scoobynutt

question for u . did u send the block of to be machined before u had the pistons if so then its going to have to go back again as the pistons will have a specific bore clearance and u really have to get that right

71/200

iTrader: (2)

WTF, i agree with Daz here, if you dont have a ramp then its far easier to pull the engine to change the clutch rather than struggle with the box. ******

Sorry to impose on your thread mate, going well but did you hone to piston?

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well i went to fit the bearings today but the thrust bearings was wrong size, but cdf racing are coming up trumps and sending me a new set, slightly wider. top bloke. i have however fitted the pistons into the block. now im waitin for the bearings so i can check all my clearances with plastigauge. then if all its good, rods in and connect to pistons.

while im waiting, as i found out my heads r sti v4, im going to clean the soot deposits off and knife edge. not porting as such, as with sti head they flow brilliantly, just going to clean up, give it a helping hand.

porting the standard headers aswell when i get time.

also decided to paint the block silver and heads blue along with inlet manifold and sump.

decieded to use a cometic 1.3mm gasket so i get good clearance between piston and valves.

what i will say, is the more i do., the more worried i get. that il miss something important or forget what bolts go where etc. but it well worth the anxiety lol

il post pics asap

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

bearings showed up, and a few problems with crank to bearings clearances, hitting a brick wall for last 2 days.

any1 help at all, feel like giving up right now. heres my measuments

thrust postion 5 = 0.048 approx
bearing 4 = 0.045
bearing 3 =0.047 approx
bearing 2 =0.045
bearing 1 = 0.040

aprrox = measuring gauge does not go low enough to measure

iv been told i need 0.010 to 0.030 mm, 0.040 is Subaru's quoted limit. Thrust bearing clearance is 0.030 to 0.115, limit 0.25mm.

cant see how to alter the clerance as once block is torqued there is no adjustment.

to measure i applied the plastigauge length ways across the crank journals and fitted 2nd half of block over and torqued down 47nm on main block bolts and 25 on small 10mm bolts. follwoing correct sequences

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well more porgress, rods in, block torqued, gugeons pins in and surclips and it all moves up n down smoothly

philS scooby

iTrader: (2)

looks a mint project mate, how much for the pistons and rods, you timing it and torqein the heads your self

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well from cdf, the bearings, arp bolts, manley rods, wiseco pistons and cometic gaskets came to 935, the rods and pistons were about 550 - 600 ish. im planning on fitting all the heads etc myself, not 100% on timing as there is 2k just under my bonnet now, dont want it do go boom. but il probs end up doing it and taking my time, tunring it all over by hand and chedking the the timing marks etc.

what i have it it hurt my back fitting it all in last nite, think iv pulled a muscle, lol in agony now.

next stage is to paint block and heads, and also clean heads up, free from deposits and also re seat valves with some paste, help them sit better.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

only got two pics, one is all rods in and if u look close the gasket sealer is in place.

the 2nd is engine on its stand, all gudgeon pins and clips in place.





also quick thanks you to zen performace for spot on advice and silent running and matt578.

also recommend anyone attempting this to downloads a good pdf manual. there is one avalible from this site at: -

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ml#post8026741

thanks to slipstream uk

i opted for the 2002 model. has all the diagrams, torques etc for engine

samcowrx

Nice thread mate, keep it up!

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

crank seal has been put in, oil pumps and started re grinding valves into place, only done four, finish off 2moz, arp studs also in place.



more pics 2moz

minty

iTrader: (1)

this is a great inspiration to me as i have a damaged engine that i have got to strip down and re-build and i think i'm going to attack it over the xmas holiday period. (much to the missus displeasure!!)

So whats the shopping list reccomended for a decent re-build .......

-Forged Pistons...... wiseco pistons ??
-Rods.......... manley rods ??
-Crank.........
-Bearings......... ACL ??
-Gaskets Set.........
-Cam Belt.........
-Oil Pump........ RCM ??

not much change out of 2k i guess unless i can find them cheaper??

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

finally re seated all 16 valves and all locked back in. cleaning sump and hears tomorro in work and fitting tomorrow night, il post more pics then. also got a new water pump gasket on order as the manual states.

things are slowly progressing, i think the hardest parts r now over as most of other bits are just bolt on.

Matt578

-Forged Pistons...... wiseco pistons
-Rods.......... manley rods or K1
-Crank......... Standard
-Bearings......... ACL Big end and mains
-Gaskets Set......... genuine subaru, cometic head gaskets
-Cam Belt......... gates or genuine
-Oil Pump........ RCM

Would be my budget choices.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well heads and sump went on, fitted camshafts and disaster, as i rotated them slighly a part on the camshatf hits the arp bolts and stops its rotating, does this on all 4. so the arp studs which should only be hand tight r full of s**t. they need to be put in about 3 mm more, so all has to come off 2 go bk on waste of a night.

here are a few pics b4 distaster struck

minty

iTrader: (1)

dont worry tomorrow you will be a master at it an be able to do it blind folded. I always find i seem to do it better second time around, just make sure you dont rush it and do it all as you have done....chin up fella

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

thanks miny mate, just removed heads 1 min ago ready for tomorro, didnt wanna leave gaskets torqued up. dunno y, just had a weird feeling, lol, well take two, no doubt half the time taken aswell

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

heads all bk on after alot of bother with 2 studs and nuts, but saved them after hrs of work. pust 4 cams in, buts as u can see in the pics below 2 nuts snaped when tightening 2 20nm, last 2. 1 bit of thread in head, but il soprt that with drill and extractors and order 2 new, but so far so good.

on to manifold and parallel fuel mod and heat wrap headers

Matt578

I snapped mine too, easy enough to get out some ej20 heads have 6mm bolts on the cam caps closest to the timing belt instead of 8mm. if thats the case on your heads the torque settings are lower for those 8 bolts.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

few probelsm getting 2nd bolt out, gotta send head off 2 be repaired and have new hole tapped to size and also fitting a new shell, looks like head bk off and waits for its return.

now im building fuel mod and painting manifold, came covers and rocker covers in work, will paint heads and block when head returns for engineers

steveorangewrx

Great thread m8. Hopefully the head will be sorted, if you do end up needing a cap then I do have it so just give me a shout. Keep up the good work.

silent running

Keep up the good work!

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well head is off again ready 2 be sent away. manifold is stripped and waiting on paint to arrive. going for blue manifold, not everyones cuppa tea but i love blue il post some pics when head is back and iv painted things up

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Looking real good, keep it up..

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

bad news, head is beyond repair, so im now looking for a version 4 head RH-B. Car is now on hold till i can source one. Not very happy now, so who knows if it will run again, way im feeling, i wanna break it and get some money back.

see how the next week or so pans out in reqards to soucring the head.

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Mate you will possibly find that the WRX head castings are exactly the same as long as they're from the same sort of year/type.

Just transfer your valvetrain from your V4 STI heads to the WRX head and bingo a head for £30 to £50. Check Flea Bay fella.

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well thanks to lazy boy, sn member who live local, iv had 2 wrx v4 heads. they are currently attached to the engine in the boot of my work horse mondeo.

later tonight, myself and a mate are stripping down the engine, so its all back on track. im checking the clearances before i remove the cams., then its check the heads, clean, and hopefully fit onto engine monday night.

also looking forward 2 seeing what cam, valves and springs it has, as theres been a debate in general tech of my current setup. il post pics of strip down and result of cams etc tonight

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

well after a late start and late finish, i eventually got heads off engine, and striped the head. It is a bog stabndard wrx v4, cams, valves etc. compared to my heads which i now kno after measuring and re measuring have sti cams, valves but a strange 51 / 52mm spring, on wrx shim over bucket.

started painting my rocker covers this evening and manifold has been stripped ready for cleaning in parts machine in work with new head.

I will then clean valve seats up, re gring sti valves into place and fit cams ready for clearance checks. i also now have 16 spare shims, so im hoping il have what i need 2 get correct clearance, which i believe are 0.2mm inlet and 0.25 exhaust.

Having check the LH B head as its all assemble, the ex clearances are spot on, where has the inlet are extremely tight. i think this is due to regrinding valves, so valves r sitting higher in head slightly.

heres a few pictures of rockers covers, manifold, new head and WRX cams and valves removed from new head. as u can see one cast line through cam R3IN, and no IH EH on valves.

The Stitcher

iTrader: (12)

looking good fella thats the same colour i bought to paint my covers ect

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

blue isnt everyones taste, but im sck of seeing red

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Looking good Matt Keep it Up!

Baly