Brakes locking on
#31
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I would be thinking a blockage in the lines but the pistons all pushed back fine and pumped up again once I'd fitted the pads.
Would air bubbles cause a problem and would bleeding be a worthwhile next step
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Certainly worth a go mate,we have a VW polo in at the moment with a very very similar problem of O/S/F brake binding and we have almost eliminated everything except the ABS pump so you may need to be looking towards that having now eliminated the calipers and pads.
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Have you found anywhere that sells the proportioning valve for decent money - seen a few wilwood ones in the states for about £40 but they seem to be double that in the UK. Also any ideas whether or not any 2-way valve will do or is there any spec that I need to be looking for
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I can't find the 'how-to' I was looking at a couple of months back but my thought is something like this one
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p3...a4a3d4244b333d
I know you have to tee the fronts and rears together rather than have the four independant lines you have from the ABS pump, but iirc there's four lines in/out of the standard pump and only three into the one above
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p3...a4a3d4244b333d
I know you have to tee the fronts and rears together rather than have the four independant lines you have from the ABS pump, but iirc there's four lines in/out of the standard pump and only three into the one above
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The brake pdf posted above also contains the non abs circuits
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I'll read through and print the pages. I thought it was cracked as when I got home this morning the caliper temps were even across the calipers but coming in to work tonight the brakes over heated to the degree that the binding was causing a rumbling until they cooled down again. As it is only one caliper I am convinced it is either the ABS or the lines that are not allowing the pistons to release - I would suspect the propotioning valve if it was a pair of caliper as they onle have 2 channels coming out.
Time to break into the piggy-bank
Time to break into the piggy-bank
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Its worth changing the flexi hose as well. Ive had one colapse (not on a scooby) caused similar issues. The pressure from the pedal allowed fluid down to the caliper to apply the brakes, but wouldnt allow the fluid out so the brakes stayed slightly on. Then ofcourse that side got hot
#46
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Its worth changing the flexi hose as well. Ive had one colapse (not on a scooby) caused similar issues. The pressure from the pedal allowed fluid down to the caliper to apply the brakes, but wouldnt allow the fluid out so the brakes stayed slightly on. Then ofcourse that side got hot
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The way I read it is you tee the fronts and rears together and use the valve to set the front/rear balance in the absence of the ABS pump - seems quite simple. Off to print the noddy guide and read it properly, good old night shifts
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More to the ABS though as I would expect the fault to be more than one line if it was the master cylinder. It only seems to split into 4-channels at the ABS pump
#51
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I've PM'd one of the local members to help out with the delete - it's getting beyond my amatuer abilities and I don't have pipe-bending or flaring stuff. Found the Wilwood valve and some t-pieces on ebay for about £60 all in.
The way I read it is you tee the fronts and rears together and use the valve to set the front/rear balance in the absence of the ABS pump - seems quite simple. Off to print the noddy guide and read it properly, good old night shifts
The way I read it is you tee the fronts and rears together and use the valve to set the front/rear balance in the absence of the ABS pump - seems quite simple. Off to print the noddy guide and read it properly, good old night shifts
I am set on deleting mine now
#54
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3603921223...#ht_1083wt_906
and one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WILWOOD-26...ht_1480wt_1111
I read up on it last night and the job is simple:
Tee the 2 front lines together and connect to one output from the master cylinder.
Tee the 2 rear lines together and connect to the bias valve. Connect the bias valve to the second output from the master cylinder.
Adjust bias valve so the back brakes lock up first for serious tail out action
#55
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Here's the bits I've found - I'm making the assumption that my measurements are good and I have 10mm connections and 3/16" pipework so you need 2 of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3603921223...#ht_1083wt_906
and one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WILWOOD-26...ht_1480wt_1111
I read up on it last night and the job is simple:
Tee the 2 front lines together and connect to one output from the master cylinder.
Tee the 2 rear lines together and connect to the bias valve. Connect the bias valve to the second output from the master cylinder.
Adjust bias valve so the back brakes lock up first for serious tail out action
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3603921223...#ht_1083wt_906
and one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WILWOOD-26...ht_1480wt_1111
I read up on it last night and the job is simple:
Tee the 2 front lines together and connect to one output from the master cylinder.
Tee the 2 rear lines together and connect to the bias valve. Connect the bias valve to the second output from the master cylinder.
Adjust bias valve so the back brakes lock up first for serious tail out action
Good man Jon,that's another job on my list which is as long as my leg
#56
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Only one of the unions on my ABS pump is seized so I should have enough unions and pipe to recycle it - and no, the seized one is not the O/S/F either, that would have been too simple
#57
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Postman arrived today so I just need the garage to let me know when is good to run along so we can bend and flare all the pipes to suit
Need to do a steady couple more runs to work and back at the current rate though
I can't think of anything else as a block in the pipe would not allow the pistons to push out as well as retract, all the pistons are free and move when the pedal is pumped, and the only part that is channel specific is the ABS pump - hopefully I'll be happy again soon...
Also had these turn up from CRN today ready to replace my rather sorry looking rear OE discs
I can then get my Brembo HP sport rear pads fitted and the brakes should be all done
Need to do a steady couple more runs to work and back at the current rate though
I can't think of anything else as a block in the pipe would not allow the pistons to push out as well as retract, all the pistons are free and move when the pedal is pumped, and the only part that is channel specific is the ABS pump - hopefully I'll be happy again soon...
Also had these turn up from CRN today ready to replace my rather sorry looking rear OE discs
I can then get my Brembo HP sport rear pads fitted and the brakes should be all done
#59
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Can't afford to mate - even been toying with buying my own brake flaring kit and pipe bender but I still need to get on the ramps so I can drop all four wheels off and bleed the brakes