Just done first track day, a few questions!
#31
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sounds like you're going along the right lines with the brakes, I'd still be tempted to put different pads on like ds2500, they are a good all rounder and you'll be suprised how long they last, even with a few track days
Regarding oil, as long as the oil is a decent brand and 10/50 type level, and is fairly fresh you will be ok, have you got an oil temp gauge?
Regarding oil, as long as the oil is a decent brand and 10/50 type level, and is fairly fresh you will be ok, have you got an oil temp gauge?
#32
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The brakes is all down to a good combination set up, I.e grooved discs, bigger the better for cooling down quickley, and pads like ds2500, orange stuff, and a must dot 5.1 fluid.
Brake judder can also still happen and it's all down to the heat escaping from the grooves on the discs, wouldn't worry it's normal for it to do this on above combination, the brakes will still preform as they should, but a few cooling down periods is advisable for your engine.
Regards and good luck
Brake judder can also still happen and it's all down to the heat escaping from the grooves on the discs, wouldn't worry it's normal for it to do this on above combination, the brakes will still preform as they should, but a few cooling down periods is advisable for your engine.
Regards and good luck
#33
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OEM pads or Kevlar pads are not suitable for track use as they won't handle temps brakes will see on track.
The Subaru 4 Pot caliper is not great anyhow, to get the best out of them you will need a race compound such as EBC Orangestuff. Ideally you will upgrade the callipers to something better.
Fluid should not be brought on DOT 5.1 ratings alone, a DOT 4 fluid can be far better. Check the specs of each fluid.
Fitting inadequate pads will only result in running discs, boiling fluid and generally spoiling your fun on the day. It also costs more in the long run as you originally bought OEM pads, now Kevlar pads, both of which won't cut it and eventually you will buy a race compound anyhow.
The Subaru 4 Pot caliper is not great anyhow, to get the best out of them you will need a race compound such as EBC Orangestuff. Ideally you will upgrade the callipers to something better.
Fluid should not be brought on DOT 5.1 ratings alone, a DOT 4 fluid can be far better. Check the specs of each fluid.
Fitting inadequate pads will only result in running discs, boiling fluid and generally spoiling your fun on the day. It also costs more in the long run as you originally bought OEM pads, now Kevlar pads, both of which won't cut it and eventually you will buy a race compound anyhow.
#34
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OEM pads or Kevlar pads are not suitable for track use as they won't handle temps brakes will see on track.
The Subaru 4 Pot caliper is not great anyhow, to get the best out of them you will need a race compound such as EBC Orangestuff. Ideally you will upgrade the callipers to something better.
Fluid should not be brought on DOT 5.1 ratings alone, a DOT 4 fluid can be far better. Check the specs of each fluid.
Fitting inadequate pads will only result in running discs, boiling fluid and generally spoiling your fun on the day. It also costs more in the long run as you originally bought OEM pads, now Kevlar pads, both of which won't cut it and eventually you will buy a race compound anyhow.
The Subaru 4 Pot caliper is not great anyhow, to get the best out of them you will need a race compound such as EBC Orangestuff. Ideally you will upgrade the callipers to something better.
Fluid should not be brought on DOT 5.1 ratings alone, a DOT 4 fluid can be far better. Check the specs of each fluid.
Fitting inadequate pads will only result in running discs, boiling fluid and generally spoiling your fun on the day. It also costs more in the long run as you originally bought OEM pads, now Kevlar pads, both of which won't cut it and eventually you will buy a race compound anyhow.
So I've just done a second track evening (not a full day) on the same circuit. The work I've done since includes fitting Kevlar fast road pads all round, Goodridge braided brake lines all round, WRX 2 pot rear calipers with grooved discs on the back and completely flushing all the old brake fluid out and replacing it with Halfords High Performance racing fluid which is a Dot 5.1.
I knew the kevlar pads weren't quite going to be up to it but I'm pleasantly surprised, I'm still babying the brakes slightly but they still stood up to loads of abuse with no brake fade, judder or sinking pedal. That is mostly down to the fluid and braided lines I'd guess. The pads performed well too though the only downside is they've worn at a similar rate to the OEM ones, in an evening session (approx 2 hours) the front passenger side has worn half way.
Bearing in mind this circuit is really tough on brakes that's quite good going, there's two places where you're braking from 100mph plus down to about
20 for tight hairpins, and there's plenty of hard braking elsewhere on the track.
My dilemma now is do I keep on spending £50 on kevlar pads that will only do one track day? Or do I go for the Orange stuff at three times the price? Considering the price difference I need to be pretty confident the Orangestuff pads will do three track days at least before they become better value, so has anyone got enough experience with these on a classic to tell me what they wear like yet?
#36
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That's a point, plus I suppose there's less hassle of swapping pads about. This particular circuit wears the passenger pads a lot more than the drivers side because of the braking into right hand bends, so I'd have to swap them over halfway through the day to get the full use out of them!
#39
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This man speaks the truth!
So I've just done a second track evening (not a full day) on the same circuit. The work I've done since includes fitting Kevlar fast road pads all round, Goodridge braided brake lines all round, WRX 2 pot rear calipers with grooved discs on the back and completely flushing all the old brake fluid out and replacing it with Halfords High Performance racing fluid which is a Dot 5.1.
I knew the kevlar pads weren't quite going to be up to it but I'm pleasantly surprised, I'm still babying the brakes slightly but they still stood up to loads of abuse with no brake fade, judder or sinking pedal. That is mostly down to the fluid and braided lines I'd guess. The pads performed well too though the only downside is they've worn at a similar rate to the OEM ones, in an evening session (approx 2 hours) the front passenger side has worn half way.
Bearing in mind this circuit is really tough on brakes that's quite good going, there's two places where you're braking from 100mph plus down to about
20 for tight hairpins, and there's plenty of hard braking elsewhere on the track.
My dilemma now is do I keep on spending £50 on kevlar pads that will only do one track day? Or do I go for the Orange stuff at three times the price? Considering the price difference I need to be pretty confident the Orangestuff pads will do three track days at least before they become better value, so has anyone got enough experience with these on a classic to tell me what they wear like yet?
So I've just done a second track evening (not a full day) on the same circuit. The work I've done since includes fitting Kevlar fast road pads all round, Goodridge braided brake lines all round, WRX 2 pot rear calipers with grooved discs on the back and completely flushing all the old brake fluid out and replacing it with Halfords High Performance racing fluid which is a Dot 5.1.
I knew the kevlar pads weren't quite going to be up to it but I'm pleasantly surprised, I'm still babying the brakes slightly but they still stood up to loads of abuse with no brake fade, judder or sinking pedal. That is mostly down to the fluid and braided lines I'd guess. The pads performed well too though the only downside is they've worn at a similar rate to the OEM ones, in an evening session (approx 2 hours) the front passenger side has worn half way.
Bearing in mind this circuit is really tough on brakes that's quite good going, there's two places where you're braking from 100mph plus down to about
20 for tight hairpins, and there's plenty of hard braking elsewhere on the track.
My dilemma now is do I keep on spending £50 on kevlar pads that will only do one track day? Or do I go for the Orange stuff at three times the price? Considering the price difference I need to be pretty confident the Orangestuff pads will do three track days at least before they become better value, so has anyone got enough experience with these on a classic to tell me what they wear like yet?
Orangestuff will outlast the Kevlar pads by over 3 times IMHO so they work out better value in the long run. Also, you won't need to baby the brakes and will have an all round better track experience.
We have the new Orangestuff on the shelf at £148.26 with free delivery. Give us a shout if you decide to go with them
#40
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I wouldn't be worried about £50 for some brake pads it sound like you are well and truly hooked I brought a cheep classic 5 years ago just to do the same as you are the car now ows me £15000 and I have brought a 2door shell that I'm starting to buil and I have 360bhp bug so 2 tanks of fuel a set of pads and tyers isnt scratching the surface soon you will be selling off your kidney to by parts
Last edited by johnnybon; 24 May 2012 at 01:12 PM.
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