How good is the P1?
#31
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I love my supercar..er I mean P1, having owned UK turbos before it the difference was immense.
I have driven numerous Type R's and find them too raw for my liking.
Each to their own, test drive a few and see what suits.
I have driven numerous Type R's and find them too raw for my liking.
Each to their own, test drive a few and see what suits.
#32
is this the standard bodykit ? http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3056/...7ea4fe070c.jpg. Looks quite low diffrent side skirts ? also you cant really see the rear bumper too much but looks diffrent aswell. I love the P1
#33
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Yes. The other, more common option, is the P-WRC1 alloys in anthracite (nicer IMO), rather than gold. Also, you can have "P1 IMPREZA" branded covers instead of the foglights (or are they projector-style spots?).
Side skirts + rear 1/4 skirts are OEM and same shape as the earliest 1992 cars (unchanged up til Aug 2000) - not bespoke.
Rear bumper is OEM MY97-00 'smooth' one - not bespoke.
Front bumper is OEM MY99/00 - not bespoke.
Bonnet, front grille, front crystal lights set as per OEM MY99/00 - not bespoke.
Rear light clusters are OEM with the amber indicators, as for all UK cars - not bespoke.
Front bumper's splitter was specially designed by Peter Stevens for Prodrive - bespoke.
Only the modular top half of the rear wing (but otherwise a std. OEM STi v.5/6 bottom half) was specially designed by P.S. for Prodrive - bespoke.
Specially designed oval brushed-metal effect "P1" oval wing badges/bootlid rectangular lozenge badge - bespoke
Side skirts + rear 1/4 skirts are OEM and same shape as the earliest 1992 cars (unchanged up til Aug 2000) - not bespoke.
Rear bumper is OEM MY97-00 'smooth' one - not bespoke.
Front bumper is OEM MY99/00 - not bespoke.
Bonnet, front grille, front crystal lights set as per OEM MY99/00 - not bespoke.
Rear light clusters are OEM with the amber indicators, as for all UK cars - not bespoke.
Front bumper's splitter was specially designed by Peter Stevens for Prodrive - bespoke.
Only the modular top half of the rear wing (but otherwise a std. OEM STi v.5/6 bottom half) was specially designed by P.S. for Prodrive - bespoke.
Specially designed oval brushed-metal effect "P1" oval wing badges/bootlid rectangular lozenge badge - bespoke
Last edited by joz8968; 09 January 2010 at 06:12 PM.
#34
got another question ( thanks for all the help so far ). How much power can the 2.0L block take. Im not meaning standard, something like a fully forged block, new bearings, gaskets etc and everything else basically a original P1 block 2.0 litre but built to a race spec. What could it handle ? 500bhp ? 600 ? More ?
#35
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There's nothing 'special' or different about the block in the P1 - it's just a regular MY99/00 STi v.5/6 one. But not sure if it's ODB, CDB or SCDB??
Even if it's the 'weakest' ODB, and if fully rebuilt with some of the best forged internals, then it's potentially good for well over 500bhp. A CDB is for 600bhp and much more, etc...
Even if it's the 'weakest' ODB, and if fully rebuilt with some of the best forged internals, then it's potentially good for well over 500bhp. A CDB is for 600bhp and much more, etc...
Last edited by joz8968; 10 January 2010 at 10:07 PM.
#36
So a fully rebuilt engine should be good for 600 + bhp still on 2 litre yeah ?
How much would it cost to get the engine capable of that power just for once ive got the cash i can gradually upgrade turbo etc but just for the engine, what 3? 4 K ?
How much would it cost to get the engine capable of that power just for once ive got the cash i can gradually upgrade turbo etc but just for the engine, what 3? 4 K ?
#37
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Don't know mate.
I'll take a stab in the dark and say that a fully assembled long engine i.e. block/heads/HGs/pistons/rods/crank/bearings/water pump/stat/oil pump/sump is gonna be between 5-10k - depending on what brands you choose...
Then you've got all the appropriate uprated ancilliaries/supporting mods on top - another 5-10k I reckon. If you factor in garage fitting/troubleshooting labour costs and mapping, etc, I expect a 600bhp motor's gonna stand you in for between 20 and 40k!!! Not sure - just a guess(?)
Don't forget you'll need the OEM 6-sp 'box or the PPG full gear set, uprated driveshafts are a good idea, etc, etc. It's never ending...
Some members have done it - just wait for 'em to post up. dynamix and Mad Hammer, to name but two, run 600+ motors...
I'll take a stab in the dark and say that a fully assembled long engine i.e. block/heads/HGs/pistons/rods/crank/bearings/water pump/stat/oil pump/sump is gonna be between 5-10k - depending on what brands you choose...
Then you've got all the appropriate uprated ancilliaries/supporting mods on top - another 5-10k I reckon. If you factor in garage fitting/troubleshooting labour costs and mapping, etc, I expect a 600bhp motor's gonna stand you in for between 20 and 40k!!! Not sure - just a guess(?)
Don't forget you'll need the OEM 6-sp 'box or the PPG full gear set, uprated driveshafts are a good idea, etc, etc. It's never ending...
Some members have done it - just wait for 'em to post up. dynamix and Mad Hammer, to name but two, run 600+ motors...
Last edited by joz8968; 10 January 2010 at 11:09 PM.
#38
Thanks for the reply mate . Was just thinking about keeping it the 2L engine as it is a rally car after all . Its either that or was thinking about the 3.6 6 cylinder subaru engine ? or is that a bad idea Does it even fit in anyone know?
#40
For some reason im wanting to stick with the 2.0 or go for the big 6 cylinder or is the 2.5 stroker a lot better than the standard 2.0?
How would i know if the 6 cylinder would fit ? Just buy measurements or is it a bit more complicated than that
How would i know if the 6 cylinder would fit ? Just buy measurements or is it a bit more complicated than that
#41
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2.5 has different - some real, some perceived - power/torque delivery characteristics than 2.0.
For any given power level, the 2.5 will produce a fair bit more torque than the 2.0. This gives notable extra low-down grunt/response when planting the throttle, when compared to the 2.0. This has the effect of perceiving the 2.0 as being more 'revvy'; the 2.5 more 'lazy'. But that said, some 2.5 owners feel the 2.5 is almost/just as eager as the 2.0 in piling on the revs, so those particular owners love it, as they feel they get the best of all worlds! Some other 2.5 owners, however, say they much prefer the 2.0's more manic nature and the way it makes its power/torque further up the rev range...
With only ever owning/experiencing 2.0s, I can't personally confirm nor deny...
Forget the flat-6 IMO (but I don't wanna put you off, if that's some kind of 'dream'/Holy Grail of yours... lol)
For any given power level, the 2.5 will produce a fair bit more torque than the 2.0. This gives notable extra low-down grunt/response when planting the throttle, when compared to the 2.0. This has the effect of perceiving the 2.0 as being more 'revvy'; the 2.5 more 'lazy'. But that said, some 2.5 owners feel the 2.5 is almost/just as eager as the 2.0 in piling on the revs, so those particular owners love it, as they feel they get the best of all worlds! Some other 2.5 owners, however, say they much prefer the 2.0's more manic nature and the way it makes its power/torque further up the rev range...
With only ever owning/experiencing 2.0s, I can't personally confirm nor deny...
Forget the flat-6 IMO (but I don't wanna put you off, if that's some kind of 'dream'/Holy Grail of yours... lol)
Last edited by joz8968; 11 January 2010 at 02:11 AM.
#42
Former Sponsor
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Don't know mate.
I'll take a stab in the dark and say that a fully assembled long engine i.e. block/heads/HGs/pistons/rods/crank/bearings/water pump/stat/oil pump/sump is gonna be between 5-10k - depending on what brands you choose...
Then you've got all the appropriate uprated ancilliaries/supporting mods on top - another 5-10k I reckon. If you factor in garage fitting/troubleshooting labour costs and mapping, etc, I expect a 600bhp motor's gonna stand you in for between 20 and 40k!!! Not sure - just a guess(?)
Don't forget you'll need the OEM 6-sp 'box or the PPG full gear set, uprated driveshafts are a good idea, etc, etc. It's never ending...
Some members have done it - just wait for 'em to post up. dynamix and Mad Hammer, to name but two, run 600+ motors...
I'll take a stab in the dark and say that a fully assembled long engine i.e. block/heads/HGs/pistons/rods/crank/bearings/water pump/stat/oil pump/sump is gonna be between 5-10k - depending on what brands you choose...
Then you've got all the appropriate uprated ancilliaries/supporting mods on top - another 5-10k I reckon. If you factor in garage fitting/troubleshooting labour costs and mapping, etc, I expect a 600bhp motor's gonna stand you in for between 20 and 40k!!! Not sure - just a guess(?)
Don't forget you'll need the OEM 6-sp 'box or the PPG full gear set, uprated driveshafts are a good idea, etc, etc. It's never ending...
Some members have done it - just wait for 'em to post up. dynamix and Mad Hammer, to name but two, run 600+ motors...
#46
2.5 has different - some real, some perceived - power/torque delivery characteristics than 2.0.
For any given power level, the 2.5 will produce a fair bit more torque than the 2.0. This gives notable extra low-down grunt/response when planting the throttle, when compared to the 2.0. This has the effect of perceiving the 2.0 as being more 'revvy'; the 2.5 more 'lazy'. But that said, some 2.5 owners feel the 2.5 is almost/just as eager as the 2.0 in piling on the revs, so those particular owners love it, as they feel they get the best of all worlds! Some other 2.5 owners, however, say they much prefer the 2.0's more manic nature and the way it makes its power/torque further up the rev range...
With only ever owning/experiencing 2.0s, I can't personally confirm nor deny...
Forget the flat-6 IMO (but I don't wanna put you off, if that's some kind of 'dream'/Holy Grail of yours... lol)
For any given power level, the 2.5 will produce a fair bit more torque than the 2.0. This gives notable extra low-down grunt/response when planting the throttle, when compared to the 2.0. This has the effect of perceiving the 2.0 as being more 'revvy'; the 2.5 more 'lazy'. But that said, some 2.5 owners feel the 2.5 is almost/just as eager as the 2.0 in piling on the revs, so those particular owners love it, as they feel they get the best of all worlds! Some other 2.5 owners, however, say they much prefer the 2.0's more manic nature and the way it makes its power/torque further up the rev range...
With only ever owning/experiencing 2.0s, I can't personally confirm nor deny...
Forget the flat-6 IMO (but I don't wanna put you off, if that's some kind of 'dream'/Holy Grail of yours... lol)
#47
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I've had an M5, a P1 and now back to a classic turbo.
M5 was great on the motorway but too big to drive hard on A roads.
P1 was remapped to 340bhp so it was quick but the suspension was too hard for my liking. Lovely car but I was always waiting on the bottom end going so I couldnt enjoy it. I must have wasted $$$ in this weather letting it heat up on tick over.
The large doors are a problem in multi storeys but not too bad to put the kids in and out as long as there in booster seats.
I'm back to a 4 door 330bhp classic with softer suspension, great power, lower insurance and enough room for the kids to jump in and out.
As for supercar status, I'd have challenged ANY supercar on my A roads in a 340bhp P1 with 8 pots.
M5 was great on the motorway but too big to drive hard on A roads.
P1 was remapped to 340bhp so it was quick but the suspension was too hard for my liking. Lovely car but I was always waiting on the bottom end going so I couldnt enjoy it. I must have wasted $$$ in this weather letting it heat up on tick over.
The large doors are a problem in multi storeys but not too bad to put the kids in and out as long as there in booster seats.
I'm back to a 4 door 330bhp classic with softer suspension, great power, lower insurance and enough room for the kids to jump in and out.
As for supercar status, I'd have challenged ANY supercar on my A roads in a 340bhp P1 with 8 pots.
#48
would a fully forged engine help to stop the bottom end going? I had e-mailed a tuner about getting more power from the P1 and he sayed for around 350 BHP id need a decat, front mounted intercooler, remap: did you just have yours remapped ?
#50
I would need a bigger turbo to reach 350 bhp ? I thought a decat, FMIC and remap should be able to reach that will it not ?
I was looking for around the 600 bhp mark ( over a period of time )so i would imagine id need a fully forged 2.0L for that.
Just out of intrest does anyone know if the rear bumper on the 22b and P1 the same ?
I was looking for around the 600 bhp mark ( over a period of time )so i would imagine id need a fully forged 2.0L for that.
Just out of intrest does anyone know if the rear bumper on the 22b and P1 the same ?
#52
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P1 and 22B rear bumpers are very different.
I don't neccesarily think you will need a bigger turbo (I maybe wrong here...) but new intercooler and possibly injectors would be required to achieve 340bhp safely??
Mine is sitting at a "safe" 327bhp on standard engine and I was told that is the best you can really achieve without completely ruining any existing reliability....
I don't neccesarily think you will need a bigger turbo (I maybe wrong here...) but new intercooler and possibly injectors would be required to achieve 340bhp safely??
Mine is sitting at a "safe" 327bhp on standard engine and I was told that is the best you can really achieve without completely ruining any existing reliability....
#54
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DCCD not compatable with ABS so not used as ABS was deemed as required.
'Supercar' was due to driveby noise regs, the normal test is carried out in 2nd and 3rd gears and the result averaged but there is a 'derogation' known in the trade as the "Ferrari get out" that if a car was above a certain power to weight ratio and could accelerate from 50kph over 15meters (length of noise test) to a certain speed (that I can't recall) it only had to be tested in 3rd, as an aside a Rover 820turbo managed the acceleration but not the power/weight ratio!
Impreza P1 was EVO magazine's best handling 'regular' car of '00 as I recall although it lost out to a Ferrari (456 or 550 - have to check when I'm home) in a finale.
Simon
'Supercar' was due to driveby noise regs, the normal test is carried out in 2nd and 3rd gears and the result averaged but there is a 'derogation' known in the trade as the "Ferrari get out" that if a car was above a certain power to weight ratio and could accelerate from 50kph over 15meters (length of noise test) to a certain speed (that I can't recall) it only had to be tested in 3rd, as an aside a Rover 820turbo managed the acceleration but not the power/weight ratio!
Impreza P1 was EVO magazine's best handling 'regular' car of '00 as I recall although it lost out to a Ferrari (456 or 550 - have to check when I'm home) in a finale.
Simon
#55
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Been speaking to API ADvid about turbo choice for myself and my next mods and I enquired about the range of VF turbos. He said even the later, 'bigger' VF43 will struggle to make 350bhp. It'll be absolutely blowing its last - probably just loads of hot air! - if does manage it.
Agree with Duncan - the VF28/29 are c.320 turbos...
Agree with Duncan - the VF28/29 are c.320 turbos...
Last edited by joz8968; 12 January 2010 at 11:22 AM.
#57
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Been speaking to API ADvid about turbo choice for myself and my next mods and I enquired about the range of VF turbos. He said even the later, 'bigger' VF43 will struggle to make 350bhp. It'll be absolutely blowing its last - probably just loads of hot air! - if does manage it.
Agree with Duncan - the VF28/29 are c.320 turbos...
Agree with Duncan - the VF28/29 are c.320 turbos...
Seen it lots of times, on mine and on many other cars...
Also seen a VF43 make 370bhp on a classic mapped by Andy F. It is a great turbo in my opinion.
#58
There's nothing 'special' or different about the block in the P1 - it's just a regular MY99/00 STi v.5/6 one. But not sure if it's ODB, CDB or SCDB??
Even if it's the 'weakest' ODB, and if fully rebuilt with some of the best forged internals, then it's potentially good for well over 500bhp. A CDB is for 600bhp and much more, etc...
Even if it's the 'weakest' ODB, and if fully rebuilt with some of the best forged internals, then it's potentially good for well over 500bhp. A CDB is for 600bhp and much more, etc...
#60
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trust me the search for big power will break your heart and your bank balance. if you have £50K to throw at the car fair play to you, spend it, coz it's made round to go round or else be prepared to take a very deep breathe and take the plunge.
you also have to remember that this 600hp car will not and should not be your everyday car after conversion. too much power for the road in my opinion and it takes a major sensible head not to keep her between the hedges or race some **** in his rs focus.
just my thoughts but hey ho what do i know.