Scoobynodd

iTrader: (1)

Ahh ok - I must admit, I'm not too up on the Android way of things, but as far as I understand - I don't think they have any bother with Bluetooth way round.

DM1

Better just leaving it alone until you arrange a remap. You could put an after market filter into it but i wouldnt put a induction kit on. The money you would spend on getting an induction kit would be better put to a re map.

rob84

iTrader: (5)

You need to take the wheel off and remove the rubber plug on the flange of the disc & give the starwheel a couple of clicks up to loosen it off.. I'd never attempt taking discs off without slackening the adjuster first, you will end up costing yourself a fortune if you bust the handbrake mechanism.



Do not just simple bolt a turbo and intake system on the car without remapping. you will cause a serious meltdown as if the engines in std trim arnt choccolate enough. with a good induction kit/exhaust and a remap if you wanted will hit high 300's

bioforger

iTrader: (1)

heheh flange heh.... sorry

stressballsteve

Cheers rob, I did slacken it off, but it didn't make any difference with the binding, but wheni put the ld disk back on it was fine, is this expected or is there an issue with the disks? Thanks again

Kedlestone

iTrader: (9)

The missus wants to give the plastics around the gear surround and window controls a freshen up, are they just held in with clips or is there hidden screws before I start swearing at them?

Also we've got a few small paint chips on the bonnet around the scoop, would a paint touch up pen be worth a go or do they create more problems by standing out?

Cleaver92

Do not just simple bolt a turbo and intake system on the car without remapping. you will cause a serious meltdown as if the engines in std trim arnt choccolate enough. with a good induction kit/exhaust and a remap if you wanted will hit high 300's [/quote]

I didnt mean a new turbo lol just a bigger inlet tube But what you just said is the plan tbh, with keeping the boost at a sensible pressue, would it be safe to go up to around 350bhp on the stock internals?

Abx

iTrader: (15)

I was running 345 on my hatch with standard internals and the following mods:

2nd cat delete
deresonated centre pipe
PPP backbox
Cosworth replacement panel filter
Zerosports intake pipe
custom map

But I always understood the risk and that there was every chance the engine could let go, the map should make it safer (reason I had it done) but with the hatch engines some go at 5k with no mods and some go at 50k with a backbox mod.

I even had all this done whilst my car was still under warranty so voided it but was more comfortanble with a Dynamix map than Subaru.

You take your chances..........

Cleaver92

Thanks for the advice, that was the plan I had really. Was it worth the risk of voiding the warranty as in, how did it transform the car in terms of power delivery acceleration compared to stock?

rob84

iTrader: (5)

I ran 380bhp on std internals for 30,000 miles before it shat itself, I still vow to this day had it not been down to fuel it would have lasted longer, only because it detted itself to bits it failed..

rob84

iTrader: (5)

the door trims have a screw under the small flip up cover in the part where you pull the door shut, take that out and gently pry the panel up at the rear and the front with a plastic trim tool and it will pop up.

the gear stick surround, pull up the handbrake gaitor and remove the single philips screw and lift the rear part up then just pull the surround up around the gear stick it will unclip then slide it towards the rear of the vehicle it will pop off

scoobysteve1983

what fuel was it that you think made it commit suicide?

rob84

iTrader: (5)

it committed mechanical suicide in 2010 after the local shell station did the wrong thing by selling 95ron as v power it lasted all of 75 miles. fuel samples drawn from the tank & analysed stated it to be normal unleaded

scoobysteve1983

ouch! mind if i ask if they paid towards any rebuild costs?

rob84

iTrader: (5)

eventually contributed towards parts, but has taken 3 years

scoobysteve1983

thats shocking! whats a few grand to a multinational company like shell... especially since it was their f**k up! do you work for subaru?

mickp

iTrader: (1)

Should have been free fuel for life Rob.

Least they could do for such a good customer.

rob84

iTrader: (5)

It's not There fault to be honest, the garage is owned privately so it was them that coughed up. Yes I do indeed mate

rob84

iTrader: (5)

Could have made good use of that to be honest over 10k a year on fuel lol

scoobysteve1983

pm sent!

Cleaver92

So if it does go pop what would you be looking at spending to get it running again. I suppose it depends what goes wrong really??

urban

iTrader: (1)

What that over £800 a month
How many miles in a year, or are you just knocking the ***** out of it all the time

ScottishRayman

Knowing Rob it will prob be both

rob84

iTrader: (5)

currently 24k a year, I use it every day & kick its nuts in daily
Correct mate haha, Allthough I'm taking it steady at the moment until mapping day and averaging 380 miles to a tank

rob84

iTrader: (5)

As an example mine has just cost me just a little over £3000 for parts only.
But it depends on what spec you want it built too

Cleaver92

Ok fair enough, What pressure were you running your turbo at when you had 380bhp on standard engine internals. Also as you work for subaru lol do they have any of these problems you get with the hatch engines with the new saloons or can you mod them to a decent bhp safely?

Cleaver92

Thought i would give my front plate a little trim

Busterbulldog

iTrader: (1)

How come these cars are so cheap to insure? Just had my renewal on the Cossie £319.07p.Amazing for the performance on offer.

rob84

iTrader: (5)

1.5 bar boost pressure.. essentially the engine is the same, just the mapping strategy is different. I'd strongly suggest to not go above 350bhp on std internals, as you could encounter one bad batch of fuel which will wreck it..

salsa-king

which do you think I should go for?