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Old 01 May 2012, 07:32 PM
  #7321  
mickp
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Think i will pay the £10.00 a tank, go a bit slower and stay alive
Old 01 May 2012, 08:15 PM
  #7322  
rob84
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Originally Posted by dsemuk
OK where to start, I have an STi hatch, (registered 2010), so I dont want to do anything which may invalidate the manufacturers warranty, but once the warranty expires...

I plan to get the engine rebuilt, I dont want a mad 500+ weekend fun car I want a reliable daily driver, perhaps in the long term able to stick with a Cosworth hatch.

What level of engine rebuild should I consider, hopefully I will be starting with a working engine?

I would especially welcome comment from those who have rebuilt or had rebuilt hatch engines.
The million dollar question is what power level do you plan to run at ?

Even a working engine will need some degree of machining work doing to it Unless your very lucky, so that will have to be factored in

Pistons/Headstuds/Racebearings, Uprated oil pump, MLS headgaskets should hold up to 450bhp but Ideally would benefit from better conrods & block pinning. IMHO.
Old 01 May 2012, 08:51 PM
  #7323  
dsemuk
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Originally Posted by rob84
The million dollar question is what power level do you plan to run at ?

Even a working engine will need some degree of machining work doing to it Unless your very lucky, so that will have to be factored in

Pistons/Headstuds/Racebearings, Uprated oil pump, MLS headgaskets should hold up to 450bhp but Ideally would benefit from better conrods & block pinning. IMHO.
Must admit I thought uprated rods was a given as the pistons are being replaced.

What is block pinning? Is that something specific to the boxer as the block is in two halves?

I assume the standard crank is OK for a fair bit of power. What about a lightened flywheel on a road car, I know it will let the engine rev better, but does it make the tick-over really lumpy?

From the power point of view I am not looking for big numbers, just reliability.
Old 01 May 2012, 09:37 PM
  #7324  
rob84
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The standard rods in the hatch will hold 420bhp all day long but anymore than that I'd be changing them for my own piece of mind.

Block pining, It's alloy pins pressed in around the bores in the block to prevent them moving under heavy boost scenarios.

as for lightened flywheel, I've not bothered with one in mine as yet, don't feel the need for one. you can end up with some issues of stalling at road ends when dipping the clutch as there isn't enough weight/ momentum to keep it going.
Standard crank has been seen up to and above 600bhp.
Old 01 May 2012, 09:51 PM
  #7325  
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Had Ryan from Dent-Co/Tint-Co Around this afternoon at work to tint the rears on my car.

Absolutely superb work he's done, & a cracking deal to be had too.

so if anyone's after tinting or dent repair Ryan's your man to do the job, Cant recommend him enough

But Here's the pics

http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986717582/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986717582/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986712726/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986712726/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986709270/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986709270/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/7132789459/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/7132789459/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
Old 01 May 2012, 10:12 PM
  #7326  
dsemuk
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Originally Posted by rob84
The standard rods in the hatch will hold 420bhp all day long but anymore than that I'd be changing them for my own piece of mind.

Block pining, It's alloy pins pressed in around the bores in the block to prevent them moving under heavy boost scenarios.

as for lightened flywheel, I've not bothered with one in mine as yet, don't feel the need for one. you can end up with some issues of stalling at road ends when dipping the clutch as there isn't enough weight/ momentum to keep it going.
Standard crank has been seen up to and above 600bhp.
Thanks for clearing that up.

Sounds like rods, stronger studs & block pinning are on the list of must haves, whilst standard crank and flywheel stay put.

Having Googled Subaru pinned block it all become clear.
Old 01 May 2012, 10:25 PM
  #7327  
rob84
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I could throw one more thing into the pipeline, a closed deck block insert rather than pinning. but costs a little more than the pinning
Old 02 May 2012, 10:03 PM
  #7328  
224
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hey Rob i thought the 2.5 block is good for sub 500 bhp without pinning or closed decking? so either of the above would be kind of overkill for a daily driver running between 400- 450?
Old 02 May 2012, 10:54 PM
  #7329  
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Originally Posted by 224
hey Rob i thought the 2.5 block is good for sub 500 bhp without pinning or closed decking? so either of the above would be kind of overkill for a daily driver running between 400- 450?
500 without pinning, you must be brave lol I wouldn't even try it, you've obviously not seen the effects.

400-420 without pinning would be ok but above that you need to do something
Old 02 May 2012, 11:25 PM
  #7330  
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soz rob what i ment was that i was always told that staying below 500 was generally a good bet with a std 2.5 block, above this no doubt it will fail. my car is running over 450 with no pinning no probs! plus other lads i know with 2.5 engines running around the same power have not had any problems either thats why i asked bud.
PS i have seen the effects of 330bhp (ppp) on my car when it had std internals! piston melted rings disintergrated, block ruined, turbo ruined and lots of bits of broken metal lol....

Last edited by 224; 02 May 2012 at 11:29 PM.
Old 03 May 2012, 03:08 PM
  #7331  
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330s is a complete different kettle of fish to be fair, they are notorious for boost spikes which do kill these things quite quick.

Mine runs un pinned at 420 quite happily but for me next stage I'll be closing the deck and going down the cryogenic route as I'm aiming to run above 500
Old 03 May 2012, 05:01 PM
  #7332  
urban
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Rob - is the 330S map just the same as a PPP map?
Old 03 May 2012, 06:16 PM
  #7333  
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still not sure about selling up or not, just enquired about a gtr.
if i keep for a little longer i am thinking about boosting the performance.
car is currently standard 330s other than a magnaflow.
what is the deal with running meths, is it just a remap or is more needed?

carlos
Old 03 May 2012, 07:01 PM
  #7334  
dsemuk
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Originally Posted by rob84
330s is a complete different kettle of fish to be fair, they are notorious for boost spikes which do kill these things quite quick.

Mine runs un pinned at 420 quite happily but for me next stage I'll be closing the deck and going down the cryogenic route as I'm aiming to run above 500
Ive read about the cryogenic process and it does sound interesting, sounds like some engine components have masses of stresses, which the cryogenic process help remove, or at least reduce.

Would you get just block & heads treated or other components as well?
Old 03 May 2012, 07:55 PM
  #7335  
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Originally Posted by urban
Rob - is the 330S map just the same as a PPP map?
Yes just the same map

Originally Posted by carlpcross
still not sure about selling up or not, just enquired about a gtr.
if i keep for a little longer i am thinking about boosting the performance.
car is currently standard 330s other than a magnaflow.
what is the deal with running meths, is it just a remap or is more needed?

just add to the fuel & remap to suit and away you go mate

carlos
just add to the fuel & remap to suit and away you go mate



Originally Posted by dsemuk
Ive read about the cryogenic process and it does sound interesting, sounds like some engine components have masses of stresses, which the cryogenic process help remove, or at least reduce.

Would you get just block & heads treated or other components as well?
Just the engine Block for the time being unless I change my mind when I start with the build, the crank & rods will be fine. Heads may need some machining work for the bigger profile cams and ported out.
Old 03 May 2012, 09:44 PM
  #7336  
carlpcross
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thanks for the reply rob.
what sort of gains would i get from meths and a remap on bhp, torque and mpg.
who is the best mapper in the north west, south manchester area?

carlos..
Old 03 May 2012, 09:55 PM
  #7337  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
thanks for the reply rob.
what sort of gains would i get from meths and a remap on bhp, torque and mpg.
who is the best mapper in the north west, south manchester area?

carlos..
depends on the ratio you opt for really, 8% originally on mine made 20bhp and 20 ft/lbs 16% made 40 bhp and 50ft/lbs

Not sure who is local to you to be honest, Bob rawle perhaps/ Duncan graham. or if you fancy a good ride out there andy f in Edinburgh
Old 03 May 2012, 10:11 PM
  #7338  
carlpcross
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dont know where i have been for the last year or 2.

so for a £600 ish remap (presume racerom for the extra toys) i will save money everytime i fill up as the meths is cheaper, and at the same time get better performance and economy?

Carlos..
Old 03 May 2012, 10:14 PM
  #7339  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
dont know where i have been for the last year or 2.

so for a £600 ish remap (presume racerom for the extra toys) i will save money everytime i fill up as the meths is cheaper, and at the same time get better performance and economy?

Carlos..
Racerom is brilliant, meths works out 51p a ltr if bought in bulk I save £10 a tankfull running 16% so I get more power, similar economy moves the point of detonation further away than if run on just v-power.
Old 03 May 2012, 10:21 PM
  #7340  
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i take it that running 16% meths is safes/better for the car too?
how noticeable was the difference going from the standard 330s map to the 16% meths map?
Old 03 May 2012, 10:24 PM
  #7341  
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Originally Posted by carlpcross
i take it that running 16% meths is safes/better for the car too?
how noticeable was the difference going from the standard 330s map to the 16% meths map?
well it's 10 ltrs meths to 50 ltrs v-power makes an overall volume of 60ltrs

Oxygen enriched fuel, makes for cooler combustion temps and allows timing to be added to make more power from the fuel. Cant quote figures at each car is different, there was one lad on here with a 330s that made 417bhp 455 ft/bs on meths
Old 04 May 2012, 04:54 PM
  #7342  
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Or so they say, Had to replace the whole housing on mine which retains this filter today as the car triggered a cel p0170 Fuel system bank 1 too lean, Checked fuel pressure Low and behold it was down Quite considerably.

First port of call is the fuel filter to check for blockages, so hunted high and low for a part number for this filter in the hatch, Anyone of you who maybe familiar with the hatch it runs the same system as the legacy and the pump is contained within a canister assy. got the number and apparently should never need to be changed, quick phone call later revealed they have an interval of 60,000 miles. Something not listed down anywere.

anyway down to the job in hand and pulled the unit out this morning all to be revealed when Looking inside.

Old filter unit/housing


you can see inside the two ports on the lh side how black inside it is


Canister does a pretty good job of retaining the crap in the housing
but certainly doesn't look very good at all especially when you pay top dollar for good quality fuel


sample of fuel out of the filter, how bad does that look.


unit assembled and ready to be refitted to the canister lower half


see the fuel inside is spotless.


all refitted and fuel pressure has been resorted to perfection. even though you buy good fuel it can still harbor crap in it as that clearly shows
Old 06 May 2012, 01:26 PM
  #7343  
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Anyone know if a pulley kit for a newage will fit the hatch, or are they different sizes?
Old 06 May 2012, 01:35 PM
  #7344  
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Guys, well after much thought and a few test drives I picked up a 2010 330s on Wednesday. And already the bug to mod has kicked in. Being under warranty I can only do styling mods so need some inspiration for ideas on which front splitter to get.

I like the idea of the sti lip but can't find where to get it from. Not 100% on the ht autos lip but what else is out there?

What front splitters have you got and where did you get your from? Links would be great

Will get some pics of it up soon.
Old 06 May 2012, 02:23 PM
  #7345  
Don Clark
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Originally Posted by rob84

see the fuel inside is spotless.

Rob,

Is that a couple of Broquets lurking in there by any chance ??
Old 06 May 2012, 03:07 PM
  #7346  
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Originally Posted by stevie1982
Guys, well after much thought and a few test drives I picked up a 2010 330s on Wednesday. And already the bug to mod has kicked in. Being under warranty I can only do styling mods so need some inspiration for ideas on which front splitter to get.

I like the idea of the sti lip but can't find where to get it from. Not 100% on the ht autos lip but what else is out there?

What front splitters have you got and where did you get your from? Links would be great

Will get some pics of it up soon.
Im in the same boat, 2010 STi hatch cannot start any modding before the warranty expires.
Old 06 May 2012, 04:27 PM
  #7347  
Don Clark
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Originally Posted by dsemuk
Im in the same boat, 2010 STi hatch cannot start any modding before the warranty expires.

Didn't stop me excuse the boot





Old 06 May 2012, 04:54 PM
  #7348  
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Originally Posted by dsemuk
Im in the same boat, 2010 STi hatch cannot start any modding before the warranty expires.
Didn't worry about that myself, custom map at 18 months old by Duncan, couldn't wait for 3 years! Looking back it was probably the sensible option after the crappy standard map.
Old 06 May 2012, 05:32 PM
  #7349  
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Originally Posted by Don Clark
Didn't stop me excuse the boot





Although I need a hatch rather than the saloon, the 4 door looks great with the subtle spoiler. Even the rear lights look right.
Old 06 May 2012, 06:05 PM
  #7350  
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Don car looks mint mate, that is a sti front splitter if I'm correct. can I ask where did you get it from?


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