dynamix

iTrader: (3)

nor me

bren@apex

iTrader: (20)

Sorry for the late reply, the factory has closed down for a week and they hadnt supplied any further info before they shut down so Ive not had a great deal extra to add to the conversation.

I find it hard to believe that the fundimental design of the rubber type rear mounts is flawed simply because the same design is used in a huge range of vehicles with no problems. Its starting to look like it might be the angle of the rear dampers on the later Imprezas that are putting unusual side loading on the rubber type top mount thus leading to some noises in some instances. From putting feelers out I know that other coilover manufactures have also had headaches with the later Imprezas.

This is just a theory at the moment but it would explain why the pillowball rear top mounts are quieter.

Ive put the theory to the factory but, as above, they are closed until next week.

rickya

iTrader: (18)

Thats is what I have heard from a few reputable tuners in the past, to be the problem, in their opinion too.

kokekan

Excellent thanks guys for confirming - looks like the pillow-ball top mounts resolve this issue then which explains why Dipster and others are not having issues with their setups.

Please let me know what we can sort out Bren when the factory reopens. Cheers

prwatts

Guys, I know this is a long thread but I have BC's on my Hawkeye STI and I love 'em (MUCH better than OEM) but usually my Nearside Rear knocks if the pothole/manhole cover is a bit too deep. I use it as a warning gauge. It has been there since day-one, no worse, no better. Sometimes on these darn crappy roads after this winter I hit something with the front wheels and the coilover bangs - and the sound seems to come from the top. BTW I have OEM17" wheels with Dunlop 235/45 profile so quite elastic. I just live with it - the BC's are great and so is Apex's service.

lee1184

which rear top mounts do i have..

the ones i have got look like this

davedipster

The front ones are the pillow-ball adjustable mounts, rears are rubber.

dipster

lee1184

ok i think i will order the pillowball rears.. with the adjustable camber if its worth it??

what do people think??

davedipster

You will hear more noises from the drivetrain, brakes etc with pillow-ball tops.
If like I you know that before fitting, it will not come as a surprise.

dipster

vince-sti02

iTrader: (2)

I am Glad to say I don't have any issues with the BC RM series I have received from Bren.
I did post a question earlier in this topic. This was driven over concern from what I had read on here.
I received the goods they where as stated "very good quality,very easy to install"
they took an hour front and an hour rear to install. ensuring I had exact measurements for the ride height and for the camber" I used my I touch and a steel rule to set the camber".
I have put 3 days driving into the install now and I must say I am very happy,
I am very glad I have the rear pillow ball top mounts.
Not too much of an increase in sound from the rear. I am very happy overall.
I could do with some advice on settings as I am experiencing some bouncing settings are
front from Hard 12
rear from Hard 14
it doesn't bounce all the time just when I travel across a succession of bumps.

The road condition where I live is crap farm track local roads in France.
any help would be great.

I also had my geo checked 4 wheel laser job I was happy with the result as I just had one adjustment and that was the steering wheel centre.

Thanks Bren and Apex for a good product.

ade_sti

iTrader: (2)

Spoke to Dyno Demon today they told me that thery just installed them as recommended by Bren:-

Told me that you must hand tighten & put 5 mm of preload after hand tight.
Make sure that the pillow-ball adjustable mounts are lubricated or they will creek (like mine did).

Also make sure that drop links are in good condition (good idea to replace with alloy ones at this point) - i did, and castor kit)

Then get it 4 wheel aligned.

I have to say that not everyone knows how to do this properly and to be honest if I lived near the wirral / cheshire area I would take your car to Steve at Dyno Demon to get it sorted.

They did a top job on mine by ensuring the above pionts were done correctly and also set the car up for tarmac spec - height / camber and toe. Is amazing. I had the PPP handling kit and is in a different league now - top suspension kit. cheers Bren and Steve & Luke at Dyno Demon.

You get what you pay for I feel - I am not saying that the people who fitted a lot of these kits do not know what they are doing but it is possible - also how many people with problems have fitted the kits themselves? Just a thought. Ade.

ade_sti

iTrader: (2)

I have 14 from hard on front and 15 on rear.

Bjw_Sti

Bren

As stated before I have rubber rear top mounts (br series) which are creating lots of noise, reading the last few comments, looks like the pillow-ball top mounts are a better option, I don't mind drivetrain/braking noise. Are the top mounts interchangeable, ie. could I replace my rubber (rear) top mounts for the pillow-ball type using the existing springs/dampers that I have ? if so would you exchange them for free as the kit is still under warranty ?

ade_sti

iTrader: (2)

Bjw - mate I have no noise what so ever - who fitted the kit for you?

Bjw_Sti

ade_sti

I fitted the kit myself, then got Falkland Performance Centre to check and do a 4 wheel laser align and fast-road geo setup.

Do you also have the rubber type rear top mounts ?

ade_sti

iTrader: (2)

no mate solid ones. have you checked the preload?

Bjw_Sti

Yes the preload is fine.
Having read dipsters' and Dynamix' replies saying that rear pillow-ball type DONT have the same noise issues, then yourself having pillow-ball rears, I would prefer to have these mounts instead.

lee1184

Think i will be ordering the pillowball mounts tomorrow morning then so i can change them before i get them fitted to save taking them off twice..

I am wondering if they can be exchanged since there are so many problems with the rubber top mounts??

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Please be aware that any pillow ball connection is a lot more solid than a std rubber mount so you do get some more noise and vibration as a result. Doesnt matter if it is £50,000 worth of suspenion or not - it is just the way it is.

Having said that - I like the more direct feel of the pillowball mounts.

mr_D

iTrader: (12)

I have pillow ball top mounts and i still have the knocking lol

davedipster

That's that theory out the window then
Some cars are noiser than others. BC's, ohlins, KW's it doesnt matter who makes the struts. Please everyone with noises check...
Spring pre-load
Top nut on strut
Top mount nuts x3
lower bolts
strut locking rings
ARB bushes-all of them not just the drop-links
Hub center nuts, these come undone very often and make a clicking noise
wheel nuts?
The list goes on...
I had an annoying noise from the rear when pulling away and it was a hub nut, I only noticed it after fitting the BC's, easy fix though.

dipster

Bjw_Sti

On another (related) subject, I need to get you guys opinion on something...

After installing my BC coilovers I got my wheels laser aligned and a 'fast road' setup
done at Falkland Performance Centre. Having never been in a car with this setup done,
I'm not sure how it should feel. Indeed the body-roll has drastically decreased to the point that there's none !, and the ride is very stiff - both of these are good.
But...
There is now 'play' in my steering when going in a staight line, and when I turn-in its
like all the turning happens late and all at once causing the back the car to swing round (especially at roundabouts).
Also, my steering wheel sits off centre when going straight, and this seems to change depending on the camber of the road ie sometimes wheel is dead centre on a flat surface, but mostly off to the right when on a cambered road surface. I never take the car on a track, road use only.
So before I take it back to FPC, just thought I'd arm myself with some knowledge on this first. The guys at FPC did say to me it was hard to get the steering wheel exactly in the centre as it was such a fine adjustment.

By the way, with the original OEM STi suspension, the steering had no play at all and was very sensitive/responcive to my input.

What do you guys think ? have they set it up wrong ? is just because my car is getting older, worn bushes etc ? (only done 39,000 miles - 04 MY) any info welcome.



cheers

greatgonzo

iTrader: (1)

Don't sound right to me, I had mine done a few mouths ago on standard sti struts and have none of the faults you described. Have the tyres got even wear? If you are driving on roads with a lot camber then yes the steering will be out of centre but when on the flat it should be dead centre. The company that did the work should be able to get the steering centred surely that's one of the most important things when driving the most noticeable thing I have found is the extra grip through fast corners.

RA Dunk

Is this knocking problem a "new age" thing only? Whats people with classic's opinion of them?

vince-sti02

iTrader: (2)

After I had laser tracking set last week my car too feels like I have light steering and play around the centre when travelling straight ahead.
Not sure of the cause yet but it feels like play in the rack mount or ball joints.
However as soon as I enter a corner there are no problems at all no play no light feeling it feels well planted around slow and fast corners.
I have noticed a difference in the rear end sliding or stepping out this is probably attributed to a stiffer rear end and a faster corner entry speed. I will try and soften it up a bit to reduce this.

saying that its a lot of fun exiting corners.

I will have a look later at the steering play on centre.

On a second note while installing the rears I noticed a difference on either side when connecting the new strut I found that it was difficult to re connect due to pressure being applied by all the mounting points to the rear hub. This
only happened on one side due to the fact I had replaced a bearing on the other side a few months earlier and everything had been taken apart.

so yesterday I released all of the hub mounting points to the various suspension arms and no tension any more when connecting the new strut.
This has resulted in having a perfectly level rear end which before I didn't have even though I measured exactly the height of the new units it was out some 16 mm now its level..

Bjw_Sti

Wow, wasn't expecting someone else to have the same steering issue !

I am gonna take the car to a garage to sort out setup of the
BC kit. As I think I'm out of my depth here screwin around wi the suspension.

Will let all know the results when done.

cheers

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

or sounds like track rod ends. When my ball joint went it just created a clunking/knocking.

Was it like this before the geometry set up ?

vince-sti02

iTrader: (2)

Hi dynamix,
I had no issues before the change. still leaves me guessing I have checked all the ball joints, rack mounts, track rod ends. no play at all

I am beginning to think its settings, noticed today going over a repaired part of a road the steering became difficult although it was tram lining. the car was fighting to go either side of the repair but wasnt keen on staying where i wanted it to go.
I am sure its just wrong toe setting. will try and research some more settings the muppets over here dont have the correct choice of cars on the systems so have gone off advise on here.

Can any one confirm the standard settings for a JDM sti limited 2002 bug.

cheers

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Yeah the settings sound to be the cause for sure. Can you scan the printout?

vince-sti02

iTrader: (2)

sorry cant do that
but i will have a go at translating them
camber -0.30 Fr/h
-0.12 Fl/h
-1.36 Rl/h
-1.06 Rr/h
toe
l/h +0.06
r/h +0.06
rears are all 0.00 for all settings.
and tbh they moved nothing apart from the centring of the steering wheel.