Mus

iTrader: (2)

martyn are you going to be sharing that graph with us all

MartynJ

I plan to run it at 2 bar when mapped for 15% meth, and the plan is to give it up to 100hp of Nitrous aswell with the SimTek controlling it.
The T38 on the car has already caused a stir on the MLR with many making 450+ on VPower alone on non Mivec heads.
There have been reports of over 500hp on VPower and 570hp on race fuel being made on Evo 9's.
The Scooby as we all know though can be an entirely different animal, so this will be an interesting couple of months.

For you Mus.



1.2 bar on 97ron only.

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

hookie not trying to hijak the tread but more to steer it back on subject

i am in your position i have a p1 that i wanted to rake to 400 but am a little worried about how long it will last as i wouldlike to do some track days next year so was looking to uprade the internals

as far as i am aware there will not be much in it to build it from 400 to 450 so you have a little room for safety and if you wanted to take it further at a later date you could do

can anyone give a list of parts and costs as ther is so much choice out there i dont want to buy the wrong bits. what is needed and what is a waste of time changing as there are so many opinions on wha to replace

regards

Shaun

Agreed!

As Duncan has said, mine is also a SCDB (2.5). Standard block casing (but with extra machining in special places ), standard cylinder liners..... oh and afaik standard head bolts and standard Subaru Gaskets. Had run circa 2.3bar during 2007 and recently 2.5bar (485bhp/550ftlb at the HUBS - 550/600 est. at the fly). Still in one piece so far.

A lot of irrelevant information being quoted on these engines, which was born out of very early experiences a long time ago. Things have moved on and knowledge has been much improved, even if I do feel a few of us are being the current guinea pigs.

The same goes for what standard position turbos were/are capable of.... things move on.

However.... if I wanted to go for extreme levels of power than I would (or should I say will ) go for as CDB as I possibly could.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

I can feel a Star Trek moment coming on Shaun .... boldly going where .... anyway, I'll get me goat

MartynJ

LMFAO, GOAT ?
Something altogether weird about that statement.
On another note, i take it you won't be interested in the Cosworth 2.5 CDB when it comes next year.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

goat was a deliberate typo Martyn

I probably wouldn't to be honest - the SCDB does the job just fine for the moment but I can never say never. I cant see me needing more power than this puts out for a mix of road/track car - 550/600 is silly territory for the road.... but things change

Shaun

Martyn,
Swindon Race Engines CDB with Cosworth Internals, banged together for 2.6ltrs of abuse.

Duncan,
NEVER say NEVER! That next +100bhp is only a modification away!

Apologies to OP, I digress!

JP4

iTrader: (12)

R4lly - yep sure did get to him!

Mus - gd decision pal - I had a feeling you would not be able to keep away too long.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

or Race Fuel away

Mus

iTrader: (2)

nice graph martyn

steve82 you need to look at new transmision which you will be looking to pay anything from 1500 for a six speed to 3500 for PPG and then clutch twin exedy clutch just over a grand as it will last you very long and will take a lot of abuse, fueling, turbo and it really gets complicated from there. leave a couple of grand a side for uprated oil pump,oil cooler,catch can, better suspension oh and nice big brakes k sport or something thats tried and tested so it will cost you around 8.5 if your lucky the standard block will take 400 but how long for??? the only thing you will be using from a standard P1 is your heads wheels and shell??? and thats only if you want a really reliable car .its always worth spending that bit extra for something thats been tried and tested and reccomended if you take short cuts it will always come back haunt you. like the J.A ware house turbos.lol i know some of them make the power but not all that great.

my current spec was dynoed at 419bhp and to be frank thats more than enough for UK roads in a classic.

im sure harvey can give you some useful advice, as his own and everyday car has been running over 400 for a few years and martinj can tell you more than a thing or two about engines.

im only talking about my experience im sure dynamix and shaun can shed some light on the subject of what its like to live with a beast every day and as they have experienced diffrent power levels

Shaun

Never boring, but then I am looking for the next 100bhp hit and will probably continue to "add" until the car refuses to go in a straight line or I run out of money...... OK, perhaps going in a straight line is not that important!

Duncan I am sure will agree though.... we are both already at a stage (even in a lardy newage) that is bordering on the "too much power for a road car" (yes, you really can have too much ) scenario.

STiFreak

iTrader: (4)

IMHO too much power for the road is when you are spinning the wheels in most gears at WOT. From what I have read of others experiences, this seems to be at around or just under the 500bhp mark. Hence the reason I will settle for a nice 450bhp 480ft.lb any day as a road car.

Shaun

?? Not sure who is spinning all wheels on a Newage (on normal road tyres), because I certainly do not at 500+ (but will on something like cold 888's). Perhaps those people need to spend time and money on the handling side as well then.

JP4

iTrader: (12)

What torque are you running Shaun??.....My new age does tend to spin but Im pretty happy with the standard suspension.


Stevie1982 - Speak to Mark at Lateral/Pat Herborne (22b forum) and they will be able to guide you in what you seek. It's not all about your BHP but Torque which will give you that "punchy feeling" and how the overall power delivery is. Parts will vary depending on your requirements and dept of pocket.

Shaun

JP4,
525 - 550lbft. I have never had any problems with traction on road tyres (480+lbft at 3500rpm).

Geometry settings and anti-lift kits also make a difference.

STiFreak

iTrader: (4)

I've seen more than a few people posting that they are spinning all four tyres at the 500+ mark. Even in my lowly 350bhp newage they will spin in 1st, 2nd or 3rd on damp or cold roads. I am amazed if you can put your foot flat and keep traction at this time of year with your setup. Maybe you need a different mapper

Mus

iTrader: (2)

my ver 4 type r with 419bhp was too lively for me in the damp with t1r tyres, anti roll bars, drop links and tien monoflex. i know tyre choice is very important. so a set 888s are on order in a few months

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Nice one Shaun.
If you can't spin the wheels on a Sport on damp roads you are not trying.

Stevie : I am involved in two P1s at this present time, both just below or just above 400 bhp on standard internals, both on OE drivetrain and while they added power must reduced the service life to a certain extent they are both reliable cars and I expect them to remain like that for a considerable time providing they are driven sensibly, properly fuelled and maintained.
I also ran a 95 WRX Wagon at 385 bhp or thereabouts for over 30,000 miles. It broke the TY752 gearbox quite easily but your car has a TY754 gearbox which has a much stronger casing.

Mus

iTrader: (2)

harvey i'm interested to know if you did any any track days with the above cars or specs. cause that could just proof the scooby myth wrong about how bad there gearboxes are.

i remember when i first bought my car i was so paranoid about launching the thing and changing gears so slowly and carefully it was all standard back then. thank god for PPG now i have nothing to worry about for now.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

I don't spin all four wheels either with 600 lb/ft unless the tractors have been out and left mud on the roads.

Shaun

Oh that's a surprise.... both Duncan and I have track orientated Newage cars (so in theory they are set-up to handle well) which don't suffer from wheel spin. Perhaps we both should choose different mappers then, as wheelspin (or lack of it) obviously means we don't have proper power or we have a crap map!

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

I obviously can't speak for your mapper Shaun but mine is second to none

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

Hi Harvey

that is nice to know thanks, i may leave the rebuild then, do you know if they do any track days in them or is it just for road use?

not including the supporting mods (turbo, injectore etc) but to build the block what sort of money would be involved in a reliable 400-450bhp build? i asume there would not be much difference between the two? and infact whilst it was out being done would it not make sense to build it to cope with 500 does it cost much more to build it for 500bhp compared to 400-450 excluding the supporting mods

what parts are needed and at what price (pm me if you wish)

regards

STiFreak

iTrader: (4)

Hang on Shaun, I'll get you a tissue!
My guess is the type of tyres and suspension settings are the main issue here. I am on Pirelli P-Zero Rosso's and they honestly suck in the cold and will be replaced with something decent once I've killed them. Perhaps you need some LingLongs (or whatever they are called), so you can join the wheel spin club

Guess that based on your guys experiences I need to up my power goals, because clearly the "others" are talking crap.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

I run RE070's ... not known as one of the best cold weather tyres

Why would you want something that will break traction just cos you put your foot down ? This isn't the reason that they are bordering on silly power for the road, it's the effect of a bump mid corner on changing your foot on the throttle and the almost instant effect that can have on the amount of power delivered and how quickly you head into the nearest very very deep ditch around here. Corners approach much quicker, roads run out and speedo's get to silly mph at the blink of an eye.

If my foot is flat to the floor for more than a couple of seconds then I am into illegality regions of speed. Whereas when you have less power, you can theoretically drive flat out a lot more.

STiFreak

iTrader: (4)

Well I certainly wouldn't want something that would break traction every time I floored it, which was sort of my point originally. I have loads of respect for what you and Shaun have achieved with your cars, but I think both of you are also past what is sensible for road use. Duncan, I can completely understand your car spec, because you use it in Time Attack. With that sort of power under your foot, you need to be super careful on the road not to end up doing yourself and others real harm. For my needs (almost all A and B-road driving), I just don't think it is even worth contemplating that level of power. Horses for courses I guess.

Mus

iTrader: (2)

in other word with less power you get more for your money lol

Shaun

For the road you are right to a degree.... it is wasted in nearly all situations, but then Duncan and I had our cars spec'd for competition track use.

400bhp is enough for 95% as a road car in an Impreza in my view.

Mus

iTrader: (2)

shaun i totally agree with you for a classic 400 is enough for the road newage 480 is more than enough for the road.

you and dynmaix must love it knowing all that power is under your right foot you must be quite deceplined for both of you to still have you license, but then again mind you because you guys get to go on so many tracks you get to get it all out of your system lucky for some i guess