take it out for a run, but some good throttle blips and there was no more leak When I strip out the manifold I think I'll seal it on with some chemical metal just to be sureIf that doesn't work I'm at a loss and don't know were to go.
But now the car is running I can give it a clean and start on the niggly jobs in anticipation of the turbo fitting
Last edited by JonMc; 29 June 2013 at 09:38 AM.
29 June 2013, 01:53 PM
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Stripped it all back down and found the top half of the thread is missing - when I last had it apart it was a dull winter afternoon so having some bright light was a clear advantage.
Cleaned it all out, removed an old washer that was stuck to the block which means the bung has a little more thread to grip on to. I put some metal epoxy on the top half of the thread bung and then wound it in as tight as I dared (holding the head of the ratchet and not getting full leverage from the of it). I then smoothed the epoxy that worked out and filled around the edges like so...
The sender can still be removed and changed as required should it fail or I change gauges - I just need to make sure any new sender has a 1/8 bsp thread
If this lot doesn't hold then I'll wait until I get my Christmas bonus and pick up an STI engine to drop in
Cleaned it all out, removed an old washer that was stuck to the block which means the bung has a little more thread to grip on to. I put some metal epoxy on the top half of the thread bung and then wound it in as tight as I dared (holding the head of the ratchet and not getting full leverage from the of it). I then smoothed the epoxy that worked out and filled around the edges like so...
The sender can still be removed and changed as required should it fail or I change gauges - I just need to make sure any new sender has a 1/8 bsp thread
If this lot doesn't hold then I'll wait until I get my Christmas bonus and pick up an STI engine to drop in
06 July 2013, 04:41 PM
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Another good day - big thanks to Forge UK who have helped me convert the DV I had from single piston to twin piston for less than £15 so that is now on and working. Not to loud either
Decided that the centres of my new rear discs had rusted far to quickly so they need some TLC
Whilst I had the satin black and etch primer out I decided to do the spacers too
All fitted up you can't tell there's spacers fitted
And it seemed rude not to clean the rear wheels while they were off, some Autobrite Very Cherry cleaner and brush later...
And then a couple of coats of Rimwax
Time for some darker wheels I think
Decided that the centres of my new rear discs had rusted far to quickly so they need some TLC
Whilst I had the satin black and etch primer out I decided to do the spacers too
All fitted up you can't tell there's spacers fitted
And it seemed rude not to clean the rear wheels while they were off, some Autobrite Very Cherry cleaner and brush later...
And then a couple of coats of Rimwax
Time for some darker wheels I think
06 July 2013, 08:23 PM
#179
