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Old 26 September 2011, 06:54 PM
  #31  
TH3_5T1G
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I did plan to have a little tinkle with it tonight but just got in and it's pi55ing down so it's going to have to wait for now

Cheers Graham, admittadly i'd thought about swapping cam position sensors but thought as they worked (showing a reading atleast), i decided not to. But good advice, best not overlooked and yet again, it can't hurt

I see where you're going WMS as i've had the exact same with one of the solenoids 2 years ago, but that did, at the time, produce a different code. Plus, i've swapped the solenoids around, watched the amp draw via my diagnostic machine. Amp draw is the same both sides and when you start the engine you can see the current increase and decrease rapidly as the AVCS performs the actuator tests. Yet again, both move in synchronization

Cheers for the advice Ricky, i've not swapped coils over, it is a long shot but hey, it can't hurt. Checking the timing was supoosed to be on the cards tonight but unfortunately it's lashing it down. Idler, i believe, was new on the new engine

Cheers all for the help and advice so far, it's much appreciated

Last edited by TH3_5T1G; 01 October 2011 at 11:02 PM.
Old 27 September 2011, 09:46 PM
  #32  
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Well i only got to spend a little bit of time on it after work today before it got too dark. Managed to check the timing, that's all good. So only plausible explaination is the cam sprocket.

Rubber mallet tomorrow
Old 29 September 2011, 06:34 PM
  #33  
MikeSTI
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I'm having the same problem with my '05 STI.

My problem is in Bank 1, Code P0011 (Intake Cam Position Timing Over Advanced - Bank 1 [Passenger side]).

Please post if you find the problem. I'm going to the same tests that you did.
I hope I find this problem, is driving me crazy.
Old 29 September 2011, 07:03 PM
  #34  
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Also having the same problem with my 05 sti. The heads switch on and then one over advances way too much which turns them off again.
Old 29 September 2011, 08:00 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by MikeSTI
I'm having the same problem with my '05 STI.

My problem is in Bank 1, Code P0011 (Intake Cam Position Timing Over Advanced - Bank 1 [Passenger side]).

Please post if you find the problem. I'm going to the same tests that you did.
I hope I find this problem, is driving me crazy.
I don't want to scare you Mike but if i were you, i wouldn't even be starting my car with a P0011. Reason being, if it's an oil suplly issue, your turbo runs off the same feed for the AVCS solenoid on bank 1 which AFAIK is the drivers side, not passenger. Only passenger for LHD drive cars such as the USDM cars.

I hope this isn't the case mate but be careful with that one or you'll knacker the turbo pretty quickly
Old 29 September 2011, 08:03 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Tazz
Also having the same problem with my 05 sti. The heads switch on and then one over advances way too much which turns them off again.
When you say it turns them off again (the heads), what exactly do you mean by that? Is your code a P0011 or a P0021?
Old 29 September 2011, 08:11 PM
  #37  
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Now, i got to have a quick look after work today (about 20mins of light) and discovered a few things. One is tapping sprocket with a rubber mallet achieved nothing and the other is that when disconnecting the offending side's cam speed sensor, ECU was still reading 70* advance

Atleast i assume it was the speed sensor i removed. The sensor towarss the rear of the heads, closest to the bulkhead?

Does anyone know if there is a notch on the cam where the gear mates to it that stops the gear from misaligning on the cam? If that makes any sense...
Old 30 September 2011, 12:01 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TH3_5T1G
I don't want to scare you Mike but if i were you, i wouldn't even be starting my car with a P0011. Reason being, if it's an oil suplly issue, your turbo runs off the same feed for the AVCS solenoid on bank 1 which AFAIK is the drivers side, not passenger. Only passenger for LHD drive cars such as the USDM cars.

I hope this isn't the case mate but be careful with that one or you'll knacker the turbo pretty quickly
I got a turbo upgrade, my oil line to the turbo comes straight from the block. Still dangerous? P0011 is the same as yours but at the other side (Bank 1)

EDIT: And also, I am sure my problem is some kind of sensor, it comes and goes. I changed the timing belt and it ''fixed it'' but it came back, went away quickly by his own, 10 minutes later started again and hasnt go away for a couple of weeks now. Oh and my car is USDM.

Last edited by MikeSTI; 30 September 2011 at 12:09 AM.
Old 30 September 2011, 12:06 AM
  #39  
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has the issue Mike appeared since fitting the turbo? how is AVCS now plumbed oilwise?
Old 30 September 2011, 12:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
has the issue Mike appeared since fitting the turbo? how is AVCS now plumbed oilwise?
I bought the car with the turbo already installed, the car was running fine, the stock oil line to the turbo is blocked (welded).
Old 30 September 2011, 07:51 AM
  #41  
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Hmmm.... me to !

P0021 since the re-build. Sometimes it's O.K. and then it's on again.

Simon, need to pay you to diagnose this, and map it when it suits you...

Regards,

dunx
Old 30 September 2011, 08:04 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by dunx
Hmmm.... me to !

P0021 since the re-build. Sometimes it's O.K. and then it's on again.

Simon, need to pay you to diagnose this, and map it when it suits you...

Regards,

dunx
Interesting. Seems A LOT of people get this problem after a rebuild
Old 30 September 2011, 08:07 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by MikeSTI
I got a turbo upgrade, my oil line to the turbo comes straight from the block. Still dangerous? P0011 is the same as yours but at the other side (Bank 1)

EDIT: And also, I am sure my problem is some kind of sensor, it comes and goes. I changed the timing belt and it ''fixed it'' but it came back, went away quickly by his own, 10 minutes later started again and hasnt go away for a couple of weeks now. Oh and my car is USDM.
If you're no longer feeding the turbo from the AVCS oil line then it's not as big of a problem. Not for the turbo anyways.

Out of curiousity, why was the original feed welded shut and you ran a different line? Had it previously had a turbo failure?
Old 30 September 2011, 01:47 PM
  #44  
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I spoke to Mark ( @ Lateral ) and he said apart from putting completely the wrong cams in which won't work, ever...

He has had no cam related issues.

Mine has "new" heads from a different donor, so need to swap my solenoids onto the "new" heads be the sound of it.

dunx

P.S, I also need a re-map, 500 miles ago...
Old 30 September 2011, 03:23 PM
  #45  
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Dunx,

we need to sort booking that, you keep going from no need until after winter to 500miles ago..

lets sort it!

Simon
Old 30 September 2011, 11:55 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by TH3_5T1G
If you're no longer feeding the turbo from the AVCS oil line then it's not as big of a problem. Not for the turbo anyways.

Out of curiousity, why was the original feed welded shut and you ran a different line? Had it previously had a turbo failure?
The turbo was alright, the guy sold it, I have all the threads regarding problems and stuff that my car had. My turbo is mounted is a different location (not stock).


BTW: I fixed it today, Took out the OCV and conected it to 12v making sure the inside moves, like 25 times. Then I took out the timing belt cover and hitted hard (considering this is a delicate piece of ****) the actuator 4 or 5 times with a 32mm socket from the top, turned of the car and wala, no more rough idling. To make sure I disconnected the coil cables and it started to rough idle (before the fix it did nothing)
Old 01 October 2011, 11:05 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by dunx
I spoke to Mark ( @ Lateral ) and he said apart from putting completely the wrong cams in which won't work, ever...

He has had no cam related issues.

Mine has "new" heads from a different donor, so need to swap my solenoids onto the "new" heads be the sound of it.

dunx

P.S, I also need a re-map, 500 miles ago...
Let me know if you solve your issue Dunx
Old 01 October 2011, 11:06 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by MikeSTI
The turbo was alright, the guy sold it, I have all the threads regarding problems and stuff that my car had. My turbo is mounted is a different location (not stock).


BTW: I fixed it today, Took out the OCV and conected it to 12v making sure the inside moves, like 25 times. Then I took out the timing belt cover and hitted hard (considering this is a delicate piece of ****) the actuator 4 or 5 times with a 32mm socket from the top, turned of the car and wala, no more rough idling. To make sure I disconnected the coil cables and it started to rough idle (before the fix it did nothing)
Glad to hear yours is running well now Mike
Old 01 October 2011, 11:11 PM
  #49  
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I changed over the cam sprocket for the one from my old engine today, unfortunately for me, after i put it and timed up the belt, the building next to where i was carrying out the work had a MAJOR gas leak.

Police, fire brigade, gas company all arrived in big numbers. Evacuated the surrounding area with myself included

Hopefully i'll be able to put everything else back on tomorrow and find out the results (fingers crossed)
Old 02 October 2011, 05:53 AM
  #50  
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The problem came back again, I got frustrated and dumped the clutch at 6000 and it went away .. but it came again pulling down my street.
Old 02 October 2011, 02:29 PM
  #51  
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Today i finished fitting the new/old cam gear. I have to say, there was definately a problem with the gear i've removed, however, there are further problems

So, after replacing the gear and putting everything back together, i started it up and to my suprise:

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Notice any difference? 0 degrees on both banks on idle = result!

However, when i touch the loud pedal:

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You can see it does return to 0 degrees on idle but it now hits as much as 91* advance when raising the revs.... (even as early as 1k rpm)

I'm happy that i found the sprocket was an issue on the other cam gear, but very confused as to what the **** is happening now


Tried resetting the ECU and it acheived nothing. Any ideas?

Last edited by TH3_5T1G; 02 October 2011 at 04:24 PM.
Old 02 October 2011, 04:06 PM
  #52  
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LOl Si,

it needs a map, but just at ecu limits till next spring... I just need it running right to avoid you wasting time fixing stupid problems...

Then I'm paranoid.

dunx
Old 03 October 2011, 08:53 PM
  #53  
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Bump

Anyone?
Old 03 October 2011, 11:29 PM
  #54  
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May be an issue with the avcs cam sensor?

It can't be an actual mechanical advance of 80deg as it's not possible so I'd be looking at what is telling the ecu it's at that advance (which is the avcs cam sensor on the back of the head IIRC).

Firstly though I'd be trying different diagnostic software to make sure it's not that.

Try romraider logging software.

Last edited by jameswrx; 03 October 2011 at 11:35 PM.
Old 04 October 2011, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jameswrx
May be an issue with the avcs cam sensor?

It can't be an actual mechanical advance of 80deg as it's not possible so I'd be looking at what is telling the ecu it's at that advance (which is the avcs cam sensor on the back of the head IIRC).

Firstly though I'd be trying different diagnostic software to make sure it's not that.

Try romraider logging software.
Cheers James, unfortunately i don't have romraider or any other logging software, but it had recently occured to me that perhaps the machine i was using was measuring the angle in crankshaft rotation rather camshaft rotation. Would sound feasible as max it's gone to has been 91* which would equate to 45.5* cam rotation were it measured in crank rotation.

I did swap the cam speed sensor with another and it didn't differ at all
Old 04 October 2011, 02:57 PM
  #56  
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Romraider is free. All you need is a obd to USB cable and a laptop.
Old 19 October 2011, 09:47 PM
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Thought i'd update this just incase others ever come across the same issue.

I was given a Syvecs to trial in an attempt to overcome this issue. It appears as though the cam in question (bank 2) had it's speed pickup markings machined in an offset position, from what i understand. With Syvecs, the pickup position can be adjusted whereas in the standard ECU, the acceptable position can not be adjusted.

Atleast this is all from my understanding

Big thanks to Simon yet again for doing his magic, car now runs so smooth it's unreal
Old 19 October 2011, 10:12 PM
  #58  
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It might not be that they are machined wrong, but yes possible, it might just be headgasket, head skim/block skim etc putting it out of range for the standard ecu and hence its hissy fit occurred.

Syvecs you are able to monitor the trigger teeth positions and adjust to get it spot on, I have never seen two cars the same

Glad it drives nice Tom.

Simon
Old 19 October 2011, 10:31 PM
  #59  
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Cheers for clearing that up Simon
Old 20 October 2011, 12:47 PM
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Syvecs, there goes Xmas then... LOL

dunx


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