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Tuning a uk2000 turbo

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Old May 25, 2009 | 10:22 PM
  #31  
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Can anyone advise me on fuel?

I am having my 2000 X reg (classic) remaped tomorrow, mod's above but was wondering if it could be mapped to standard 95 fuel rather than premium so its more available?

If so, how much bhp difference would i notice?

Reminder of mods are:
Sports cat
full 3" exhaust
K&N Panel Filter
Walbro fuel pump
VF35 turbo

Should i run stanard or premium?
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Old May 25, 2009 | 10:51 PM
  #32  
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probably very littlle, if any power wise lol!

i wouldnt run my car on anything less premium (v-power) like the sticker under the fuel flap tells me to
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:08 PM
  #33  
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Hi, Thanks for your imput but can i ask why?

I was wondering if the car could be tuned to run on 95 so its easier to get hold of?

For example, if your round skeggy there is almost no where for miles that does any type of premium? I always run mine on premium but had to fill up at the weekend with 95 when i could find a garage.

Run rubbish and a lot slower. As much info as possible would be appriciated?

Thanks guys
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:15 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pcressie
I would like some advise on tuning my subaru. The car is my2000 uk turbo with 56000 on the clock. After taking my car for a service the machanic sugested the first thing I should do would be to get a replacement down pipe without the cat on,as this would make a big difference. I then went to get some part's from my local breaker's and asked about this part, to which he replyed " it wouldn't make that much difference". He then went on to warn me that the bottom end's in the my99 and 2000 are a little prone to going if the power is upped. Is this true? I was thinking of a chip/remap, what sort of power will this release? the car is used everyday so it need's to be reliable and not to expensive to run. Basically to some up how can I get my car to 250 bhp and keep it reliable. Sorry for beating around the bush lol
I got a '99 UK Turbo 2000, put a full 3"decat and induction kit on her and was set up like this for ages. I then took her in for remap and asked them to check the MAF readings first, the readings were still in spec (original MAF 100'000 miles) so no need to change every 2yrs etc. If your unsure take it to diagnostic centre and get them to check the readings. When she was rolling road tested she was pumpin out 256BHP!! dont forget thats just decat and induction. I then remapped her and got 273BHP as this is all the standard turbo will do (dependant on vehicle age/milage). If I had known she was pushing 256BHP already i would have put on a VF34 turbo then got her remapped and saved myself another remap fee (upto £200)

These engines, as I believe, should cope with 300/320bhp without mods to internals.

Basically if you want 250bhp then decat and induction bud!
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Hobstar82

These engines, as I believe, should cope with 300/320bhp without mods to internals.
probably a bit more, its not the engine you really gotta worry about. its the gearbox thats the weakest link. your engines still a big 2.0l boxer block. most common weak link in the engine is bottom end bearings.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:35 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by l8_taa
Hi, Thanks for your imput but can i ask why?

I was wondering if the car could be tuned to run on 95 so its easier to get hold of?

For example, if your round skeggy there is almost no where for miles that does any type of premium? I always run mine on premium but had to fill up at the weekend with 95 when i could find a garage.

Run rubbish and a lot slower. As much info as possible would be appriciated?

Thanks guys
you need to do some homework on higher octane fuels to find what you want to know, all i know is they burn cleaner, cooler and more efficiently then cheaper stuff which is better for your engine, right?

there was a good thing on 5th gear about higher octane fuels. maybe worth a watch
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:54 PM
  #37  
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Yes, no poblem to get mapped on whatever RON unleaded you want - 95 is fine (if that means you won't have to go trapesing for miles to get 97/99).

Make sure you turn up at the mapping session with a at least 1/4 tank (prob best to have 1/2 though) of the 95 RON brand that you use most regular. All that will happen is the ign. timing will be held back a bit by the mapper, as the 95 RON has a lower threshold to det than 97-99 RON fuels. This will mean you will lose out a little on potential power/torque gains.

Good news is that you won't promote det because of using a too low RON fuel, as the lowest 95 will have properly been mapped for. This means that should you subsequently use 97 or 99 V-Power when you can then, although you theoretically won't get any extra power, you WILL introduce a bit of headroom against possible det because of its higher octane rating .. It's all good.

But the best thing is - 95 RON or not - a MAPPED car will be transformed in its drivability.

Last edited by joz8968; May 26, 2009 at 10:20 AM.
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Old May 26, 2009 | 05:19 AM
  #38  
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Hi Joz,

Thanks for your advise, anyone else agree? disagree? thanks
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Old May 26, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by l8_taa
...anyone else agree? disagree? thanks
Have faith my friend
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