2004 JDM 500bhp Target
26 February 2012, 05:48 PM
#32
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26 February 2012, 08:02 PM
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Apologies I beat you to it. It certainly goes well! Well, apart from the minor tweaks which I will be doing shortly
08 March 2012, 07:26 PM
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Right now for the fun stuff! Saturday started early as you can see:
Bum in the air while its still dark! First things first, remove that silly tow eye. Adds weight and looks out of place on a road car. Not to mention it could be stolen in a second:
First came the subframe outrigger bushes. Really corroded down there, so it has all been treated to a thick coating of waxoyl. Disgusting, but will prevent further corrosion. Here are the new bushes (this year scooby doesnt require the thin one):
Here are the bolts that came out of the mount. Surprisingly perfect!
and here they are semi-installed:
and fully installed drivers side:
passengers side:
You wouldn't know it, but I attacked those brackets with an angle grinder with wire brush attachment to get rid of the loose corrosion!
Next came the rear arb and drop links. I sourced the drops from a chap on here (thanks). They are new:
The worst part of installing these was removing the existing drops! Before I figured out that there was a tiny flat round the back of the drop, I tried many methods of attack. First, I liberally applied this great stuff, plus gas:
I bought plus gas having read an article on force required to undo a seized nut/bolt with various penetrating fluids. Plus gas was about 5 times as good as WD-40 so I was sold. Also, the guys at apex also recommended it! Thanks again. This didn't help me here though, the droplink nuts would just rotate and rotate. Duh!
So next I decided this was ridiculous, how could they possibly ship a part that cant be undone? I had looked round the back for a hex face to grip with a spanner, but all i felt was a round face. No good for a spanner! So I was forced to file away at the thread to give myself a lip to attach a spanner onto:
This was hugely time consuming and my arms ached under the car in that position, but it had to be done. So with a nice flat on both sides of the thread, I tried using a 7mm spanner as well as the 14mm spanner on the nut, to remove the nut from the drop link. No luck. The 7mm flats although perfect in their idea and filing, were not strong enough and just rounded. Fuming at this point I decided I would just cut the entire lot off with a grinder, so I took the wheel off. I then found the semi circular / flat section for a spanner to grip onto! Jackpot, no grinder needed. Once I had found that out, dismantling was straightforward. Off came the old arb:
And re-installing the new 24mm adjustable arb, set on softest so equivalent to a 22mm arb:
Nicely aligned, a good fit:
My mate dave assisting with the 2 man job:
Bum in the air while its still dark! First things first, remove that silly tow eye. Adds weight and looks out of place on a road car. Not to mention it could be stolen in a second:
First came the subframe outrigger bushes. Really corroded down there, so it has all been treated to a thick coating of waxoyl. Disgusting, but will prevent further corrosion. Here are the new bushes (this year scooby doesnt require the thin one):
Here are the bolts that came out of the mount. Surprisingly perfect!
and here they are semi-installed:
and fully installed drivers side:
passengers side:
You wouldn't know it, but I attacked those brackets with an angle grinder with wire brush attachment to get rid of the loose corrosion!
Next came the rear arb and drop links. I sourced the drops from a chap on here (thanks). They are new:
The worst part of installing these was removing the existing drops! Before I figured out that there was a tiny flat round the back of the drop, I tried many methods of attack. First, I liberally applied this great stuff, plus gas:
I bought plus gas having read an article on force required to undo a seized nut/bolt with various penetrating fluids. Plus gas was about 5 times as good as WD-40 so I was sold. Also, the guys at apex also recommended it! Thanks again. This didn't help me here though, the droplink nuts would just rotate and rotate. Duh!
So next I decided this was ridiculous, how could they possibly ship a part that cant be undone? I had looked round the back for a hex face to grip with a spanner, but all i felt was a round face. No good for a spanner! So I was forced to file away at the thread to give myself a lip to attach a spanner onto:
This was hugely time consuming and my arms ached under the car in that position, but it had to be done. So with a nice flat on both sides of the thread, I tried using a 7mm spanner as well as the 14mm spanner on the nut, to remove the nut from the drop link. No luck. The 7mm flats although perfect in their idea and filing, were not strong enough and just rounded. Fuming at this point I decided I would just cut the entire lot off with a grinder, so I took the wheel off. I then found the semi circular / flat section for a spanner to grip onto! Jackpot, no grinder needed. Once I had found that out, dismantling was straightforward. Off came the old arb:
And re-installing the new 24mm adjustable arb, set on softest so equivalent to a 22mm arb:
Nicely aligned, a good fit:
My mate dave assisting with the 2 man job:
08 March 2012, 07:38 PM
#37
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Next on the to-do list for Saturday was to fit Kartboy's shifter bushings, front and rear. Here they are, the rear bush is black:
And here you can see the stock front bush with the solid bushes:
And here you can see the stock rear bush, weak looking thing!
Removal was straightforward, but reassembly was a PITA! The rear bush bolt holes are about 1mm too widely spaced, so it took about 45 mins of taking it in turns to try and get a bite on the bolt, fighting hand fatigue. The solid front bush was an easy installation as it is 2 piece:
And here is the rear mount installed:
On disassembly of the front, to access the shifter bushings, I had to remove the front crossmember bushings. Luckily I had ordered some solid replacements because the standard ones are really flimsy:
TurnInConcepts provided me with these:
They claim that they are not pink, but I don't see it
Reinstalling these was easy, then the very last bolt for the front crossmember was being torqued, but would not torque up! It had stripped the thread on the fine pitch bolt. Disaster, and it was 7.00pm by this point! Here I can be seen working into the dark, with nothing but a dim torch to assist:
I had to drill out the captive nut as it was nackered, then slide in an M10 bolt with a nut beside the existing captive nut. I actually prefer my high tensile bolts to the fine pitch standard bolts with small heads, they are far stronger and can torqued up really high if required! I may actually drill out the other nut so that they both match. Anyway, that concluded Saturday. Didn't get as much done as I had hoped, but there is always this weekend! I am probably a third of the way through fitting my bushes. Still to do: Front ALK, reverse swingarm mount for even more caster, solid rear trailing arm bushes, solid rear diff bushes, solid subframe bolts. Those last 3 things were actually the entire reason I started this escapade; to eliminate the klunking rearend. The klunk isnt that bad really - not as bad as some other scoobs i've driven, but enough for me to sort the entire lot out. I actually bought the rear klunk killer pack from turninconcepts, the "Unabomber's Sexy Rearend" they call it. They do have a sense of humour over there!
And here you can see the stock front bush with the solid bushes:
And here you can see the stock rear bush, weak looking thing!
Removal was straightforward, but reassembly was a PITA! The rear bush bolt holes are about 1mm too widely spaced, so it took about 45 mins of taking it in turns to try and get a bite on the bolt, fighting hand fatigue. The solid front bush was an easy installation as it is 2 piece:
And here is the rear mount installed:
On disassembly of the front, to access the shifter bushings, I had to remove the front crossmember bushings. Luckily I had ordered some solid replacements because the standard ones are really flimsy:
TurnInConcepts provided me with these:
They claim that they are not pink, but I don't see it
Reinstalling these was easy, then the very last bolt for the front crossmember was being torqued, but would not torque up! It had stripped the thread on the fine pitch bolt. Disaster, and it was 7.00pm by this point! Here I can be seen working into the dark, with nothing but a dim torch to assist:
I had to drill out the captive nut as it was nackered, then slide in an M10 bolt with a nut beside the existing captive nut. I actually prefer my high tensile bolts to the fine pitch standard bolts with small heads, they are far stronger and can torqued up really high if required! I may actually drill out the other nut so that they both match. Anyway, that concluded Saturday. Didn't get as much done as I had hoped, but there is always this weekend! I am probably a third of the way through fitting my bushes. Still to do: Front ALK, reverse swingarm mount for even more caster, solid rear trailing arm bushes, solid rear diff bushes, solid subframe bolts. Those last 3 things were actually the entire reason I started this escapade; to eliminate the klunking rearend. The klunk isnt that bad really - not as bad as some other scoobs i've driven, but enough for me to sort the entire lot out. I actually bought the rear klunk killer pack from turninconcepts, the "Unabomber's Sexy Rearend" they call it. They do have a sense of humour over there!
08 March 2012, 07:46 PM
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As for what I think of the mods so far, the rear subframe outrigger bushings have improved the klunking about 25%. A noticeable improvement but no real difference other than that. The rear arb, I haven't had a chance to test or anything as I have just been commuting all week, but it again feels no different so far to the old 19mm jobbie. As for the shifter bushings, wow! what an improvement. Such a cheap mod, £40 all in, or something, with a huge improvement over standard. Don't get me wrong, the JDM STI is rock solid as it is, so imagine how shocked I was when I felt the improvement! Highly recommended mod for anyone out there who likes a hard, solid shift. Feels a lot more positive driving around now. Finally onto the front crossmember bushings. Even though I still have the stock gearbox mount (directly above the xmember bushes) the poly bushes have made a big difference. Coupled with the shifter bushes, they aid in the positive shift feeling. You really know that you have changed gear now! Also, this part has increased NVH. I would say the whine of the gearbox is now 50% louder than it was before. A welcome change, I do like the sound of a good gearbox. Not to everyones tastes, I wouldn't imagine, though. This part may have also played a part in helping the rear klunking. Anything drivetrain related bushing wise could be the culprit. I wont stop until the klunking stops though! If this weekend's plans don't kill the problem, then I will get a set of gp N engine mounts and gearbox mount. Coupled with the solid pitch stop already fitted, there will be no movement whatsoever. If there is, I have bigger problems. DCCD transfers worn or driveshaft UJ wear, or something to that nature. I hope not!
11 March 2012, 05:30 PM
#39
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Well today progress was extremely slow, wanted to get 3 things done but only got one! Rear diff bushes. Here is the diff bracket off, with old bushes out.
Pretty straightforward to undo, undo the outer 2 nuts from the bolts and then double nut the inner 2 bolts, remove the studs and then you have access to the bushes! New bushes:
And a simple press fit into the diff mount:
And here they are installed:
I next attempted to replace the rear trailing arm front bushes (the largest ones). Access is appalling on the nut side so only a spanner will fit. A long spanner did not provide enough leverage to undo the nut, so I used a 2 foot extension. Instead of freeing the nut, this broke my not so cheap spanner! Oh well. This job requires air tools (at least, for this car it does) so I will book it in at the local, hopefully to get them fitted this weekend. I will also get them to fit my ALK as that is nice and easy when the car is in the air. Leaves me with just the rear subframe bolts to go and then to see if the rear klunk has disappeared for good!
The rear diff bushes have improved things another 25% I would say. Just another 50% to go
I did manage to polish out where the STI badge used to be, so thats one plus of today:
Pretty straightforward to undo, undo the outer 2 nuts from the bolts and then double nut the inner 2 bolts, remove the studs and then you have access to the bushes! New bushes:
And a simple press fit into the diff mount:
And here they are installed:
I next attempted to replace the rear trailing arm front bushes (the largest ones). Access is appalling on the nut side so only a spanner will fit. A long spanner did not provide enough leverage to undo the nut, so I used a 2 foot extension. Instead of freeing the nut, this broke my not so cheap spanner! Oh well. This job requires air tools (at least, for this car it does) so I will book it in at the local, hopefully to get them fitted this weekend. I will also get them to fit my ALK as that is nice and easy when the car is in the air. Leaves me with just the rear subframe bolts to go and then to see if the rear klunk has disappeared for good!
The rear diff bushes have improved things another 25% I would say. Just another 50% to go
I did manage to polish out where the STI badge used to be, so thats one plus of today:
24 March 2012, 06:36 PM
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What a productive week it has been! Last week I booked my car in at Ignition Motorsport in Newbury for fitting of ALK and front trailing arm bushes. I cannot undo the bolts required, hence booking the work in. In my infinite wisdom I bought the rear trailing arm bushes, so have ordered front bushes from TiC which should be here early next week, ready fot fitment of all trailing arm bushes! Thats going to be good. Poly bushes everywhere right now!!!
We did manage to get the ALK installed though. Here is the old mount which has now been binned:
Here is the new part installed (I got the perrin ones):
Spacers between the U brace and chassis:
Wondering, does the U brace actually do anything for rigidity for the car? It seemed a bit flimsy when I had it off!
Then greasing with one of my favorite tools, the grease gun!
While I was under the car, I noticed that the outrigger mounts had become slightly distorted where a previous owner must have jacked it up on this point. The metal was quite close to the crossmember itself, so could have rubbed under hard cornering. Here they are now, bent nicely out of the way of other metal parts!
Much to some of your dismay, and partially my own, I fitted my sub (which I have had in the past 4 cars, we go wayyyyy back ;p I bought a 4 gauge kit and am running separate amps for the speakers too, so LOTS of wiring!!! Luckily these Japanese cars have convenient trunking down the side of the car. I installed power down one and signals down the other:
Then finally wiring it all up and the headunit side:
It took me a good 2 hours to setup the system to my liking (though I haven't actually finished with the sub yet, still a bit more tweaking to get it perfect with the limited acoustic ability of the impreza chassis) Not to mention, with the poly bushes, coilovers and large turbo, its not like this car is quite to begin with! Entertainment for the traffic jams though, it is a DD afterall.
Lastly I dug out my old alloys from the type R to see if they would clear my calipers. They do!!! Jackpot:
And here is a shot of the alloy on car:
They are Direzza alloys, made in Japan, extremely EXTREMELY lightweight. They dont look bad either! I will wear out my current tyres on the standard alloys before I get these fitted though. Thats about it for now, I will get the poly trailing arm bushes installed shortly and report back as to how they feel!
As for the ALK, what an improvement that made. I also did the "free castor mod" which entails rotating the swingarm pivot pin 180 degrees (it is an offset mount) to gain appx 0.5* castor. This combined with the 0.5* castor from the ALK has given a nice increase on a car running large castor as it is, with the adjustable castor BC's. On full lock, there is slight scrub of the plastic inner arch due to the high castor, but not really of much concern.
I am fond of the poly bush within the ALK too. Certainly stiffens the front end up a lot. A lot a lot. Fitting an ALK should not be done by someone seeking comfort, no way! I do like the touch that perrin have added with the grease nipple though. Overlooked in modern cars which is a shame as they serve their purpose beautifully, rather than stripping the part down to grease it when it inevitably starts to creak / squeal.
We did manage to get the ALK installed though. Here is the old mount which has now been binned:
Here is the new part installed (I got the perrin ones):
Spacers between the U brace and chassis:
Wondering, does the U brace actually do anything for rigidity for the car? It seemed a bit flimsy when I had it off!
Then greasing with one of my favorite tools, the grease gun!
While I was under the car, I noticed that the outrigger mounts had become slightly distorted where a previous owner must have jacked it up on this point. The metal was quite close to the crossmember itself, so could have rubbed under hard cornering. Here they are now, bent nicely out of the way of other metal parts!
Much to some of your dismay, and partially my own, I fitted my sub (which I have had in the past 4 cars, we go wayyyyy back ;p I bought a 4 gauge kit and am running separate amps for the speakers too, so LOTS of wiring!!! Luckily these Japanese cars have convenient trunking down the side of the car. I installed power down one and signals down the other:
Then finally wiring it all up and the headunit side:
It took me a good 2 hours to setup the system to my liking (though I haven't actually finished with the sub yet, still a bit more tweaking to get it perfect with the limited acoustic ability of the impreza chassis) Not to mention, with the poly bushes, coilovers and large turbo, its not like this car is quite to begin with! Entertainment for the traffic jams though, it is a DD afterall.
Lastly I dug out my old alloys from the type R to see if they would clear my calipers. They do!!! Jackpot:
And here is a shot of the alloy on car:
They are Direzza alloys, made in Japan, extremely EXTREMELY lightweight. They dont look bad either! I will wear out my current tyres on the standard alloys before I get these fitted though. Thats about it for now, I will get the poly trailing arm bushes installed shortly and report back as to how they feel!
As for the ALK, what an improvement that made. I also did the "free castor mod" which entails rotating the swingarm pivot pin 180 degrees (it is an offset mount) to gain appx 0.5* castor. This combined with the 0.5* castor from the ALK has given a nice increase on a car running large castor as it is, with the adjustable castor BC's. On full lock, there is slight scrub of the plastic inner arch due to the high castor, but not really of much concern.
I am fond of the poly bush within the ALK too. Certainly stiffens the front end up a lot. A lot a lot. Fitting an ALK should not be done by someone seeking comfort, no way! I do like the touch that perrin have added with the grease nipple though. Overlooked in modern cars which is a shame as they serve their purpose beautifully, rather than stripping the part down to grease it when it inevitably starts to creak / squeal.
24 March 2012, 06:39 PM
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Some small achievements today include:
Added a small foam strip below the ignition switch to stop my keyring bashing and annoying the hell out of me!
Secured the remote rear coilover adjusters down as they tended to flail on hard cornering, again causing an annoying tapping sound!
Fitted a separate earth for my headunit to remove noise on the ground plain. Often overlooked when audio is installed. With an electronics background, it would be a crime for me to ignore this
Added a small foam strip below the ignition switch to stop my keyring bashing and annoying the hell out of me!
Secured the remote rear coilover adjusters down as they tended to flail on hard cornering, again causing an annoying tapping sound!
Fitted a separate earth for my headunit to remove noise on the ground plain. Often overlooked when audio is installed. With an electronics background, it would be a crime for me to ignore this
24 March 2012, 09:00 PM
#43
Sometimes is better use specialist
25 March 2012, 11:40 AM
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Yes I realise, this year JDM model ships with the same 4 droplinks all round. I spoke to whiteline and they told me to use the same all round...
They whiteline replacements are exactly the same size as the ones I replaced. Thanks for the concern though, always good to have a second opinion
They whiteline replacements are exactly the same size as the ones I replaced. Thanks for the concern though, always good to have a second opinion
25 March 2012, 02:39 PM
#47
Yes I realise, this year JDM model ships with the same 4 droplinks all round. I spoke to whiteline and they told me to use the same all round...
They whiteline replacements are exactly the same size as the ones I replaced. Thanks for the concern though, always good to have a second opinion
They whiteline replacements are exactly the same size as the ones I replaced. Thanks for the concern though, always good to have a second opinion
they should use whiteline instead
26 March 2012, 07:16 PM
#48
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Yes I realise, this year JDM model ships with the same 4 droplinks all round. I spoke to whiteline and they told me to use the same all round...
They whiteline replacements are exactly the same size as the ones I replaced. Thanks for the concern though, always good to have a second opinion
They whiteline replacements are exactly the same size as the ones I replaced. Thanks for the concern though, always good to have a second opinion
I only mentioned after checking the Whiteline catalogue.
01 April 2012, 09:11 AM
#49
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Yesterday I decided that my goal would be to raise the ride height of my suspension. I allowed plenty of time for things to go wrong, so budgeted that I would get just both the rears done.
My problem is that the coilover adjusters have seized. They need removing off the car and replacing. I have ordered the replacements, so no problem!
First things first, removing the coilover:
And here it is off the car:
Much easier when writing to leave it at that and pretend everything is fine, but no - that would not be the truth!
Firstly those 2 lower bolts! I thought that as I am only removing existing coilovers and not the original struts that they would just slip off but that would be too easy. Plenty of plus gas, huge breaker bars and LOTS of heat later, we managed to remove them. Just the 2, 1 side of the car still. This area is the most nightmareish that I have ever encountered on any car, ever:
How they were SO stiff to remove, I do not know. There was not much sign of corrosion, so they hadn't welded onto one another. They must have been installed with 1,000ft/lbs
Next. those damn adjusters were absolutely corroded onto the coilover where they had been dry fit. After plenty of plus gas and lots of different methods of gripping the adjuster without breaking it, it did not come off. There is literally no way of freeing these parts without damaging the coilover body. Literally no way.
Time to admit defeat, the best part of Saturday later, accomplishing nothing whatsoever.
So that the entire day wasn't wasted, I stiffened the rear 24mm arb from soft to medium as I still feel slight understeer, so this might correct that a bit. I next installed the final 2 bushes that I have left to fit (for now...) the final 2 front trans crossmember support bushes (i only managed to install 2 last time)
These have increased NVH more than I thought, I can now hear the drop gears of the gearbox very faintly. It reminds me of my old classic mini which is a good thing! Feels again a bit stiffer up front so well worth doing. Looking at the underside of the car like this makes me want to fit a GT spec crossmember... Should I???
My problem is that the coilover adjusters have seized. They need removing off the car and replacing. I have ordered the replacements, so no problem!
First things first, removing the coilover:
And here it is off the car:
Much easier when writing to leave it at that and pretend everything is fine, but no - that would not be the truth!
Firstly those 2 lower bolts! I thought that as I am only removing existing coilovers and not the original struts that they would just slip off but that would be too easy. Plenty of plus gas, huge breaker bars and LOTS of heat later, we managed to remove them. Just the 2, 1 side of the car still. This area is the most nightmareish that I have ever encountered on any car, ever:
How they were SO stiff to remove, I do not know. There was not much sign of corrosion, so they hadn't welded onto one another. They must have been installed with 1,000ft/lbs
Next. those damn adjusters were absolutely corroded onto the coilover where they had been dry fit. After plenty of plus gas and lots of different methods of gripping the adjuster without breaking it, it did not come off. There is literally no way of freeing these parts without damaging the coilover body. Literally no way.
Time to admit defeat, the best part of Saturday later, accomplishing nothing whatsoever.
So that the entire day wasn't wasted, I stiffened the rear 24mm arb from soft to medium as I still feel slight understeer, so this might correct that a bit. I next installed the final 2 bushes that I have left to fit (for now...) the final 2 front trans crossmember support bushes (i only managed to install 2 last time)
These have increased NVH more than I thought, I can now hear the drop gears of the gearbox very faintly. It reminds me of my old classic mini which is a good thing! Feels again a bit stiffer up front so well worth doing. Looking at the underside of the car like this makes me want to fit a GT spec crossmember... Should I???
Last edited by JamesWalker; 31 May 2012 at 01:24 PM.
01 April 2012, 10:01 AM
#50
I would be considering buying some replacement coilovers and getting those pesky ones refurbished by the professionals. Your braver than me adding some heat eeeekk!
So what is the intention after all this for the car, will it see track? It would be nice to take full advantage of your hard efforts.
Rob
So what is the intention after all this for the car, will it see track? It would be nice to take full advantage of your hard efforts.
Rob
02 April 2012, 06:53 PM
#51
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I think for now I will just leave the coilovers as they are. It is not TOO low, 350mm hub to arch which still gives me a roll center above the ground, just
It will indeed see track! Snetterton 300 will be my first in this car. I have done a fair few in other cars and have found snetterton to be very well balanced and fun, plus lots of room for when it goes wrong
The efforts right now are really just to remove all of the small flaws with the car to make driving it a joy. I like al ot of feedback from the car, hence poly everything. It is booked for a 4 wheel alignment in 2 weeks - make best use of my new parts
Oddly I have just been playing with my damper settings and rear OS was 11 clicks from firmest, rear NS was 10. One has come loose Both have been set to 10.
Fronts were both on 12 from firmest, so slightly softer than the rears. i softened this from 12 to 15 as an attempt to give me more front end grip with relation to the rear, when pushing hard. Softer front rebound should give more exit oversteer, or rather i should say less exit understeer. I have all the toys now, just need to get that balance fine tuned!
Also an exciting thing will be happening once my current tyres have worn out, my alloys will be fit!!!
It will indeed see track! Snetterton 300 will be my first in this car. I have done a fair few in other cars and have found snetterton to be very well balanced and fun, plus lots of room for when it goes wrong
The efforts right now are really just to remove all of the small flaws with the car to make driving it a joy. I like al ot of feedback from the car, hence poly everything. It is booked for a 4 wheel alignment in 2 weeks - make best use of my new parts
Oddly I have just been playing with my damper settings and rear OS was 11 clicks from firmest, rear NS was 10. One has come loose
Both have been set to 10. Fronts were both on 12 from firmest, so slightly softer than the rears. i softened this from 12 to 15 as an attempt to give me more front end grip with relation to the rear, when pushing hard. Softer front rebound should give more exit oversteer, or rather i should say less exit understeer. I have all the toys now, just need to get that balance fine tuned!
Also an exciting thing will be happening once my current tyres have worn out, my alloys will be fit!!!
05 April 2012, 08:31 AM
#52
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Well, last night I thought I would attempt the steering rack bush installation. Read a couple of posts on it about what difficulties I might come across, thought nothing of it so tried to get it done in an evening after work (bearing in mind this is my only car atm). I am NEVER EVER installing those things again, unless I have access to a pit or a car lift. The most swear words possible came out from me trying to force that steering rack back into place around the newer tighter slightly larger bushings.
As it stands, the car is still on the driveway without the steering rack attached. I had to scrounge a car to get to work today! The steering rack mounts were the least of my problems when I tried reattaching the rack to the steering column. Because the spline has a larger slit at one side, it can only be installed in 1 orientation. Thats a good thing in terms of straight steering, but its an absolute pig to get back on when access under the car is minimal. I need some rinoramps or other. Stupid low car!!!
I will hopefully get the rack up into place tonight. The problem I have is that when I put the brackets back on, the bolts aren't long enough to bite because the bushings are slightly larger than they should be (well not really, but while installing they seem to be) so I will try to find a longer bolt to pull the mount up with, remove it then refit the smaller bolt. Easy... I hope I bet my efforts wont even have been worth it, either! We shall see...
As it stands, the car is still on the driveway without the steering rack attached. I had to scrounge a car to get to work today! The steering rack mounts were the least of my problems when I tried reattaching the rack to the steering column. Because the spline has a larger slit at one side, it can only be installed in 1 orientation. Thats a good thing in terms of straight steering, but its an absolute pig to get back on when access under the car is minimal. I need some rinoramps or other. Stupid low car!!!
I will hopefully get the rack up into place tonight. The problem I have is that when I put the brackets back on, the bolts aren't long enough to bite because the bushings are slightly larger than they should be (well not really, but while installing they seem to be) so I will try to find a longer bolt to pull the mount up with, remove it then refit the smaller bolt. Easy... I hope
I bet my efforts wont even have been worth it, either! We shall see...
05 April 2012, 07:59 PM
#53
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Well I got them installed in the end. Not a huge difference, but definitely a firmer steering wheel / feel to the steering. I like! Have some pictures:
Old mounts:
Mounts removed:
You can tell I got annoyed with it - there are no pictures of the finished goods
Old mounts:
Mounts removed:
You can tell I got annoyed with it - there are no pictures of the finished goods
17 April 2012, 06:33 PM
#54
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Well i finally received my trailing arm bushes, front and rear. Made by TiC, 95 grade poly. Ultra firm! I couldn't undo the trailing arm bolts so I took it to ignition motorsport to fit. Here they are:
They really have made a big difference. The rear of the car is totally rock solid now. Far more feedback given. Of course, the ride is also a lot harsher. Almost as harsh as when the ALK was fitted. Should make a bit of difference for dynamic geometry though - the old rubber bushes are rather large so the more rubber removed the better!
Off topic, I am proud of this butterfly I took a picture of:
They really have made a big difference. The rear of the car is totally rock solid now. Far more feedback given. Of course, the ride is also a lot harsher. Almost as harsh as when the ALK was fitted. Should make a bit of difference for dynamic geometry though - the old rubber bushes are rather large so the more rubber removed the better!
Off topic, I am proud of this butterfly I took a picture of:
17 April 2012, 07:47 PM
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Just softened the front coilovers by 3 clicks and the rears by 4, to compensate for the new solid bushes crashing over bumps. We shall see how that affects things tomorrow
18 April 2012, 06:57 PM
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Further to a post the other day I made regarding fender braces, I purchased a pair off a member here; gpssti4. Thanks for a smooth transaction by the way! They are used, but have been sandblasted as can be seen here:
I have this evening primed them ready for their top coat (silver) later tonight. I haven't actually seen a pair like this before, a bit of googling reveals they seem to be of Japanese origin. Made by JSpeed Sujigane. That would explain why I have not heard of them before!
I will install them at the weekend weather depending.
I have this evening primed them ready for their top coat (silver) later tonight. I haven't actually seen a pair like this before, a bit of googling reveals they seem to be of Japanese origin. Made by JSpeed Sujigane. That would explain why I have not heard of them before!
I will install them at the weekend weather depending.
24 May 2012, 01:24 PM
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Well, this is now for sale. I knew I would have to sell it, but I didn't think it would be quite so soon! I have found a house which suits me so will be buying that, therefore cannot afford to continue running an impreza. I was hoping to at least have it a year before passing ownership onto someone else, otherwise I wouldn't have spent so much money on it recently!
Nevermind. 2 previous owners are members on here and will probably vouch for the car. I have spent far too much on it since only January and am asking £9,500. Located for viewing in Reading.
I will post a proper for sale advert tonight.
Nevermind. 2 previous owners are members on here and will probably vouch for the car. I have spent far too much on it since only January and am asking £9,500. Located for viewing in Reading.
I will post a proper for sale advert tonight.
24 May 2012, 07:05 PM
#59
yep i will certainly vouch for it. i had it and sold it to big fud....sorry to see it going james. i was liking my old girl in you hands. it certainly doesnt want for anything..really nothing to be done.....
good luck with the sale.....
good luck with the sale.....
Last edited by scatty; 24 May 2012 at 07:33 PM.