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Colour code the boot handle, smaller front plate would finish that off
I plan on getting the front bumper (Including fog light surrounds), rear bumper and boot handle all colour coded.
The plan for the plate is to make a custom mount that replaces the passenger side fog light, with the drivers side becoming a feed for the induction kit.
I'm looking for a tower strut brace preferably in carbon / black though can accommodate silver (No other colours). Something like the the 20th anniversary one here, though this will be £300+ once postage and customs have been added.
I'm looking for a tower strut brace preferably in carbon / black though can accommodate silver (No other colours). Something like the the 20th anniversary one here, though this will be £300+ once postage and customs have been added.
Any suggestions?
That's the one I imported from Japan parts , worth the money.
Just watch exchange rates when the £ is better for importing.
I also got the front skirt lip trim at the same time
Delivered including duty and royal mail handling fee I'm sure it was all under £300
Its about £270 including shipping for the strut brace at the moment plus the import duties when it lands. It looks ace, though I have also been looking at the Perrin one which is about £200 landed unless I can find a UK stockist (Not as nice looking, though I am planning on getting some Perrin engine bay bling).
Just booked my MY11 hatch in for a service and been told there's a recall notice on the secondary air pump, new unit to be installed at the service.
Anyone else had the same notification?
Just booked my MY11 hatch in for a service and been told there's a recall notice on the secondary air pump, new unit to be installed at the service.
Anyone else had the same notification?
Mmmm, a bit of digging and in the US there is a recall to replace the relay and the pump if it's in bad condition... it applies to Legacy, Outback, Forester & Impreza/WRX. So I assume it's possibly the same thing...
"A faulty relay that controls the air pump may let the pump run continuously, at which point the pump could overheat, melt, and catch fire"
I'll see in a month when it goes in for service, but can't imagine they'll replace the pump if they can get away with just the relay!
Mmmm, a bit of digging and in the US there is a recall to replace the relay and the pump if it's in bad condition... it applies to Legacy, Outback, Forester & Impreza/WRX. So I assume it's possibly the same thing...
"A faulty relay that controls the air pump may let the pump run continuously, at which point the pump could overheat, melt, and catch fire"
I'll see in a month when it goes in for service, but can't imagine they'll replace the pump if they can get away with just the relay!
Will let you know what happens.
in the usa there is litigation in the UK it will be owners fault for using non oem air fresheners.
perhaps be quite and wait long enough
1) they catch fire instead of a warranty claim
2} they will be in garage for head gasket or pistons done
3} out of warranty and owners foot the bill.
The 340R upgrade is an excuse tweak and an exhaust upgrade right? Does the upgrade involve removing the second cat or is it still there? I'm trying to ponder if changing the exhaust will add much.
When I picked mine up a few months ago, I was told it was a cat back exhaust, ECU replacement, and mine also had a PRO R panel filter. I've since replaced that with a Cosworth item as it was filthy as anything.
I thought the ProR filter was cleanable and reusable?
I believe it is, but I think it was as cost effective to replace it with a Cosworth filter, than to buy the kit to clean the ProR. I prefer replaceable filters too.
Mmmm, a bit of digging and in the US there is a recall to replace the relay and the pump if it's in bad condition... it applies to Legacy, Outback, Forester & Impreza/WRX. So I assume it's possibly the same thing...
"A faulty relay that controls the air pump may let the pump run continuously, at which point the pump could overheat, melt, and catch fire"
I'll see in a month when it goes in for service, but can't imagine they'll replace the pump if they can get away with just the relay!
Will let you know what happens.
Contacted my local Subaru dealer regarding my MY12 STI 340 R and they confirmed that a Secondary Injector Air Pump relay would require replacing. Took the car down and they had it completed in 20 mins.
When I picked mine up a few months ago, I was told it was a cat back exhaust, ECU replacement, and mine also had a PRO R panel filter. I've since replaced that with a Cosworth item as it was filthy as anything.
Hope this helps.
There are 2 cats in the system I think, so does that mean that there are still 2 or the second one has been removed? I'm thinking it could be an easy way for a few more horses 🐴
The 340R upgrade is an excuse tweak and an exhaust upgrade right? Does the upgrade involve removing the second cat or is it still there? I'm trying to ponder if changing the exhaust will add much.
Thanks
Remapped, new back boxes and second cat delete pipe.
If yours was a 320r perhaps just exhaust would be the same.
IMHO the back boxes in the proR kit were complete carp. 😡
Most I know fell apart inside and started rattling 10-25k miles
Some sold car and still weren't replaced. Mine did 12k and failed under warranty Waited ages no joy. So replaced after warranty ran out. I think just binned not worth selling.
When I picked mine up a few months ago, I was told it was a cat back exhaust, ECU replacement, and mine also had a PRO R panel filter. I've since replaced that with a Cosworth item as it was filthy as anything.
Hope this helps.
Amazing what people are told
ECU remapped (on an exchange basis or return to subaru via dealer).
2nd Cat replacement pipe.
Replacement sports silencers
Originally Posted by bulldog
There are 2 cats in the system I think, so does that mean that there are still 2 or the second one has been removed? I'm thinking it could be an easy way for a few more horses ��
I had "a" Subaru remap applied at Subaru UK HQ (Coleshill) with both cats still in place but an H&S catback exhaust - 340 BHP/360lbft
Don,
Who remapped your car?
I'm not sure where to take mine. I'm based in Northamptonshire. Have Invidia N1 catback 3", 3" downpipe (not fitted)
Any other cheap mods to squeeze a few more ponies from it?
Don,
Who remapped your car?
I'm not sure where to take mine. I'm based in Northamptonshire. Have Invidia N1 catback 3", 3" downpipe (not fitted)
Any other cheap mods to squeeze a few more ponies from it?
As stated - "I had "a" Subaru remap applied at Subaru UK HQ (Coleshill)" as a gesture for those of us who purchased the cars new prior to the 320R free upgrade.
Has anyone changed their dip beam D2S lamps for some of the latest generation ones and if so which ones and what colour temperature?
I'm wanting a little more light and throw on unlit roads, but kind of like the colour of the originals, does anyone know what colour temp they are?
I was considering going for something in the region of 4800K. Auto Express did a test in 2016 and the Osram Night Breaker Unlimited Xenarc was the best, has anyone got any first hand experience or suggestions?
Has anyone changed their dip beam D2S lamps for some of the latest generation ones and if so which ones and what colour temperature?
I'm wanting a little more light and throw on unlit roads, but kind of like the colour of the originals, does anyone know what colour temp they are?
I was considering going for something in the region of 4800K. Auto Express did a test in 2016 and the Osram Night Breaker Unlimited Xenarc was the best, has anyone got any first hand experience or suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Andrew
Have been running OSRAM D2S Cool Blue Intense XENARC +20% and 5000K for sometime
Just checked my old bulbs and they are Philips 85122 + 110F17. Looking on the Philips website the "standard" bulb seems to be 4400K. The gen 2 looks promising https://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-au/car...ry.p-grid-icon
Cheers Don
I was thinking the Philips ones looked interesting, if a tad expensive. I might give them a go.
Thanks for checking the colour temp of your old ones, 4400K makes sense, I think I'll go to 4800K for a slightly whiter output.
Evening Guy's,
For those in the know, can I please ask what the oil temp should be in the 2.5's once warmed up,
Cheers
Hugh
Bit of a 64K dollar question - depends on what the engine is doing at the time, and also depends where the temp sensor is located.
From a Harvey post ....
Classics typically cruise at 84-86 C oil temp and NEW Age or 2.5 perhaps as much as 10C more.
Unless driven very hard Classics won't go much higher than 105C but New Age and 2.5 can go over 100 regularly past 110-115. When on track I come in if I ever get to 125C. This is on a car at well over 500 bhp. The oil manufacturers all state that the temp limit is 140C and all VAG and Porsche I have seen that run oil temperature guages as standard, even the very old quatrosof the 70s and 80s all had the red line at 140C.
Water should normally be mid 80s and a common cause of high oil temperature is a blocked water radiator causing water and oil temperatures to increase.
I was asked the question today while at the garage, 'How many 2010 - 2013 shaped saloons where bought to the Uk' my answer was 'I have no idea, but I know a bunch of guys who might' so does anyone on here no the answer....
