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Your ride height is the wrong way round. It seems that the front should be higher than the rear (it is like this on standard suspension and it is best to maintain this after lowering).
Your ride height is the wrong way round. It seems that the front should be higher than the rear (it is like this on standard suspension and it is best to maintain this after lowering).
D.
Would not agree with the above, this depends on many other variables, have mine 5mm lower at front than back (newage) and its dialled out masses of under-steer and made the car far more neutral.
330mm front 335mm back, 1.65 degrees front camber 1.48 rear ( toe in on rear very slight) near 0 toe on front. (cant remember caster without looking but from memory around 4.5deg forward)
Set 5 from stiffest settings on tein type flex (3 clicks stiffer on front than back)
The above for fast road.
Last edited by Ginola; 22 August 2012 at 01:24 AM.
i just didnt know how complicated suspension could be. ive read most of the threads about camber castor and ride height.
i have BC coilovers with various whiteline goodies
ive not been on track with this set up yet.
i will be getting my geometry set up in a week or so, from reading other threads would the best set up be camber -2 at the front -2.5 at the rear, castor as much as poss. with slight toe in at the rear. my ride height with my track tyres is 335 front and 345 back.
i will be doing around 2k road miles a year(very few motorway miles) and a fair few trackdays (money premitting)
is the camber to harsh for the amount of road miles i will be doing?
thanks for any help
dazzer
What year Impreza do you have?
As said you should be higher at the front, as you shouldn't be setting much rake into the car. A few reasons for this, but the main ones are that you will be reducing rear droop as well as reducing effective front caster angle (sort of). Other thing is at the front ride height your roll centre will be below the ground and cause some sideways migration. A roll centre correction will be a must
Generally speaking a good starting point would be as follows:
Classic front 350 rear 345
01-04 front 370 rear 360
05 front 380 rear 360
As for camber, you're about right there, but I would go for toe-in up front (and rear) of ~0.08° for both
Last edited by bonesetter; 22 August 2012 at 07:51 AM.
thanks for the replies, i have a 98 wrx, i have various whiteline mods underneath arb drop links and rear arms, also having roll centre kit and antilift kit and 4 point lower brace fitted this weekend, also getting the free castor upgrade by rotating 180'
i set my ride height about 2 years ago when fitting my bc's unaware of the importance, but after getting a trackday addiction im looking for the optimum set up.
I'll jump in as Arnie hasn't come back yet...he's really the best chap to speak and will prolly add something
Below is a fast road geo print out for a classic. The set-up works very well. There is a fair amount of toe-in (front & rear) which can feel slightly disconnected at slowish straight ahead driving, but comes alive when pushing on and is what I use on my classics.
Note the amount of castor which is a fair bit for a classic (you want as much as possible). This was achieved with an ALK. If your Impreza is a New Age you will have this amount of castor anyway (see Arnie's tips for getting more castor below)
Note: Toe settings and measurements for both below are toe-IN
Here is a New Age print out with more castor. The camber is a little excessive and perhaps one and three quarter degrees may be better, but toe-in is the same
Are any of the two above prints for the 'normal road driving' ?
Thread from the dead I know but rather a bump than start a new thread for an easy question
Will the standard front camber bolts on a newage let you run -1.5 degrees ? Or is it best to get eibachs?
wow, talk about resurrection, i remember this thread but I am sorry not able to answer your question, also I am no longer in the Scooby Arena, now driving BMW 535D M Sport, which I recently got a stage 2 remap running
352 bhp /518 lbs/ft torque
How would I find out the correct geometry settings for a 2006 hawkeye sti Spec D fitted with BC BR coilovers, rota GRA's with Michelin Pilot sport 4's
Thanks
How would I find out the correct geometry settings for a 2006 hawkeye sti Spec D fitted with BC BR coilovers, rota GRA's with Michelin Pilot sport 4's
Thanks
Find a basic start point (read through this thread and then experiment)
Exe tc external reservoir coilovers
White line max c top mounts front
BC adjustable camber rear top mounts
Anti lift kit
Roll centre correction kit
Front camber bolts and exe tc inserts
Is it worth doing the caster mod to my alloy arms?
Anything else to add?
Car is mainly a track toy and fair weather hooner. Run semi slick ns2r most of the times and will take me years to do 5k miles. Lots of drag racing and some sprints etc
Last edited by JGlanzaV; 24 April 2016 at 11:51 AM.
Exe tc external reservoir coilovers
White line max c top mounts front
BC adjustable camber rear top mounts
Anti lift kit
Roll centre correction kit
Front camber bolts and exe tc inserts
Is it worth doing the caster mod to my alloy arms?
Anything else to add?
Car is mainly a track toy and fair weather hooner. Run semi slick ns2r most of the times and will take me years to do 5k miles. Lots of drag racing and some sprints etc
Front:
Maximum caster adjustment
Start at Neg 2 deg 30mins camber (won't help your 60ft times) - reduce, if excessive tyre wear.
Front Toe - start at zero. If your bars aren't giving you the balance you want, then:
0.04 Toe-in per side, sharper turn-in - might induce mid-corner understeer
0.04 Toe-out per side, if car too responsive or twitchy. Turn-in less sharp. Gives throttle controlled oversteer.
Rear:
Neg 1 deg camber
Toe-in 0.15 per side
If it's your local quick fit then they will probs only set it up to standard,
Where are you ?
If you take it to a garage that does Fast road set ups regularly they may well have settings saved.
But yea if they are real mechanics and you gave them a printout or told them settings then they should be able to match them or at least get as close as yours allows.
Depends if the alignment rig is in degrees or degrees and minutes. Your A1 Bodmin printout is in degrees. Veerinder9's printout is degrees minutes
1deg 30 mins = 1.50 degrees
2deg 30 mins = 2.50 degrees
Front toe-in/out:
0.04mins per side = 0.067 degree per side
Rear toe-in
0.15mins per side = 0.25 degree per side
I get you.
So do you have list of all the setting I should be putting on there? Drag is important as I want to be the first car to do a 10 down the strip at the new venue.
Then will adjust at a later date if required.
It's best to adjust camber from the bolts and inserts with the coilovers as opposed to the top mounts? And use the top mounts for caster?
Is it worth doing the free caster mod on my lower arms too?
21 August 2012, 11:17 PM
