500bhp - Newage? How drivable? + Possible from an MD321T or only a V?
13 October 2010, 07:19 PM
#31
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If your Newage is lighting all the wheels up at 500bhp you need to take it to someone that knows how to set the chassis up correctly! 
If you intend in using this on track at this kind of level I hope you have deep pockets!
Going down the shops is one thing..... nailing it on track is an entirely different ball game!
If you intend in using this on track at this kind of level I hope you have deep pockets!
Going down the shops is one thing..... nailing it on track is an entirely different ball game!
13 October 2010, 08:24 PM
#32
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Just sweet talk Arf into a run out...
Mine's a couple of hundred shy of Arf's but it hasn't tried to kill me.... ( YET ! )
LOL
dunx
Mine's a couple of hundred shy of Arf's but it hasn't tried to kill me.... ( YET ! )
LOL
dunx
13 October 2010, 10:37 PM
#34
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http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2156652.htm
may be prepared to deal.
as you can see this car has been worked on by the best a no expence spared build the heads alone were over 3k
may be prepared to deal.
as you can see this car has been worked on by the best a no expence spared build the heads alone were over 3k
I recognise those pictures - I put a fair bit of the original build together
14 October 2010, 02:57 AM
#35
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every day go to work car not a show queen that gets polished to death, car is for sale on PH just to make way for another project, but the spec is there,
its very drivable its prety quiet, its comfortable as stock new ages are,
it dont have loads of guages just a combo oil temp and presure guage, why do you need a boost guage? push the pedal and it does a fair impersonation of a starship... but its never undrivable but it is 600 /540 so if its driven stupidly it will bite and bite hard, if you overtake the bus on an average high st using full boost you will probably end up killing someone,
if you overtake the bus in a normal way it handles quiet normal its not a switch thats on or off it dosent need 3k rpm to pull away slipping the clutch we also have a 640/550 evo V111 and that is a pig compared to the scooby
its very drivable its prety quiet, its comfortable as stock new ages are,
it dont have loads of guages just a combo oil temp and presure guage, why do you need a boost guage? push the pedal and it does a fair impersonation of a starship... but its never undrivable but it is 600 /540 so if its driven stupidly it will bite and bite hard, if you overtake the bus on an average high st using full boost you will probably end up killing someone,
if you overtake the bus in a normal way it handles quiet normal its not a switch thats on or off it dosent need 3k rpm to pull away slipping the clutch we also have a 640/550 evo V111 and that is a pig compared to the scooby
and its running stock brembos...is this even safe?
14 October 2010, 08:05 AM
#36
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thats exactly what i was experiecing in my friends car, if its not like that, then im even more excited. defo the route i am going to go then. thanks
14 October 2010, 08:09 AM
#37
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anger: what engine is your 321t running on? 2.5? thats some good figures!
14 October 2010, 09:11 AM
#38
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can you read???
as stated.....UPRATED
Paul at zen speced the brakes for the car,
as i said it was money no object it could have had any braking system arround but pauls oppinion was that as its not a serious track car mostly road and santa pod that his upgrade to the stock brakes was fine and i have to say that thing stops well
its just a perception gained from monkey see monkey do, That to stop you need to get aftermarket calipers, when in reality most of the time your swapping like for like,
the calipers just push the pads on to the disc nothing else, and brembos do that as well as any other 4 pot, its the pads and discs that stop you,
the pads and discs on this car are not standard
its done over 10 k miles at this power and is still in one bit and it does get ragged (enough to need an engine freshen up)
that tell you something
as stated.....UPRATED
Paul at zen speced the brakes for the car,
as i said it was money no object it could have had any braking system arround but pauls oppinion was that as its not a serious track car mostly road and santa pod that his upgrade to the stock brakes was fine and i have to say that thing stops well
its just a perception gained from monkey see monkey do, That to stop you need to get aftermarket calipers, when in reality most of the time your swapping like for like,
the calipers just push the pads on to the disc nothing else, and brembos do that as well as any other 4 pot, its the pads and discs that stop you,
the pads and discs on this car are not standard
its done over 10 k miles at this power and is still in one bit and it does get ragged (enough to need an engine freshen up)
that tell you something
Last edited by Badbird; 14 October 2010 at 10:49 AM.
14 October 2010, 11:07 AM
#40
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I swapped from PF + Brembos to AP six pot (330mm) and the difference is astonishing...
Initial bite is superb and fade is a distant memory now.
The PF + Brembo set-up isn't up to a 600 bhp car, driven properly, IMHO.
But I do like good brakes, and use them too !
dunx
P.S. As the owner of a nice new Audi ( with scuffed alloys ) will testify... he didn't make it off the slip-road whilst trying to keep up, LOL.
Initial bite is superb and fade is a distant memory now.
The PF + Brembo set-up isn't up to a 600 bhp car, driven properly, IMHO.
But I do like good brakes, and use them too !
dunx
P.S. As the owner of a nice new Audi ( with scuffed alloys ) will testify... he didn't make it off the slip-road whilst trying to keep up, LOL.
14 October 2010, 11:19 AM
#41
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I swapped from PF + Brembos to AP six pot (330mm) and the difference is astonishing...
Initial bite is superb and fade is a distant memory now.
The PF + Brembo set-up isn't up to a 600 bhp car, driven properly, IMHO.
But I do like good brakes, and use them too !
dunx
P.S. As the owner of a nice new Audi ( with scuffed alloys ) will testify... he didn't make it off the slip-road whilst trying to keep up, LOL.
Initial bite is superb and fade is a distant memory now.
The PF + Brembo set-up isn't up to a 600 bhp car, driven properly, IMHO.
But I do like good brakes, and use them too !
dunx
P.S. As the owner of a nice new Audi ( with scuffed alloys ) will testify... he didn't make it off the slip-road whilst trying to keep up, LOL.
anyway we can argue this all day the key to it is "IMHO" Obviously Pauls oppinion is different to yours and paul built the car and did the brakes
the point im making is they are not standard brakes, they stop the car well, the car isnt driven like a ***** its well used,
if you had done the work i guess we would have different brakes simple as that,
our Evo has all the AP stuff 6 pots and all the good bits so i know exactly how good they are, and if the scooby dont sell and gets turned into a track car we will upgrade also
incidently 600 hp Blob, 640 evo8 truth is the evo will kill the scooby in first/second the scooby then comes alive and is every bit as good as the evo up to their max speed, the scooby is much nicer to drive the cheap plastic in the evo reminds me of an early iveco truck, the evo handles better the ayc is prety cool means you dont waste time spinning wheels, the scooby for my money looks nicer, the 3 plate clutch in the evo makes it sound like you have a mad elephant under the bonnet when you try to pull away which incidently it dont do easily as it has f***all tourqe under 3k the scooby is like a stock car to pullaway in,
this is an honnest assesment in MY oppinion and i have both on the drive,
overall i like the scooby more
Last edited by Badbird; 14 October 2010 at 11:51 AM.
14 October 2010, 12:37 PM
#43
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Be a shame to see that subaru car, it's an awesome car for someone though.
every day go to work car not a show queen that gets polished to death, car is for sale on PH just to make way for another project, but the spec is there,
its very drivable its prety quiet, its comfortable as stock new ages are,
it dont have loads of guages just a combo oil temp and presure guage, why do you need a boost guage? push the pedal and it does a fair impersonation of a starship... but its never undrivable but it is 600 /540 so if its driven stupidly it will bite and bite hard, if you overtake the bus on an average high st using full boost you will probably end up killing someone,
if you overtake the bus in a normal way it handles quiet normal its not a switch thats on or off it dosent need 3k rpm to pull away slipping the clutch we also have a 640/550 evo V111 and that is a pig compared to the scooby
its very drivable its prety quiet, its comfortable as stock new ages are,
it dont have loads of guages just a combo oil temp and presure guage, why do you need a boost guage? push the pedal and it does a fair impersonation of a starship... but its never undrivable but it is 600 /540 so if its driven stupidly it will bite and bite hard, if you overtake the bus on an average high st using full boost you will probably end up killing someone,
if you overtake the bus in a normal way it handles quiet normal its not a switch thats on or off it dosent need 3k rpm to pull away slipping the clutch we also have a 640/550 evo V111 and that is a pig compared to the scooby
14 October 2010, 12:49 PM
#44
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The biggest problem with PF discs and pads is that most people don't use them enough and they become a little wooden. In back to back tests performed by the MLR using a racing driver to test the PF pad and disc swap against AP and Alcon 6 pot kits, the PF discs and pads outperformed both the aftermarket kits for stopping distance.
Of course if you only drive it hard once and a while, by the time the brakes are back to there best (carbon friction material deposited on the disc) you've backed off and left thinking the brakes aren't as good as they might be. Put an AP 6 pot kit on with DS2500s and the bite is better a lot of the time if you don't use the brakes hard most of the time. Take the 2500s on track HARD and you may run into problems with uneven pad deposits.
Of course if you only drive it hard once and a while, by the time the brakes are back to there best (carbon friction material deposited on the disc) you've backed off and left thinking the brakes aren't as good as they might be. Put an AP 6 pot kit on with DS2500s and the bite is better a lot of the time if you don't use the brakes hard most of the time. Take the 2500s on track HARD and you may run into problems with uneven pad deposits.
14 October 2010, 12:51 PM
#45
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The biggest problem with PF discs and pads is that most people don't use them enough and they become a little wooden. In back to back tests performed by the MLR using a racing driver to test the PF pad and disc swap against AP and Alcon 6 pot kits, the PF discs and pads outperformed both the aftermarket kits for stopping distance.
Of course if you only drive it hard once and a while, by the time the brakes are back to there best (carbon friction material deposited on the disc) you've backed off and left thinking the brakes aren't as good as they might be. Put an AP 6 pot kit on with DS2500s and the bite is better a lot of the time if you don't use the brakes hard most of the time. Take the 2500s on track HARD and you may run into problems with uneven pad deposits.
Of course if you only drive it hard once and a while, by the time the brakes are back to there best (carbon friction material deposited on the disc) you've backed off and left thinking the brakes aren't as good as they might be. Put an AP 6 pot kit on with DS2500s and the bite is better a lot of the time if you don't use the brakes hard most of the time. Take the 2500s on track HARD and you may run into problems with uneven pad deposits.
tbh im not convinced using a race driver to test bralkes aimed at road use is the best way. yes you will get the best result capable by the brakes, but does that simulate a normal driver. most of use arn't driving gods lol
14 October 2010, 01:34 PM
#46
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you'd be able to overtake 2 buses & a pensioner quite easily with 500hp Interesting thread as I'd like to push my 321t a bit further too.
TX.
Edit - no one posted at 500 yet, best hp seems to be 464.
Last edited by Terminator X; 14 October 2010 at 01:43 PM.
14 October 2010, 01:44 PM
#47
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My MD321t made 464bhp on Zen Performances conservative Dastek Dyno on V- Power on a fully forged 2.5. I have been keeping an eye on the Scooby Clinic Billet topic and while the results for the rotated turbo's have been excellent I haven't seen much evidence of the standard position turbo's out performing the MD321 series.
TX.
14 October 2010, 03:15 PM
#52
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2.1 stroker with an S206 on Vpower and 10% meth.
2.1 stroker, Cosworth big valves and cams, ported heads on Vpower and 15% meth.
In the next fortnight I should have some figures for an SC46 on one of our 2.1 strokers too.
2.1 stroker, Cosworth big valves and cams, ported heads on Vpower and 15% meth.
In the next fortnight I should have some figures for an SC46 on one of our 2.1 strokers too.
14 October 2010, 03:28 PM
#55
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i think its dependednt on the car mate, i know my bugeye sti heads didnt respond as well as some same spec blob stis.
for example, mine on 10% meth only increased bhp by 10 but torque by 30l/b some blobs have increases of 40 of both bhp and torque..
for example, mine on 10% meth only increased bhp by 10 but torque by 30l/b some blobs have increases of 40 of both bhp and torque..
14 October 2010, 03:54 PM
#58
Iddy if your talking about 500 on a standard engine then it may be a risk to take however as you mentioned Banny's running over 500 with meth, Another member on here, cant remember his name was running over 540 with E85 for 2 years with regular trackdays!! Further more Simon aka JGM is running 450 on his standard STi 8 engine. Finally a mate of mine ran 470 on his UK STi 7 for 3 years & it only went up in flames due to a loose fuel line.
Overall i havent heard that many stories about the newage engines failing whilst running big power.
Personally i think you should aim for 450ish with a meth mix on the standard block & see how it goes before you go for your 2.1 setup. Really & truely mileage is nothing if its been serviced & maintained well.
MD321T will be ideal for you as thats what you wanted from the beginning. I myself will be using the same turbo in the near future on mine.
Overall i havent heard that many stories about the newage engines failing whilst running big power.
Personally i think you should aim for 450ish with a meth mix on the standard block & see how it goes before you go for your 2.1 setup. Really & truely mileage is nothing if its been serviced & maintained well.
MD321T will be ideal for you as thats what you wanted from the beginning. I myself will be using the same turbo in the near future on mine.
Last edited by KAS35RSTI; 14 October 2010 at 04:01 PM.
14 October 2010, 04:05 PM
#59
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