20G wagon project started at last!
15 November 2008, 05:10 PM
#32
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A couple of pics, it is really frustrating, any support welcome!, especially if you have been there!
still a lot to do before bob rawle has it on the 29th!
still a lot to do before bob rawle has it on the 29th!
15 November 2008, 08:49 PM
#33
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keep on it Sam , the first time you get to drive it in anger all the build stress will be forgotten and you will be left with a I did it all myself sized warm glow 
16 November 2008, 04:20 PM
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Thanks mate, was hoping to fire up the engine today, i did manage to get the breather connectors and an oring i needed but did not get a chance to work on the car, so if there is a dry evening this week i will hopefully finish it off.
18 November 2008, 10:15 PM
#35
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Right then, fully put together this evening and started!, got a funny little whistle, did have a fuel leak, and the power steering pump is making a right racket!, a couple of pics that are of the engine bay, put it together to get it running, still needs tidying finishing etc, like the fpr and all pipework needs shortening and fixing.
I had the power steering res off so i could swap it, is that why the pump is making such a racket?, if i keep topping it up and take the car for a spin it should dissapear right?
Fuel leak is sorted now.
You know the tank vent pipe (evap pipe?)that comes into the bay alongside the fuel feed and return through the bulkhead, what isthe best thing to do with that now that i have installed a catch can and got rid of the carbon canister?, one way valve venting into the bay?
The little steel right angle small tube, pictured below pointing left off the top of the throttle body is now not used what is the best thing to do with that?, blank it off? (it is not causing the whistle, but i assume it will be leaking air from the inlet?)
any help welcome please, cheers
I had the power steering res off so i could swap it, is that why the pump is making such a racket?, if i keep topping it up and take the car for a spin it should dissapear right?
Fuel leak is sorted now.
You know the tank vent pipe (evap pipe?)that comes into the bay alongside the fuel feed and return through the bulkhead, what isthe best thing to do with that now that i have installed a catch can and got rid of the carbon canister?, one way valve venting into the bay?
The little steel right angle small tube, pictured below pointing left off the top of the throttle body is now not used what is the best thing to do with that?, blank it off? (it is not causing the whistle, but i assume it will be leaking air from the inlet?)
any help welcome please, cheers
19 November 2008, 07:43 PM
#39
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Sam, I can't help with the power steering as I've not even touched that....sorry!
You can junk the carbon cannister front left of your car, but before you do steal the non-return valve from the petrol tank breather. Now you can just vent the tank to atmos with the non-return valve inline
iirc the right angle hard pipe on the top of the TB should be connected to purge solenoid, I blanked it off
You can junk the carbon cannister front left of your car, but before you do steal the non-return valve from the petrol tank breather. Now you can just vent the tank to atmos with the non-return valve inline
iirc the right angle hard pipe on the top of the TB should be connected to purge solenoid, I blanked it off
19 November 2008, 08:36 PM
#40
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Cheers mate, here is a long shot, i seem to have an air leak, i see it being one of two things, it is coming from down near where the inlet manifold bolts to the heads on the passenger side, most prominant slight whistling sound on start up, when giving a blip on the throttle, and when switching the engine off. As i took the inlet manifold off to refurb it, obviously the fuel rails had to come off, there are seals which are positioned in the inlet manifold for the injector cups on the rails to sit in, (if that makes sense?!), could the one in the local area possibly be leaking? I was as sure as possible that i made sure the cups sat in the rubber seals as straight and as tight as they should, would fuel leak from here if that is the problem, is there anything i can do before stripping it down again!
20 November 2008, 12:08 PM
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Cheers mate, here is a long shot, i seem to have an air leak, i see it being one of two things, it is coming from down near where the inlet manifold bolts to the heads on the passenger side, most prominant slight whistling sound on start up, when giving a blip on the throttle, and when switching the engine off. As i took the inlet manifold off to refurb it, obviously the fuel rails had to come off, there are seals which are positioned in the inlet manifold for the injector cups on the rails to sit in, (if that makes sense?!), could the one in the local area possibly be leaking? I was as sure as possible that i made sure the cups sat in the rubber seals as straight and as tight as they should, would fuel leak from here if that is the problem, is there anything i can do before stripping it down again!
I had a few issues with the o rings in the fuel rails and it won't cause an air leak it's much more likely to pi$$ fuel all over the place!
If its not the TB then check all the vacuum hoses and fmic junctions before taking the IM off again...good luck
20 November 2008, 05:29 PM
#42
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That could be good news about the rail to inlet o rings, there is no fuel leaking, throttle body bolted tight with new oe gasket, will need to check the whole area on saturday in the daylight!!!, and probably snow!!
22 November 2008, 12:41 PM
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Thought it was head gasket failure, but looks more like i connected the breathers up incorrectly!, am hoping the engine is still ok, and that i can still get i mapped!!
22 November 2008, 01:45 PM
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I made a similar mistake and filled my sump with water...but after a few oil changes most of the water evaporated out of the oil and I have had no problems. Sam, have a look here: 22B Bulletin Board: bolt on stage II mods... there are loads of instructions that should help.
22 November 2008, 03:56 PM
#49
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Ahh i see it in that thread!, i feel a bit better now, just joking, its all such a pain when you put so much work into it!.
Spoke to Bob Rawle earlier, the mapping is still on for me next saturday!, which is nice.
Spoke to Bob Rawle earlier, the mapping is still on for me next saturday!, which is nice.
22 November 2008, 04:21 PM
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After all the fiascos of today, this is how my engine bay looked today, whistling leaks sorted, was the hose from the brake servo to the inlet leaking, (thanks merlin), just need to trim and tie the vacuum hoses, and fix the fpr correctly, and it is completely ready for mr Rawle, at last!!!
One of the main concerns for me when planning to install a 20g on this phase 1 car, was making some good hosing to mate up to the front entry turbo to convert it to a 90 degree inlet, (and not suck in with >1.5 bar of boost) i did this with excellent results, using a samco 63mm 90 degree bend, cut it right down as far as i dare as to not foul the IM and also not to disrupt the flow into the turbo, i connected to that a very tight 90 degree bend made out of cast aluminium which is 63mm also, then used a small piece of 63mm samco to connect up to the HKS aluminium body that was already on my car, then to the maf adapter, works well.
One of the main concerns for me when planning to install a 20g on this phase 1 car, was making some good hosing to mate up to the front entry turbo to convert it to a 90 degree inlet, (and not suck in with >1.5 bar of boost) i did this with excellent results, using a samco 63mm 90 degree bend, cut it right down as far as i dare as to not foul the IM and also not to disrupt the flow into the turbo, i connected to that a very tight 90 degree bend made out of cast aluminium which is 63mm also, then used a small piece of 63mm samco to connect up to the HKS aluminium body that was already on my car, then to the maf adapter, works well.
23 November 2008, 10:25 PM
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24 November 2008, 07:29 AM
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thanks guys, will be sorting the finer detail's out with bob after tomorrow as he is away at the moment, i have managed to get the last slot with him on saturday
27 November 2008, 09:21 PM
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Spoken to Bob, Simtek it is!!! he has got one for me for mapping day this saturday, cant wait, hope the car does me justice!
Can anyone tell me what size allen key is it for the pressure adjuster on the top of a Aeromotive fpr?, i think its between 4 and 5mm? iirc, so my thoughts are that it is imperial or 4.5mm which i do not have, i think the lock nut is imperial also but an 11mm spanner fits, any help appreciated, as i used a slotted screwdriver just to get it set to pre map 3bar.
Can anyone tell me what size allen key is it for the pressure adjuster on the top of a Aeromotive fpr?, i think its between 4 and 5mm? iirc, so my thoughts are that it is imperial or 4.5mm which i do not have, i think the lock nut is imperial also but an 11mm spanner fits, any help appreciated, as i used a slotted screwdriver just to get it set to pre map 3bar.
Last edited by samcowrx; 27 November 2008 at 09:32 PM.