Frayz

My block is a new genuine 22b Block which is sand cast - contary to popular belief theses are different to an EJ22T - it feels and looks differnt, the surface is different and the casting are slightly different - it was one of the few new ones left. RCM supplied it. Its got rear thrust bearing conversion and 14mm stud conversion. Im using standard 2.5 STI crank as never had a problem with them. So running 2.35 overall.

I must say tho 2.5 semi closed decks are a lot more durable than the press they get.

Last year my car was 2.5 Semi and it had done 10k miles at 600/550, the only reason it failed was my stupidity. i.e. 0.5 galons of fuel lapping snetterton - fuel surge and burnt a small hole in cylinder near head gasket.

The only reson I went CDB this year is the power im expecting and the money spent on the rest of the engine.

I was going to use a secondhand EJ22t block i have, as I feel a seasoned block remachined would be stong, but when it was rebored one of the bore was slightly porous.

Sy

 

So do you think i'll be okay with my new unseasoned block.

Its a stock 2.5 SCD, no bells, no wistles.. but it is that later casting with a cleaner finish and very little flashing.

I was going to liner it but i doubt i'll be breaking 500 with it. My target is a strong, solid 450/450+.

 

Just gota connect the down pipe to the silencer and link pipe then find a veyron owner to humilate

 

Think you'll have trouble finding a veyron owner...

 

Thats how my car in last years spec stated its life- a new 2.5 semi - thats how I bought it from AlanG in april last year. RCM built it for him in 2005. I think Subaru know a bit more than us. There liners and a few mill from the top of the bore. I take the view that if you reliner, they will move, even top hat ones. you are pushing a hard metal into a soft one - I spoke with Quirt Crawford recently, he now uses standard 2.5 semis on his race cars, he said if you get the tunning wrong, it will break any engine and 2.5 semis are cheaper to change.

450/450 is easily reliable on a 2.5 semi - if you going for forged rods and pistons i would say you will be ok upto 550-600 later on.

Im no engine builder or expert, just my humble opinion.

Sy

 

Current spec for the new motor is...

EJ257 block
EJ257 sti crank
Wiseco pistons
Piston rings
Carrillo rods
ACL big end bearings
ACL main bearings
OEM head gaskets
ARP 11mm head stud kit
RCM oil pump
New oem water pump
PE kevlar timing belt
NGK racing 8s
Phenolic spacers
Machined 2ltr STI heads with AVCS
JDM Spec C inlet manifold
Hyperflow top mounted Oil cooler
Turbocharger exhaust housing 8cm for my FP green
Turbo blanket
Exedy hyper Compe-R twin plate clutch, billet lightened f/wheel
Breather/Oil separator
Converted an fuel rails
Parallel fuel system, hose fittings etc
Fuelab fuel filter
Weld on fittings/banjos for turbo water feed and drain
Lots of AN fittings for fuel, oil and water plumbing.

 

Turbo - Location??

 

Stock location, FP Green with 8cm hotside and 3" inlet.

Really wanna go with a rotated GT30 though but dont have the cash right now

 

Sy, is the wastegate take off a bit close to the drive shaft?

 

Yer it is a bit - its only tacked in place at the mo, waiting for the down pipe to finalise the position.

Sy

 

 

That looks flipping awesome. Purely because we know what is hidden but nobody else will.


Tom

 

Looks so unasuming... awesome!

Thinking of going rotated now Sy... youre one of the peopel thats tempting me by watching your build lol

 

superb sleeper look.

frayz - just go for it mate. bet simspons could sort you out the downpipe and uppipes to fit

 

 

 

 

GT40 Twin Scroll - do it once - its cheaper

 

 

I dont need a 40 mate... i want it useable on the road too.

 

I feel sorry for the poor bugger who has to store it and tidy up after you working on it.

 

Absolutely brilliant car.

 

Dont knock it till ya tried it! (As John Leslie said to Abby)

Booked in for Mapping and a downipe on 25th Aug. so ready to rumble a week or so after that.

 

U mean the Tool Biatch?

 

Thanks M8 - just been waiting 10 months now to get the project finished.

Sy

 

Do you say that in front of him?

Wait till the winter comes and his gas heater starts playing up, then say it to him....see what becomes of ya!




Impressive stuff though fella. Good to see you stick at it and fling oodles of cash at it....just like the last guy did.

 

Sy did you see my reply in the car care section?

 

yer thanks Matt,
Mite ask you to give it a polish when i get it back - the paint should be hard enough now. should be back down here in 2-3 weeks.


Sy

 

Just give me a shout. if the body shop baked it, it'll be plenty hard enough now. shouldn't need much of a polish. main thing is to get it sealed up

 

can i ask two things sy?

1. what sort of power will it/should it kick out when complete

2. have you a camera attached to video people s faces when you give her a naughty squirt against a chav chariot