"Back to the future," in a JDM STI Ver-9 Widetrack
#181
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Whats all this about Trousers!!!!! I prefer skirts!!! lol
I dont actually think I need an SC42 yet, the car has now turned into a bit of lunatic , in fact there's nothing much in in it in terms of power between the Spec C. What it needs now is improved braking (discs/fluid/lines) & alignment again. Would'nt mind some coilovers though
I dont actually think I need an SC42 yet, the car has now turned into a bit of lunatic , in fact there's nothing much in in it in terms of power between the Spec C. What it needs now is improved braking (discs/fluid/lines) & alignment again. Would'nt mind some coilovers though
We all knew you preferred skirts
#183
Update:
Over the last few months have been doing a few things on the car with the help of HVS, Rickmansworth.
-Fitted the Whiteline KSR206 Rack & Pinion Mount Kit
At the same time we re-welded the captive nut on the subframe that holds the rack in place. This was because it had some rust & corrosion around it & did not look secure enough, let alone after the increased forces that will be placed upon it after fitting this kit.
At the same time we replaced one track rod end that was worn & a drop link that was cracked with OEM items. A steering wheel adjustment was also then required to get everything straight again (Thanks Maggy for that!). Then the front wheels toe re-done to get everything spot on.
This kit really has firmed up the handling & compliments the ALK perfectly, there is much greater feel from steering inputs, especially at higher speeds. Though the trade off is low speed turning has become harder, almost as if the PAS is half working. But Im not too bothered as it never see's any supermarket car parks etc for 3 point turns!
Then last week we fiited a set of Godspeed 330mm front & rear Grooved brake discs, HEL Braided lines, and Dot 5 brake fluid. Coupled with the EBC BlueNDX pads (pads already fitted 4 months ago) & the Brembo calipers.
This has been without doubt the best mod I have done on the car, strange though this may sound. Going from worn out brake discs, with old fluid & a torn brake line to this setup has transformed how I drive the car. A good brake setup will increase the speed of a car so much easier than increased bhp IMO. The confidence it gives you to go in faster, brake later, harder & stay on the revs/power longer is often over looked. I should have done this mod first!
Jobs to Do:
-Fit a new a rubber O ring for alloy radiator drain plug
-Fit a new lower gasket for turbo (think its the return line one)
-Modify exhaust to stop it rattling now & then
And a few other mods in the pipeline
Over the last few months have been doing a few things on the car with the help of HVS, Rickmansworth.
-Fitted the Whiteline KSR206 Rack & Pinion Mount Kit
At the same time we re-welded the captive nut on the subframe that holds the rack in place. This was because it had some rust & corrosion around it & did not look secure enough, let alone after the increased forces that will be placed upon it after fitting this kit.
At the same time we replaced one track rod end that was worn & a drop link that was cracked with OEM items. A steering wheel adjustment was also then required to get everything straight again (Thanks Maggy for that!). Then the front wheels toe re-done to get everything spot on.
This kit really has firmed up the handling & compliments the ALK perfectly, there is much greater feel from steering inputs, especially at higher speeds. Though the trade off is low speed turning has become harder, almost as if the PAS is half working. But Im not too bothered as it never see's any supermarket car parks etc for 3 point turns!
Then last week we fiited a set of Godspeed 330mm front & rear Grooved brake discs, HEL Braided lines, and Dot 5 brake fluid. Coupled with the EBC BlueNDX pads (pads already fitted 4 months ago) & the Brembo calipers.
This has been without doubt the best mod I have done on the car, strange though this may sound. Going from worn out brake discs, with old fluid & a torn brake line to this setup has transformed how I drive the car. A good brake setup will increase the speed of a car so much easier than increased bhp IMO. The confidence it gives you to go in faster, brake later, harder & stay on the revs/power longer is often over looked. I should have done this mod first!
Jobs to Do:
-Fit a new a rubber O ring for alloy radiator drain plug
-Fit a new lower gasket for turbo (think its the return line one)
-Modify exhaust to stop it rattling now & then
And a few other mods in the pipeline
Last edited by rickya; 22 November 2011 at 01:50 PM.
#184
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I'm surprised you went for one-piece disks, 2-piece would have been lighter and cheaper to replace in the long-term only requiring new discs when you hammer them on the track
#187
For my purposes the 2 piece disks were overkill IMO. If I were doing regular trackdays then maybe I would appreciate the differences more, but really with this set up the car stops HARD. Also I got a set of front and rear grooved disks, Hel braided lines, dot 5 fluid, Inc vat and delivery for £276. Just a set of front 2 piece disks are approximately £450. Replacement disk part is approx £250
Yeah John those shocks don't look too good What would you recommended!
53, the track rod ends needed replacing hence alignment. Rack had to come out for welding on subframe captive nut. I suppose if the rack was marked properly when taking out then wouldn't have to adjust it from steering wheel later.
Yeah John those shocks don't look too good What would you recommended!
53, the track rod ends needed replacing hence alignment. Rack had to come out for welding on subframe captive nut. I suppose if the rack was marked properly when taking out then wouldn't have to adjust it from steering wheel later.
Last edited by rickya; 22 November 2011 at 04:49 PM.
#199
Update:
Recently sold off my Hyper Black STi 17" wheels & tyres at a good price and picked up a bargain on some 18" Innovit wheels. Maggy sorted out some new tyres and fitting
Been messing about trying to get the correct clock spring which I now have after going through swapping a few! Also picked up a passenger side tail light, as the previous owner has broken the plastic bulb holders while trying to faff about changing the bulbs Thanks to Jap Performance parts.
Had the other side track rod end done & re-aligned at Hounslow Tyres with my own aggressive track settings. Car handles very nicely now on std suspension but with Camber bolts, Anti lift kit, Whilteline Uprated steering rack kit and custom alignment.
Also picked up an Exedy 6 speed, Racing Pink clutch kit from Lateral Performance & lots of Silkolene Silktran fluid from Opie Oils. Will be fitting asap with flywheel skimmed as well as changing Rear diff fluid.
Recently sold off my Hyper Black STi 17" wheels & tyres at a good price and picked up a bargain on some 18" Innovit wheels. Maggy sorted out some new tyres and fitting
Been messing about trying to get the correct clock spring which I now have after going through swapping a few! Also picked up a passenger side tail light, as the previous owner has broken the plastic bulb holders while trying to faff about changing the bulbs Thanks to Jap Performance parts.
Had the other side track rod end done & re-aligned at Hounslow Tyres with my own aggressive track settings. Car handles very nicely now on std suspension but with Camber bolts, Anti lift kit, Whilteline Uprated steering rack kit and custom alignment.
Also picked up an Exedy 6 speed, Racing Pink clutch kit from Lateral Performance & lots of Silkolene Silktran fluid from Opie Oils. Will be fitting asap with flywheel skimmed as well as changing Rear diff fluid.
Last edited by rickya; 31 January 2012 at 01:48 PM.
#200
Good news and a bit of cross threading!
During previous mapping sessions and fast driving I have noticed a slightly lower than should be Torque figure for such a car. Bhp was a touch lower than expected but more so with the torque figures. Spool up increased greatly since swapping from the worn VF37 to a mint VF36 a few months ago. But we still found while mapping, that nailing the throttle would cause a slight loss of boost and being progressive with the throttle gave better figures. I put this down to either a map sensor or ECU boost parameter issue? - Something to look into at a future date.
Yesterday when we removed the old clutch (seemed like a basic organic) it was found to be, in technical terms "absolutely fooked"! Apart from the friction surface being completely worn, the rivets were also worn down too. The flywhel was in even worse state with both sides of the flywheel worn / scored by the clutch rivets and heat spots etc. The flywheel bearing was also partially seized. So the flywheel was sent off to Hayes engineering to have it skimmed properly. The next day the Exedy Pink kit clutch & skimmed / lightened flywheel fitted along with new bearings & Silkolne silk tran fluid & rear diff fluid also changed.
Taking it for a test drive it was obvious that the car was previously suffering from bad clutch slip. The clutch had not been properly engaging against the flywheel especially under heavy load, such as on the dyno on full load. Looking back now it did feel like a loss of power, e.g the revs in the engine did go up, but it didn't accelerate as it should. -"the slip causing the clutch to disengage slightly and spin at a different rate to the flywheel". The car now feels almost like a different car, more torque in every gear, pulling harder-quicker, and firm precise gear changes. Putting your foot down has instantaneous effects rather than just engine revving noise!! Funny how a badly worn clutch and flywheel can affect performance so much and led me to looking in the wrong direction at ECU & map sensors!
As well as that we also discovered the incessant rattling I had between 2,000rpm to 3,000rpm was thankfully just a lose up-pipe heat shield and nothing sinister! We also cut a bit out of the underside in a couple of places to stop the exhaust rattle & mangaed to sort the bung fitment in case it is needed. For the first time since I bought this "mini project" I can say that its all coming together at last.
The cross threading omen which undoubtedly will follow where ever I go for the rest of my life had to strike!! The drivers side wheel bearing decided to die while testing & while removing the already half worn Brembo caliper, the bolt hole decided to lose its thread! So hopefuly this Friday we should have the new wheel bearing cartridge fitted, Brembo caliper with steel inserts all put back together. Though unfortunately a brake fluid bleed & alignment will be required again I am wondering if it may be worth doing the passenger side bearing and caliper steel inserts also & then doing the alignment?
Thanks to Hughberry Vehicle Services for above work, and no, the fire brigade were not needed this time!
During previous mapping sessions and fast driving I have noticed a slightly lower than should be Torque figure for such a car. Bhp was a touch lower than expected but more so with the torque figures. Spool up increased greatly since swapping from the worn VF37 to a mint VF36 a few months ago. But we still found while mapping, that nailing the throttle would cause a slight loss of boost and being progressive with the throttle gave better figures. I put this down to either a map sensor or ECU boost parameter issue? - Something to look into at a future date.
Yesterday when we removed the old clutch (seemed like a basic organic) it was found to be, in technical terms "absolutely fooked"! Apart from the friction surface being completely worn, the rivets were also worn down too. The flywhel was in even worse state with both sides of the flywheel worn / scored by the clutch rivets and heat spots etc. The flywheel bearing was also partially seized. So the flywheel was sent off to Hayes engineering to have it skimmed properly. The next day the Exedy Pink kit clutch & skimmed / lightened flywheel fitted along with new bearings & Silkolne silk tran fluid & rear diff fluid also changed.
Taking it for a test drive it was obvious that the car was previously suffering from bad clutch slip. The clutch had not been properly engaging against the flywheel especially under heavy load, such as on the dyno on full load. Looking back now it did feel like a loss of power, e.g the revs in the engine did go up, but it didn't accelerate as it should. -"the slip causing the clutch to disengage slightly and spin at a different rate to the flywheel". The car now feels almost like a different car, more torque in every gear, pulling harder-quicker, and firm precise gear changes. Putting your foot down has instantaneous effects rather than just engine revving noise!! Funny how a badly worn clutch and flywheel can affect performance so much and led me to looking in the wrong direction at ECU & map sensors!
As well as that we also discovered the incessant rattling I had between 2,000rpm to 3,000rpm was thankfully just a lose up-pipe heat shield and nothing sinister! We also cut a bit out of the underside in a couple of places to stop the exhaust rattle & mangaed to sort the bung fitment in case it is needed. For the first time since I bought this "mini project" I can say that its all coming together at last.
The cross threading omen which undoubtedly will follow where ever I go for the rest of my life had to strike!! The drivers side wheel bearing decided to die while testing & while removing the already half worn Brembo caliper, the bolt hole decided to lose its thread! So hopefuly this Friday we should have the new wheel bearing cartridge fitted, Brembo caliper with steel inserts all put back together. Though unfortunately a brake fluid bleed & alignment will be required again I am wondering if it may be worth doing the passenger side bearing and caliper steel inserts also & then doing the alignment?
Thanks to Hughberry Vehicle Services for above work, and no, the fire brigade were not needed this time!
Last edited by rickya; 02 February 2012 at 02:17 PM.
#202
I was thinking that too but with Snetterton on Feb 26th I think it may be cutting it fine. Il get these bits sorted this week along with maybe a mini front wheel alignment and bed in the clutch. Iv got a busy two weeks starting next week and wont have much spare time till after the 20th Feb. That will leave only 5 days before Snetterton and with my cross threading abilities I would rather leave as is! Though the secret item" you are referring to is still hidden under my staircase!
#203
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I was thinking that too but with Snetterton on Feb 26th I think it may be cutting it fine. Il get these bits sorted this week along with maybe a mini front wheel alignment and bed in the clutch. Iv got a busy two weeks starting next week and wont have much spare time till after the 20th Feb. That will leave only 5 days before Snetterton and with my cross threading abilities I would rather leave as is! Though the secret item" you are referring to is still hidden under my staircase!
#205
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I was thinking that too but with Snetterton on Feb 26th I think it may be cutting it fine. Il get these bits sorted this week along with maybe a mini front wheel alignment and bed in the clutch. Iv got a busy two weeks starting next week and wont have much spare time till after the 20th Feb. That will leave only 5 days before Snetterton and with my cross threading abilities I would rather leave as is! Though the secret item" you are referring to is still hidden under my staircase!