Best bolt-on turbo for 500bhp
13 May 2010, 09:35 PM
#31
Scooby Regular
Personally I think it is all in the preparation, using the right bits, a good OE block and experienced mapping. My engine has had it's pants pulled down and spanked for many miles. Apart from headgaskets after just over 9000 miles, it has never missed a beat in over 16,000 miles....... yet! lol
The long engine was totally stripped (which was over the top just for HG renewal, but I wanted piece of mind because of the abuse it had taken and was not prepared to take any chances). Block was measured, integrity checked and it was absolutely fine and re-used. New gaskets, line bored for crank, hone, new rings and bearings. Heads were stripped, checked and valves relapped and then the tall engine was reassembled. Job done.
In some ways I wished I had gone for a new block (linered or whatever, but not semi-open deck as is) at the time. Not because of the reliability at it's current VPower level, but because it is hindering me from going a lot further, with a much bigger turbo. It would be highly risky in my view to keep pushing the OE block with more power than I have achieved so far. When the engine was rebuilt I never envisaged in using the car for competition again or pushing the power up as much as it has been. Unfortunately I was overtaken by enthusiasim when the build was complete.
A bigger blower will (for realistic sake) require a new block. Whilst I have no problem spending the cash.... it's a pity I did not have this clear when it was rebuilt early last year, as it would of saved me doubling up on rebuilds!
The long engine was totally stripped (which was over the top just for HG renewal, but I wanted piece of mind because of the abuse it had taken and was not prepared to take any chances). Block was measured, integrity checked and it was absolutely fine and re-used. New gaskets, line bored for crank, hone, new rings and bearings. Heads were stripped, checked and valves relapped and then the tall engine was reassembled. Job done.
In some ways I wished I had gone for a new block (linered or whatever, but not semi-open deck as is) at the time. Not because of the reliability at it's current VPower level, but because it is hindering me from going a lot further, with a much bigger turbo. It would be highly risky in my view to keep pushing the OE block with more power than I have achieved so far. When the engine was rebuilt I never envisaged in using the car for competition again or pushing the power up as much as it has been. Unfortunately I was overtaken by enthusiasim when the build was complete.
A bigger blower will (for realistic sake) require a new block. Whilst I have no problem spending the cash.... it's a pity I did not have this clear when it was rebuilt early last year, as it would of saved me doubling up on rebuilds!
Last edited by Shaun; 13 May 2010 at 09:45 PM. Reason: added some s
13 May 2010, 09:43 PM
#32
Unmapped 12.4s @ 105
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
Posts: 11,776
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Personally I think it is all in the preparation, using the right bits, a good OE block and experienced mapping. My engine has had it's pants pulled down and spanked for many miles. Apart from headgaskets after just over 9000 miles, it has never missed a beat in over 16,000 miles....... yet! lol
The long engine was totally stripped (which was over the top just for HG renewal, but I wanted piece of mind because of the abuse it had taken and was not prepared to take any chances). Block was measured, integrity checked and it was absolutely fine and re-used. New gaskets, line bored for crank, hone, new rings and bearings. Heads were stripped, checked and valves relapped and then the tall engine was reassembled. Job done.
The long engine was totally stripped (which was over the top just for HG renewal, but I wanted piece of mind because of the abuse it had taken and was not prepared to take any chances). Block was measured, integrity checked and it was absolutely fine and re-used. New gaskets, line bored for crank, hone, new rings and bearings. Heads were stripped, checked and valves relapped and then the tall engine was reassembled. Job done.
13 May 2010, 09:51 PM
#33
Scooby Regular
It only needed HG's and I could of just done that, but Tracktive (at my request) totally stripped it and checked everything. I felt it was piece of mind to do so. Tracktive fully understood my stance.
Rings and bearings were changed simply because the engine was in bits, not because they needed to be changed. Simple rebuild fair and I don't like cutting corners on this car. But it was a flaming expensive HG replacement! Not as expensive as it could of been if something was amiss and it let go though. No point shutting the door after the horse has bolted.
Rings and bearings were changed simply because the engine was in bits, not because they needed to be changed. Simple rebuild fair and I don't like cutting corners on this car.
But it was a flaming expensive HG replacement! Not as expensive as it could of been if something was amiss and it let go though. No point shutting the door after the horse has bolted.
13 May 2010, 10:46 PM
#34
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northern Ireland. Part of the UK
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here we go again, another genuine thread and it turns into my car this my car that by Shaun.
Shaun your car is impressive but ffs do you have to keep banging on about it, as has been said your turbo is pretty much a lone result whereas other offerings regulary make the power or just short of it due to the supporting mods and we all know not all cars are equal even when the same components are used.
When i was looking for a turbo i looked on the AET website and it lacks detail to say the least, after phoning them and numerous promises of a return call i gave up!
Alan however did call me back as did Mark and i recieved several emails of both of them. I decided on the MD321T for my 400bhp need over the S206 as i didnt want to chop up my APS pipework or change my current exhaust downpipe.
So good luck with AET on customer service!
Shaun your car is impressive but ffs do you have to keep banging on about it, as has been said your turbo is pretty much a lone result whereas other offerings regulary make the power or just short of it due to the supporting mods and we all know not all cars are equal even when the same components are used.
When i was looking for a turbo i looked on the AET website and it lacks detail to say the least, after phoning them and numerous promises of a return call i gave up!
Alan however did call me back as did Mark and i recieved several emails of both of them. I decided on the MD321T for my 400bhp need over the S206 as i didnt want to chop up my APS pipework or change my current exhaust downpipe.
So good luck with AET on customer service!
Last edited by 71/200; 13 May 2010 at 10:48 PM.
14 May 2010, 01:30 PM
#39
Scooby Regular
All explained here -> http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimateb...=005505#000001
masterx81,
Obvious perhaps, but I post under "shaunee" on the above thread.
masterx81,
Obvious perhaps, but I post under "shaunee" on the above thread.
14 May 2010, 04:05 PM
#40
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Posts: 3,662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Being fair, it's the sort of thing you're only going to know about if you build, or more accurately trial assemble engines when you do build them.
Some of these Subaru blocks are shockingly out of true, and we spend a fair bit of time checking and rectifying these discrepancies.
We did have a linered block sent to us once, on the basis it was available to us to take advantage of. As soon as we bolted the stress plates on, we realised what a mistake that was! 3 thou adrift.. It took another rebore to sort it out.
The "line bore" issue concerns the main bearings and the fact that the crank centre line isn't always where you would wish it to be.
Some of these Subaru blocks are shockingly out of true, and we spend a fair bit of time checking and rectifying these discrepancies.
We did have a linered block sent to us once, on the basis it was available to us to take advantage of. As soon as we bolted the stress plates on, we realised what a mistake that was! 3 thou adrift.. It took another rebore to sort it out.
The "line bore" issue concerns the main bearings and the fact that the crank centre line isn't always where you would wish it to be.
Last edited by Alan Jeffery; 14 May 2010 at 04:16 PM. Reason: typo
14 May 2010, 08:08 PM
#42
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Asti - ITALY
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Being fair, it's the sort of thing you're only going to know about if you build, or more accurately trial assemble engines when you do build them.
Some of these Subaru blocks are shockingly out of true, and we spend a fair bit of time checking and rectifying these discrepancies.
We did have a linered block sent to us once, on the basis it was available to us to take advantage of. As soon as we bolted the stress plates on, we realised what a mistake that was! 3 thou adrift.. It took another rebore to sort it out.
The "line bore" issue concerns the main bearings and the fact that the crank centre line isn't always where you would wish it to be.
Some of these Subaru blocks are shockingly out of true, and we spend a fair bit of time checking and rectifying these discrepancies.
We did have a linered block sent to us once, on the basis it was available to us to take advantage of. As soon as we bolted the stress plates on, we realised what a mistake that was! 3 thou adrift.. It took another rebore to sort it out.
The "line bore" issue concerns the main bearings and the fact that the crank centre line isn't always where you would wish it to be.
And maybe torquing the main bearings we are actually distorting the cylinders or the deck surfaces...
3 thou are a lot!!!
Alloy engines....
When i've done the mods to my block and have some time, i'll try to bolt together my blocks and see how much it will distort...
14 May 2010, 09:58 PM
#43
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Posts: 3,662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For 'stress plates' you mean the torque plates used for honing? So torquing down the haed will distort the main bearing housings? and also the cylinders...
And maybe torquing the main bearings we are actually distorting the cylinders or the deck surfaces...
3 thou are a lot!!!
Alloy engines....
When i've done the mods to my block and have some time, i'll try to bolt together my blocks and see how much it will distort...
And maybe torquing the main bearings we are actually distorting the cylinders or the deck surfaces...
3 thou are a lot!!!
Alloy engines....
When i've done the mods to my block and have some time, i'll try to bolt together my blocks and see how much it will distort...
24 May 2010, 05:23 PM
#44
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Asti - ITALY
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And,maybe, going with a stock gt3076r and adopting the rotated setup, how it will spool on a stroker 2.12 with a .63 a/r exh housing?
Last edited by masterx81; 24 May 2010 at 05:50 PM.
09 June 2010, 09:58 AM
#46
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Asti - ITALY
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How do you consider the Owen development gt3076r (this: http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/pr...Id=15&subId=-1 ).
Someone have it?
Someone have it?
09 June 2010, 06:16 PM
#47
any more info on this please, boost, fuel, mods etc
This is a graph from a recent S206 install. As usual, DON'T try and interpret spool from it, as you can't from a dyno test. The power output speaks for itself!
This is from a 2.1 stroker, based on an open deck block!
He's tracked it, dragged it and flung it all over Cornish roads, so I think we can safely say that our view on these blocks is justified.
This is from a 2.1 stroker, based on an open deck block!
He's tracked it, dragged it and flung it all over Cornish roads, so I think we can safely say that our view on these blocks is justified.
09 June 2010, 08:45 PM
#48
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Posts: 3,662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
09 June 2010, 10:26 PM
#50
Scooby Regular
09 June 2010, 10:49 PM
#51
Impressive results but it still isnt a true bolt on turbo
The MD321V is my choice for true standard position on my 2.5. Has been on the car for 2 years now and nothing has tempted me away when I can get 2 bar at 3k and hold all the way to the redline. Makes decent power too
(running on Morrisons 2 year old pump E85)
The MD321V is my choice for true standard position on my 2.5. Has been on the car for 2 years now and nothing has tempted me away when I can get 2 bar at 3k and hold all the way to the redline. Makes decent power too
(running on Morrisons 2 year old pump E85)
09 June 2010, 10:49 PM
#52
Impressive results but it still isnt a true bolt on turbo
The MD321V is my choice for true standard position on my 2.5. Has been on the car for 2 years now and nothing has tempted me away when I can get 2 bar at 3k and hold all the way to the redline. Makes decent power too
(running on Morrisons 2 year old pump E85)
The MD321V is my choice for true standard position on my 2.5. Has been on the car for 2 years now and nothing has tempted me away when I can get 2 bar at 3k and hold all the way to the redline. Makes decent power too
(running on Morrisons 2 year old pump E85)
10 June 2010, 07:25 AM
#54
Scooby Regular
Impressive results but it still isnt a true bolt on turbo
The MD321V is my choice for true standard position on my 2.5. Has been on the car for 2 years now and nothing has tempted me away when I can get 2 bar at 3k and hold all the way to the redline. Makes decent power too
(running on Morrisons 2 year old pump E85)
The MD321V is my choice for true standard position on my 2.5. Has been on the car for 2 years now and nothing has tempted me away when I can get 2 bar at 3k and hold all the way to the redline. Makes decent power too
(running on Morrisons 2 year old pump E85)
Whilst the S206 might take a small amount of work to fit, it is £530 cheaper to buy than the V. In terms of performance, from the one offering I have seen in the flesh, there is little to choose between them.
The S206 can make a really neat install when people take the time to do it right, just look at Daone's to see what I mean. About half way down the page !
https://www.scoobynet.com/764865-v6-...ml#post9440891
10 June 2010, 08:10 AM
#55
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Asti - ITALY
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If i've well seen, the s206 is the only bolt-on turbo that mantain the antisurge feature of the original gt3076r core, but instead of using the huge inlet, thy fit in the smaller 76mm one. Plus has a nice 'barrier' in front of the antisurge for silencing it. Really well made!
10 June 2010, 08:19 AM
#56
Oh you aren't still banging on about that are you
Whilst the S206 might take a small amount of work to fit, it is £530 cheaper to buy than the V. In terms of performance, from the one offering I have seen in the flesh, there is little to choose between them.
The S206 can make a really neat install when people take the time to do it right, just look at Daone's to see what I mean. About half way down the page !
https://www.scoobynet.com/764865-v6-...ml#post9440891
Whilst the S206 might take a small amount of work to fit, it is £530 cheaper to buy than the V. In terms of performance, from the one offering I have seen in the flesh, there is little to choose between them.
The S206 can make a really neat install when people take the time to do it right, just look at Daone's to see what I mean. About half way down the page !
https://www.scoobynet.com/764865-v6-...ml#post9440891
I agree with you Martyn, it is a neat install
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
