blimey im shocked at those maintenance costs, imagine what a 2013/4 WRC costs

 

I have been told the fiesta WRC engine is exchanged for a new one when the mileage is up , 1500 klms , you don't have yours built , and its £35k !

 

Engine rebuild every 1k miles at £4k a pop Aaaahhhh i would have stuck with the GT-R . You may be able to reverse the deal ! It might not be too late !!!! Merry Christmas

 

1k miles is about 12-15 rallies so not all bad lol , it's stage mileage they go on not road mileage

 

So can you could run one of those engines on the road for tens of thousands of miles between rebuilds?

If that's the case it makes more sense to me, I would suspect if I hammered even one of the best engines anyone on Scoobynet owns in the top level of competition it would expire well before 1500km...

 

Wrc engines are rated in hours not miles lol ,,, here is mine in its current state

 

Domino is spot on they dont change them after miles but hrs run

But when they sell them they sell with how many miles they have done.

Transmission: 150kms
Turbo: 470kms Rear Diff: 40kms
Fuel Box: 470kms
Exe-TC Dampers: 40kms
Hubs & D/Shafts: 200kms

ect ect

 

I have never heard of anyone lifing there engines in hours , only mileage , and then it's stage mileage not including road mileage , I have been told by Melvyn Evans , Graham Sweet , and autosportif that I should get 1000 stage miles between rebuilds of engine box and diffs , unless something breaks , which does happen rallying .
The only thing I have been told will need looking at on a regular basis is shimming the carbon clutch.
Here is mine in its current state

 

Awesome looking rally car!! Would love to have one in the garage but back to the GTR....

After a long wait, the bootlid has been fitted Thanks again Sly (I know Im impatient)....





Car is a little dirty, but you get the idea!

 

More pics... luckily had a little sun yesterday

 

That's smart . How did that boot lid get done mate ?

 

KnightRacer part rather good fit

 

very nice...really changes\smooths the rear end, you must be well pleased

 

Nice GTR graham, i like how it stands out from other GTRs

I was wondering do you need to put V-power in these or can it be normal unleaded?

Regards,

Subaru Collector 555.

 

Looks great IMO

 

cheers guys! very happy with it, changes the style of the car quite a bit for the better IMO

I run it on vpower, but the ECUTek software allows me to change the fuel map and boost on the fly. 3 different fuel maps and the boost is completely adjustable from 0.5-1.5/7 bar (not sure on the high boost).

 

Lovely looking motor Graham. An icon of our generation, and yours is a very tastefully treated example!

 

Thanks.... was so very tempted to come back to Subaru ownership when I saw your hatchback!

I just love the GTR too much It is so easy to get carried away with modding the GTRs, tried to keep it simple, clean and purposeful. So not too much more planned:-

*2012 suspension (already have these, just waiting for fitting) - slightly better comfort and race mode
*custom rear spoiler (starts being made with next service)
*track wheels
*brakes - when the stock ones die

After the above, its down to safety and weight:-

*lightweight seats
*remove the rear seats
*carpet over
*maybe a light TI exhaust
*maybe a rear half rollcage (not sure on this one just yet)

 

My mates just brought a 13 plate gtr he wants to replace the whole exhaust system and remapped what would the bhp gains be by doing this?

 

Depends on the "whole exhaust" piece... the main gain is removing the cats. There are cats in the downpipes and the ypipe. Most exhaust systems do not include the downpipes.

Around 600bhp is my guess... downpipes, panel filters and injectors would be 620-630bhp.

Thats pretty much as far as you can go before opening the engine up. You can do turbos, which make more BHP, but they cannot make more torque. Limited due to rods.

 

About 100 BHP. He will need injectors too.

 

Thanks he knows out the cats In the down pipe so he`d be looking at 630-650 with total exhaust and remap, then engine mod s for more power?

 

Turbos for more power after that, but you want to think about the conrods, gearbox circuits/baskets/clutches for more torque reliably.

Personally, just a map is enough for me on a 2009, the car is still balanced and reliable and you really have to think abut the road surface and conditions when using the torque.

 

Is that on a totally standard MY09 John & what did just the remap make?
Did you go ECUTEK?

 

No... will max out the injectors around 600 and Im not sure about the intakes. I have K&N panel filters and they limiting me now, but I am happy with my power level.

You can get turbos done without the engine and run 650-700bhp, but the torque is limited to 600-620, about the same as my car. Dont really see a point to this turbo upgrade.... costs a fair bit and only bhp figures, doubt it will give much on the track or drag strip.

 

Power wise definitely agree, but I like the sound of my exhaust and ended up chasing numbers... got 596bhp and really wanted to get it over 600

After stage 4 (stage 4.25 with downpipes) it starts to cost a fortune to get decent power upgrades.

 

I found intakes maxed out in line with injectors

The stock turbo go flat after 5/5.5k, after market units keep the car gunning through the redline also there's just generally more area under the power curves which makes for a use able road car (admit that the stock car is also more than ample for 99% of applications!)

 

Cobb. Totally standard but very carefully custom mapped. Dyno figures are nonsense, but my map on a car with a midpipe did 620. Midpipe adds about 10, but the dyno adds about 40!

 

Want a red gtr sooo bad.. can afford to buy one juat the bloody servicing costs that worry me

Ryan

 

Tyres have become cheaper and there are aftermarket brake discs and pads too.

I have adopted the 2011- schedule on my 2009 and only do 5000 miles a year, so it sees the dealer for an annual oil change for which they charge me £150 and I supply the oil myself, they stamp the book and last time gave a year's Nissan recovery. I had the trans oil changed by the dealer at 18 months when it only had 9000 miles but have just changed it myself 3 years later (old stuff looked like new though but was aftermarket and a bit jerky when cold), Pentosin FFL-R designed for the GT-R was under £200. I am not changing the front and rear diff oils after 13000 miles of road use since they were last done. The secondary air filter looked clean and only squirts air into the exhaust when cold, so I did not replace it.

Things like sparks, air filter, coolant, brake fluid are similar in frequency to most other cars, and overall, engine oil once a year and trans oil every three isn't a killer. Depreciation has been very kind, but mine is a long term keeper. I don't consider I am scrimping on servicing, just doing it a bit more sensibly considering its mileage which the official schedule doesn't allow for on the early cars, but I am not selling it and it is out of warranty, so my only responsibility is to myself.