WRX Forged Rebuild
 

Finally started stripping my engine to remove from car. removed rads, air con pump, alternator, inlet manifold, wireing loom. took about 2 hours.

tomorrow im removing turbo, gearbox bolts, headers and hopefully get engine on bench ready for strip down. unsure of power yet, need to inspect damage if any to bottom end. car still run fine, only done 3000 miles tops with slap.

below are pics of what iv done today. il keep it posted as often as i can

please feel free to give and pointers as i strip engine and start rebuild. il be doing all the work myself over the enxt few months.

intention is to forge bottom end ready for more power and get car running with fmic, apexi fc, induction, exhaust, bigger inj and uprated pump. removing air con totally. run car and add more power mods as the chassis gets uprated.

so here it goes :)

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00026.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00027.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00029.jpg

good luck fella :thumb:

cheers, so far so good, nice n straight forward. im not looking forward to the enge stripping, knowing whats good, what too use and minor tweaks that can be done like knife edgin to help. may take that part to a specialist. also info on grinding cranks, peaple say it good, otheres bad, the car isnt used for any race or track days. so a bit confused. but i av nothing but time 2 do some reasearch on it

I personally woulis thing d not use a regrind crank mate, the hardened surface on the crank

ok, i got the engine out today, struggled getting the turbo off but after a cuppa tea cracked. engine is now on bench ready for stripping.

had a look above both head and there is cross hatching the length of the block, does this mean i have a cdb. not sure if im lookin at the correct hatching, il av 2 post a pic.

well here is the empty engine bay and engine on my hoist.

il post as i strip engine down, any feedback, help please dont hesitate to post, thanks

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00032.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00030.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00031.jpg

Read up on compressing the tensioner while its off the car, and also on getting the gudgion pins out, Get a 14mm Hex Key and 12mm Hex Key.

If you want any advice my msn is Mattchurch@inbox.com, I just fully rebuilt mine and got picture of all the steps.

best of luck mate,
like you have got a project thread going :thumb:
just done the same mysef ,engines in just finihing bits off.

ok, in the morning, when i drag myself from bed, my main aim of the day is to split my block and check for any damage to make decisions on internals, whether to bore and not, new crank or not. im hoping i dont need to over size too 92.5 but that maybe the safest option. ive also decieded to polish as much as possible myself, it may not be professional but im sure it will help, also gonna knife edge. any other touches people think i could do, please let me kno.

so if anyone can shed some light on the best methods and tools to use please reply.

so as soon the block is split and clean all the small jobs will be done, the little differences while i get a bit more cash together for my wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings and cossy gaskets ready for the build.

im a bit unsure of any other seals, o rings i shuld defo replace, so again, any help, very greatful.

lets hope i post 2moz evening with pics of a happily split block :)

I got a bottom end gasket set off ebay for 50 quid, its got all the block half seals including the front and rear crank seals

ok, i finished the strip down at 7.30 :) can see slight scoring on 2 pistons, but i have yet to clean them all in work so i can examine them furthur. wasnt a hard job, made my own gudgeon pin removal tool :smug:

took the best part of 5 hours to take everything off and label. a trip to halfords for a 14mm hexagon socket for the gudgeon pin plugs.

but im very happy so far, feel a nice sense of achievement in taking it all apart.

Now i have the tedious wait to get a bit more cash together to order parts and in the mean time the finer details and clean up before the build up :wonder:

heres a few pics of my days work.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00040.jpg
putting engine on bench

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00041.jpg
covers removed, timing belt was changed 3000 miles ago tops, doesnt look very well

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00042.jpg
iffy looking (new :Suspiciou ) timing belt

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00043.jpg
Heads off, revealed open deck block

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00045.jpg
put every back together finger tight to keep in order

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00046.jpg
Both heads on floor

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00050.jpg
Leaving garage for some food

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00051.jpg
Sump and baffle removed

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00052.jpg
Split block, crank and pistons all set out on bench

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00053.jpg
Crank and pistons

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00054.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00055.jpg
Both halfs of block

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00056.jpg
some bits iv taken off

Good job mate :)

took engine too work for cleaning. had a interesting chat with the top forman mechanic.made me aware the crank has been lightned an balanced before, as you can see in the pic, its had holes drilled for balancing and edges have been schamfered for lightening.

the rods and pistons also dont look standard, cant find ant part numbers on there. does have a UJ i think logo on there. nothing on rods, only no 60.

so im really confused. i kno my crank is fine, needs a slight polish.

i even have the cross hatching on my bore for the oil to travel better and also on the crank. The mechanic seems to think work has been done recent.

also on the block its self under where the crank sits there are score marks, but the crank is nowhere near fouling them and is tight in the bearings. so we thought it may have gone before, but these scores are not represented on the crank itself. so work must have been done. im really confused and anxious now as to find what pistons and rods they are and what else has been done to the engine. the pics are below of the pistons, crank, block, as best i could. any ideas on what they may be.

what marks does a standard 98 wrx import have on the pistons and rods??

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00057.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00058.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00059.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00060.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00061.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00062.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00063.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00064.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00065.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00066.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00067.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00068.jpg

ok, so after a few hours of panicing, iv been informed that its all standard, thank god, im happy as my crank is in good order, so il be reusing.

next is to get my cylinders bored to accept a 92.5, piston and also polish the heads, im gonna attemp this myself over the next few days weeks while i wait for my cash to build up.

nothing wrong with the con rods iv removed if anyone is interested in them, pistons are due for the bin :)

EXLNTTTTTTTTT
 

Looking super cool matt well done mate keep up the good work you doing great,keep the pics and the posts coming :notworthy :notworthy :notworthy

Juts a tip for the future and in particular putting the engine back in.

Is far far easier to hoist it up (or down) by using ropes around the inlet manifold. That way you can take everything out or put it back in one go.
Its also far far easier to get them lump lined up when pairing it up with the gearbox when you put everything back in.

I've got a clutch change down to about five hours now(I use the engine out method rather that the gearbox off method). That's from turning the car off to starting her up again. I also wouldn't bother about detaching everything.
When my engine comes out it comes out with ( Turbo, headers up-pipe, alternator etc) Things that need detaching are the wiring loom (both side of the engine), fuel lines, accelerator cable, alternator cables, power seering pump.

I just think stripping the engine down as much as you can before taking it out of the car is making things far more difficult for you than they need to be.

HI, i definatly agree with you, but when i started this build i went in blind. iv never taken a engine out of a impreza before so went the long way around it seems. when i come to replacing the engine as much as possible will the attached. Thanks for the advice. i need as much as possible. some days i feel like :brickwall

Not questioning your obvious mechanical skills here, but surely for a clutch change, removing the gbox is easier?!?

5 hours for a clutch if pushed it can be done in 3 hours engine out but that is using air tools :D

Daz is highlighting just how easy engine out is with a flat four

easy the second time, not so much the 1st, as with everyting, faster the more times,

but a box out, id say is quicker

and please done overrun my threat :nono:

well still no progress yet. a broken fridge and tum,ble dryer have exhausted my impreza fund. absolutly gutted.

I have however cleaned the engine bay a bit and started propeing car for fresh paint.

No images as of yet, but il probs go quiet now untill i save up for bits n bobs, as they arrive and i prep everything il keep it posted. could be months :cry:

engine out ????
 

Engine out to change clutch :brickwall never seen any builder do this but hey every one to there own ...

after a very long wait, iv finally got 2k too spend to get my car back on its wheels.

the block is currently down the engineers, having it rebored to 92.5 piston and polish crank.

that costing me £95

so now i need to buy the key parts for the rebuild. engine only

so what the key parts i need, and where is best to source them. eg water pumps, oil pumps

as iv said i want the car 2 be able to run 350 eventually but need a solid base to work off.

My parts list iv got wrote down so far is:-

water pump, oil pump, o ring set, 1.3 head gaskets, new block bolts, head bolts, tensioner, bearings.

just wondering what best combination for reliability from all your experiences.

looking to make a nice fast road car.

I think i was a tad drunk when i wrote that....

not regrinding, just a polish :)

ordered rcm oil pump and few other bits, wondering whats the diff is between big end bearings, main bearings, thrust bearings. so i know what acl bearing sets 2 buy

any adv taken, thanks

ok, well things are looking up. Wiseco piston, manley rods, cometic gaskets and arp head studs all arrived. full bottom end gasket kit, walbro 255 pump, rcm modified pump and plastigauge. only got acl bearings to arrive from CDF racing (Top bloke) and im done, ready to build. Bottom end has been machined .5 overbore and crank polished up.

Also happy to find out i have sti v4 heads.

some pics of stuff

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00209.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00210.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00211.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00212.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00213.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00214.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00215.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/DSC00216.jpg

very nice

well, acl bearings and hks spf filter showed up today,and also my block is back from workshops. but it doesnt look honened, but does have light hone like looking scratches, which im assuming is from drilling. so just gotta make sure its all ok and il be rebuilding and posting more pics.