"Back to the future," in a JDM STI Ver-9 Widetrack
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Last weekend started tweaking the newly fitted Tein coilovers as I was having some issues. Mainly an unusual noise from the rear nearside coilover which was getting progressively worse. Also suffering from a very tail happy lose rear end.
Possible causes was not enough preload as this was not set at time of fitting due to rush & also general spring movement against top hat.
It definitely needed more preload on rear as spring was lose in coilover, so I increased preload only a little as I would rather do it in stages. (will need a little more preload still on rear & maybe a little less preload on front). This obviously changes the ride height as increasing the preload on the helper spring causes ride height to increase & vice versa. So ride height will have to adjusted this weekend. At the same time I fitted what Tein call a Rubber Silencer for the top coil, apparently this reduces any normal coilover clunking by quite a lot. So gave it a clean, grease & AF250 anti corrosion spray too.
Also discovered the loud knocking noise getting worse was due to the bottom most locking collars being completely lose on two rear coilovers & one on front!


Silencer rubber as fitted in brown on top coil

More fun & games this bank holiday weekend getting the ride height & preload right!
Also fitting another little suspension mod courtesy of woodbutch
Possible causes was not enough preload as this was not set at time of fitting due to rush & also general spring movement against top hat.
It definitely needed more preload on rear as spring was lose in coilover, so I increased preload only a little as I would rather do it in stages. (will need a little more preload still on rear & maybe a little less preload on front). This obviously changes the ride height as increasing the preload on the helper spring causes ride height to increase & vice versa. So ride height will have to adjusted this weekend. At the same time I fitted what Tein call a Rubber Silencer for the top coil, apparently this reduces any normal coilover clunking by quite a lot. So gave it a clean, grease & AF250 anti corrosion spray too.
Also discovered the loud knocking noise getting worse was due to the bottom most locking collars being completely lose on two rear coilovers & one on front!


Silencer rubber as fitted in brown on top coil
More fun & games this bank holiday weekend getting the ride height & preload right!
Also fitting another little suspension mod courtesy of woodbutch
Last edited by rickya; May 1, 2013 at 09:46 PM.
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Oh no, more scope for cross-threading. With a bit of time (and close supervision) you could get that extra vain in the diffuser looking as good as some of the more expensive aftermarket ones
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Thanks Jura 
John that was just knocked up quickly but like you say the finish could easily be improved..... probably not by me though! Lol
....aha "Vain" is the correct word I was looking for, thanks John.

John that was just knocked up quickly but like you say the finish could easily be improved..... probably not by me though! Lol
....aha "Vain" is the correct word I was looking for, thanks John.
Last edited by rickya; May 2, 2013 at 05:43 PM.
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Finally finished faffing about with the Tein Coilovers and have eliminated any unwanted knocks and clunks. Just need to chuck in the rear Eibach camber bolts at time of re-alignment.
Managed to pick up some used, but newly powdercoated Whiteline 24mm front (fixed) & rear (adjustable) anti roll bars from a Scoobynet member selling them through Ebay. Also got some barely used Ferrodo DS2500 rear brake pads (Sti Brembo fitment). Got all three items for under £170 delivered
Not sure what to do with the front brakes yet though 
Managed to pick up some used, but newly powdercoated Whiteline 24mm front (fixed) & rear (adjustable) anti roll bars from a Scoobynet member selling them through Ebay. Also got some barely used Ferrodo DS2500 rear brake pads (Sti Brembo fitment). Got all three items for under £170 delivered
Not sure what to do with the front brakes yet though 
Last edited by rickya; May 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM.
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Thanks for the offer, may need some help with front ARB which has not ever been off the car. Been really busy last few weeks with work and family stuff but we should try and get together this week and chuck on all the bits which are piling up!
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I was speaking to Steve at Hughberry the other week and he was still cursing your suspension job
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Iv spoken to Dave from Opentrack & will send payment this week for Donnington for Aug 16th. I really want to do Bedford as its not too far from me & is a very reasonable price, Im just in two minds about drive by db & the twin scroll exhaust??
Ricky, your car is looking more and more immense as you continue upgrading almost every part possible.
Great job and as always a pleasure to read from ones experience.
I'd like some better handling too. I've got on the car Whiteline ALK, Whiteline Adjustable ARB, BC Coilovers, fast road geo and Vreds ulc tyres. What do you suggest as you are the man to have tried everything.
Great job and as always a pleasure to read from ones experience.
I'd like some better handling too. I've got on the car Whiteline ALK, Whiteline Adjustable ARB, BC Coilovers, fast road geo and Vreds ulc tyres. What do you suggest as you are the man to have tried everything.
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Come round one day & we'l go for a blast

ps this Friday is oil & filter change, the suspension is getting tweaked again with Hardrace trailing arms adjusted, adding rear camber bolts and then another alignment next week.
Last edited by rickya; Jul 31, 2013 at 08:23 PM.
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Prep for Donnington 16th Aug
Last week did an oil & filter change & went to a 10w-50w Fuchs instead of the usual 10w-40w Gulf Competition. Also made a few adjustments to the suspension fitment / setup. Today went to Car Care Kensington where Omar works and got them to check all the suspension, making sure all bolts etc were tight. (surprisingly a couple were'nt!! lol) Then it was a full alignment again: checking rear track width and adjusting the now infinitely adjustable full suspension to my specs. Almost 2 hours later, very happy with the final setup.
Turn in, especially into medium sized roundabouts are a hoot, I cant really explain the levels of grip & G's it develops into such corners, coupled with fine controlability, albeit with added stiffness and no play.

Could get a bit more positive castor by dismantling top mount plate, swopping left / right over & then flipping wishbone pins. But dont want to mess with the expensive new Tein Monoflex coilovers.
Last week did an oil & filter change & went to a 10w-50w Fuchs instead of the usual 10w-40w Gulf Competition. Also made a few adjustments to the suspension fitment / setup. Today went to Car Care Kensington where Omar works and got them to check all the suspension, making sure all bolts etc were tight. (surprisingly a couple were'nt!! lol) Then it was a full alignment again: checking rear track width and adjusting the now infinitely adjustable full suspension to my specs. Almost 2 hours later, very happy with the final setup.
Turn in, especially into medium sized roundabouts are a hoot, I cant really explain the levels of grip & G's it develops into such corners, coupled with fine controlability, albeit with added stiffness and no play.
Could get a bit more positive castor by dismantling top mount plate, swopping left / right over & then flipping wishbone pins. But dont want to mess with the expensive new Tein Monoflex coilovers.
Last edited by rickya; Aug 6, 2013 at 02:38 PM.
There's really only one way of knowing & that is by driving it, properly & then sitting back and thinking about how the car behaves, what you want out of your car, how should it behave on different levels, which is also dependant upon your driving style and how to get to that point.
Come round one day & we'l go for a blast
Come round one day & we'l go for a blast

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I have similar camber settings and it does wear the tyres on the inner edge but it grips like stink when cornering. Just beware oil starvation as a result of too much grip - worth considering a sump baffle at least if not a fully baffled sump
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Your quite right John
With the complete suspension change to a more hardcore track setup this can cause oil surge issues on fast flowing tracks with long turns, such as Donnington. If the inevitable does happen then I think a trip to Paul Finch @ Finch Motorsports may be on the cards!
(ex F1 Williams engine technician who helped build engines for David Coulthard!). But I have taken some preventative actions short of a baffled sump, which is a full breather system to ease crankcase pressure, return to sump fitting and over filling the oil a bit!
With the complete suspension change to a more hardcore track setup this can cause oil surge issues on fast flowing tracks with long turns, such as Donnington. If the inevitable does happen then I think a trip to Paul Finch @ Finch Motorsports may be on the cards!
(ex F1 Williams engine technician who helped build engines for David Coulthard!). But I have taken some preventative actions short of a baffled sump, which is a full breather system to ease crankcase pressure, return to sump fitting and over filling the oil a bit!
Hi Ricky
We are running similar camber settings like you are and car feels awesome like on the road or track,about the tyre wear is OK,after doing several track days and drag runs tyres been are still in good shape and don't have excessive tyre wear
Depends on tyres what you will be running and how hard you will be running,but you shouldn't have problems with the oil surge,if yes then baffled sump or sump plate can help to prevent this,we run on previous 2.1L Cosworth baffled plate and we never have problems with oil surge(as per logs after each session I've logged all data)
Jura
We are running similar camber settings like you are and car feels awesome like on the road or track,about the tyre wear is OK,after doing several track days and drag runs tyres been are still in good shape and don't have excessive tyre wear
Depends on tyres what you will be running and how hard you will be running,but you shouldn't have problems with the oil surge,if yes then baffled sump or sump plate can help to prevent this,we run on previous 2.1L Cosworth baffled plate and we never have problems with oil surge(as per logs after each session I've logged all data)
Jura
Interesting toe settings rear less then front... This oil starvation thingy is very controversial... The best thing to do is when driving hard ,try to check the oil pressure gauge , I did that on cadwell It was all fine and i do drive my japanese **** box properly...
.... On long right hander it might be risky and what Jon and Jura mentioned would be good to add.. I have this baffled sump plate , but thinking to get their (kilerbeez) oil pick up pipe as well.... I dont think Re070's will generate enough of grip for an oil starvation.... baffled sump? Maybe in the future , when you grow your ***** to push it 100% .... Seriously , it's all down to the level you want to be / compete in.... Felly is having only baffled sump on his 2.1 500bhp car as i remember and has never had a problem... Do it obviously if you can afford it , no question...
.... On long right hander it might be risky and what Jon and Jura mentioned would be good to add.. I have this baffled sump plate , but thinking to get their (kilerbeez) oil pick up pipe as well.... I dont think Re070's will generate enough of grip for an oil starvation.... baffled sump? Maybe in the future , when you grow your ***** to push it 100% .... Seriously , it's all down to the level you want to be / compete in.... Felly is having only baffled sump on his 2.1 500bhp car as i remember and has never had a problem... Do it obviously if you can afford it , no question...
Ricky,
For what it's worth I would be looking at increasing your castor. I run just under 6degs. Turn in is very very good (feels pretty pointy). Because of the castor achieved means I only run normal camber angles (little over -1deg front), which translates to pretty much zero inside tyre wear.
Best of both worlds.... increased camber angle on the turn-in only and normal even tyre wear when going in a straight line.
For what it's worth I would be looking at increasing your castor. I run just under 6degs. Turn in is very very good (feels pretty pointy). Because of the castor achieved means I only run normal camber angles (little over -1deg front), which translates to pretty much zero inside tyre wear.
Best of both worlds.... increased camber angle on the turn-in only and normal even tyre wear when going in a straight line.






