Boost problems on standard WRX wagon
#64
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I have a 95wrx with exactly the same problem if i reset ecu its fine sometimes for a day or two then back down to 0.5 really annoying like you say especially when cars are keeping up with you that shouldnt it really is day and night with how the car feels when its bossting properly i have also changed bcs pes well everything mounted on the turret with no joy could a sticking standard dv cause this just a thought after reading everything might go mental with the wd40 tomorrow see if it helps if not im getting to the point where i could set fire to it lol surely one of us will strike lucky soon.
#66
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I have a 95wrx with exactly the same problem if i reset ecu its fine sometimes for a day or two then back down to 0.5 really annoying like you say especially when cars are keeping up with you that shouldnt it really is day and night with how the car feels when its bossting properly i have also changed bcs pes well everything mounted on the turret with no joy could a sticking standard dv cause this just a thought after reading everything might go mental with the wd40 tomorrow see if it helps if not im getting to the point where i could set fire to it lol surely one of us will strike lucky soon.
Contact the DV manafacturer.i e-mailed baily motorsport and they refurbished my DV for £35,and gave me a 12 month warranty on it!
WD40 is a quick fix,but nothing compairs to getting it done right the first time.
#67
Servicing the aftermarket DV is easy you just need to buy the right grease, my spring broke in my forge DV contacted them they sent me through a new spring with grease for free (broken spring known problem they said) just take apart degrease and clean apply new grease to moving parts and reassemble lol but the forge DV's have screws to take apart not sure about others or standard recirc DV,
A little update don't know if I'm going to jinx it or not but put V power in 3 days ago and reset the ECU and 3 days on It's still pulling strong feels a little bit perkier as well with the v power more responsive, I might look into getting a knock sensor fitted.
A little update don't know if I'm going to jinx it or not but put V power in 3 days ago and reset the ECU and 3 days on It's still pulling strong feels a little bit perkier as well with the v power more responsive, I might look into getting a knock sensor fitted.
#69
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hi I have a my1996 wagon uk standard apart from decat dv air induction kit i had the same prob with boost holding off i changed oil + filter plugs, maf coil packs solenoid as alot of ppl recomended anyway nothing changed untill i was messing under the bonet one day & i thought i will change the fuel filter and BANG!!!! problem solved!!! car runs great just goes to show the simplest idea i probthe best
#70
The Dam car has gone back to 0.5bar i give up so i stuck the MBC back on,
The fuel filter is a good idea i will change it anyway as its due a service but im gonna wait till the snows gone to cold to be working on the car lol
I'll let you know how i get on thanks for all the help guys
The fuel filter is a good idea i will change it anyway as its due a service but im gonna wait till the snows gone to cold to be working on the car lol
I'll let you know how i get on thanks for all the help guys
#71
#73
I know dan you are quite right it was just a spur of the moment thing I wont be leaving it on it doesnt solve the problem either still drives like crap but only difference is it boosts correctly lol
Does anyone know where i can get a rolling road check up from in Essex, I have tried ringing mocom but it always goes to answer phone ?
chasey believe me I have thought about it lol but when she's working I'm well happy with her, It's just getting me down now paying so much for the fuel now as well cant even enjoy her.
Does anyone know where i can get a rolling road check up from in Essex, I have tried ringing mocom but it always goes to answer phone ?
chasey believe me I have thought about it lol but when she's working I'm well happy with her, It's just getting me down now paying so much for the fuel now as well cant even enjoy her.
#74
A sensor has gone down somewhere, it will probably cost little to put right once you know what it is. The MBC on the other hand could end up costing you £1000's
Take it off matey.
#75
I know but finding that dodgy sensor is eluding me at the mo,
I did notice that my ECU has had a plug soldered into it you know the type for the plug in chip and the resistor (J1 i think) has been cut and resoldered by the previous owner, there in no chip in there at present but could this have anything to do with my problem may be the resistor is not working hundred percent, I have checked previously my car has the 3B ECU and is not supposed to have that adaptor soldered to the board.
I did notice that my ECU has had a plug soldered into it you know the type for the plug in chip and the resistor (J1 i think) has been cut and resoldered by the previous owner, there in no chip in there at present but could this have anything to do with my problem may be the resistor is not working hundred percent, I have checked previously my car has the 3B ECU and is not supposed to have that adaptor soldered to the board.
#76
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I know but finding that dodgy sensor is eluding me at the mo,
I did notice that my ECU has had a plug soldered into it you know the type for the plug in chip and the resistor (J1 i think) has been cut and resoldered by the previous owner, there in no chip in there at present but could this have anything to do with my problem may be the resistor is not working hundred percent, I have checked previously my car has the 3B ECU and is not supposed to have that adaptor soldered to the board.
I did notice that my ECU has had a plug soldered into it you know the type for the plug in chip and the resistor (J1 i think) has been cut and resoldered by the previous owner, there in no chip in there at present but could this have anything to do with my problem may be the resistor is not working hundred percent, I have checked previously my car has the 3B ECU and is not supposed to have that adaptor soldered to the board.
As i said before mate, it sounds like you have some degree of knock occurring and the ECU is pulling the timing.
It can be something simple like the KS being loose or another component close to the KS rattling. Or it can be poor fuel quality.
You really need to monitor the knock with either det cans or knock-link. You can build your own here or implement the SSM cable as i posted before.
Of course, if it is knock you will then need to find the cause.
#77
Hi guys just a quick up date still havent solved the problem yet but i have done loads
Took the car to see zack at Mocom he put all his bit and bobs on it and we took it for a drive, he said it was knocking slightly when i changed gear and to get a walbro fuel pump and change the plugs and gapped correctly at .6mm
After doing all that i actually gave the car a full service reset the ECU and although the car seemed faster the ECU still pulled back the boost,
So i thought id start checking out the oxygen sensor all i could find on it was a japanesse part number on it tried to get a uk part number from the dealer but he refused to tell me lol so i contact just lambda i had the one with the 2ft lead on it and the only one he sold with the longer lead on it cant remember the part number but ill post it when i get home,
When i got it the signal pin was in the wrong place so moved it over and then it worked the sensor was giving off the correct voltage checked it with a osiliscope as well, my old sensor was kuput no movement in the output signal it stayed at 0.2v and there was no ohmms reading from the heater new sensors was giving off the right noises lol
After changing the sensor i reset the ECU and something strange happened just after starting the car up (I connected both green and black plugs and full throttle then half throttle for 2 secs) and just as i started to move the check engine light flashed constant like it would do after a normal reset, strange boost was restored but only for a couple of drives and then the ECU pulled back the boost again,
Im stuck again, It does now smell rich when i start her up in the morning strong smell of fuel while the choke is on, now that i have upgraded the fuel pump could the Fuel pressure regulator be causeing my problems i think there are only a few sensors left that i havent changed lol
As before any help in pointing me in the right direction would be brilliant
Took the car to see zack at Mocom he put all his bit and bobs on it and we took it for a drive, he said it was knocking slightly when i changed gear and to get a walbro fuel pump and change the plugs and gapped correctly at .6mm
After doing all that i actually gave the car a full service reset the ECU and although the car seemed faster the ECU still pulled back the boost,
So i thought id start checking out the oxygen sensor all i could find on it was a japanesse part number on it tried to get a uk part number from the dealer but he refused to tell me lol so i contact just lambda i had the one with the 2ft lead on it and the only one he sold with the longer lead on it cant remember the part number but ill post it when i get home,
When i got it the signal pin was in the wrong place so moved it over and then it worked the sensor was giving off the correct voltage checked it with a osiliscope as well, my old sensor was kuput no movement in the output signal it stayed at 0.2v and there was no ohmms reading from the heater new sensors was giving off the right noises lol
After changing the sensor i reset the ECU and something strange happened just after starting the car up (I connected both green and black plugs and full throttle then half throttle for 2 secs) and just as i started to move the check engine light flashed constant like it would do after a normal reset, strange boost was restored but only for a couple of drives and then the ECU pulled back the boost again,
Im stuck again, It does now smell rich when i start her up in the morning strong smell of fuel while the choke is on, now that i have upgraded the fuel pump could the Fuel pressure regulator be causeing my problems i think there are only a few sensors left that i havent changed lol
As before any help in pointing me in the right direction would be brilliant
#79
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i have the same with a bugeye
changed actuator - same thing :S
in mornign ill take offf the 2 port and put a 3 port on and wire it up to see if that makes a difference.
if that fails i have another turbo to try on there.
its boosting same as above 0.4bar
wont go any higher !!
dave
changed actuator - same thing :S
in mornign ill take offf the 2 port and put a 3 port on and wire it up to see if that makes a difference.
if that fails i have another turbo to try on there.
its boosting same as above 0.4bar
wont go any higher !!
dave
#82
i have the same with a bugeye
changed actuator - same thing :S
in mornign ill take offf the 2 port and put a 3 port on and wire it up to see if that makes a difference.
if that fails i have another turbo to try on there.
its boosting same as above 0.4bar
wont go any higher !!
dave
changed actuator - same thing :S
in mornign ill take offf the 2 port and put a 3 port on and wire it up to see if that makes a difference.
if that fails i have another turbo to try on there.
its boosting same as above 0.4bar
wont go any higher !!
dave
#83
#84
I know this is going to sound silly what does Bttt mean? lol
Just an update on my car my turbo died last night I don't know if its related to this problem or not but I'm going to replace the turbo with a TD05 but don't know if its a direct fit I have started another thread with this question because I don't know if its related
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...wrx-wagon.html
Thank again for the help
Just an update on my car my turbo died last night I don't know if its related to this problem or not but I'm going to replace the turbo with a TD05 but don't know if its a direct fit I have started another thread with this question because I don't know if its related
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...wrx-wagon.html
Thank again for the help
#87
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I wouldn't do it.
Search ebay for "z5 ECU".
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA
12.7PSI- (0.9BAR)
260PS- (256 BHP)
7500 RPM
(you just have to be aware of the increased redline)
Compared to
3B WRX WAGONS
10.55PSI (0.7BAR) DROPPING TO 6.84PSI (0.5BAR) STARTS TO DROP @ 5000RPM – FUEL CUT 13.79PSI (0.95BAR)
Huge increase of 40PS/39BHP and 0.5BAR @5k!
#88
Im not going to be racing need the car for transport so I will be driving slow lol it's either that or public transport for me, z5? I thought you said z4? Can either one fit?