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2008-2010 2.5ltr Engine Failures

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Old 09 January 2018, 04:54 PM
  #1861  
Tidgy
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Originally Posted by bioforger
Deny this! ,|,,

Yea a mate of a mate bought a new 2017 RS, engine failed with the coolant "issue", it had hydrolocked on its own coolant! so had it replaced under warranty, he asked ford for something back in writing to ask if that the new engine had been changed in anyway or some kind of assurance that it wouldn't fail again, they just sent him back to the dealer, dealer sent him back to ford lul, I told him, ford will never give him what he wanted in writing, and you guessed it, it has failed again! HG this time and the mechanic believes the block maybe warped too. Its back in again for its 2nd complete new engine. This car has never been tracked or launched and treated like a newborn baby from day one, its just a daily. 1st engine did 15K before it popped, 2nd engine failed after 5K, total joke. He does a lot of short stop/start journeys, this is why he's been so unlucky, as its an issue with cold/hot starts warping the head/block.
hasnt a guy on here beat that with 2 engine in 8k in an sti?
Old 09 January 2018, 04:57 PM
  #1862  
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
hasnt a guy on here beat that with 2 engine in 8k in an sti?
No idea, probably a bad map/user error
Old 09 January 2018, 05:18 PM
  #1863  
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
Sounds good Chris. Post some pics up if you get it!

The 2011 saloon is my favourite current shape STI.
Old 09 January 2018, 05:40 PM
  #1864  
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LOL
Old 09 January 2018, 05:47 PM
  #1865  
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Default 2010 wrxs

Hi guys iv have just got a 2010 Subaru Impreza WRXS on 35k with FSH an I keep hearing about complete engine failure on the 2.5 turbo model , is this correct an how can I STOP this from happening to me ? I hope iv not made a bad choice in buying this car as I love it so far
Old 09 January 2018, 05:48 PM
  #1866  
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Originally Posted by Skunny83
Hi guys iv have just got a 2010 Subaru Impreza WRXS on 35k with FSH an I keep hearing about complete engine failure on the 2.5 turbo model , is this correct an how can I STOP this from happening to me ? I hope iv not made a bad choice in buying this car as I love it so far
Don't take to heart everything you read on the net lad.
Old 09 January 2018, 05:52 PM
  #1867  
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Originally Posted by Skunny83
Hi guys iv have just got a 2010 Subaru Impreza WRXS on 35k with FSH an I keep hearing about complete engine failure on the 2.5 turbo model , is this correct an how can I STOP this from happening to me ? I hope iv not made a bad choice in buying this car as I love it so far
you havent made a bad choice in buying the car just have some funds in an account ready to fix IF it does happen.
Old 09 January 2018, 06:13 PM
  #1868  
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Having owned a MY11 STI 320r for the last 8 years and done 108k Miles in it and followed may forums I think a lot of the failures are down to bad fuel or not keeping an eye on the fluid levels. Mine has used oil from day one but always kept a keen eye on it serviced to the book and more importantly only ever run on shell v-power.
Old 09 January 2018, 06:18 PM
  #1869  
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Originally Posted by terzoscooby
Having owned a MY11 STI 320r for the last 8 years and done 108k Miles in it and followed may forums I think a lot of the failures are down to bad fuel or not keeping an eye on the fluid levels. Mine has used oil from day one but always kept a keen eye on it serviced to the book and more importantly only ever run on shell v-power.
Nice to know pal I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and cool down and warm up as it should be done , I hope to god this is a strong reliable car with hardly no issues in the future ha
Old 09 January 2018, 06:42 PM
  #1870  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
you havent made a bad choice in buying the car just have some funds in an account ready to fix IF it does happen.
Hope not mate , I'd be sooooo pissed if it happen to me . Not much luck with car over the years , any tips on how to prevent this from happening ?
Old 09 January 2018, 06:45 PM
  #1871  
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Originally Posted by Skunny83
Hope not mate , I'd be sooooo pissed if it happen to me . Not much luck with car over the years , any tips on how to prevent this from happening ?
As far as I'm aware there is no way of preventing it, if it's gonna go it will go. Once built (forged) the 2.5 is a stonking engine. Pistons and Head gaskets are the main issues
Old 09 January 2018, 06:47 PM
  #1872  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
As far as I'm aware there is no way of preventing it, if it's gonna go it will go. Once built (forged) the 2.5 is a stonking engine. Pistons and Head gaskets are the main issues
What kind of price am I looking at getting it forged if it ever happens ?
Old 09 January 2018, 06:55 PM
  #1873  
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Originally Posted by Skunny83
Hope not mate , I'd be sooooo pissed if it happen to me . Not much luck with car over the years , any tips on how to prevent this from happening ?
Don't redline it.
Old 09 January 2018, 07:02 PM
  #1874  
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Originally Posted by fpan
Don't redline it.
Lol I never do pal
Old 09 January 2018, 07:04 PM
  #1875  
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Originally Posted by Skunny83
What kind of price am I looking at getting it forged if it ever happens ?
Between £3k and £4.5k depending on spec if you wanted to push more power etc

Or look out for a used forged engine as long as it's history can be traced like who built it etc and what was done.

Also do your research on who you use to work on your car, plenty of so called specialists around that don't know their **** from their elbow.
Old 09 January 2018, 07:09 PM
  #1876  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
Between £3k and £4.5k depending on spec if you wanted to push more power etc

Or look out for a used forged engine as long as it's history can be traced like who built it etc and what was done.

Also do your research on who you use to work on your car, plenty of so called specialists around that don't know their **** from their elbow.
j
Thanks for the replys mate il look into it , very expensive job haha , touch wood it never happens lol
Old 09 January 2018, 07:53 PM
  #1877  
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Originally Posted by Skunny83
Hi guys iv have just got a 2010 Subaru Impreza WRXS on 35k with FSH an I keep hearing about complete engine failure on the 2.5 turbo model , is this correct an how can I STOP this from happening to me ? I hope iv not made a bad choice in buying this car as I love it so far
You bought a WRXS so less chance of it happening (lower CR, different pistons etc.) unless it's been modded and mapped for a lot more power than the original upgrade.
Old 09 January 2018, 08:08 PM
  #1878  
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i do find it amusing how people still seem to think one version is better than another (seems to be typically what they have funnily enough lol).

Simply put its pot luck, i know cars that have been treated like crap and have over 100k and i know cars that have been babied that have died in less than 10k.

Good servicing, run them on proper fuel and your doing as much as you can, beyond that its just pot luck.
Old 09 January 2018, 08:29 PM
  #1879  
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Originally Posted by Don Clark
You bought a WRXS so less chance of it happening (lower CR, different pistons etc.) unless it's been modded and mapped for a lot more power than the original upgrade.
Thanks for the reply , yes it's COMPLETLY standard with no mods at all , going to keep it that way an hope for the best that this nightmare never happens an well maintain it too
Old 08 March 2018, 01:07 PM
  #1880  
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Unhappy

Hi guys, new member here. Recently purchased my first Subaru, a 2008 STI PPP with about 87.000 miles and full service history. The car is always run on Shell V-Power. Doing some reading online I came across this thread and it's scaring me a lot. Having paid so much for the car it's now always on the back of my mind wondering if/when it's gonna go. Not to mention to forge it is about 5k which is money I currently don't have as I'm still paying the car.

This thread began with fairly new cars and brand new ones that failed after a few thousand miles.. Do you think that a 2008 that has lasted up to 87k miles without that issue might not have it at all or are all they prone to failure no matter the mileage that they have already endured?

I'm really questioning my decision now and it kinda prevents me from having fun with the car.. :\
Old 08 March 2018, 01:26 PM
  #1881  
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Hi and welcome.


In short yes, all the 2.5 engines have the potential to fail no matter how new or old as they all have the same potential part defects and build faults that cause the ringland and head gasket failures.


With that said, don't worry about it too much. I've owned 2.5 engine Subaru's for the last 10 years and haven't suffered a failure yet. The 2.5 Subaru engine makes for a lovely daily driver on the roads. I love them.


The factory ECU map won't help, so I would say at the least get your car mapped by a reputable tuner ensuring the boost is kept below 1.35bar max.


Other than that just enjoy it and tuck £3.5k away just in case!
Old 08 March 2018, 01:32 PM
  #1882  
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Hi and thanks for the info! If I'm correct the Prodrive Performance Pack includes an ECU map according to the PPP brochure: https://impreza.co/wp-content/upload...P-Brochure.pdf

Is this a good thing or bad for this specific issue?
Old 08 March 2018, 03:44 PM
  #1883  
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Originally Posted by thisisspara
Hi and thanks for the info! If I'm correct the Prodrive Performance Pack includes an ECU map according to the PPP brochure: https://impreza.co/wp-content/upload...P-Brochure.pdf

Is this a good thing or bad for this specific issue?
an air/oil seperator is something worth investing in also. have a google and have a search for the Perrin air/oil seperator. You don’t necesarily need to purchase a Perrin one but it will give you and insight into what they are all about.
Old 08 March 2018, 03:54 PM
  #1884  
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I wouldn't have said an oil separator was essential at all Matty to be honest.


With regards to the Prodrive map, in my opinion it's still a generic "one size fits all" type of ECU plug in map. It's not tailored to your car, your cars sensors, fuel grade, engine etc.


If it were my car and money I'd still get a professional to do a bespoke map.
Old 08 March 2018, 04:02 PM
  #1885  
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Originally Posted by thisisspara
Hi and thanks for the info! If I'm correct the Prodrive Performance Pack includes an ECU map according to the PPP brochure: https://impreza.co/wp-content/upload...P-Brochure.pdf

Is this a good thing or bad for this specific issue?

I know a guy his 330s on 90k took advice on here and got a remap wasn't long after it went bang, and that was by one of the best mappers in the country.

My advice it's not broke so don't fix it, just enjoy it there great cars.
Old 08 March 2018, 07:58 PM
  #1886  
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
I wouldn't have said an oil separator was essential at all Matty to be honest.


With regards to the Prodrive map, in my opinion it's still a generic "one size fits all" type of ECU plug in map. It's not tailored to your car, your cars sensors, fuel grade, engine etc.


If it were my car and money I'd still get a professional to do a bespoke map.
i defeinitely agree on a remap mate. An air/oil seperator is something I’m interested in definitely at some stage.
Old 09 March 2018, 08:48 AM
  #1887  
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Originally Posted by Matty81


i defeinitely agree on a remap mate. An air/oil seperator is something I’m interested in definitely at some stage.


Separator is by no means essential though. Better places to spend your money at early tuning stages in my opinion.
Old 09 March 2018, 08:50 AM
  #1888  
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What's the factual stats on the 2.5L failure rate?
Old 09 March 2018, 08:52 AM
  #1889  
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Originally Posted by Sarg400
I know a guy his 330s on 90k took advice on here and got a remap wasn't long after it went bang, and that was by one of the best mappers in the country.

My advice it's not broke so don't fix it, just enjoy it there great cars.

Do you know who the mapper was and what the peak boost was set to on the car? Was the car well serviced and cared for or driven like it was stolen?


I always monitor my peak boost, air fuel ratio, water temperature via an ECU diagnostic port sender and android app into my dash mounted display. It's well worth doing on these cars. It picked up that the change of my exhaust was making my car over boost and needed a remap before I got head lift and head gasket failure.
Old 09 March 2018, 08:52 AM
  #1890  
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Originally Posted by Matty81


i defeinitely agree on a remap mate. An air/oil seperator is something I’m interested in definitely at some stage.
Originally Posted by thisisspara
Hi guys, new member here. Recently purchased my first Subaru, a 2008 STI PPP with about 87.000 miles and full service history. The car is always run on Shell V-Power. Doing some reading online I came across this thread and it's scaring me a lot. Having paid so much for the car it's now always on the back of my mind wondering if/when it's gonna go. Not to mention to forge it is about 5k which is money I currently don't have as I'm still paying the car.

This thread began with fairly new cars and brand new ones that failed after a few thousand miles.. Do you think that a 2008 that has lasted up to 87k miles without that issue might not have it at all or are all they prone to failure no matter the mileage that they have already endured?

I'm really questioning my decision now and it kinda prevents me from having fun with the car.. :\
hello mate I bought my 330s at 38k thought the same as you can’t be that bad etc , failed at 67k , after speaking to a few professionals , ring land failure is inevitable , you will always have the people that try and stay positive , and the oh it’s never happens to me etc ,I’m just trying to be realistic here , if it’s not the ring lands it’s the head gaskets , the odds are majority of people who think their car is fine have ringland failure and just don’t know it yet , just ticking time bombs , if you worried you can’t afford the build of it goes wrong , my advise would be steer clear of the 2.5 sti and the ej257, Alan Jeffries told me he has never taken a 2.5 apart that doesn’t have a broken ringland even cars thought to be fine ,,
my car was bone stock too , there are some things would can do to prevent it tho ,, go wot at low rpm ie below 4K puts huge amount of strain on the pistons ,, don’t bolt on anything with out a remap ,,, get a retune this way they can check the knock and afrs are correct , don’t go more than 2psi over standard boost pressure , and get an air oil separator , the 2.5 is quite sucky lol and oil in the inlet will cause detonation so a must for standard engine ,, and also the standard turbos like to crack I had mine changed at 67k because of a crack by the wastegate

Last edited by kershaw-330s; 09 March 2018 at 09:03 AM.


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