Project P1 600bhp +
I have just clocked my 30,000th (trouble free) mile since RCM built it.
Not bad when considering the following:-
Power produced (Bhp per Cylinder)
Example: Audi R8 4.2 develops 51.7 Bhp per Cylinder
51.7 Audi R8 4.2 Quattro
37.5 Aston Martin Volante
59.7 Ferrari F40
51.7 M3 Alpine
48.3 Lambo Murcielago VT
69.5 Standard Impreza P1
70.3 Mercedes SLS (AMG)
82.1 Porsche 911 Turbo
125.6 2010 Formula One (average)
140.7 My P1
This thread has included a few comments from guys regarding the costs throughout the P1 build, and that it was money being thrown into the wind which pizzed me off to the point I very nearly shut the thread several times.
Other than one "component failure" (Map Sensor) the P1 has not missed a beat. I am not saying the P1 will never break as that would be stupid when running 38 Bhp short of 600.
I can now say to the same guys with the clever comments, you don't sound so fookin clever now, do you?
No dollar wasted here
Not bad when considering the following:-
Power produced (Bhp per Cylinder)
Example: Audi R8 4.2 develops 51.7 Bhp per Cylinder
51.7 Audi R8 4.2 Quattro
37.5 Aston Martin Volante
59.7 Ferrari F40
51.7 M3 Alpine
48.3 Lambo Murcielago VT
69.5 Standard Impreza P1
70.3 Mercedes SLS (AMG)
82.1 Porsche 911 Turbo
125.6 2010 Formula One (average)
140.7 My P1
This thread has included a few comments from guys regarding the costs throughout the P1 build, and that it was money being thrown into the wind which pizzed me off to the point I very nearly shut the thread several times.
Other than one "component failure" (Map Sensor) the P1 has not missed a beat. I am not saying the P1 will never break as that would be stupid when running 38 Bhp short of 600.
I can now say to the same guys with the clever comments, you don't sound so fookin clever now, do you?
No dollar wasted here

You also have to take into account cost pro-rata per cylinder and I think, if my maths serves me well, that your's Clive is the most cost effective.
Except for the F1 which would give a spare million left to spend on some little extras.
I have just clocked my 30,000th (trouble free) mile since RCM built it.
Not bad when considering the following:-
Power produced (Bhp per Cylinder)
Example: Audi R8 4.2 develops 51.7 Bhp per Cylinder
51.7 Audi R8 4.2 Quattro
37.5 Aston Martin Volante
59.7 Ferrari F40
51.7 M3 Alpine
48.3 Lambo Murcielago VT
69.5 Standard Impreza P1
70.3 Mercedes SLS (AMG)
82.1 Porsche 911 Turbo
125.6 2010 Formula One (average)
140.7 My P1
This thread has included a few comments from guys regarding the costs throughout the P1 build, and that it was money being thrown into the wind which pizzed me off to the point I very nearly shut the thread several times.
Other than one "component failure" (Map Sensor) the P1 has not missed a beat. I am not saying the P1 will never break as that would be stupid when running 38 Bhp short of 600.
I can now say to the same guys with the clever comments, you don't sound so fookin clever now, do you?
No dollar wasted here
Not bad when considering the following:-
Power produced (Bhp per Cylinder)
Example: Audi R8 4.2 develops 51.7 Bhp per Cylinder
51.7 Audi R8 4.2 Quattro
37.5 Aston Martin Volante
59.7 Ferrari F40
51.7 M3 Alpine
48.3 Lambo Murcielago VT
69.5 Standard Impreza P1
70.3 Mercedes SLS (AMG)
82.1 Porsche 911 Turbo
125.6 2010 Formula One (average)
140.7 My P1
This thread has included a few comments from guys regarding the costs throughout the P1 build, and that it was money being thrown into the wind which pizzed me off to the point I very nearly shut the thread several times.
Other than one "component failure" (Map Sensor) the P1 has not missed a beat. I am not saying the P1 will never break as that would be stupid when running 38 Bhp short of 600.
I can now say to the same guys with the clever comments, you don't sound so fookin clever now, do you?
No dollar wasted here

Give me a highly tuned p1 (or any Subaru) over a supercar anyday no matter what the cost may be.
May not be as flash but from my experience of the p1 it sure is a hell of a lot more fun when pulling away from them!!
May not be as flash but from my experience of the p1 it sure is a hell of a lot more fun when pulling away from them!!
Yep, agree with that Scooby Hoo.
Stealthy55: thanks mate, & yes RCM are so very good.
Paul: totally agree. I remember one guy said " if I was spending that sort of money I would go and buy a 911 Turbo" ?? If I wanted a 911 Turbo I would have gone and bought a friggen 911 Turbo.
I have learned that I can sit here all day writing about how well the P1 drives or I could make 1000 videos. It's when you sit in the passenger seat you very quickly realize what it's all about.
Having more fun with the car now, events, track days etc and it's these that make me realize what level the P1 is now at.
There are plenty of Scoobies out there that are quicker, however (with full respect), hardly any are used as a daily driven car & most are stripped out.
Forget the strip, it was not built for that.
From day one at RCM we sat down and discussed what I wanted the end result to be. I had two priorities, One: to keep it looking as original as possible. Two: make it as fast as fuc*.
They achieved both to an amazing degree.
On a realistic scale it drives probably 5 times better than it looks.
(most recent pics)



Concluded at 435.5 Bhp per ton / 499 ft/lb / 499.9 @ wheels / 562.8 @ fwheel.
Boosts @ 2.2
Limited to 8000 rpm
6th @ 8K = 197mph
0-60 & back to zero 6.0 seconds or less. (Next video)
Project finished.
GT35 billet wheel? / NOS? ........... na
Stealthy55: thanks mate, & yes RCM are so very good.
Paul: totally agree. I remember one guy said " if I was spending that sort of money I would go and buy a 911 Turbo" ?? If I wanted a 911 Turbo I would have gone and bought a friggen 911 Turbo.
I have learned that I can sit here all day writing about how well the P1 drives or I could make 1000 videos. It's when you sit in the passenger seat you very quickly realize what it's all about.
Having more fun with the car now, events, track days etc and it's these that make me realize what level the P1 is now at.
There are plenty of Scoobies out there that are quicker, however (with full respect), hardly any are used as a daily driven car & most are stripped out.
Forget the strip, it was not built for that.
From day one at RCM we sat down and discussed what I wanted the end result to be. I had two priorities, One: to keep it looking as original as possible. Two: make it as fast as fuc*.
They achieved both to an amazing degree.
On a realistic scale it drives probably 5 times better than it looks.
(most recent pics)
Concluded at 435.5 Bhp per ton / 499 ft/lb / 499.9 @ wheels / 562.8 @ fwheel.
Boosts @ 2.2
Limited to 8000 rpm
6th @ 8K = 197mph
0-60 & back to zero 6.0 seconds or less. (Next video)
Project finished.
GT35 billet wheel? / NOS? ........... na
[QUOTE=SkullFudge;9374699]I have just clocked my 30,000th (trouble free) mile since RCM built it.
Not bad when considering the following:-
Power produced (Bhp per Cylinder)
Example: Audi R8 4.2 develops 51.7 Bhp per Cylinder
51.7 Audi R8 4.2 Quattro
37.5 Aston Martin Volante
59.7 Ferrari F40
51.7 M3 Alpine
48.3 Lambo Murcielago VT
69.5 Standard Impreza P1
70.3 Mercedes SLS (AMG)
82.1 Porsche 911 Turbo
125.6 2010 Formula One (average)
140.7 My P1
This thread has included a few comments from guys regarding the costs throughout the P1 build, and that it was money being thrown into the wind which pizzed me off to the point I very nearly shut the thread several times.
Other than one "component failure" (Map Sensor) the P1 has not missed a beat. I am not saying the P1 will never break as that would be stupid when running 38 Bhp short of 600.
I can now say to the same guys with the clever comments, you don't sound so fookin clever now, do you?
No dollar wasted here
[/QUOT
100% with you mate, had a few similar comments and time is the only judge. My car is now in progress at RCM so thought i would have another read on your progress. Looking good
have you worked out cost of fuel for all that use
lol you must be mad
its great to see one of these cars used.
Not bad when considering the following:-
Power produced (Bhp per Cylinder)
Example: Audi R8 4.2 develops 51.7 Bhp per Cylinder
51.7 Audi R8 4.2 Quattro
37.5 Aston Martin Volante
59.7 Ferrari F40
51.7 M3 Alpine
48.3 Lambo Murcielago VT
69.5 Standard Impreza P1
70.3 Mercedes SLS (AMG)
82.1 Porsche 911 Turbo
125.6 2010 Formula One (average)
140.7 My P1
This thread has included a few comments from guys regarding the costs throughout the P1 build, and that it was money being thrown into the wind which pizzed me off to the point I very nearly shut the thread several times.
Other than one "component failure" (Map Sensor) the P1 has not missed a beat. I am not saying the P1 will never break as that would be stupid when running 38 Bhp short of 600.
I can now say to the same guys with the clever comments, you don't sound so fookin clever now, do you?
No dollar wasted here
[/QUOT100% with you mate, had a few similar comments and time is the only judge. My car is now in progress at RCM so thought i would have another read on your progress. Looking good
have you worked out cost of fuel for all that use
lol you must be mad
its great to see one of these cars used. Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
From: MY 10s blobeye 10.87@132 2.35/TO4Z next
Hi Steve
that's dead true.
Now that 93% of my mates own Scoobies
(with many being the big power fellas) it's made me realize how many different routes there are to various power levels.
Could not agree more with your comment. For "reliable" serious power your approach from the start can never be "is there a cheaper option?" (for basically every part), but rather "what the best available?" and that is the only way forward. Weather it's a self build or built by tuners it's the only way.
Looking back its not big bucks up to about 400 - 430ish, BUT if you intend serious power from the start then the initial build of the motor will be a lot more expensive using the proper stuff.
In my case it got to a certain power level, then the costs are diverted from power to transmission, then suspension, then brakes & clutch and then you start on the power again.
The biggest nightmare I had when knowing when to stop. I had full intensions to carrying on. A bigger turbo and the RCM NOS kit was next in my head but it was Olly that pulled me aside and said that they felt the P1 was at the optimum bearing in mind its my every day car, and they were not wrong.
If the car was any faster it wouldn't be funny.
Throwing a 600 + P1 around the lanes would be dangerous.
that's dead true.Now that 93% of my mates own Scoobies
(with many being the big power fellas) it's made me realize how many different routes there are to various power levels. Could not agree more with your comment. For "reliable" serious power your approach from the start can never be "is there a cheaper option?" (for basically every part), but rather "what the best available?" and that is the only way forward. Weather it's a self build or built by tuners it's the only way.
Looking back its not big bucks up to about 400 - 430ish, BUT if you intend serious power from the start then the initial build of the motor will be a lot more expensive using the proper stuff.
In my case it got to a certain power level, then the costs are diverted from power to transmission, then suspension, then brakes & clutch and then you start on the power again.
The biggest nightmare I had when knowing when to stop. I had full intensions to carrying on. A bigger turbo and the RCM NOS kit was next in my head but it was Olly that pulled me aside and said that they felt the P1 was at the optimum bearing in mind its my every day car, and they were not wrong.
If the car was any faster it wouldn't be funny.
Throwing a 600 + P1 around the lanes would be dangerous.
Last edited by SkullFudge; May 2, 2010 at 02:12 AM.
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
From: MY 10s blobeye 10.87@132 2.35/TO4Z next
lol that side exhaust look so cool. Looking forward to seeing this babe doing some bitchin
It's been a long time since I opened this little thread 
I feel I am now in a position to mention something on Methanol used in an everyday road car, as I have been running on 20% Meths for a long time now and have filled up 51 full tanks on 20%.
We have not had the benefit of seeking advice from anyone who has run Meths in an every day road car for a long period, so in some ways my poor little baby has been the guinea pig.
Many P1's have or are converting to a Meths % now & without any doubt is the cheapest form of power gain I have experienced.
A statement often heard about Meths is corrosion.
This has proved untrue as all fuel rails, injectors, pumps, filters & fuel lines have not been coated or received any special treatment and nothing has corroded or failed due to a constant flow of Meths.
I have read everything I can find on using Meths, and I have been in contact with leading fuel research companies and the only metals affected are the oxide coatings that normally protects aluminium from corrosion:
I have recently experienced my first problem related to Meths & it was my mistake.
The most important issue to remember about using meths is to keep your store of meths air tight. I have 45 gallon drums delivered (210 Ltrs) which includes a plastic pump thats inserted into the drum, and I never bunged the end of the pump nozzle thinking that condensation would form condensation resulting in the Meths drawing the water from the air. Unfortunately Meths is extremely good at this.
What I should have done was to seal the end of the pump every time I used it.
This (over a long period) lead to my car running on VPower, Meths & a small % of water.
It also resulted in the Meths sinking to the bottom of my fuel tank causing the car to eventually start on 100% Meths.
This was proved when RCM drained the (full) fuel tank & system and the contents clearly suggested this.
The drum in the picture clearly indicates the Meths at the bottom.
The now empty drum (left) was also filled, but did not contain any Meths.


This picture shows the side products of using "non virgin Meths"
It's important to order "Virgin Methanol". If you contact your supplier asking for just "Methanol" it will lead to problems long term.
DMC is a petrochemical by-product (di-methyl carbimide) associated with recovered methanol rather than virgin.
Generally speaking, recovered methanol will also contain a spectrum of other SPs (side products)including toluene, benzene, phenol, ethanol etc.
This would, in principle, certainly account for unstable engine performance.

I feel I am now in a position to mention something on Methanol used in an everyday road car, as I have been running on 20% Meths for a long time now and have filled up 51 full tanks on 20%.
We have not had the benefit of seeking advice from anyone who has run Meths in an every day road car for a long period, so in some ways my poor little baby has been the guinea pig.
Many P1's have or are converting to a Meths % now & without any doubt is the cheapest form of power gain I have experienced.
A statement often heard about Meths is corrosion.
This has proved untrue as all fuel rails, injectors, pumps, filters & fuel lines have not been coated or received any special treatment and nothing has corroded or failed due to a constant flow of Meths.
I have read everything I can find on using Meths, and I have been in contact with leading fuel research companies and the only metals affected are the oxide coatings that normally protects aluminium from corrosion:
I have recently experienced my first problem related to Meths & it was my mistake.
The most important issue to remember about using meths is to keep your store of meths air tight. I have 45 gallon drums delivered (210 Ltrs) which includes a plastic pump thats inserted into the drum, and I never bunged the end of the pump nozzle thinking that condensation would form condensation resulting in the Meths drawing the water from the air. Unfortunately Meths is extremely good at this.
What I should have done was to seal the end of the pump every time I used it.
This (over a long period) lead to my car running on VPower, Meths & a small % of water.
It also resulted in the Meths sinking to the bottom of my fuel tank causing the car to eventually start on 100% Meths.
This was proved when RCM drained the (full) fuel tank & system and the contents clearly suggested this.
The drum in the picture clearly indicates the Meths at the bottom.
The now empty drum (left) was also filled, but did not contain any Meths.
This picture shows the side products of using "non virgin Meths"
It's important to order "Virgin Methanol". If you contact your supplier asking for just "Methanol" it will lead to problems long term.
DMC is a petrochemical by-product (di-methyl carbimide) associated with recovered methanol rather than virgin.
Generally speaking, recovered methanol will also contain a spectrum of other SPs (side products)including toluene, benzene, phenol, ethanol etc.
This would, in principle, certainly account for unstable engine performance.
Last edited by SkullFudge; Oct 4, 2010 at 09:50 PM.
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 2
From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Never had a problem in two 45gallon drums worth but i always remove the pump from the drum.
Sorry to read of your issue clive
Car looking good
Simon
Sorry to read of your issue clive
Car looking good
Simon
Interesting read about your methanol findings. I am too personally running 20% methanol, but only buy in 25 litre containers, with a tap which is obviously closed when I'm not pouring the meths. Would this allow air to seep in? Surely if it did I'd have some meths coming out as the tap is at the bottom of the container?
Also, I use JennyChem for methanol is this virgin or DMC? Seems to be running fine so far.. 373bhp from a VF35
Also, I use JennyChem for methanol is this virgin or DMC? Seems to be running fine so far.. 373bhp from a VF35
ScoobyDoo:
Yes, your way is a good method mate. I've gone down the 25 Ltr route now and I have been assured that the durations whilst lid is removed will be ok. Constant access to the air is what ***** the Meths.
I think Regular Meths is around the 99.3%, whilst Virgin is 99.8 ? (somewhere around those figures.
F1:
It certainly has not put me off using it.
Yes, I do run on 20% Meths everyday and have been for nearly a year.
We have found no problems that relate to constant use of Meths. The problem that I had was my fault as it was stored incorrectly as mentioned in my previous post.
And yes I would most certainly recommend it.
When I first used meths to be honest it didn't feel THAT much quicker. You instantly recognise it's quicker but not the same as going rotated for instance.
It was running around the 460 Bhp mark on VPower and although 561 was achieved on 20% on the dyno I was running the car at 520 - 525 on the street.
It's when you come off Meths you realise how much faster it is on Meths.
Due to a recent mapping session I am currently running at 540 Bhp.
Yes, your way is a good method mate. I've gone down the 25 Ltr route now and I have been assured that the durations whilst lid is removed will be ok. Constant access to the air is what ***** the Meths.
I think Regular Meths is around the 99.3%, whilst Virgin is 99.8 ? (somewhere around those figures.
F1:
It certainly has not put me off using it.
Yes, I do run on 20% Meths everyday and have been for nearly a year.
We have found no problems that relate to constant use of Meths. The problem that I had was my fault as it was stored incorrectly as mentioned in my previous post.
And yes I would most certainly recommend it.
When I first used meths to be honest it didn't feel THAT much quicker. You instantly recognise it's quicker but not the same as going rotated for instance.
It was running around the 460 Bhp mark on VPower and although 561 was achieved on 20% on the dyno I was running the car at 520 - 525 on the street.
It's when you come off Meths you realise how much faster it is on Meths.
Due to a recent mapping session I am currently running at 540 Bhp.
I get mine from Trinity Research ltd. in Lymm, Lancs. WA13 9BY
99.9% pure Methanol for biodiesel production
20 litres= £14 inc VAT
25 litres = £17.50 inc VAT
By collection, open to the general public on saturday mornings only, untill midday.
99.9% pure Methanol for biodiesel production
20 litres= £14 inc VAT
25 litres = £17.50 inc VAT
By collection, open to the general public on saturday mornings only, untill midday.
I bought mine from Trinity Research but got it delivered
205l worked out at £125 inc delivery
Trinity research
205l worked out at £125 inc delivery
Trinity research
Sorry mate, yer, as above really 
I went to Jennychem and spent an hour asking questions & finding out info & I'm pretty sure Jennychem only sell reclaimed Meths.
When I mentioned virgin meths they seemed confused??
Trinity is the way forward. I've been in contact with fuel research boffs & there & they really know what it's all about.

I went to Jennychem and spent an hour asking questions & finding out info & I'm pretty sure Jennychem only sell reclaimed Meths.
When I mentioned virgin meths they seemed confused??
Trinity is the way forward. I've been in contact with fuel research boffs & there & they really know what it's all about.
Many do buy from Jennychem Stu and their fuel is not a problem. My problem was from leaving the Meths open to the elements.
They do only sell one form of Meths though. They were not able to give me a choice of Meths which suggests they don't sell virgin.




