I know. Had to be done though!!!

 

Had the chance to weigh one of my alloys last night... 6.8KG!!!!!!!!!!!!! Totally ridiculous really. A similar "ultra lightweight" OZ alloy will run ~8 KG's for the same size. Proper motorsport alloys seem to be even heavier at 10-12KG for the same size. I guess it is a requirement for strength. Makes me wonder how on earth these are strong enough to cope with day to day life?

 

Just ordered redhead flossy ****
Should looking good with red hazard switch and red interior lights.
Thanks for idea

 

No worries. Just sharing what I have learnt from the USA forums! They have so much unchartered stuff!

Post a pic once its installed. I actually went for lathewerks in the end. The guy who runs it (Chris) was a HUGE help.

 

So on the commute this morning, I had my first actual issue with the car. Pulled up at traffic light and the revs dipped almost causing a stall. I will start fault finding when I get home, but the likely culprit is the idle control valve (common problem - just needs a clean). MAF comes to mind (having previously owned a classic) but apparently they are a lot hardier on newages so it probably wont be that. Also, I would have expected upward fluctuations as well as downward if it were MAF. Possibly cleaning the throttle body might also help (as it did one member I read up about earlier).

Worst case scenario we are talking possible faulty lambda sensor, TPS, cam/crankshaft sensor perhaps. Anything the ECU relies on to create a steady idle really.

Will report back when I know more.

 

I'm reading off my phone at present, but ate you not running maffless james?

The two obvious you mentioned, MAF and Stepper motor for the first investigation.

Again I can't recall the exact setup on this car, and as I'm on my phone I'll hazard a guess your have no dump/blow off valve? The mafs don't like vibration if this is the case? Apologies if I'm wrong.

Rob

Ps in at KWIK FIT waiting for the air con recharge !

 

There is a sensor downstream of the throttle body, roughly in the area a MAF would be (though it looks nothing like a MAF im used to as per my old classic) but probably does measure MAF via cooling effect (or so it looks)

It is running a turbosmart(?) dump valve which I stripped down and serviced a couple of weeks ago.

I actually did quite a bit of tinkering with the car this evening and the problem has gone away - but not fully conclusive really because the problem only happened once anyway. I will document with pictures tomorrow morning

 

the strength is in the way its made James...I'll weigh one of my Advan RGs tomorrow and see how it compares

 

cam and crank were changed james when i had it, basically not long before i sold it, so i hope it wouldnt be those 2....hope its just a clean of one of the others.....

 

Thats good to know, thanks. I was just brainstorming all possibilities that might affect the idle so I had a game plan.

Update: Last nights tinkering looks to have been a success. Commuting to work today, no signs of an uneven idle whatsoever. Absolutely rock solid. First I double checked all vacuum lines in and around the BOV as that was a possibility; I had recently stripped that all down. That was fine though. I also toyed with the spring rate of the BOV to see what that was all about. Still didn't notice much of a difference... perhaps when it is looser it seems to "exhale" a bit when i usually wouldn't have otherwise heard it.

Next was cleaning the throttle body and idle control valve. Here it the hole it left in the bay:


And before the TB was cleaned (it wasn't that dirty really, but a clean cant hurt)


Then after it was cleaned (note I only cleaned the internals - I don't enter show and shine!)


Then the clean IACV. This really was dirty inside, so of all the actions performed last night, this would have been the one to fix it:


Next the MAF (or other). This was as clean as can be, so only a light spraying with alcohol was required. This is as you would expect for something downstream of the air filter. If it were dirty, I would have a whole new set of jobs on the cards:


Finally, while i was at it, I thought I would just check my ECU connections. Having owned older cars previously, I have seen some dodgy connectors before. This, however, was like new (as you would expect from an internally mounted ECU really):




This also had the effect of resetting the ECU so it can "re-learn" the idle (or so I read).

Lastly - to anyone else who may be cleaning their IACV - definitely buy a replacement rubber gasket for it. They expand due to temperature and vacuum, so it makes life REALLY difficult trying to get it back in. I could have saved an hour of my life by just buying a new one (had I known)

End result: The idle is absolutely rock solid from cold start right through to max engine temp on the commute. Now the fun can begin..... My wheel and alloys are ready for fitting!!!

 

Surely it cant be lighter?!!!

 

Triple post: Here is another taster of whats to come:

 

The steering wheel looks nice and chunky.

 

Over the bank holiday weekend one of my tasks was to wax my new alloys. Here they are before the treatment:


During:


And after:








All thanks to this stuff here:


Overall I am very impressed with the results (as you can see for yourselves above) and this stuff is pretty cheap so I recommend it highly!

The current tyres are 225 and I have a set of 215's so might as well make use of them. Here are the 2 as a comparison:




(Yes I know, old tyres are at the marker, good job I have new ones!)

So the moment you have all been waiting for (excuse the dirty car) Before:



After:


A marked improvement over the standard alloys, which may be resigned to winter wheels from now on.

 

My second task over the bank holiday weekend was to fit the new wheel. Here it is side by side with the old wheel:


And a better size comparison:


Installation of the wheel itself was straightfoward. Here is the naked interior (with full history of airfreshners!):


So fitting the wheel itself - no problem. Obviously the 04 bag doesn't fit the 08+ wheel as standard, so some minor modification to the plastic back cover was required. Small amounts of plastic were removed from the 3 corners, most notably seen here. (the modification to this cover is mainly internal and hidden from sight, hence it has been left "as cut by snips"):


Here is a picture of the wheel offered up to the backing cover:


And the extent of the plastic removal required from within:


This then allowed the airbag to slip straight back in, as the new wheel retains the exact same mounting locations as the original wheel:


The standard 04 airbag cover does not suit the wheel at all, but it will allow me to drive the car in safety, until I source a 10 plate cover with controls (which I will wire to my headunit) to look like this (pictured earlier on in thread):


I haven't driven the car much since, but it offers a GREAT improvement. The smaller diameter feels much better than the larger original wheel for a start, then the contours of the wheel are perfectly crafted for driving. It is a great deal heavier than the original wheel too, giving the steering an even heavier input coupled with the diameter. Not TOO heavy by any means. If anything, I would rather the wheel be even smaller. But overall, an incredible upgrade.

I have had a few PM's now regarding the wheel. You can buy them from www.avojdm.com starting at 52k yen with 6.2k yen shipping to UK. Expect to pay the appropriate import duties too.

 

Last night I decided I would fit this - Yuasa 005:


What should have been a 5 minute job turned into well over an hour, as I decided to replace the mount with stainless studding and an aluminium bracket out of bits I had lying around:


And then fitted (taken in the dark):




Result!

In other news, I have ordered a set of Carbone Lorraine RC6 pads (4066 fitment). I have previous experience with the RC5+ and the RC6 is said to have a much greater bite, so they should be excellent. The price you pay is a squeal under light braking. I can live with that I am also to buy discs, but not sure if I will be going OEM, brembo, tarox... etc. I can't justify 2 piece rotors... I don't think?

 

As promised....these are Advan RGs, I'm going to be using these as track wheels and keeping the Direzzas for the road.

 

0.8KG, pretty light

If i were you i would use the direzzas as track wheels as they are lighter and dont stand up to road abuse as well as a heavier wheel would. Tracks dont have potholes!

 

And guess what? This is now going up for sale again. This time it actually has to sell, so the highest "low blow" (unfortunately for me) will get the car.

I will probably remove the wheel first, as that cost as much as the car! lol. That and my headunit which will be replaced with the one that came with the car. Now taking viewings!

£8,000.

 

I'm a bit of a thug on track with kerbs but that is a good point. Cr@p you have to sell it, I hope you get the asking price James

 

Sold Hopefully new owner keeps me posted on how it goes!

 

Will do

She drove back spot on, and pulls like a jet to match lol

Will keep updated as i go along with her, will probably steal some of your thunder and continue with the thread you started lol

Cheers james