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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 08:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by UK300 PRODRIVE
This is my thoughts, but then i dont think they have an internal fuse, do they?? I think they reply on a 40amp fuse which is generally on a Shower fuse spare somewhere outside the bathroom, normally situated on the landing or in some case near the fusebox/consumer unit.

The element could probably be replaced for £20 at a guess, but then if you shower was nstalled when you bought the house and it is fitted 'over' the tiles then id bin it and start over.

Can't beat a mixer shower running of a good Combi/Condensing boiler.

My eyes i am blinded
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 08:58 PM
  #32  
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lisa - sounds like the unit's plain n simple knackered to be honest. Just had to replace my parents one for them because that one packed up in a similar way to yours. Don't know if they're serviceable or not as I didn't bother looking (just sneaked the new one through the company books instead lol) but they are very easy to fit / replace. The electric part of it is no worse than wiring a plug up, the water side of it is a single pressure-fitment type and the units are held up with 3 or 4 screws. If you get a new one of the same make there's a fair chance that all the screw holes, water pipe access and power cable entries will line up too
My parents one only took me an hour to do n that included dragging my tools in and out the house and cleaning up too
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:01 PM
  #33  
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Most showers have a 2 stage thermal cutout disc on top of the element.

The 1st stage is a auto reset which cuts out if the tank exceeds a certain temperature, and cuts back in when it cools down. When you turn the shower off you can normaly hear the click of the stat due to the hot water sitting in the tank and temperature climbing about above the preset level.

The 2nd stage is normally operated around 10 degrees C higher than the 1st stage and can only be reset by removing it and pressing the button in (you will feel and hear it click back in). The 2nd stage is a back-up safety cutout and can cut in if there was a sudden drop in water pressure causing the tank temp to rise rapidly.

If the element itself has gone faulty then you would normally find that the MCB/RCD would trip.

Another common problem is ..... if the lower water pressure switch is a rubber diaphram type and you have hard water, it can scale up and not operate the pressure switch. If something had burnt out inside you would likely have smelt it.

If it suddenly goes cold, the thermal disc is the 1st thing to check.

Showers are really easy to fix, but the spares can be expensive and hard to source. Getting a new special offer £60 Triton from your local DIY store is often a cheaper fix.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #34  
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Scoobymad knows what he is talking about so does coupe
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #35  
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Agree with scoobymad. For the 80 notes it could cost for a new one you might be a s well just buyin one and fitting it yourself. the main thing is to make sure the water pipe comes in on the same side.

5t.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #36  
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Somehow I would feel a bit twitched standing under an electric shower!

Les
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