MOBIL 15w/ 50
#31
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No one is spitting out the dummy pal, just letting the scnet com of what i have been informed of by rcm and ggr. So real your neck in DD. Jeez after this reply im as tetchy as you, you bitch
Good luck with the new build, you narky cow
Good luck with the new build, you narky cow
#34
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Did RCM and GGR actually say to use mobil 15w/50 or did you ask them if it'd be ok and they said it would be fine?
Just interested really as I hardly hear mobil 15w/50 banded around these days and iirc when I first used to come on scoobynet it was quite comon to see it recommended.
#35
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Let's be honest, any decent semi or fully synth. will do for a hard pushed road car, those up above 450 bhp or with a full on TA car may be needing to be a bit more choosy....
imho
dunx
imho
dunx
#36
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Personally sunshine I don't give a toss what you put in your car or what you waste your money on. All I was doing was to try and save YOU some cash by reflecting on my own experience. As said I've used this stuff for years most recently on a 450bhp 2.5 for over 30,000 miles. When I took it apart prior to selling it you'd have been hard pushed to tell the bearings from new ones.
You can turn this on its **** and say what you want. You had the snotty attitude and got the bag on because you got differing opinions. Get over over it you clown. You asked for people's opinions and you got them.
I have no idea what you got so arsey about it. It wasnt as if anyone was saying go and buy some 20/50 mineral oil from asda for £6 for 5 litres.
No crawl off back to your hole you sniveling gob****e
#37
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Thanks for all your positive input DD. Throw around as many insults as you like if it makes you feel good, its funny how your insulting posts are late at night. Just in from the pub, eh pal. Shandy makes a real hero out of you. I'm leaving it at that, cant be dealing with p155 heads.
#40
i have just used this.
(got a few in my garage as a friend works for a VW main dealers and its what they use in all there stuff)
its a 10/40 synthetic but i have a bit of a rattle when cold (probably a bit of piston slap due to the milage so may up it to 10/60 possibly)
any ideas?
(got a few in my garage as a friend works for a VW main dealers and its what they use in all there stuff)
its a 10/40 synthetic but i have a bit of a rattle when cold (probably a bit of piston slap due to the milage so may up it to 10/60 possibly)
any ideas?
#42
thats sort of what i was thinking. its not that bad but i know its there, just from cold so i just take it easy til im up to temp.
good to know my oils ok (sort of got a never ending supply)
Millsy
good to know my oils ok (sort of got a never ending supply)
Millsy
#44
thats what i was thinking. i may have a word with my mate and see if they have a 15/50 or 10/60. if i can get some for free ill changeit and let you know if it makes a difference.
Millsy
Millsy
#46
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#47
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Did RCM and GGR actually say to use mobil 15w/50 or did you ask them if it'd be ok and they said it would be fine?
Just interested really as I hardly hear mobil 15w/50 banded around these days and iirc when I first used to come on scoobynet it was quite comon to see it recommended.
Just interested really as I hardly hear mobil 15w/50 banded around these days and iirc when I first used to come on scoobynet it was quite comon to see it recommended.
#48
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Another consideration is how the bores are lubricated. Certain specs of engine will have piston cooling oil jets, these naturally also double up as lubricating the bores. But even cars with these oil jets should get bore lubrication within a few seconds of the engine firing up. Yet some are still right old slappers (probably due to forged pistons..but hey, it still slaps).
Personally I've had no success going either way with oils. Not just with Subarus, other engine that display piston slap when cold. Just on Subarus its seems to be more noticable and complained about "alot" more, although I do consider it to be a very mechanically noisey engine when compared to, say, a BMW M54 engine, which makes very little general mechanical noise in comparison.
Mind, having said that, if you want to hear real piston slap...you should hear a standard GM LS2 engine on a cold winters day (late monaro/vxr8/corvette engine), its almost embarrasing. :0 Although I've heard worse Rovers (k-series) and yet the owners don't notice it at all
#50
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Ali-B - Interesting read. So you're basically saying there are two opposite theories about the benefit an oil's cold viscosity has on start-up, but neither make much difference? Lol
Last edited by GlesgaKiss; 02 May 2009 at 04:56 PM.
#51
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Its a bit tricky to figure this. The theory goes is that a thicker oil will cling to the bore surfaces longer after engine shut down, and when it thickens out when its cold, it provides a cushion to damp down the noise when the piston hits the bore at the top/bottom of its stoke. However some counter theory goes that a thinner oil will permeate into the cross hatchings of the cylinder bores and avoid being wiped away by the piston rings. Unless the cylinder bore is worn or glazed so there are no hatchings to retain oil regardless of weight (this is partly why you hone bores), and this maybe possibly part of the problem on some engines. Bore wash from excess fueling (i.e such as excessive idling when cold) would be an added factor.
5w-40, 5w-40 oil, 5w40, 5w/40
Silkolene Pro S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Oil
Cheers
Tim
Last edited by oilman; 04 May 2009 at 10:18 PM.
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