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Old 11 December 2010, 06:45 PM
  #61  
Glowplug
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
b13bat thanks

Jamz I'm an Essex boy lol
The Only Way Is Essex.

Originally Posted by Jaywalker
That one looks alot easier the the first one i looked at lol the simple one looks like just joining the two connectors together IE usb to the legacy audio harness via soldering lol I can do that lol
That's it exactly Jay.
Old 11 December 2010, 07:33 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
b13bat thanks

Jamz I'm an Essex boy lol
Bugger, thats me out the equation on putting another set of eyes on the fixing process.
Old 13 December 2010, 10:02 AM
  #63  
Jaywalker
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Any good scooby tuners in Essex?
Old 14 December 2010, 09:45 PM
  #64  
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I have a 95wrx with exactly the same problem if i reset ecu its fine sometimes for a day or two then back down to 0.5 really annoying like you say especially when cars are keeping up with you that shouldnt it really is day and night with how the car feels when its bossting properly i have also changed bcs pes well everything mounted on the turret with no joy could a sticking standard dv cause this just a thought after reading everything might go mental with the wd40 tomorrow see if it helps if not im getting to the point where i could set fire to it lol surely one of us will strike lucky soon.
Old 14 December 2010, 10:11 PM
  #65  
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All i can think is you all have knock issues to one extent or another. I would suggest perhaps trying to find a RR or a tuner with a set of det cans or knock link.
I think most/all online options are close to exhaustion. Sorry chaps.
Old 14 December 2010, 11:09 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by IMPORTPETE
I have a 95wrx with exactly the same problem if i reset ecu its fine sometimes for a day or two then back down to 0.5 really annoying like you say especially when cars are keeping up with you that shouldnt it really is day and night with how the car feels when its bossting properly i have also changed bcs pes well everything mounted on the turret with no joy could a sticking standard dv cause this just a thought after reading everything might go mental with the wd40 tomorrow see if it helps if not im getting to the point where i could set fire to it lol surely one of us will strike lucky soon.

Contact the DV manafacturer.i e-mailed baily motorsport and they refurbished my DV for £35,and gave me a 12 month warranty on it!
WD40 is a quick fix,but nothing compairs to getting it done right the first time.
Old 15 December 2010, 05:14 PM
  #67  
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Servicing the aftermarket DV is easy you just need to buy the right grease, my spring broke in my forge DV contacted them they sent me through a new spring with grease for free (broken spring known problem they said) just take apart degrease and clean apply new grease to moving parts and reassemble lol but the forge DV's have screws to take apart not sure about others or standard recirc DV,

A little update don't know if I'm going to jinx it or not but put V power in 3 days ago and reset the ECU and 3 days on It's still pulling strong feels a little bit perkier as well with the v power more responsive, I might look into getting a knock sensor fitted.
Old 15 December 2010, 06:17 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
A little update don't know if I'm going to jinx it or not but put V power in 3 days ago and reset the ECU and 3 days on It's still pulling strong feels a little bit perkier as well with the v power more responsive, I might look into getting a knock sensor fitted.
Old 16 December 2010, 12:26 PM
  #69  
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hi I have a my1996 wagon uk standard apart from decat dv air induction kit i had the same prob with boost holding off i changed oil + filter plugs, maf coil packs solenoid as alot of ppl recomended anyway nothing changed untill i was messing under the bonet one day & i thought i will change the fuel filter and BANG!!!! problem solved!!! car runs great just goes to show the simplest idea i probthe best
Old 19 December 2010, 10:20 PM
  #70  
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The Dam car has gone back to 0.5bar i give up so i stuck the MBC back on,

The fuel filter is a good idea i will change it anyway as its due a service but im gonna wait till the snows gone to cold to be working on the car lol

I'll let you know how i get on thanks for all the help guys
Old 19 December 2010, 10:33 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
The Dam car has gone back to 0.5bar i give up so i stuck the MBC back on


So you like playing russian roulette I see. You need to get that on some rollers for a diagnostic check asap. A check-up is not expensive.
Old 20 December 2010, 11:24 AM
  #72  
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I had this problem in the end I solved the problem by selling the car and buying a better one
Old 21 December 2010, 01:00 AM
  #73  
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I know dan you are quite right it was just a spur of the moment thing I wont be leaving it on it doesnt solve the problem either still drives like crap but only difference is it boosts correctly lol

Does anyone know where i can get a rolling road check up from in Essex, I have tried ringing mocom but it always goes to answer phone ?

chasey believe me I have thought about it lol but when she's working I'm well happy with her, It's just getting me down now paying so much for the fuel now as well cant even enjoy her.
Old 21 December 2010, 09:17 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
I know dan you are quite right it was just a spur of the moment thing I wont be leaving it on it doesnt solve the problem either still drives like crap but only difference is it boosts correctly lol
The thing is Jay the ECU may well have lowered the fuel input too, so adding your MBC will be leaning the mixture out. And we all know what happens then. Bang!

A sensor has gone down somewhere, it will probably cost little to put right once you know what it is. The MBC on the other hand could end up costing you £1000's

Take it off matey.
Old 21 December 2010, 11:37 AM
  #75  
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I know but finding that dodgy sensor is eluding me at the mo,

I did notice that my ECU has had a plug soldered into it you know the type for the plug in chip and the resistor (J1 i think) has been cut and resoldered by the previous owner, there in no chip in there at present but could this have anything to do with my problem may be the resistor is not working hundred percent, I have checked previously my car has the 3B ECU and is not supposed to have that adaptor soldered to the board.
Old 21 December 2010, 12:33 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
I know but finding that dodgy sensor is eluding me at the mo,

I did notice that my ECU has had a plug soldered into it you know the type for the plug in chip and the resistor (J1 i think) has been cut and resoldered by the previous owner, there in no chip in there at present but could this have anything to do with my problem may be the resistor is not working hundred percent, I have checked previously my car has the 3B ECU and is not supposed to have that adaptor soldered to the board.
As long as the J1 is connected Jay it will be fine, they are just 0 ohm resistors.

As i said before mate, it sounds like you have some degree of knock occurring and the ECU is pulling the timing.
It can be something simple like the KS being loose or another component close to the KS rattling. Or it can be poor fuel quality.
You really need to monitor the knock with either det cans or knock-link. You can build your own here or implement the SSM cable as i posted before.

Of course, if it is knock you will then need to find the cause.
Old 02 March 2011, 07:35 PM
  #77  
Jaywalker
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Hi guys just a quick up date still havent solved the problem yet but i have done loads

Took the car to see zack at Mocom he put all his bit and bobs on it and we took it for a drive, he said it was knocking slightly when i changed gear and to get a walbro fuel pump and change the plugs and gapped correctly at .6mm

After doing all that i actually gave the car a full service reset the ECU and although the car seemed faster the ECU still pulled back the boost,

So i thought id start checking out the oxygen sensor all i could find on it was a japanesse part number on it tried to get a uk part number from the dealer but he refused to tell me lol so i contact just lambda i had the one with the 2ft lead on it and the only one he sold with the longer lead on it cant remember the part number but ill post it when i get home,

When i got it the signal pin was in the wrong place so moved it over and then it worked the sensor was giving off the correct voltage checked it with a osiliscope as well, my old sensor was kuput no movement in the output signal it stayed at 0.2v and there was no ohmms reading from the heater new sensors was giving off the right noises lol

After changing the sensor i reset the ECU and something strange happened just after starting the car up (I connected both green and black plugs and full throttle then half throttle for 2 secs) and just as i started to move the check engine light flashed constant like it would do after a normal reset, strange boost was restored but only for a couple of drives and then the ECU pulled back the boost again,

Im stuck again, It does now smell rich when i start her up in the morning strong smell of fuel while the choke is on, now that i have upgraded the fuel pump could the Fuel pressure regulator be causeing my problems i think there are only a few sensors left that i havent changed lol


As before any help in pointing me in the right direction would be brilliant
Old 01 May 2011, 07:50 PM
  #78  
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I am also having the same problem on my 93 wrx seems very common on early ones. I was told to replace the actuator but after reading this I'm not so sure.
Old 02 May 2011, 11:11 PM
  #79  
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i have the same with a bugeye

changed actuator - same thing :S

in mornign ill take offf the 2 port and put a 3 port on and wire it up to see if that makes a difference.

if that fails i have another turbo to try on there.

its boosting same as above 0.4bar
wont go any higher !!

dave
Old 05 May 2011, 07:39 PM
  #80  
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How you getting on with this mate? Any luck yet
Old 14 May 2011, 06:33 PM
  #81  
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bttt
Old 16 May 2011, 09:48 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by dibbleyuk
I am also having the same problem on my 93 wrx seems very common on early ones. I was told to replace the actuator but after reading this I'm not so sure.
Hi dibbleyuk, The actuator is very very easy to test and baring the waste-gate not seating right or the actuator rod or spring bent or broken not much else to worry about with the actuator, if you have a foot pump with a gauge on it i used my air compressor, just put a football attachment on the end you know the cone plastic thing and put the rated air pressure (mines 0.7bar don't go to high with the pressure) through the pipe work leading to the actuator took mine off the BCS and and look to see the arm of the actuator moves freely and no sounds of air escaping from it hold it on and off for 20 seconds ish just to make sure its working and that's about it for the actuator.


Originally Posted by DAVE26
i have the same with a bugeye

changed actuator - same thing :S

in mornign ill take offf the 2 port and put a 3 port on and wire it up to see if that makes a difference.

if that fails i have another turbo to try on there.

its boosting same as above 0.4bar
wont go any higher !!

dave
Hi dave, How did you get on?, on my year I can check the BCS not to sure about your year via the green test plugs, I know its sounds silly but have you checked all the pipe work for the boost system? there is a way to eliminate the turbo from the problem but you have to be careful bypass the BCS IE: take off the pipe from the turbo to the BCS but be very careful it will boost til your turbo blows up accelerate slowly and just see if it goes past 0.4bar Or a much safer way would be a MBC which you can set to reach what ever boost you want just to check your turbo can boost higher than 0.4bar I would advise this method as its safer, If you have tried this already just ignore this post lol
Old 16 May 2011, 09:51 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by dibbleyuk
How you getting on with this mate? Any luck yet

Hi dibbleyuk, not to well I'm affraid my turbo just let go last night on my way home its dead lol gonna replace the turbo and see if that help will keep you posted
Old 16 May 2011, 09:57 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by burbling1
bttt
I know this is going to sound silly what does Bttt mean? lol

Just an update on my car my turbo died last night I don't know if its related to this problem or not but I'm going to replace the turbo with a TD05 but don't know if its a direct fit I have started another thread with this question because I don't know if its related

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...wrx-wagon.html

Thank again for the help
Old 16 May 2011, 10:49 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
I know this is going to sound silly what does Bttt mean? lol
Back To The Top

Originally Posted by Jaywalker
Just an update on my car my turbo died last night I don't know if its related to this problem or not but I'm going to replace the turbo with a TD05 but don't know if its a direct fi

Thank again for the help
It is a direct swap. The TD04 unit is standard on yours.
You will need to swap the ECU as well, Z4 would be a good choice.
Old 16 May 2011, 11:11 AM
  #86  
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Thanks b13bat will look for one, will it run with my 3b if I poodle need the car asap for work till I can get the z4 thanks
Old 16 May 2011, 01:08 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
Thanks b13bat will look for one, will it run with my 3b if I poodle need the car asap for work till I can get the z4 thanks


I wouldn't do it.

Search ebay for "z5 ECU".

Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA
12.7PSI- (0.9BAR)
260PS- (256 BHP)
7500 RPM
(you just have to be aware of the increased redline)

Compared to

3B WRX WAGONS
10.55PSI (0.7BAR) DROPPING TO 6.84PSI (0.5BAR) STARTS TO DROP @ 5000RPM – FUEL CUT 13.79PSI (0.95BAR)

Huge increase of 40PS/39BHP and 0.5BAR @5k!
Old 16 May 2011, 02:10 PM
  #88  
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Im not going to be racing need the car for transport so I will be driving slow lol it's either that or public transport for me, z5? I thought you said z4? Can either one fit?
Old 16 May 2011, 02:15 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Jaywalker
Im not going to be racing need the car for transport so I will be driving slow lol it's either that or public transport for me,
You do as you please.


Originally Posted by Jaywalker
z5? I thought you said z4? Can either one fit?
Yeah there are shed loads that fit , some have better benifits than others.
Old 16 May 2011, 03:54 PM
  #90  
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Ok thanks again


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