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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:55 PM
  #31  
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Well said that man!

Dave - if you like spending money, fit the reground crank, then do the same job again in a few weeks with a second hand crank, then third time lucky with a new one.. job jobbed!
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by daves_v7_sti
joz its money i havent got mate thats i suggested the easy option
Well... is your car off the road? Have you still got wheels?

Is it not poss to save up for it for a month or so? (Honestly, it WILL be worth it).
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:31 AM
  #33  
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I'm not being funny here mate and hopefully I'll come across as the voice of reason.
You've asked what you should do. Lots have people have given you the same answer i.e buy a new crank. Yet you still ask the same question.

Do yourself a favour, heed the advice of the people that know best and buy a new crank.

If you don't you'll f*ck your engine up again and be in the same boat in a couple of weeks time and even shorter of cash than you are now.

Do it properly and buy a brand new crank and bearings.

If you don't you'll only have yourself to blame when it goes belly up.

I'll be the first to say I told you so.

Sorry to be blunt mate but you're just not listening. Just because its nit the answer you wanted to hear doesn't mean people are going to stop saying it.

If anyone advises you to use a reground or a used crank then get them to pay for it and give them the money back after say 5000miles. I don't think you'd get that with a crank that is anything but new.

hopefully the message has finally sunk in.
BUY A NEW CRANK!!!!!
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:38 AM
  #34  
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its all about the money m8
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:52 AM
  #35  
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I'm sure it is mate, been in the same boat several times, hence my build taking over a year so far.

Look at it another way. If you do go for this crank and it fails you'll not only have to buy the crank that you should have bought in the first place but you'll also have to pay for all new seals and gaskets again plus the labour again.

It's a no brainer mate. If you don't buy a new crank it will cost you a whole lot more in the long run.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:56 AM
  #36  
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thanks daz
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 01:45 AM
  #37  
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The engine shop will grind your crank simply because they have the equipment to do it and you gave them a worn crank that should have been binned; They have no concerns over how long it will last, as chances are it WILL last long enough so that failure cannot be attributed to excess journal wear; i.e not their problem (if it was, they wouldn't do it).

The issue of regrinding is the same with grinding Jag AJ16 engine cranks; its just simply not done, which is why you cannot obtain oversize bearings from reputable manufacturers. As the journals are nitrided to harden the surfaces. Once reground they need nitriding again to restore the surface hardness.

I belive the oversize bearing for the EJ20 engine is only meant to be used in the low powered non-turbo engines. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I cannot see any other legitimate reason as to why OS bearing are obtainable for a surface hardened crank in full knowledge that grinding removes the hardened layer.

The bottom line is how long do you want the engine to last between rebuilds?? If its a race/track/rally/hillclimb car thats not running too much BHP where you intend to rebuild every season or yearly, by all means use a ground crank and run a thick 15w-50 oil.

But if you want a road engine to last 100,000miles or to sustain high BHP for longer, (can't have both ) bin that old crank.

Last edited by ALi-B; Feb 11, 2009 at 01:48 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 10:14 AM
  #38  
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thanks ali
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 12:36 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by scooby(puppy power)
just re read that lol need to split block to do main bearings not sure about rod bearings
cheers im pretty sure that if its on the piston end it is possible to change from underneath although i would still probably take engine out and replace all the gaskets and seals anyway as a lot of people have basically said if you want the job done do it right first time or it will cost you more in the long run.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 01:20 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by legacytt
cheers im pretty sure that if its on the piston end it is possible to change from underneath although i would still probably take engine out and replace all the gaskets and seals anyway as a lot of people have basically said if you want the job done do it right first time or it will cost you more in the long run.
you would not be able to change the front bearings on the crank as the oil gallerys cover it
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #41  
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is it worth me buying a good second hand engine
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #42  
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Well I used a reground crank and bearings in the sti with no probs running 2bar and 30k + miles ago.

Some people just don't know what there talking about
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 03:52 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TopStiSportTurbo
...Some people just don't know what there talking about
Tell David at API that, then .

Like lots of things in life, there's always exceptions... But I'm sure the reasons for advocating using a new crank, are based on well founded logic/experience.
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 04:00 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TopStiSportTurbo
Well I used a reground crank and bearings in the sti with no probs running 2bar and 30k + miles ago.

Some people just don't know what there talking about
2 bar sounds like lots of fun, what spec have you, BHP, torque etc
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 05:25 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by TopStiSportTurbo
Well I used a reground crank and bearings in the sti with no probs running 2bar and 30k + miles ago.

Some people just don't know what there talking about

So one person turns out lucky and I get told I don't know what I am talking about........

Work on this principle every time:

There's never enough money to do it right, but there's always enough money to do it twice.

David - don'tknownuffin APi
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 05:33 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by TopStiSportTurbo
Well I used a reground crank and bearings in the sti with no probs running 2bar and 30k + miles ago.

Some people just don't know what there talking about
Yep you're right, jugding by your view my scooby you're one of them.

Tell me what exactly is a DogLeg gearbox????
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by dazdavies
Yep you're right, jugding by your view my scooby you're one of them.

Tell me what exactly is a DogLeg gearbox????
You know what a dog does when it lifts its leg ? Well I suspect that a dogleg gearbox pees all its oil out
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by dazdavies
Yep you're right, jugding by your view my scooby you're one of them.

Tell me what exactly is a DogLeg gearbox????
lol i noticed that earlier on which is why i posted this

Originally Posted by RA Dunk
2 bar sounds like lots of fun, what spec have you, BHP, torque etc
mind you he has got a "BIG TURBO" lol
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #49  
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Default new crank

i can sell you a new genuine subaru crank for £ 320 .. give me a call on 02887 767942 ali.
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 02:11 PM
  #50  
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We'll what ever your opinions it worked for me...... its easy to waste someone elses money isnt it
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #51  
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We'll what ever your opinions it worked for me
SOME people have managed to fall out of airplanes without a parachute and survive the experience, so obviously all those that buy parachutes are wasting their money.....
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by pat
SOME people have managed to fall out of airplanes without a parachute and survive the experience, so obviously all those that buy parachutes are wasting their money.....
Good one Patrick my boy. I was looking for something like that to say, but hadn't the wit.

David APi
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by pat
SOME people have managed to fall out of airplanes without a parachute and survive the experience, so obviously all those that buy parachutes are wasting their money.....
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