I bought it to modify it, I bought it eyes open and knew I'd sort the engine out before next spring - I'd rather sort it out when I'm ready rather than when I'm forced into it.

 

I think you've been looking at the wrong one as one of them has the wrong models fitment listed.

The correct one for the hatch is

hatch pollen filter

 

These are a £1 cheaper from IofM Subaru Parts as well......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Su...25726470&rt=nc

 

Thats the one thats listed incorrect. That part number is for the previous generation according to opposed forces.

 

Best way to do it really, otherwise it could end up with needing a crank etc. I'd put money on the back of the VF48 will have a massive crack from the wastegate to the turbine in the housing its a common fault, I had one that went right through and had to change the housing, Think I have pictures somewere.

 

That's what I'm thinking as well, if it is then I'll either look at getting it repaired and upgraded with a billet shaft or just changing it outright for something more capable.

I bid on and won a set of Ecutek 800cc injectors this morning so I'm already part way there already, I'll get them flow tested and I'll order a new set of injector sealing rings.

 

I'll have a look in my pile of goodies at work I may have a full set of injector seals you can have, save you ordering some.

 

Thanks Rob.

 

Hi all
The car is really starting to smell of burning oil, other half has said its been like that for a while, so I had a go in it am allowed now and then,
and yes it stinks, not high miles but don,t think that makes much diff with these,
I cant find any leaks engines nice and clean have a pit, I know it could be pipe etc, but did anyone who,s had the dreaded piston/engine go have , have a burning smell of oil, or is there breather/ catch tank problems also
It,s a pain when you can,t see hear anything, just smell it

Stu

 

is it like this then?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Imp...3D171525726470

 

I take it you're loosing oil as well?

 

No But as we are coming up to doing 3k miles ill change it, and see if that help,

stu

 

Hi guys does anyone know the part number for the outside temperature sensor, I think my one is goosed thanks

 

you'll find it on this page

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/

 

The under car gearbox plastic under tray - the rear bolt is missing, and the tray flaps and knocks on the floor ... any one know size / thread for the bolt?

Cheers

 

Hi sorry for the delay, I had to wait for it to arrive. yes its the same as the pic in the link.

 

Only the front ones are bolts the rear two are clips...

see here.............

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/

 

and what did you pay?

 

They are 8.99. only one left earlier....

 

Cheers Don,

Looks like it's the one marked 4 but its recessed and the chassis hole threaded so the plug I thought may fit wont go ( the receiving "hole" thread is 1/3" deep, not sheet steel).

Anyone got a plug / clip for this hole??

Or an idea of the thread type ( think it's the metric version of 5/8" !! )

Cheers guys

 

m8x15 1.25 pitch shouldered bolt usually would suffice.

 

After deciding to definitely get an Enginetuner T36 hybrid turbo fitted during my engine rebuild it's raised interesting questions - should I uprate the standard air intake hose and fuel rails?

Having had a quick look there doesn't appear to be too much in the way of aftermarket alternatives.

 

Iv gone for a set of Perrin fuel rails and 800cc injectors and will be fittings perrin intake hose at some point in the near future ,, what sort of power would the T36 make on a 2.5 do you think as I'm still very undiscided on what turbo to go for ?

 

I don't want silly BHP just something that will make for a good road car, I am getting one with the standard (smaller) inlet size but with a larger (off the T38 turbo I think) exhaust housing to allow it to hold power for longer.

It is sort of a hybrid of an already hybrid turbo, they do a larger T38 turbo which would be able to handle 500+ BHP, with what I have planned along with a set of Ecutek 800cc injectors plus other mods then 420-450bhp will be easily achievable, but with a lot more torque than BHP as it's on a CDB fully forged 2.5.

 

have a look what SC have.. loads of Perrin stuff..
http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.p...tegory&path=67

 

I have just ordered a SamcoSport intake hose as I can buy direct out of their staff shop (as a friend of a friend works for them) at a very heavily discounted price.

As for the fuel rails I will have a look into the minefield that they are along with fuel lines etc.

 

Yeah iv also got a CDB forged 2.5 so very interested to see how you get on with the T36 ,, got a billet vf48 on there at the mo and its a nice turbo but looking for a bit more once iv got all the right bits in place

 

AEM Intake system seems to be among the best, I've had mine for 6 years with no issues and sits happily at 460bhp.

As for the fuel system, I'd look at replacing the intank pump to a direct replacement that's now available. I run Denso 750cc Injectors on std fuel rails which are hardly under any stress.

However there are known issues with the GR series suffering something called a fuel stumble around 2700-3000 rpm on light throttle and load the car runs lean, this has been known to be fixed by adding a loop of hose on the feed line and tuning the load calculation/adjustment tables to zero. Not sure if this still happens on the likes of the perrin setup.

I've got those seals for you, the rubbers for the manifold and the o-ring tops so 8 in total, would you like them posted to the same address as the rear lamp ?

 

Never had any dealing with the T series But I run the Lateral MD321T on my 2.5 build 500ft/lbs at 3900 rpm 460 bhp at 6390 rpm, seems pretty nippy

 

That's good to know on the fuel rails - I was sure that I'd read somewhere that the factory rails were good enough for my planned power level, so at least that's something I don't need to spend on. I've got a Torques 340lph fuel pump (made for them by the same manufacturer who makes them for RCM) plus I'll probably fit a FPR as well.

I'll have a look at the AEM induction kit, doesn't the filter sit in the inner wheel arch area?

If you could please post the seals to that same address that would be great, but I insist on giving you something for them.