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Old 20 June 2012, 08:20 PM
  #7801  
rob84
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Originally Posted by gussy
Rob i will have a crack with you on saturday but I have completed the 1st of 5 baffle plates same as the prodrive group N baffled sumps just need a supply of twin scroll sumps to complete and a bit of alloy welding.I will bring one over to LWV at the weekend for you to have a look at.
Spot on gus, If you have any bits already cut and ready to go I'll buy a kit from you as I've got a new sump ready to be modded to fit one to for my new build
Old 21 June 2012, 06:30 AM
  #7802  
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Im quite confused now...

Did some highway pulls against my friends Honda Civic Type R 2004 EP3 yesterday and the race was very even. We started from 30 mph all the way up to 150 mph, the Impreza took the start but couldnt pull away.
His car has an aftermarket exhaust and cai, but I should be a better driver.

Isn't the STI supposed to be faster than this with 300 hp?

The Civic is the one to the left...

Last edited by Snarson; 21 June 2012 at 07:33 AM.
Old 21 June 2012, 07:44 AM
  #7803  
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what scoob makes up for in power gives away in weight so power to weight they are pretty much the same i'd imagine

try the test from 0-100mph

big difference then
Old 21 June 2012, 09:47 AM
  #7804  
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Originally Posted by Snarson
Im quite confused now...

Did some highway pulls against my friends Honda Civic Type R 2004 EP3 yesterday and the race was very even. We started from 30 mph all the way up to 150 mph, the Impreza took the start but couldnt pull away.
His car has an aftermarket exhaust and cai, but I should be a better driver.

Isn't the STI supposed to be faster than this with 300 hp?

The Civic is the one to the left...
Back in the day I had a stock ’00 classic turbo (218bhp) I had a few encounters with EP3 civics and once rolling there was very little in at all. Classic’s were a lot lighter than current STi’s but you have about 80 extra horses so I would have thought you would fair better against one.

I have an FN2 civic type r at the moment which is heavier and non-LSD model. Its ok once moving but from a standing start it struggles for traction even on dry tarmac. Easy to get outdone but a golf TDI if your not paying attention. VTEC only kicks in at 5400rpm by which time the wheels are wanting to spin so you have to change up to keep traction. If you want to “play” you always have to be in or very near VTEC = screaming engine rather than subtle torque from a turbo’d car.
Old 21 June 2012, 09:54 AM
  #7805  
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Originally Posted by Rocket launcher
Duncan (dynamix) has just done a map on mine
Mapped on tesco 99 which i have always used
now puts out 336 BHP and 375 Torque
pulls like a train and going off the printout the curve is very linear from start to finish
car has done 49,000 miles and has never missed a beat, i have it seviced
every 10K as per book and i have NEVER checked the oil, until today to see if any was there (9000 since last service) and its nearly to the full mark, had to look in book to see were the bonnett release was
I’m genuinely curious here as someone who has never had a car remapped (I don’t even have a Scooby at present but hope to fairly soon). Such a remap by Duncan or any other reputable mapper is specific to your engine and therefore is deemed safer, more reliable, better power & torque and possibly better mpg etc than the default manufacturers map. However Subaru/Pro-r provide an off the shelf 340r map with only an exhaust change which results in gains similar to that (at least on paper) and keeps your warranty intact. So is it mainly piece of mind that someone is custom mapping your engine individually or am I missing additional benefits like better / earlier power delivery and range?

Cheers
Simon
Old 21 June 2012, 10:00 AM
  #7806  
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Originally Posted by P1Fanatic
Back in the day I had a stock ’00 classic turbo (218bhp) I had a few encounters with EP3 civics and once rolling there was very little in at all. Classic’s were a lot lighter than current STi’s but you have about 80 extra horses so I would have thought you would fair better against one.

I have an FN2 civic type r at the moment which is heavier and non-LSD model. Its ok once moving but from a standing start it struggles for traction even on dry tarmac. Easy to get outdone but a golf TDI if your not paying attention. VTEC only kicks in at 5400rpm by which time the wheels are wanting to spin so you have to change up to keep traction. If you want to “play” you always have to be in or very near VTEC = screaming engine rather than subtle torque from a turbo’d car.
My girlfriend had a Civic Type R MY05 with the BPU kit (CAI & exhaust). I think that car was quite fast, it made 222 BHP in the engine (my friend had the same mods).

I also had a Honda S2000 before the Subie and I must say that I think the S2000 probably is faster than my current STI
Old 21 June 2012, 10:34 AM
  #7807  
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i know plenty of engines that have gone bang that have been mapped by all the big named people on here, the engine could be crap but map good or vica versa

its all a numbers game just like the standard engine and map which is why i have never messed around with my engines.
Old 21 June 2012, 10:39 AM
  #7808  
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Originally Posted by Snarson

I also had a Honda S2000 before the Subie and I must say that I think the S2000 probably is faster than my current STI
AWD disguises the actual power as its more smoother, RWD cars give you more of a kick so you feel like its faster.
Old 21 June 2012, 10:41 AM
  #7809  
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Originally Posted by rb5 286
AWD disguises the actual power as its more smoother, RWD cars give you more of a kick so you feel like its faster.
But my S2k was faster than my friends Impreza WRX PPP 2004 (265 hp).

My current STi has equal performance as the mentioned WRX PPP...

Hence, the S2000 should be faster then my STi?
Old 21 June 2012, 11:36 AM
  #7810  
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well if thats the case then it would be lol

cant wait to get my 458 italia, i know that will be fast
Old 21 June 2012, 12:13 PM
  #7811  
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Originally Posted by P1Fanatic
I’m genuinely curious here as someone who has never had a car remapped (I don’t even have a Scooby at present but hope to fairly soon). Such a remap by Duncan or any other reputable mapper is specific to your engine and therefore is deemed safer, more reliable, better power & torque and possibly better mpg etc than the default manufacturers map. However Subaru/Pro-r provide an off the shelf 340r map with only an exhaust change which results in gains similar to that (at least on paper) and keeps your warranty intact. So is it mainly piece of mind that someone is custom mapping your engine individually or am I missing additional benefits like better / earlier power delivery and range?

Cheers
Simon
340r map is on the MY11, AFAIK none of these have gone pop.

The issue is with the MY08 cars, both the 1st STI map was crap, the reflash for the STI was no better and the PPP map seems to be pretty useless too.

If mapped by a specialist and as long as you are not pushing the standard engine beyond it limits a custom map will be much safer and look after your engine, map and exhaust will give around 340/350bhp safely.

Also a custom map is way cheaper than a Subaru upgrade with more power.

Again AFAIK Duncan has not had any MY08's let go yet with one of his maps, and I'm not sure any ECUTEK'ed have gone either, again remember here that safe power increases is key on a car with standard internals.

A custom map is bespoke to the car and its environment, the OE map will let the car run on crap fuel, at the top of a mountain or driving across a desert, so you could drive round the world and fill up at most places and drive in all weather conditions, a custom map is tailored to your motoring so makes better use of the engine in the UK, this gives more power.

In addition the mapper builds in better saftey to the map so rather than underfueling it overfuels to stop det etc, this is a little beyond me though at this point so others will be able to expalin further I'm sure!

Last edited by Abx; 21 June 2012 at 12:14 PM.
Old 21 June 2012, 01:17 PM
  #7812  
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Originally Posted by Abx
Also a custom map is way cheaper than a Subaru upgrade with more power.

Again AFAIK Duncan has not had any MY08's let go yet with one of his maps, and I'm not sure any ECUTEK'ed have gone either, again remember here that safe power increases is key on a car with standard internals.

i know of some
Old 21 June 2012, 01:27 PM
  #7813  
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ECUTEK'd - yeah, I know some too
Old 21 June 2012, 02:13 PM
  #7814  
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Think bhp is key, a well mapped 08 running relativley low numbers seems to be ok, from what I've read/heard 350+ and you've potentially got issues.

I know when Duncan mapped mine he kept the boost low as did not want to risk anything, I was sure none of his had failed, again so I was told, had not heard otherwise.
Old 21 June 2012, 02:56 PM
  #7815  
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Originally Posted by stevie1982
right guys, I have had an email back they have stated that the standard overlays as fitted to robs hatch on a previous page are $42 per set.

here is a link that contains images of all of the ones they supply (there are 2 pages) obviously from that point cost will vary but on most they are stated when you click the link to the picture you like.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y42...TI%20Overlays/

please have a look and pop a post up or pm me the IMG code (or two) to make sure you get the right one you are after if you require one that is different to the standard overlay (if any of that makes sense)

they have quoted $6 to ship them as a single so that may go up slightly but it will be spilt across how many are ordered. also there will no doubt be import taxes and duties which i have no idea what they will cost but i am willing to front it when they arrive and then again split that between everyone who has ordered as set (cant be fairer than that)

was thinking of waiting till the end of the month before ordering to give any others time to get in on it and may be popping this up in a group buy section

please let me know

cheers
Originally Posted by ScottishRayman
I'm up for a set of these Stevie. Will pick which ones when I get home tomorrow & pm you mate
just an update on this guys, I will be hoping to place the order at the end of the month so the 29th (friday) or the 1st july (monday) if there is any one else wishing to get a set please let me know and any one who already has sent me the pics i will be on the chase for the money soon so a mail with my paypal account will be on its way

cheers
Old 21 June 2012, 08:44 PM
  #7816  
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Default ive posted this in general but may get a better reponce in here

Last couple of days I noticed my 08Sti has not been running quite right, and only noticeable is slow moving traffic when the RPM is below 2500rpm, it appears to stutter as you come on/off the throttle, once above this engine speed everything appears to be normal but would say the idle appears to be a litte rough

However today the dash decided to light up like a Christmas tree and now can’t select any of the I drive modes, so I assume it must be in limp home mode...

Since going into limp mode the rough idle has complety gone so has the stutter, is this because the ECU has shut down a faulty sensor or it has gone out of range so the readings are discarded by the ECU?

I'm fully aware of the ringland issues as my short motor was replaced 5000miles ago which was then remapped by one of the popular Guys on here, thankfully I don’t think the symptoms are the same (no oil loss yet)

So ringland issues aside what other things could it be?
Airflow meter, O2 sensor etc. etc.? Are there any other common faults on the hatch around the 25k mark?

If anyone got a code reader in the Worthing area that would be great!!
Old 21 June 2012, 08:53 PM
  #7817  
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Mine had a new O2 sensor at 19k miles, but the lights just came on, I couldn't really notice a difference in how it was driving. You will need to get the ECU read through a diagnostic machine or software to see which sensor is playing up.

If it does turn out to be your front O2 sensor, I have a brand new genuine spare one which I ordered from the states which you can have relatively cheap.
Old 21 June 2012, 09:00 PM
  #7818  
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Originally Posted by Imy877
Mine had a new O2 sensor at 19k miles, but the lights just came on, I couldn't really notice a difference in how it was driving. You will need to get the ECU read through a diagnostic machine or software to see which sensor is playing up.

If it does turn out to be your front O2 sensor, I have a brand new genuine spare one which I ordered from the states which you can have relatively cheap.
Imy877,

Kind of reassuring yours went as well if you know what I mean! If I wasn’t stuck in a traffic jam every day I don’t think I would have noticed it!

Trying to find someone local who can read the codes tomorrow, but if it turns out to be the o2 sensor I will take your spare off you... Could you PM me a price?
Old 21 June 2012, 10:23 PM
  #7819  
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To add to the recent tale of woe in this thread, I'll add more.

Back in Sept my car and a new tailgate fitted under warranty, earlyer this year I thought I heard sloshing coming from the back of the car, but was intermittant so put it down to the tank.

Then a collague heard it, and I became convinced that there was water in the car. Well after the heavy rain recently it got louder, so with advice from Rob, I went looking for it, starting with the door drains, with no joy. My efforts narrowed it down to 1 area on the passenger side, the sill!! I am not kidding I drained 3 - 4 litres of water out of the sill, and all was good, the sun got hotter and what little water remained dried out.

This is where it gets fun. I'd booked my car in to get this remedied (as it only started happening after I had the new boot lid), with the local dealer, (the warranty place is no longer subaru), to be told your car is out of warranty and this will be chargeable, despite the sill being a sealed void and starting when it did! My car is out of warrenty by 2 months and all warranty work I believe carries a 12 month garranttee.

Well today it rained so I've shot a little video for the guys at IM. The clip I'm removing is the 2nd from the front on the side skirt.

Enjoy, its grainy as my cam ain't the best in low light and its only a couple of mins long


Last edited by Simon C; 21 June 2012 at 10:24 PM.
Old 21 June 2012, 10:36 PM
  #7820  
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I'm guessing the water is geting in from the seal around the tailgate and sliding down the inside rear quarter down to the sill? weird!

I had a 3 series convertible before the STi and I always emptied out a boot full of water once a month.

hope they sort it out for you
Old 22 June 2012, 06:54 AM
  #7821  
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that's a lot of water
Old 22 June 2012, 07:06 AM
  #7822  
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Thats not good to see. How can that not be a manufacturing issue !!!

Not like Subaru to run away from a problem
Old 22 June 2012, 10:47 AM
  #7823  
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had the standard wheels on my 330s replaced around 9 months ago due to the paint bubbling slightly. i have noticed that they are stating to go again, not much yet but the are small bubble appearing.
would this be classed as a warranty job even though they have been replaced before?
ps, curbed one slightly this morning, but don't think this should affect the above should it?

carlos..
Old 22 June 2012, 10:57 AM
  #7824  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
had the standard wheels on my 330s replaced around 9 months ago due to the paint bubbling slightly. i have noticed that they are stating to go again, not much yet but the are small bubble appearing.
would this be classed as a warranty job even though they have been replaced before?
ps, curbed one slightly this morning, but don't think this should affect the above should it?

carlos..

What are you using to clean them and have thay Ben kerbed
Old 22 June 2012, 11:12 AM
  #7825  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
had the standard wheels on my 330s replaced around 9 months ago due to the paint bubbling slightly. i have noticed that they are stating to go again, not much yet but the are small bubble appearing.
would this be classed as a warranty job even though they have been replaced before?
ps, curbed one slightly this morning, but don't think this should affect the above should it?

carlos..
Probably not, but who knows with that bunch!
I assume the corrosion is around the centre caps and spokes?
Old 22 June 2012, 11:23 AM
  #7826  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
had the standard wheels on my 330s replaced around 9 months ago due to the paint bubbling slightly. i have noticed that they are stating to go again, not much yet but the are small bubble appearing.
would this be classed as a warranty job even though they have been replaced before?
ps, curbed one slightly this morning, but don't think this should affect the above should it?

carlos..
Subaru replaced all my wheels when 2 of mine started to corrode, no quibbles.
Old 22 June 2012, 12:38 PM
  #7827  
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wouldn't call it corrosion, but the paint is bubbling on the spokes.
also, i read on the hatch forum that there is a recall on some of the squeaky recaro seats.
has anyone had any warranty work done on them?
Old 22 June 2012, 12:43 PM
  #7828  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
wouldn't call it corrosion, but the paint is bubbling on the spokes.
also, i read on the hatch forum that there is a recall on some of the squeaky recaro seats.
has anyone had any warranty work done on them?

I have had the wheels changed on the 330s - 2 were bubbling got all 4 changed 12 months ago ( only used them since March this year as used other wheels with winter tyres over winter ).
Poorboys protective wheel wax on them before fitting, OK 3 months later!


Recaro seat subframe - yes, had one changed last sept as it creaked and squeeked after being tightened up and greased previously by dealer, and the subframe stuck so no forward back adjustment a month ago and had another seat subframe.
This one firm but now creaking again. Good old WD40!
Old 22 June 2012, 12:52 PM
  #7829  
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it doesn't creak all the time, just a tad annoying when it does.
where a bouts do you spray the wd-40?
Old 22 June 2012, 01:03 PM
  #7830  
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Originally Posted by Simon C
To add to the recent tale of woe in this thread, I'll add more.

Back in Sept my car and a new tailgate fitted under warranty, earlyer this year I thought I heard sloshing coming from the back of the car, but was intermittant so put it down to the tank.

Then a collague heard it, and I became convinced that there was water in the car. Well after the heavy rain recently it got louder, so with advice from Rob, I went looking for it, starting with the door drains, with no joy. My efforts narrowed it down to 1 area on the passenger side, the sill!! I am not kidding I drained 3 - 4 litres of water out of the sill, and all was good, the sun got hotter and what little water remained dried out.

This is where it gets fun. I'd booked my car in to get this remedied (as it only started happening after I had the new boot lid), with the local dealer, (the warranty place is no longer subaru), to be told your car is out of warranty and this will be chargeable, despite the sill being a sealed void and starting when it did! My car is out of warrenty by 2 months and all warranty work I believe carries a 12 month garranttee.

Well today it rained so I've shot a little video for the guys at IM. The clip I'm removing is the 2nd from the front on the side skirt.

Enjoy, its grainy as my cam ain't the best in low light and its only a couple of mins long

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IKUd...hannel&list=UL
Wow, no wonder there has been a hosepipe ban!


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