Rebuild or Scrap
11 January 2012, 11:55 PM
#31
Don't get it rebuilt, either find a frugal used engine and sell the car, or just scrap it
Use the money from the scrapping/selling and add 3k that you would have spent anyway, then buy yourself a car (STi) that hasn't been owned by a pikey mod bellend.
Last edited by 53; 11 January 2012 at 11:56 PM.
11 January 2012, 11:55 PM
#32
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If I'd need a gearbox too, that looks like it might be the case. There are some bargains on here at the moment for STI's. 5K for a nice newage STI making it a hard thing to choose between spending out on a rebuild or just getting something like that and breaking this. Only thing is that the engine has already been stripped so already around 500 in labour charges 
My dad had an STI and although my WRX is very nice, it's not the same beast so I'm loathed to spend too much on it...
Just going around in circles really but will report back after I speak to David at API tomorrow. Need to sleep on it I think.
My dad had an STI and although my WRX is very nice, it's not the same beast so I'm loathed to spend too much on it...
Just going around in circles really but will report back after I speak to David at API tomorrow. Need to sleep on it I think.
12 January 2012, 12:01 AM
#33
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Classic cheap and nasty 'performance' mods with catastrophic fail results.
Don't get it rebuilt, either find a frugal used engine and sell the car, or just scrap it Use the money from the scrapping/selling and add 3k that you would have spent anyway, then buy yourself a car (STi) that hasn't been owned by a pikey mod bellend.
Don't get it rebuilt, either find a frugal used engine and sell the car, or just scrap it
Use the money from the scrapping/selling and add 3k that you would have spent anyway, then buy yourself a car (STi) that hasn't been owned by a pikey mod bellend. 
@ pikey
12 January 2012, 12:12 AM
#34
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Classic cheap and nasty 'performance' mods with catastrophic fail results.
Don't get it rebuilt, either find a frugal used engine and sell the car, or just scrap it Use the money from the scrapping/selling and add 3k that you would have spent anyway, then buy yourself a car (STi) that hasn't been owned by a pikey mod bellend.
Don't get it rebuilt, either find a frugal used engine and sell the car, or just scrap it
Use the money from the scrapping/selling and add 3k that you would have spent anyway, then buy yourself a car (STi) that hasn't been owned by a pikey mod bellend. Nah, I appreciate that. No real performance parts to speak of. Just a different exhaust system, 4 decent alloys with good tread on tyres and K & N air filter.
12 January 2012, 05:46 AM
#35
If you spent 3 k on a engine rebuilt the car will still be only worth 2600 -3k maximum when you sell it as facts are its a 10 year old bugeye which hasn't the cult status that a ten year old classic has and worth less and less at STi which are more desirable are fetching 3-3500 with petrol costs and insurance rising these cars that do 25 mpg are not popular anymore and it says something when classics And old bug eyes are worth more in parts rather then selling them complete
I would cut your losses and save up and get a 5k STi in the future personally
I would cut your losses and save up and get a 5k STi in the future personally
12 January 2012, 12:25 PM
#37
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Well after a lot of thought, I think I'm going to go ahead with the rebuild. I've considered a lot of options:
Replace engine with another - Already spent lots in labour having the engine stripped and there's not much difference between part costs and a suitable low mileage engine.
Replace engine, sell car and buy STi - Unfortunately as I'm only 23 the insurance would be 2000 instead of 1275 which is too much of a jump, there's also the risk that despite it being an STi with stronger internals than a WRX, it may have problems so isn't really within my budget.
Scrap/Break - Would gain around £1000 from this but have to spend a good few thousand on a new car and that would be pure chance whether it happens to be reliable or not. Out of the 4 cars I've purchased so far, 0% have been without major issues so I don't like my chances of finding a gem for 3000ish.
Rebuild - Expensive and the same cost as a new car however assuming the gearbox is ok, the car should have plenty of life in it and a forged engine will have some value if I decided to break the car in the future. They also give me a 12 month guarantee.
One thing I'm unsure of is whether it's worth going the whole hog with the rebuild and getting forged rods as well as pistons. Both the rods and crank are ok but would a completely forged engine add enough value to the car to warrant spending the extra few hundred quid?
Unfortunately, I can't add a different turbo to the car as my insurance won't cover it so I'll be limited to about 280bhp after the fresh remap.
Replace engine with another - Already spent lots in labour having the engine stripped and there's not much difference between part costs and a suitable low mileage engine.
Replace engine, sell car and buy STi - Unfortunately as I'm only 23 the insurance would be 2000 instead of 1275 which is too much of a jump, there's also the risk that despite it being an STi with stronger internals than a WRX, it may have problems so isn't really within my budget.
Scrap/Break - Would gain around £1000 from this but have to spend a good few thousand on a new car and that would be pure chance whether it happens to be reliable or not. Out of the 4 cars I've purchased so far, 0% have been without major issues so I don't like my chances of finding a gem for 3000ish.
Rebuild - Expensive and the same cost as a new car however assuming the gearbox is ok, the car should have plenty of life in it and a forged engine will have some value if I decided to break the car in the future. They also give me a 12 month guarantee.
One thing I'm unsure of is whether it's worth going the whole hog with the rebuild and getting forged rods as well as pistons. Both the rods and crank are ok but would a completely forged engine add enough value to the car to warrant spending the extra few hundred quid?
Unfortunately, I can't add a different turbo to the car as my insurance won't cover it so I'll be limited to about 280bhp after the fresh remap.
Last edited by PREZAMI; 12 January 2012 at 12:27 PM.
12 January 2012, 01:40 PM
#38
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Well after a lot of thought, I think I'm going to go ahead with the rebuild. I've considered a lot of options:
Replace engine with another - Already spent lots in labour having the engine stripped and there's not much difference between part costs and a suitable low mileage engine.
Replace engine, sell car and buy STi - Unfortunately as I'm only 23 the insurance would be 2000 instead of 1275 which is too much of a jump, there's also the risk that despite it being an STi with stronger internals than a WRX, it may have problems so isn't really within my budget.
Scrap/Break - Would gain around £1000 from this but have to spend a good few thousand on a new car and that would be pure chance whether it happens to be reliable or not. Out of the 4 cars I've purchased so far, 0% have been without major issues so I don't like my chances of finding a gem for 3000ish.
Rebuild - Expensive and the same cost as a new car however assuming the gearbox is ok, the car should have plenty of life in it and a forged engine will have some value if I decided to break the car in the future. They also give me a 12 month guarantee.
One thing I'm unsure of is whether it's worth going the whole hog with the rebuild and getting forged rods as well as pistons. Both the rods and crank are ok but would a completely forged engine add enough value to the car to warrant spending the extra few hundred quid?
Unfortunately, I can't add a different turbo to the car as my insurance won't cover it so I'll be limited to about 280bhp after the fresh remap.
Replace engine with another - Already spent lots in labour having the engine stripped and there's not much difference between part costs and a suitable low mileage engine.
Replace engine, sell car and buy STi - Unfortunately as I'm only 23 the insurance would be 2000 instead of 1275 which is too much of a jump, there's also the risk that despite it being an STi with stronger internals than a WRX, it may have problems so isn't really within my budget.
Scrap/Break - Would gain around £1000 from this but have to spend a good few thousand on a new car and that would be pure chance whether it happens to be reliable or not. Out of the 4 cars I've purchased so far, 0% have been without major issues so I don't like my chances of finding a gem for 3000ish.
Rebuild - Expensive and the same cost as a new car however assuming the gearbox is ok, the car should have plenty of life in it and a forged engine will have some value if I decided to break the car in the future. They also give me a 12 month guarantee.
One thing I'm unsure of is whether it's worth going the whole hog with the rebuild and getting forged rods as well as pistons. Both the rods and crank are ok but would a completely forged engine add enough value to the car to warrant spending the extra few hundred quid?
Unfortunately, I can't add a different turbo to the car as my insurance won't cover it so I'll be limited to about 280bhp after the fresh remap.
12 January 2012, 01:55 PM
#39
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If you spent 3 k on a engine rebuilt the car will still be only worth 2600 -3k maximum when you sell it as facts are its a 10 year old bugeye which hasn't the cult status that a ten year old classic has and worth less and less at STi which are more desirable are fetching 3-3500 with petrol costs and insurance rising these cars that do 25 mpg are not popular anymore and it says something when classics And old bug eyes are worth more in parts rather then selling them complete
I would cut your losses and save up and get a 5k STi in the future personally
I would cut your losses and save up and get a 5k STi in the future personally
If your going to keep the engine at standard bhp i wouldn't bother replacing the rods if there ok. I would think forged pistons are cheaper than buying standard cast pistons from subaru and there better so thats a no brainer. I would also fit 11mm head studs while the engine is apart. As you will have to run the car in you may aswell replace main and big end bearings too.
I'll probably get these (think they're the ones) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...2#ht_720wt_952
I'll check out the head studs, thanks.
12 January 2012, 01:59 PM
#40
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If rebuilding, forget about adding any value to the car, over a std working car of that age.
Remember that if you buy a 2nd hand car, you cannot be certain about the state of the engine etc etc, and as these cars tend to be abused or poorly modified, you could be buying more aggro. So if your car is in good general condition, and you plan to keep it 2 or 3 years, its worth doing the engine properly so you know its going to be solid - so new head studs, good head gaskets/bearings + probably std pistons/rods would be OK for 280BHP (I did on my WRX Classic at 280BHP) + a GOOD map - and its job done til you sell it.
Remember that if you buy a 2nd hand car, you cannot be certain about the state of the engine etc etc, and as these cars tend to be abused or poorly modified, you could be buying more aggro. So if your car is in good general condition, and you plan to keep it 2 or 3 years, its worth doing the engine properly so you know its going to be solid - so new head studs, good head gaskets/bearings + probably std pistons/rods would be OK for 280BHP (I did on my WRX Classic at 280BHP) + a GOOD map - and its job done til you sell it.
12 January 2012, 02:23 PM
#41
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If rebuilding, forget about adding any value to the car, over a std working car of that age.
Remember that if you buy a 2nd hand car, you cannot be certain about the state of the engine etc etc, and as these cars tend to be abused or poorly modified, you could be buying more aggro. So if your car is in good general condition, and you plan to keep it 2 or 3 years, its worth doing the engine properly so you know its going to be solid - so new head studs, good head gaskets/bearings + probably std pistons/rods would be OK for 280BHP (I did on my WRX Classic at 280BHP) + a GOOD map - and its job done til you sell it.
Remember that if you buy a 2nd hand car, you cannot be certain about the state of the engine etc etc, and as these cars tend to be abused or poorly modified, you could be buying more aggro. So if your car is in good general condition, and you plan to keep it 2 or 3 years, its worth doing the engine properly so you know its going to be solid - so new head studs, good head gaskets/bearings + probably std pistons/rods would be OK for 280BHP (I did on my WRX Classic at 280BHP) + a GOOD map - and its job done til you sell it.
12 January 2012, 10:30 PM
#42
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If rebuilding, forget about adding any value to the car, over a std working car of that age.
Remember that if you buy a 2nd hand car, you cannot be certain about the state of the engine etc etc, and as these cars tend to be abused or poorly modified, you could be buying more aggro. So if your car is in good general condition, and you plan to keep it 2 or 3 years, its worth doing the engine properly so you know its going to be solid - so new head studs, good head gaskets/bearings + probably std pistons/rods would be OK for 280BHP (I did on my WRX Classic at 280BHP) + a GOOD map - and its job done til you sell it.
Remember that if you buy a 2nd hand car, you cannot be certain about the state of the engine etc etc, and as these cars tend to be abused or poorly modified, you could be buying more aggro. So if your car is in good general condition, and you plan to keep it 2 or 3 years, its worth doing the engine properly so you know its going to be solid - so new head studs, good head gaskets/bearings + probably std pistons/rods would be OK for 280BHP (I did on my WRX Classic at 280BHP) + a GOOD map - and its job done til you sell it.
I agree with you. I think he will find forged after market pistons are cheaper to buy than subaru standard items though so if these need replacing then then he may aswell get forged. Same for bearing, he may aswell fit acl mains and mahle big ends but id let the engine builder supply anf fit these rather than buy off ebay.
.
13 January 2012, 10:56 PM
#44
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13 January 2012, 11:09 PM
#45
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standard rods are crap, i wouldnt say they will go at 280 though, i would have thought they would take 350ish but for resale value and tuning at a later date its worth getting rods, later sti rods ie v8/9 afaik are good upto 450-500hp and i have been told better than some forged rods. i got a set of low mileage ones for mine for £80
oh and you will add value if its a decent forged build btw whatever others say
oh and you will add value if its a decent forged build btw whatever others say
14 January 2012, 08:50 PM
#47
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hi lads new on here , had same problem with my uk2000 ,spent all my cash on a car i always wanted , then engine blew three weeks later ! no money left so cheapest option for me was low mileage second hand! lucky for me still going strong 1 yr later , but i say lucky!!
all the best to all subaru owners
all the best to all subaru owners
14 January 2012, 10:34 PM
#48
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Welcome, I haven't been here long but learnt a lot already, great forum. Certainly frustrating, hopefully you got 'lucky' and the new engine will last a while.
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