Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I would if i had got the block apart but I've literally not had 5 minutes to spare this week. Hopefully I'll get an hour before work this afternoon when the mrs takes the kids to her Nan's, then there's tomorrow my only day off in 14 days, but my eldest comes over Sunday's and of course its Super Sunday!!!!.
I also need to remove the piston's before i can split the block i believe, which will require a large Allen socket which i'll also have to invest in.

Shopping list - I'm not 100% definate at the moment. Someone's selling a 2.1 complete engine on here at the moment but i'm hoping they'll end up breaking it as they have RCM water/oil pump's but i'm unsure about re-using s/h piston's.

In my head so far this is what i'd like....

ACL bearings
Billet 79mm crank or EJ257 depending on prices (machining inc.)
Manley or Crower I-Beam rods.
Cosworth pistons/rebore.
V3 heads. (Or go mad - port, new valves/springs/cams on original heads)
ARP 11mm head bolts (or complete overkill 14mm conversion, depending on cost).
Cosworth HG's.
Subaru rebuild gasket kit.
Replacement rebuild bolt kit.
Run-in map.

I'm sure i've missed something. Window shopping is enjoyable at the moment, although buying parts from the US would seem the logical thing to do but its avoiding import tax!. Of course with this "stage one" done it'd be time to look at Clutch/Gearbox/brakes depending on what the block produces.

Stage 2 would include a 2dr chassis but i'll probably be a grandad by then at this rate!.

I forgot to add between now and summer I'm flooring out the loft for storage, redecorating kitchen including fitting a breakfast bar, re-doing living room which will include smashing out concrete/tile fireplace, New sofa's and new larger TV, then there's rotivating/re-seeding back garden

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

And this is what i mean about window shopping, just enquired about this which is about 50 miles from me.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Imp...item2c623959fe

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Very small update again. I found the bolts lurking in the channels and managed to crack them open and then snipped them tight again to hold the block together. However one is so covered in crap and rust the 12mm socket just spins on it. I've checked the socket on the other bolt heads and there isn't any play, yet on this one there's loads.
An advert for using coolant i think, not just water.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Ha ha!!! I am man, you are just a bolt, i will defeat you all in the end!!!!

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

your follwoing in the footsteps of many people on here, myself, catalyuna 172, silietn running, all got threads.

i found the building great fun, the reading, getting stuck in. im a fitter and it was a great learning curve.

the issues start once its started and things go wrong, then u gotta full it apart.

best advice i can give now is check everything, and i mean everything.

i had a warped block which killed my new crank.

then got a new block and crank. managed to bore wash it.

new pistons later someone cut my water pipes, nice people about.

make sure all tolerances are checked leave nothing to chance, or it will be ok.

if that make sense. plasti gauge crank and bearings.

and defo have a good read on the peoples diy threads. learn from our mistakes

im currently putting mine back together, adding more bits.

few 2.1 engines where at my mapping day, jgm was surprised when my little 2l out performed a few with very similar spec

although their potential is much bigger than mine.

good luck with the build, if there is any help you need pm me, il try to give good advice.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Thanks a lot mje_wrx
As you can see i'm taking my time. Money/kids/work means this will be a long-haul job in possibly 2-stages and I'm in no rush. The learning is the main thing, and i'll be honest many of the parts i'm pulling out i had no idea what they were for, and after reading the manual I'm getting it in my head piece by piece. When i get a bit more time i'll list tools required on the original post so that anyone contemplating the same know's what to look out for.

The build is another chapter. I'm boarding out my loft so my store room would end up as my lab lol.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

im in same boat as you, one daughter, mortage, bills, eplieptic dog, £££ medication, 3 cats lol. etc

il be watching thread

wait till you first start it. i was running up and down lane at 1am jumping for joy lol

GezP

iTrader: (23)

well done for having a go yourself mate. in regards to your shopping list, try and buy all the parts from one place. You will get a much better discount. I can recommend James @ amber performance/JW racing

Ciaran

iTrader: (16)

I bought myself a set of those after struggling for hours trying to get a header bolt out and then my mate came with a set of those and had it of in 2 minutes

Good luck with the build

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Lol, i cannot wait for that day, but i'd imagine its a year or so off from now. You could help by splitting your block

Thanks i'll try them, hope they have what i'm after


I was reccomended them but was unsure if the sockt would actually fit into the channel of the block. I managed to get a set for £30 delivered, well chuffed.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I've had a look on both of these sites and can't seem to find much individually, let alone finding a collective .

I'm actually tempted by laterals 2.1 kit.....but i'm not overly keen on Wiseco piston's or the con-rod's.
http://lateralperformance.co.uk/prod...offer_________

GezP

iTrader: (23)

Lateral stuff is good mate and mark (the owner) is a top guy. Even if you don't buy his pistons etc he's really good for all your gaskets and other bits.*

Amber and jw's websites aren't the best and half the stuff is missing. It's worth just giving James a call.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I'll be ringing them for the crank i think as once the piston's/rods are removed from that package the crank on its own should be relatively cheap, although i could get a billet one from the US for the same sort of price which eliminates the need for machining.

First stage though after pulling it apart will be piston's/rebore which may be earlier than i expected due to an un-expected suprise at work....

MartynJ

Enginetuner 2.1 stroker kit is another option
Can be specced with Cosworth or Mahle pistons and Cosworth rods if you want the best !

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I'm open to offers
I'm thinking along the lines of block rebore, thrust adjusted, all round check of block, EJ257 crank and ACL bearings, and possibly Cossie rod's and piston's. I'd also need someone to skim the V3 heads once i have them....

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I finally found half an hour this evening just before it was too dark.

Found some thick goopy oil! hmmm the plot literally thickens...



Then its a case of cracking these screws to get to the gudgeon pin circlip, very poor idea to use cross=head screws i'd have thought counter-sunk allen screws would have been a better option. But hey ho...




The circlips were easily removed with some needle nosed pliers.

Then i found 2 ******* torquey bolts hiding away!


Now... The manual tells you to use "special tool" to remove gudgeon pin. But to do this that particular cylinder would need to be on Top Dead Centre. But once done and you move the next set of cylinders to TDC surely there's nothing stopping the conrod from rubbing agaist the bore? Besides i see no reason why i cant split the block with Piston's still attached to conrod's????

Can someone let me know if they have done this themselves and what they found please, as i stopped dead and thought i'd check, right on the point where the block was almost split!!!!!
It reminded me of the end of Sarah Marshall
"He stopped mid-blow job from his ex-girlfriend. You know what that does to a man? It's called blue *****. He's like Gandhi!"

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

you can split block iirc leaving rods and rods in place, think u can get to con rod bolts ok. but u cant remove them from block untill you remove gudeon pins.

i made a slide hammer tool with a hook end. slides through, angled it and tapped out

u can also push them out from other side of block with a long thin screwdriver, put it through other side of block, over piston onto opposite pin. and tap out.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I had thought of that but you can barely see past the con rod of the opposing piston. I'm hoping to get half hour before i go to work this afternoon.

spudboytim

iTrader: (3)

Hi bud,

Ive seen a couple of videos on you tube with regards to removing pistons etc. Hav a look im sure ull find something! tim.

bengo

iTrader: (17)

This video may help?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR0Ed6qTIVQ

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Bengo, i watched that yesterday morning.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

OK, i've frozen my toes off now....

I kept turning the engine over until i could get enough of a gap behind the conrod's to angle a long screwdriver onto the opposite side of the gudgeon pins...



Then gave the underside of each piston a tap to bring them up above ring height and pulled them out, making note which came from which cylinder.




Ok, a few taps with the rubber mallet and the block started to split as you can see from the top of this picture, and i have a small gap all the way round except just under the crank, pulley side, as you can see from the bottom of this picture.


I've counted and completely loosened 17 bolts, although 18 has been mentioned, but I'm buggered if i can find an 18th, 17 has also been said to be the magic number.

sean typer

Loving all the pics,keep them commingWhen i split my v5 99 type r block
i remember seeing about 17 bolts in a few places.I can tell you there was 18 on my block

WMS

iTrader: (2)

18 bolts- 17 x 12mm headed and a 10mm (m6 thread) turn the engine upside down (sump up) and you will find it clamping the water feed together.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I've found this one....

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I've decided to start putting together a real idea of the parts i will need to have a base budget, and then work from there onto the bits i want, and maybe play about with that.

So...
Rebuild kit £162 without or just without using the headbolts - http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...productID=2936
Head Gaskets - £100 - http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...productID=2075
Block gasket set - £140 Advanced Automotive
Head Bolts - $199 (£125 without import tax) http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...ej207-186.html
ACL Bearings - $149 (£100 again without import tax) http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...-ej20-185.html
Rocker Cover gasket's £60 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Imp...item519ce82988

Now this brings me to £800 (WITHOUT IMPORT TAX0. Thats without Pistons/Rods/Crank/Rebore/Machining for thrust. It also is without any other bits I'd like such as oil pump, water pump.
And THEN its also without any of the many many parts i'd upgrade once the engine's in and ran in.

I've probably missed something really obvious! Anyway am i going in the right direction?.

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

try here too:

http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/

Shaks-STI

iTrader: (7)

Speak with Real Street Perfomance about the taxes they will sort you out mate

Dill_typeR

Speak to Mark at Lateral, I'm sure he'll do you a deal if you're after a load of bits.

Dill

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Good Day today!!! Well i spent half hour looking intently at the block, then back at the manual, then back at the block before taking all of the block bolts out fully, counting them, then looking back at the manual. I even went over the thing with a torch in the day light to make sure i wasn't missing anything . then i nipped up all of the bolts, making the block halves flush again. It had occured to me that there was possibly a dowel in the section under the crank at the pulley end, meaning if the block wasn't straight the dowel wouldn't let the halves come apart. Hey presto, the gap opened slightly and once i'd then retaken all the other bolts out of the block....


Booyah!



So then i started taking the conrods off and came across these marks on the big end bearing.


But although they looked to have welded themselves together they looked "intact" and i couldn't see where all the debris had come from until i removed the next one...


As you can see on the right of the picture above they were together, on top of one another!!!



The debris has damaged the crank...


But the conrod seem's unharmed, but whether its re-useable is another thing. So if anyone wants a very very heavy paperweight thats a crank let me know...

And into their new home the block halves go.


In the last 7 days i've been offered a new nitrided 257 crank for less than anywhere else and could possibly pick up some pistons and maybe more from someone breaking their stroker. Oh and my work have told me that as i work unsocial hours i am entitled to a 10% uplift in my pay, and its now also being back-dated to April last year.