SRSport

From what Ive read you can go with batteries that have a higher specification and itll be fine but go with one lower and you will have issues. It isnt something Ive fully understood why as if the battery has a higher spec surely the alternator would have to work harder to suply it with more juice, wouldnt it?

Lofty91

Yes, do you use them?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Even if the battery is the wrong spec it will not cause the alternator to overheat. Without referring to a chart and having model and year I am not sure exactly what battery you should have but it will be approximately, 48,52 or 56 ampere/hour (AH) and 12 volt obviously.
There will be plenty of competant auto electricians around Leeds who can check out your battery and alternator, just find one you can trust.
If you are struggling with that and fancy a drive to Darlington (by appointment) we can check battery and alternator, replace either if necessary, charge the repair costs for the alternator only if that needs replacing and set your mind at rest. That said, it is a long way to come 60mls for what can only be a very basic problem.

SRSport

I have got a few quotes from them and took a test drive once. I think they wanted £300 to change the breaks that I supplied! Took it to HDC Subaru and they charged me £50!!

The car I looked at was 2 years ago. It was a Hawkeye sport wagon, '07 with 12,000 miles up for a bargain £10,999!! So I went to MKar Subaru and bought a '56 with 6,200 miles saloon for £7995!!

Im not surprised you were quoted that much now.

Sorry for the !! I dont normally put these in but found it necessary in this post.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

The reverse is the case. Batteries are rated in ampere hours and the bigger the number the more tha capacity so it should be able to provide battery power for longer say the car will not start or it is sitting lights on and engine off. In normal running the alternator is replacing the current used so regardless of the size of battery the current replacement is the same. Think of the battery as a big water tank. What goes out must come in to keep it full.

Lofty91

Thanks for the offer Harvey

Yeah finding somebody local you can trust is the hard part

Label on my battery shows 60AH

SRSport

Thanks, I knew it must be like that as everyone says go for the biggest possible but never knew why.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

60 ampere hour battery is more capacity than I expected and certainly big enough for anything a normal Subaru will need. It means the battery has enough power to start the engine in arctic conditions with temperatures like -20 to -25C. If you go to Halfords they will probably check your battery FOC and that eliminates the battery from the equation. It is not unknown for new batteries to have a collapsed cell but it is unlikely especially if the battery is a known make.

Lofty91

Its a Unipart battery so not really a top of the range brand like bosch.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Known make, but it doesn't mean anything really, even the best can be sold duff.

I once replaced a starter in freezing conditions on a MkI Escort Mexico. I bought a genuine Lucas one, only to have to do the whole job again two weeks later when the new one went US. Lovely job that needed the oil pump lowered to get at the starter

I remember it being so cold that the duffle coat I was wearing froze to the floor, and I had removed the skin off about four knuckles, but didn't know until I came back into the house, as I couldn't feel my hands.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Unipart batteries are usually faily good, not sure if they still do their lifetime guarantee though. Bosch are ok, but more of a name - the Bosch on our BMW is struggling now and its about half the age of the OEM Varta battery.

Look lets try and sort this. Have you got a voltmeter?

First thing tomorrow morning open the bonnet and check the voltage, DO NOT start the car or turn on the ignition. Measure the voltage across both the battery terminals, make a note of it and post the reading on here as accuratly as possible, including at least two decimal places (i.e: 12.78v), also post the oustide temperature for that morning if you have it handy.

If its below 12.5volts it definetely needs charging - even if its a new battery, you have no idea of how long its been stood on the shelf or if it was properly charged after the acid was added (some batteries are supplied dry to the wholesaler, who then add the acid and charge it) or if there is an overnight drain on the vehicle electrics (for example, a duff tracker).

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

If its a new age STI alternator then the silly price is right you cant repair them as such as it depends what has gone wrong (ie the microchip controlling the "smart" charging = scrap metal), but there are new ones if I remember that are oem for half the price, do a search, you may come up with something

Tony

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

The "chip" is just part of the regulator circuitry, which in turn is part of the brush box...a £20 part on BMWs

(Its quite common to have the regulator intergrated into the brushbox housing).

This is a A3TG0491 as fitted to MY06 Imprezas (STi has a A2TG0391 whch is identical in layout just its 90amps instead of 110amp).



The issue is main dealers don't sell regulator/brush housings. You'll have to find an alternator re-manuafacturers thats stocks them and is willing to sell you one, but most would rather sell you a complete new/rebuilt alternator.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Ali is right, alternators have ALWAYS been thought of as some sort of black art. They ARE repairable. Someone put it together, so it must be able to be taken apart. Assuming the parts are available, what's the problem?

GC8Andy

If your still concerned please contact me tomorrow.Cheers Andy@Richard Henry.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

My first proper job was at LSUK rebuilding them (along witrh starter motors, diesel injectors and distribution pumps) - I was 16 at the time. So if a 16 year old can do it, well, that says it all.

Admittedly some don't come apart quite as easy as others as they may require de-soldering, but its still not a complex task (except when finding out where the left over thrust washer was supposed to go ).

Lofty91

Hi Andy,

The replacement terminal cap you supplied has not melted/fallen apart like the originals did so its seems to be OK for now, i just wanted to make sure i had covered all the bases if you know what i mean.

I like to know things are running properly so i don't get any expensive surprises.

Thanks for checking it over for me

Lofty91

Update,

Ali B, I've checked the battery as you advised and these were the results

- 12.23v after standing 24hrs with engine off and an outside temp of -6

- 12.52v with engine running and no load (engine was still cold when checked if that makes any difference)

- 14.28v with engine running and load (lights, heater, radio)

Double checked what battery i have and its label shows 60ah, RC 90, en450, brand is unipart.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

12.23volts is waaay to low to mate. Thats only about 50% charged at that temperature.

It will still start the engine, but its stressing the alternator and also damaging the battery (below 75% causes sulphation, which will knacker the battery).

Got a charger? If so what type; automatic (shuts itself down) or dumb? If its automatic then just stick it on charge until its says its ready.

But ifs its dumb charger, you need to know its current output to calculate how long it need to get a full charge. I'm guessing its a 50amp hour battery (for sakes of matematical simplicity, you need to put in (or "fill up") the battery to replace what is lost . Batteries below 75% change need roughly twice the amps put back in than what was taken out (don't ask why - its very long winded).

So, if the charger gives out 2amps, then a 50% charged battery will need 50amp hours (25amp hours x 2 ) to fully charge it, which is about 25 hours.

Lofty91

I'm confused, i had already contacted Unipart and they said it should be 12.4v - 12.6v. Are you saying i should see higher than this?

I don't have a charger

dunx

iTrader: (3)

I have a big-*** dumb charger...

You know where I am !

dunx

P.S. Txt if you're coming for it

ScoobySteve69

iTrader: (13)

Jesus a recon cost me twice that




That`s spot on what I was quoted.

Lofty91

So is 12.23v low then i thought that was normal.

I could well need the charger mate, I'll let you know

dunx

iTrader: (3)

It's not an un-reasonable figure given the temperature...

IMHO

dunx

Lofty91

Thats what i thought but then i'm no expert as you know.

Lofty91

Scoobysteve69, thanks for confirming that its nice to know we are all getting ripped off equally lol.

So did you buy the recon one from the dealer? and what happened to the original one?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Thats right: they say 12.4volts MINIMUM, that is equal to about 75% full.

Yours is 12.2v which is 50%, so it needs charging

You see, lead acid batteries left below 75% will get damaged if left long-term, so its should always be kept at 75% or higher (i.e 12.4v to 12.6v ). It also varies on temeprature too.

This table should explain what I mean:



At today's temps you should see at the very minimum 12.36v or higher.

(source http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#ocv_soc )

Lofty91

I see, that has made it much clearer thanks. Got to go to work now so will try get it on charge tomorrow.

Dunx, found out my dad has a charger but not sure what type so i'll try that first but thanks for the support as always.

Also many thanks to ALi B for the knowledge, cheers

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Ali: I'm assuming by a dumb charger, you mean one that has no electronic sensing of battery voltage on it?

I ask because my wife's car is on charge at the mo, starting at 2.5V from our Halfords special, and by the time I take it OFF charge tomorrow, the charge rate will be so low it's only detectable by seeing the needle fall on switching off.

I was taught that a battery charger will reduce the charge as the charge in the battery gets greater, ie: as battery voltage rises?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Just some information from what I have been doing today. Classics with an alternator in good condition can charge up to 90 amps and the battery voltage with the engine running is typically 14.4v.
As well as alternator bearings which are only a few pennies cost new and diodes, Subarus also go through regulators. A typical alternator rebuild, subject to how much work needs done is around £100.

Try charging your battery for at least 12 hours. At that point all should be well but it is easy for any competant Auto Electrician to identify whether it is battery or alternator.