Im in Love!
#63
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It will provide a lot more feedback, including vibration, from the rear diff. You can just fit the bushes and not the bolts for some reduction in flex from the diff carrier.
#64
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Subframe Lock Kit just pins the rear subframe to the body, eliminating any flex in the subframe's rubber mounting bushes - Also ensures the subframe has a zero thrust angle (ie sitting straight on the car) - If your subframe is not aligned straight, you may find that you need to loosen the subframe in order to be able to fit the locking bolts - You would need to have the car re-aligned, as you will have altered rear camber and toe settings. - Some of the classic STi RA's had solidly mounted rear subframes, so no need for a lock kit if you buy one of these
Diff Lock kit just stops the T-Bar diff carrier from twisting and banging on hard launches/shifts.
I fitted both to our blue classic, and didn't really notice any more noise or vibration, but that's probably 'cos the exhaust is so fookin loud
Diff Lock kit just stops the T-Bar diff carrier from twisting and banging on hard launches/shifts.
I fitted both to our blue classic, and didn't really notice any more noise or vibration, but that's probably 'cos the exhaust is so fookin loud
Last edited by FB Tuning; 27 January 2010 at 10:39 PM.
#65
Thanks for info Rich.
Il buy the kit off Guv & just fit the diff kit bushes for the moment.
At higher speeds & high revs, when comming off the gas abruptly I get an occasional sound of,- I think the propshaft thudding into underside of body or subframe. If I come off the gas smoothly then its fine.
Il buy the kit off Guv & just fit the diff kit bushes for the moment.
At higher speeds & high revs, when comming off the gas abruptly I get an occasional sound of,- I think the propshaft thudding into underside of body or subframe. If I come off the gas smoothly then its fine.
#85
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I'm off Monday and Tuesday but I have a load of stuff to do around the house as well as some training so the car may just have to wait (plus I'm waiting on some stuff)
#86
Sat morning gona give the backbox & tighten up & mid section.
Also going to check the preload on the rear shocks & tighten up top collars to increase preload Im thinking. Does pre load have to be exactly same on left & right shock? Its just that I think off side rear needs more preload than nearside rear.
Also going to check the preload on the rear shocks & tighten up top collars to increase preload Im thinking. Does pre load have to be exactly same on left & right shock? Its just that I think off side rear needs more preload than nearside rear.
#87
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As I was saying when my other phone rang, I don't think its worth the effort on the exhaust until you get a flex joint in the system. Every time you boot it, it will shift again and it will be a never ending task. You need to get something like this in and get it welded in place
3" Stainless Exhaust Flexi Joint Flexipipe 150 x 76 on eBay (end time 12-Feb-10 20:00:06 GMT)
3" Stainless Exhaust Flexi Joint Flexipipe 150 x 76 on eBay (end time 12-Feb-10 20:00:06 GMT)
#90
Sat morning gona give the backbox & tighten up & mid section.
Also going to check the preload on the rear shocks & tighten up top collars to increase preload Im thinking. Does pre load have to be exactly same on left & right shock? Its just that I think off side rear needs more preload than nearside rear.
Also going to check the preload on the rear shocks & tighten up top collars to increase preload Im thinking. Does pre load have to be exactly same on left & right shock? Its just that I think off side rear needs more preload than nearside rear.
Depends on how much petrol you've got in there but doubt it matters with a Spec C tank! Why don't you take it to get corner-weighted if you want to get really fussy?