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08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!

Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:45 PM
  #11251  
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New shot of the scoob , slammed and with some nice advans .
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #11252  
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at how many miles you done?

who did the diagnostic?
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #11253  
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Originally Posted by arabski
Koyo rad, 18-row oil cooler and 95 fuel map with 1.1 bar boost + methanol for S#/1.3bar trackday setup so far so good - 21kkm since engine rebuild with no noticeable oil consumption - I replaced OEM rods and pitstons with cosworth in advance :P The car performs fine under 40-45 oC. - if it is hotter than that, there is no point driving it because the OEM aircon is not efficient enough anyway (for those hot days I rent something with Gulf specs Aircon instead, like Kia Rio or Nissan Tida )

That's a very nice car with good spec.
Who maps them there, is there a local firm or did you bring someone from abroad?
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 02:43 PM
  #11254  
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Originally Posted by fpan
That's a very nice car with good spec.
Who maps them there, is there a local firm or did you bring someone from abroad?
thanks, soft was done by a tuner invited from UK, I believe he used to work for advanceme at the time...
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #11255  
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Can anyone help with this alarm query?
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #11256  
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Originally Posted by boyward

replied




while we're at it, whats the code to Auto Alarm your car once you shut the last door?
says it can be turned off/on by your dearler.. and its turned off at installation.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 06:08 PM
  #11257  
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Originally Posted by salsa-king
replied




while we're at it, whats the code to Auto Alarm your car once you shut the last door?
says it can be turned off/on by your dearler.. and its turned off at installation.
Yep I know how to do it.

Auto arm with door locking 60 seconds after the last door has been closed, Note make sure keys are not in the vehicle.

*17856 wait for the beep *004*1# turns it on. every-time a door is opened it will beep twice to inform you that its active
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:13 PM
  #11258  
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Originally Posted by rob84
Yep I know how to do it.

Auto arm with door locking 60 seconds after the last door has been closed, Note make sure keys are not in the vehicle.

*17856 wait for the beep *004*1# turns it on. every-time a door is opened it will beep twice to inform you that its active

top man, do you do the key pad numbers with ignition on and drivers do open, or doesn't it matter?

times many I've gone back to the car because I can't remember if i press the button on the door handle or not.

If i leave keys in the car I can still get in with key less entry as I just press the door handle button. :0

Last edited by salsa-king; Oct 22, 2013 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #11259  
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Originally Posted by salsa-king
top man, do you do the key pad numbers with ignition on and drivers do open, or doesn't it matter?

times many I've gone back to the car because I can't remember if i press the button on the door handle or not.

If i leave keys in the car I can still get in with key less entry as I just press the door handle button. :0
just arm then disarm the system with the button on you fob then with the door open ignition off enter the sequence.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:00 PM
  #11260  
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May sound a school boy question but coolant, what leval is yours at when cold? The low mark, the full mark or inbertween? Mine was below the low mark so filled it to the full mark, after a hard drive it raised rather high makeing me question did i over fill it? Also im wondering do i have a leak, i need to moniter it for a few days, any common places they leak? Any hoeses prone to splitting? How long do rads last before getting a minor hole? Corroded etc, thanks
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:23 PM
  #11261  
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Originally Posted by ericooper
May sound a school boy question but coolant, what leval is yours at when cold? The low mark, the full mark or inbertween? Mine was below the low mark so filled it to the full mark, after a hard drive it raised rather high makeing me question did i over fill it? Also im wondering do i have a leak, i need to moniter it for a few days, any common places they leak? Any hoeses prone to splitting? How long do rads last before getting a minor hole? Corroded etc, thanks
I have mine set half way between min and max and it doesn't move at all.

Not prone to any issues with pipes or rads as far as I've seen
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 07:49 AM
  #11262  
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Originally Posted by ericooper
May sound a school boy question but coolant, what leval is yours at when cold? The low mark, the full mark or inbertween? Mine was below the low mark so filled it to the full mark, after a hard drive it raised rather high makeing me question did i over fill it? Also im wondering do i have a leak, i need to moniter it for a few days, any common places they leak? Any hoeses prone to splitting? How long do rads last before getting a minor hole? Corroded etc, thanks
I take it you are referring to the expansion tank next to the radiator.

As it's name suggests it allows for coolant expansion and contraction depending upon its temperature and prevents air entering the system.

As you say the level rose after a "hard drive" that is to be expected as the coolant will have expanded due to a rise in temp and the excess fluid is sent to the expansion tank.
As the coolant cools down and contracts the system will "suck" fluid back into the system.

The pressure cap on the header tank has two valves one to release excess pressure and one to prevent a partial vacumn forming.

The level in the expansion tank will fluctuate depending upon the temperature of the coolant.
As long as it doesn't overflow - possible head gasket failure or empty completely - coolant leak, you shouldn't have a problem.
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #11263  
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Originally Posted by Don Clark
I take it you are referring to the expansion tank next to the radiator.

As it's name suggests it allows for coolant expansion and contraction depending upon its temperature and prevents air entering the system.

As you say the level rose after a "hard drive" that is to be expected as the coolant will have expanded due to a rise in temp and the excess fluid is sent to the expansion tank.
As the coolant cools down and contracts the system will "suck" fluid back into the system.

The pressure cap on the header tank has two valves one to release excess pressure and one to prevent a partial vacumn forming.

The level in the expansion tank will fluctuate depending upon the temperature of the coolant.
As long as it doesn't overflow - possible head gasket failure or empty completely - coolant leak, you shouldn't have a problem.
Yeah with the name "expansion" i expected it to rise, just didnt expect quet so much as iv not payed attention to it befoure, made question was something wrong, its the face it was low that concered me most, ive noted its cool level so can just moniture it now,

Thanks
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #11264  
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Afternoon guys, quick question regarding the fueling system on my hatch.

Im booked in to have a remap next month and was recommended to upgrade my fuel pump before doing so..

I have heard about a pump from Sytec and also bosch.. But I cant seem to find one suitable for the hatch. Any ideas on where to go or which one to get?

Cheers guys!
Dan
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #11265  
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All depends what power your going for but the hatch flue pump is good for about 390 bhp
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #11266  
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Originally Posted by Burnett
All depends what power your going for but the hatch flue pump is good for about 390 bhp
After the remap I should be breaking the 400 barrier
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #11267  
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Originally Posted by Hart
Afternoon guys, quick question regarding the fueling system on my hatch.

Im booked in to have a remap next month and was recommended to upgrade my fuel pump before doing so..

I have heard about a pump from Sytec and also bosch.. But I cant seem to find one suitable for the hatch. Any ideas on where to go or which one to get?

Cheers guys!
Dan
Changing the pump in the Hatch onwards can, AFAIK, also require some modification unless you get the right pump.

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This thread may be interesting...........

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2303133

Last edited by Don Clark; Oct 29, 2013 at 03:07 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #11268  
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being thick... how does a different fuel pump help?
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 08:44 AM
  #11269  
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Originally Posted by Hart
After the remap I should be breaking the 400 barrier
What mads you got done
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 10:11 AM
  #11270  
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Originally Posted by Hart
After the remap I should be breaking the 400 barrier
It's a lot easier if you can find a pump as a direct drop in replacement for the stock pump.. As pointed out by Don some do and some don't. Otherwise you can add in an external fuel pump and keep the stock pump as a "lift pump" to supply the external pump, but in order to do that you will need a swirl pot so it will get more expensive and more plumbing / install time / expertise.

On my hatch (running 470bhp) I have done just that, OE pump, connects to a swirl pot in the engine bay, and then on to a Bosch 044 pump (also in engine bay). I had to install an aftermarket FPR though as the increased flow rate from the bigger pump was overwhelming the stock FPR at idle/light cruise.

I know Roger Clark were working on a direct drop in replacement for the hatch a few months back, don't know if anything ever came of it but it's worth giving them a call to check.
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 01:23 PM
  #11271  
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Originally Posted by salsa-king
being thick... how does a different fuel pump help?
More fuel flow so the injectors don't need to run as much duty cycle in some instances
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 06:00 PM
  #11272  
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Originally Posted by Don Clark
Changing the pump in the Hatch onwards can, AFAIK, also require some modification unless you get the right pump.



This thread may be interesting...........

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2303133
Just had a read through this thread, seems more complicated than I first thought to change a fuel pump. But great tutorial all the same.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 06:08 PM
  #11273  
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Originally Posted by rob84
we sold 3 in wr blue, one now belongs to EthanRob on here as it was powerstaioned for the 1st owner, One was a ppp car and the other is currently a police intercept vehicle, Then the option disappeared into thin air


we also sold around 15 in wrx livery in WR Blue inc diesels.
Bit of a while back now this was discussed.. But its got me thinking wether or not my car is rarer than i thought.

I have a WR blue STI hatch. Came with every upgrade available including the bigger BBS wheels, recaros, heated mirrors and wipers, push start and built in subaru sat nav!

?
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 09:16 PM
  #11274  
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Is anyone interested in a set of genuine exhaust trim finishers? It's the silver trim that attaches to the sti bumper just above the exhausts. I bought them off here but have decided not to fit them as I'm going for a stealth black look instead. £100 delivered, they are brand new never fitted.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 11:52 PM
  #11275  
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Originally Posted by Hart
I have a WR blue STI hatch. Came with every upgrade available including the bigger BBS wheels, recaros, heated mirrors and wipers, push start and built in subaru sat nav!

?
is it a 330s or a Euro Import?
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #11276  
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Anyone seen a wide arch hatch yet, apart from RCM Gobstopper II?
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:09 PM
  #11277  
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Originally Posted by salsa-king
is it a 330s or a Euro Import?
I know its not a 330S......?
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:46 PM
  #11278  
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What alarm does it have, does it have the round grey ultrasonics halfway down the A Pillers?
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:42 PM
  #11279  
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Originally Posted by Hart
I know its not a 330S......?

it'll be a euro import then if it has all those extra as standard? Rob will be able to give more info I'd of thought.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #11280  
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parallel import came on BBS wheels. UK cars had the lustric setup fitted.
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