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Old 21 April 2010, 02:07 PM
  #31  
bigsinky
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guys,

and engine can calve itself at anytime. an old tired engine that you are asking to run out of spec. (220hp versus 330hp) is going to be more stressed. Those of us who have been down the forged engine route know that this is a possibility at anytime.

Having had 2 forged engines go on me i feel for you. best just bite the bullet and start saving. buying the car is not the problem, the bitch is the upkeep.
Old 21 April 2010, 03:23 PM
  #32  
Westwood2006
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Originally Posted by bigsinky
guys, buying the car is not the problem, the bitch is the upkeep.
Yeah +1. I have had 2 immaculately maintained (standard internal) STI's rattle in the same way as yours. I'll put a fiver on that noise being a big end.

It's a bitch for sure. First one I sold in disgust.... Second I 2.5 forged and etc.

API Dave will see you right... Build your dream car.
Old 21 April 2010, 06:49 PM
  #33  
2.5STI
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You've had two forged engines go??? that's a little worrying if so. I don't want to fork out on a forged engine If it's going to blow as well?

I would want it to be bulletproof if I'm going to fork out otherwise what's the point?
Old 21 April 2010, 06:59 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bigsinky
guys,

and engine can calve itself at anytime. an old tired engine that you are asking to run out of spec. (220hp versus 330hp) is going to be more stressed.
Is there an echo in here?
Old 21 April 2010, 07:16 PM
  #35  
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a proper built forged engine and mapped right will not let you down as long as you dont let the engine down i.e oil changes every 3000-4000 miles keep an eye on the water, change your plugs at leats once a year if running good power, if you get a weird problems dont just leave it for weeks on end get it seen to asap but saying that even a forged engine want last for ever with good power running through it i had mine done and love it but allways think when might it go pop
Old 21 April 2010, 09:05 PM
  #36  
2.5STI
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i dont wana think what the bills going to be.

I really would like to know the cause of it.

in high boost mode it was 1.5bar maybe that was to much for the uk engine?

what do the vf43s push out normally?

if the engine blows what damage can it do?

is my uk block useless for taking a forged build and being strong?

what the best cheapest route to get my uk engine capible of 400bhp safetly?
Old 21 April 2010, 09:46 PM
  #37  
bobby chang
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bhp figure is not everything, it may be good for drag race like 1/4 mile run, but a good balance and well handling's car can outrun a higher power car both on the road & track, a standard impreza already has these basic ingredient, combine with a healthy mapped engine and others improvement, I say it will make a good daily drive with less to worry and long lasting.
Old 21 April 2010, 09:47 PM
  #38  
LegacySTi
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i dont wana think what the bills going to be. AS SAID ABOVE ITS EASY BUY THESE CARS BUT NEED TO ACCEPT THAT THERE IS AND WILL BE UPKEEP COST INVOLVED AND SOMETIMES THATS NOT ALWAYS SERVICING ONLY.

I really would like to know the cause of it. SOUNDS YOUR STILL AFTER SOMEONE TO BLAME. AS THE GUYS HAVE SAID ABOVE ITS MORE THEN LIKELY JUST A TIRED 12 YEAR OLD ENGINE THAT WITH THE STRESS OF THE EXTRA POWER JUST ACCELERATED THE FAIL.

in high boost mode it was 1.5bar maybe that was to much for the uk engine? AGAIN REFLECTS LOOKING TO BLAME AS ABOVE AT BOB OR API. A SOUND GOOD CONDITION ENGINE ALL ABOVE MODS WERE FULLY SAFE. NEAITHER API NOR MAPPER CAN SEE THE CONDITION OF SHORT MOTOR I.E. ENGINE BEARINGS WITHOUT STRIPPING AND VISUALLY LOOKING. SO IF MOTOR IS QUIET CAN ONLY ASSUME ALL IS WELL AND HEALTHY.

what do the vf43s push out normally?
BOOST WISE WOULD NORMALLY BE 1.4-1.5 AREA. POWER WQISE DEPENDS ON MODS SO WIDE VARY THERE. WITH YOURS ABOUT 330BHP

if the engine blows what damage can it do?
BLOW NORMALLY JUST WORD SAID FOR ENGINE FAILURE WEATHER BIG END OR PISTON DET FAILURE. ASSUMING YOU MEAN IF YOU KEEP DRIVING WAT DAMAGE CAN IT DO. ANSWER IS CONROD OUT THROUGH SHORT BLOCK CASING. POSSIBLE BIN JOB OF HEADS. METAL DEBRIS RUNNING ABOUT ENGINE EVERYTIME YOU START OR DRIVE POSSIBILY SCORING YOUR CAMS/ ETC.

is my uk block useless for taking a forged build and being strong?
NO UK BLOCK IS OPEN DECK SAME AS STI. SO CAN BUILD OF THIS NO PROB DEPENDING POWER OUTPUT YOUR AIMING FOR.

what the best cheapest route to get my uk engine capible of 400bhp safetly?
CHEAPEST AND SAFEST DOESN'T ALWAYS GO HAND IN HAND.



..........
Old 21 April 2010, 10:36 PM
  #39  
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Strong, Fast, Cheap- Choose 2
Old 22 April 2010, 12:01 PM
  #40  
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Cheapest

There's nothing cheap about impreza engine builds.
Old 22 April 2010, 12:56 PM
  #41  
biggi
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Originally Posted by LegacySTi
i dont wana think what the bills going to be. AS SAID ABOVE ITS EASY BUY THESE CARS BUT NEED TO ACCEPT THAT THERE IS AND WILL BE UPKEEP COST INVOLVED AND SOMETIMES THATS NOT ALWAYS SERVICING ONLY.

I really would like to know the cause of it. SOUNDS YOUR STILL AFTER SOMEONE TO BLAME. AS THE GUYS HAVE SAID ABOVE ITS MORE THEN LIKELY JUST A TIRED 12 YEAR OLD ENGINE THAT WITH THE STRESS OF THE EXTRA POWER JUST ACCELERATED THE FAIL.

in high boost mode it was 1.5bar maybe that was to much for the uk engine? AGAIN REFLECTS LOOKING TO BLAME AS ABOVE AT BOB OR API. A SOUND GOOD CONDITION ENGINE ALL ABOVE MODS WERE FULLY SAFE. NEAITHER API NOR MAPPER CAN SEE THE CONDITION OF SHORT MOTOR I.E. ENGINE BEARINGS WITHOUT STRIPPING AND VISUALLY LOOKING. SO IF MOTOR IS QUIET CAN ONLY ASSUME ALL IS WELL AND HEALTHY.

what do the vf43s push out normally?
BOOST WISE WOULD NORMALLY BE 1.4-1.5 AREA. POWER WQISE DEPENDS ON MODS SO WIDE VARY THERE. WITH YOURS ABOUT 330BHP

if the engine blows what damage can it do?
BLOW NORMALLY JUST WORD SAID FOR ENGINE FAILURE WEATHER BIG END OR PISTON DET FAILURE. ASSUMING YOU MEAN IF YOU KEEP DRIVING WAT DAMAGE CAN IT DO. ANSWER IS CONROD OUT THROUGH SHORT BLOCK CASING. POSSIBLE BIN JOB OF HEADS. METAL DEBRIS RUNNING ABOUT ENGINE EVERYTIME YOU START OR DRIVE POSSIBILY SCORING YOUR CAMS/ ETC.

is my uk block useless for taking a forged build and being strong?
NO UK BLOCK IS OPEN DECK SAME AS STI. SO CAN BUILD OF THIS NO PROB DEPENDING POWER OUTPUT YOUR AIMING FOR.

what the best cheapest route to get my uk engine capible of 400bhp safetly?
CHEAPEST AND SAFEST DOESN'T ALWAYS GO HAND IN HAND.



..........
Sound like you are looking for an argument, the guy was looking for a solution not an argument,

1, I am not knocking any1 but were u stood next to Bob when the new map was applied, ermmm no

2, where you there when the new parts where fitted, ermmm no

3, Do you even know what parts where fitted, make, model and manufacturer, ermm a big fat noooooooo!!!

I think you should keep opinions like this to yourself, we are here to help and assist each other.

I will not respond to any of your post on this link as your post's are completely pointless. This also relates to your first post!!!!

Peace!!!!!
Old 22 April 2010, 01:28 PM
  #42  
scooby1929
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Everyone is entitled to their opinion!! The bottom line is that if you tune your Subaru then you have to be prepared to face the music and expense if things go wrong on top of just servicing your machine! These cars when they left the factory WRX say 220 bhp and STI 265 bhp were that power for a reason and when you have a car thats 10 years old and tune it to put out alot more power then it is goin to shorten its life drastically.

Also dont foget if you do get this new forged engine you are going to have to upgrade gearbox, clutch , driveshafts etc etc

More power usually means alot more money. Dont do it if you cant afford it.

Last edited by scooby1929; 22 April 2010 at 01:30 PM.
Old 22 April 2010, 02:20 PM
  #43  
2.5STI
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Thanks guys very true I was just ignoring legacys post as he obviously is getting the wrong end of the stick and getting himself irate for some reason.

bob rawle has sent me a very good email and I must say he has covered every aspect of the remap technicly and I will say he is very professional and I will definetly be using him again when I get things sorted.

I didn't come on here to moan or complain I posted as I hadn't had any replys and wanted people with experience in this matter to cast there advice.
Old 22 April 2010, 02:20 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by scooby1929
Everyone is entitled to their opinion!! The bottom line is that if you tune your Subaru then you have to be prepared to face the music and expense if things go wrong on top of just servicing your machine! These cars when they left the factory WRX say 220 bhp and STI 265 bhp were that power for a reason and when you have a car thats 10 years old and tune it to put out alot more power then it is goin to shorten its life drastically.

Also dont foget if you do get this new forged engine you are going to have to upgrade gearbox, clutch , driveshafts etc etc

More power usually means alot more money. Dont do it if you cant afford it.
wise words.

a lot of people come on here asking why this has gone or that has busted. they see nothing wrong with pushing 330 hp out of an engine designed for 220 hp. subaru spent millions developing this engine and have decided that the power of 220 is suitable based on components used and your average driver. it's crappy luck if a new forged engine calves itself on you but there are no guaruntees. you pays your money you cross your fingers. a sound engine builder who has built numerous engines will know what is right for you and your budget.
Old 22 April 2010, 02:25 PM
  #45  
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Thanks guys very true I was just ignoring legacys post as he obviously is getting the wrong end of the stick and getting himself irate for some reason.

bob rawle has sent me a very good email and I must say he has covered every aspect of the remap technicly and I will say he is very professional and I will definetly be using him again when I get things sorted.

I didn't come on here to moan or complain I posted as I hadn't had any replys and wanted people with experience in this matter to cast there advice.
Old 22 April 2010, 02:26 PM
  #46  
bigsinky
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Originally Posted by 2.5STI
You've had two forged engines go??? that's a little worrying if so. I don't want to fork out on a forged engine If it's going to blow as well?

I would want it to be bulletproof if I'm going to fork out otherwise what's the point?
my forged engines were 500hp and about 600hp. both my fault. 1st one at shakespeake county raceway. revved out in fourth, should have changed to 5th, i changed into 3rd.

2nd was racing at Jurby in the isle of man. last race of the day. i had run the fastest car of the day. 3 seconds faster than the best IOM car. he had a 3 second start, i was reeling him in before the 1/4 mile line and the engine threw a leg out of bed.

also had head gasket blow at SSO 2008. coasted over the quarter @ 120
Old 22 April 2010, 03:39 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by bigsinky
my forged engines were 500hp and about 600hp. both my fault. 1st one at shakespeake county raceway. revved out in fourth, should have changed to 5th, i changed into 3rd.

Yep, that'll do it! "Goodbye cruel rod?"

All that having forged components will mean under those circumstance is that what gets projected out of the block might look 'slightly' better than were the parts to have been non-forged. Its still gonna be what's technically known as a "right f*cking mess!"

I've own a 340bhp UK MY99, which I had taken up from the original 215bhp by API and Bob. It's been running at about this level for 4 years and hasn't missed a beat. It was/still is a low mileage car (on 55k now) and sees the red line, but is very well looked after.

I knew it was a calculated risk and I knew what the bill will be if it lets go. Frankly I thought the gearbox would have thrown a fit by now, but it seems to be holding up just fine.

As said above, judging by the number that have gotten UK cars to this level, it would seem that the cars are up for it, but this does assume that

a) It's a fit car to start with
b) It's all done and mapped to the highest standard and RIGHT spec - as at these much higher levels the car will be much less tolerant of things not runing right/shortcuts.

If APi and Bob did the work, 'a' will be your problem.
Old 22 April 2010, 03:54 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 2.5STI
Thanks guys very true I was just ignoring legacys post as he obviously is getting the wrong end of the stick and getting himself irate for some reason.

bob rawle has sent me a very good email and I must say he has covered every aspect of the remap technicly and I will say he is very professional and I will definetly be using him again when I get things sorted.

I didn't come on here to moan or complain I posted as I hadn't had any replys and wanted people with experience in this matter to cast there advice.
Glad you got a good respons bud.
Good luck with the prob.
Old 22 April 2010, 04:35 PM
  #49  
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The same thing happened to my uk classic. I would think very carefully about your next move. Me personally, I would strongly consider stripping the car for parts & selling them on here, then get a newer car with less mileage or the forged engine already done. My old car was running 470bhp, cost a fortune to build & sold for 7k (I did sell it cheap, but I priced to sell) I now have an 06 Hawkeye & even with only 280 bhp, it is a better car in nearly every way than my classic. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
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