08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
#7322
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
OK where to start, I have an STi hatch, (registered 2010), so I dont want to do anything which may invalidate the manufacturers warranty, but once the warranty expires...
I plan to get the engine rebuilt, I dont want a mad 500+ weekend fun car I want a reliable daily driver, perhaps in the long term able to stick with a Cosworth hatch.
What level of engine rebuild should I consider, hopefully I will be starting with a working engine?
I would especially welcome comment from those who have rebuilt or had rebuilt hatch engines.
I plan to get the engine rebuilt, I dont want a mad 500+ weekend fun car I want a reliable daily driver, perhaps in the long term able to stick with a Cosworth hatch.
What level of engine rebuild should I consider, hopefully I will be starting with a working engine?
I would especially welcome comment from those who have rebuilt or had rebuilt hatch engines.
Even a working engine will need some degree of machining work doing to it Unless your very lucky, so that will have to be factored in
Pistons/Headstuds/Racebearings, Uprated oil pump, MLS headgaskets should hold up to 450bhp but Ideally would benefit from better conrods & block pinning. IMHO.
#7323
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The million dollar question is what power level do you plan to run at ?
Even a working engine will need some degree of machining work doing to it Unless your very lucky, so that will have to be factored in
Pistons/Headstuds/Racebearings, Uprated oil pump, MLS headgaskets should hold up to 450bhp but Ideally would benefit from better conrods & block pinning. IMHO.
Even a working engine will need some degree of machining work doing to it Unless your very lucky, so that will have to be factored in
Pistons/Headstuds/Racebearings, Uprated oil pump, MLS headgaskets should hold up to 450bhp but Ideally would benefit from better conrods & block pinning. IMHO.
What is block pinning? Is that something specific to the boxer as the block is in two halves?
I assume the standard crank is OK for a fair bit of power. What about a lightened flywheel on a road car, I know it will let the engine rev better, but does it make the tick-over really lumpy?
From the power point of view I am not looking for big numbers, just reliability.
#7324
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
The standard rods in the hatch will hold 420bhp all day long but anymore than that I'd be changing them for my own piece of mind.
Block pining, It's alloy pins pressed in around the bores in the block to prevent them moving under heavy boost scenarios.
as for lightened flywheel, I've not bothered with one in mine as yet, don't feel the need for one. you can end up with some issues of stalling at road ends when dipping the clutch as there isn't enough weight/ momentum to keep it going.
Standard crank has been seen up to and above 600bhp.
Block pining, It's alloy pins pressed in around the bores in the block to prevent them moving under heavy boost scenarios.
as for lightened flywheel, I've not bothered with one in mine as yet, don't feel the need for one. you can end up with some issues of stalling at road ends when dipping the clutch as there isn't enough weight/ momentum to keep it going.
Standard crank has been seen up to and above 600bhp.
#7325
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Had Ryan from Dent-Co/Tint-Co Around this afternoon at work to tint the rears on my car.
Absolutely superb work he's done, & a cracking deal to be had too.
so if anyone's after tinting or dent repair Ryan's your man to do the job, Cant recommend him enough
But Here's the pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986717582/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986717582/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986712726/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986712726/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986709270/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986709270/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/7132789459/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/7132789459/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
Absolutely superb work he's done, & a cracking deal to be had too.
so if anyone's after tinting or dent repair Ryan's your man to do the job, Cant recommend him enough
But Here's the pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986717582/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986717582/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986712726/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986712726/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986709270/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/6986709270/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/7132789459/http://www.flickr.com/photos/romedition/7132789459/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/romedition/, on Flickr
#7326
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The standard rods in the hatch will hold 420bhp all day long but anymore than that I'd be changing them for my own piece of mind.
Block pining, It's alloy pins pressed in around the bores in the block to prevent them moving under heavy boost scenarios.
as for lightened flywheel, I've not bothered with one in mine as yet, don't feel the need for one. you can end up with some issues of stalling at road ends when dipping the clutch as there isn't enough weight/ momentum to keep it going.
Standard crank has been seen up to and above 600bhp.
Block pining, It's alloy pins pressed in around the bores in the block to prevent them moving under heavy boost scenarios.
as for lightened flywheel, I've not bothered with one in mine as yet, don't feel the need for one. you can end up with some issues of stalling at road ends when dipping the clutch as there isn't enough weight/ momentum to keep it going.
Standard crank has been seen up to and above 600bhp.
Sounds like rods, stronger studs & block pinning are on the list of must haves, whilst standard crank and flywheel stay put.
Having Googled Subaru pinned block it all become clear.
#7328
hey Rob i thought the 2.5 block is good for sub 500 bhp without pinning or closed decking? so either of the above would be kind of overkill for a daily driver running between 400- 450?
#7330
soz rob what i ment was that i was always told that staying below 500 was generally a good bet with a std 2.5 block, above this no doubt it will fail. my car is running over 450 with no pinning no probs! plus other lads i know with 2.5 engines running around the same power have not had any problems either thats why i asked bud.
PS i have seen the effects of 330bhp (ppp) on my car when it had std internals! piston melted rings disintergrated, block ruined, turbo ruined and lots of bits of broken metal lol....
PS i have seen the effects of 330bhp (ppp) on my car when it had std internals! piston melted rings disintergrated, block ruined, turbo ruined and lots of bits of broken metal lol....
Last edited by 224; 02 May 2012 at 11:29 PM.
#7331
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
330s is a complete different kettle of fish to be fair, they are notorious for boost spikes which do kill these things quite quick.
Mine runs un pinned at 420 quite happily but for me next stage I'll be closing the deck and going down the cryogenic route as I'm aiming to run above 500
Mine runs un pinned at 420 quite happily but for me next stage I'll be closing the deck and going down the cryogenic route as I'm aiming to run above 500
#7333
still not sure about selling up or not, just enquired about a gtr.
if i keep for a little longer i am thinking about boosting the performance.
car is currently standard 330s other than a magnaflow.
what is the deal with running meths, is it just a remap or is more needed?
carlos
if i keep for a little longer i am thinking about boosting the performance.
car is currently standard 330s other than a magnaflow.
what is the deal with running meths, is it just a remap or is more needed?
carlos
#7334
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
330s is a complete different kettle of fish to be fair, they are notorious for boost spikes which do kill these things quite quick.
Mine runs un pinned at 420 quite happily but for me next stage I'll be closing the deck and going down the cryogenic route as I'm aiming to run above 500
Mine runs un pinned at 420 quite happily but for me next stage I'll be closing the deck and going down the cryogenic route as I'm aiming to run above 500
Would you get just block & heads treated or other components as well?
#7335
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Yes just the same map
just add to the fuel & remap to suit and away you go mate
Just the engine Block for the time being unless I change my mind when I start with the build, the crank & rods will be fine. Heads may need some machining work for the bigger profile cams and ported out.
still not sure about selling up or not, just enquired about a gtr.
if i keep for a little longer i am thinking about boosting the performance.
car is currently standard 330s other than a magnaflow.
what is the deal with running meths, is it just a remap or is more needed?
just add to the fuel & remap to suit and away you go mate
carlos
if i keep for a little longer i am thinking about boosting the performance.
car is currently standard 330s other than a magnaflow.
what is the deal with running meths, is it just a remap or is more needed?
just add to the fuel & remap to suit and away you go mate
carlos
Just the engine Block for the time being unless I change my mind when I start with the build, the crank & rods will be fine. Heads may need some machining work for the bigger profile cams and ported out.
#7338
dont know where i have been for the last year or 2.
so for a £600 ish remap (presume racerom for the extra toys) i will save money everytime i fill up as the meths is cheaper, and at the same time get better performance and economy?
Carlos..
so for a £600 ish remap (presume racerom for the extra toys) i will save money everytime i fill up as the meths is cheaper, and at the same time get better performance and economy?
Carlos..
#7341
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Oxygen enriched fuel, makes for cooler combustion temps and allows timing to be added to make more power from the fuel. Cant quote figures at each car is different, there was one lad on here with a 330s that made 417bhp 455 ft/bs on meths
#7342
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Or so they say, Had to replace the whole housing on mine which retains this filter today as the car triggered a cel p0170 Fuel system bank 1 too lean, Checked fuel pressure Low and behold it was down Quite considerably.
First port of call is the fuel filter to check for blockages, so hunted high and low for a part number for this filter in the hatch, Anyone of you who maybe familiar with the hatch it runs the same system as the legacy and the pump is contained within a canister assy. got the number and apparently should never need to be changed, quick phone call later revealed they have an interval of 60,000 miles. Something not listed down anywere.
anyway down to the job in hand and pulled the unit out this morning all to be revealed when Looking inside.
Old filter unit/housing
you can see inside the two ports on the lh side how black inside it is
Canister does a pretty good job of retaining the crap in the housing
but certainly doesn't look very good at all especially when you pay top dollar for good quality fuel
sample of fuel out of the filter, how bad does that look.
unit assembled and ready to be refitted to the canister lower half
see the fuel inside is spotless.
all refitted and fuel pressure has been resorted to perfection. even though you buy good fuel it can still harbor crap in it as that clearly shows
First port of call is the fuel filter to check for blockages, so hunted high and low for a part number for this filter in the hatch, Anyone of you who maybe familiar with the hatch it runs the same system as the legacy and the pump is contained within a canister assy. got the number and apparently should never need to be changed, quick phone call later revealed they have an interval of 60,000 miles. Something not listed down anywere.
anyway down to the job in hand and pulled the unit out this morning all to be revealed when Looking inside.
Old filter unit/housing
you can see inside the two ports on the lh side how black inside it is
Canister does a pretty good job of retaining the crap in the housing
but certainly doesn't look very good at all especially when you pay top dollar for good quality fuel
sample of fuel out of the filter, how bad does that look.
unit assembled and ready to be refitted to the canister lower half
see the fuel inside is spotless.
all refitted and fuel pressure has been resorted to perfection. even though you buy good fuel it can still harbor crap in it as that clearly shows
#7344
Guys, well after much thought and a few test drives I picked up a 2010 330s on Wednesday. And already the bug to mod has kicked in. Being under warranty I can only do styling mods so need some inspiration for ideas on which front splitter to get.
I like the idea of the sti lip but can't find where to get it from. Not 100% on the ht autos lip but what else is out there?
What front splitters have you got and where did you get your from? Links would be great
Will get some pics of it up soon.
I like the idea of the sti lip but can't find where to get it from. Not 100% on the ht autos lip but what else is out there?
What front splitters have you got and where did you get your from? Links would be great
Will get some pics of it up soon.
#7345
Scooby Regular
#7346
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guys, well after much thought and a few test drives I picked up a 2010 330s on Wednesday. And already the bug to mod has kicked in. Being under warranty I can only do styling mods so need some inspiration for ideas on which front splitter to get.
I like the idea of the sti lip but can't find where to get it from. Not 100% on the ht autos lip but what else is out there?
What front splitters have you got and where did you get your from? Links would be great
Will get some pics of it up soon.
I like the idea of the sti lip but can't find where to get it from. Not 100% on the ht autos lip but what else is out there?
What front splitters have you got and where did you get your from? Links would be great
Will get some pics of it up soon.
#7347
Scooby Regular
#7349
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts