whip

Righto

Checked my ECU and it's a green 802, seatbelt date 07/99. Car feels fine but it's my first scoob.

Sorry if it's a daft question but what does the Dawes device do? Is it a safe mod? Any downsides to it?

Whip

HarryBoy

AE802 'Green', Seat Belts say 01/00. Car has hesitated since new but better with Dawes, not cured just better.......


Harry

crispyduck

iTrader: (1)

T-UK,

Just looked at my seatbelt date - its also 01/00 like your mates.

From what I read on this thread it looks like all 01/00 seat belts plus green AE802 ECUs also have the "hesitation" problem.

It's amaising what difference a newer seat belt makes! ;-)

Steve.

whip

How bad is the 'hesitation' problem that people mention? Mine does it when cold but I drive off-boost for 10 minutes minimum before starting to open things up a little, so it doesn't really bother me.

After a long period of low-rpm driving (such as the daily commute) if I then accellerate hard through any gear the power delivery is a little rough. It takes a couple of runs from low to high rpm before things smooth out and everything's fine after that. I don't think this is a problem in itself as my mate's 01 WRX does exactly the same thing. It certainly hasn't got any worse and is not a problem imho.

Btw Steve, for those people with the hesitation problem, do you think swapping the seatbelts for earlier items may offer a cure?

Whip

[Edited by whip - 1/28/2002 2:49:31 PM]

WREXY

I've never had hesitation on my AE802 greenie 12/99 built.

Wrexy.

john banks

I had mild cold hesitation only still get it with PPP. Not really an issue.

ScoobyJawa

Mine MY99 reg'd April - seatbelts say 10/98, black 800 ecu

Scott W MY00 green 802 ecu.

Scott W

Just following on ScoobyJawa's post I have the Green AE802, with 11/99 on the seatbelts. The car was purchased in December 2000.

However, since installing the Dawes, the car is totally transformed

jonny concrete

Whip, I'm with you. I try my best to follow these threads but that word Dawes keeps poping up. Somebody help:

What is it?

What does it do?

And if it's good, where do you get them and how much!

sjc

ScoobyJawa

Its a manual boost controller. It helps you increase your boost by stopping the wastegate opening until the desired boost is achieved. This elimates the peak and held boost and so you should only get held boost after fitting. I'm running just under 1.2 bar on a MY99 and it fuels fine, and is under the fuel cut.
It also helps the turbo to spool up sooner and it also holds the boost for longer and higher up the rev range. Used with the bleed at 1.5mm I got 266bhp and 257torque from a MY99 with full decat and ITG Filter.

(ready to be corrected by people that understand it better )

Theres a group buy going on at the moment in this very section I believe - might be a page or so down though........

whip

Cheers for that m8.

Are there any downsides to it, such as running lean for instance?

Whip

T-uk

thanks for all the info lads .

it seems as a rough rule that the black AE800 are out of late S and T reg MY99 cars,the brown AE801 is out of V reg MY99 cars and greens are in after that,obviously this is not correct for all cars but lets you know a few details to ask the breaker yards.I phoned a breakers today,they had a few MY99/00 ECU's on shelf,but no black AE800's but that there was a T reg outside,it's ECU is now on it's way to me

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

I never suffered from hesitation on my MY00's green ecu, ok it may have been a little tame but now ive got a PPP and still had no problems with that unfortunately ive got midrange hesitation now, possably due to contamination of the boost solenoid and the pipes leading to it this is getting sorted at the weekend thou along with a very nice scoobymania downpipe (by the way the PPP chip boosted to 15psi, settled to 13) all in all ive had no serious problems ive just got to sort out about the car wanting to overboost now as ill have a full decat system by tomorrow afternoon...

Tony

john banks

Your overboost will only worsen with the DP Tony, so a good time to sort it is after it is fitted. 15 and 13 is low on PPP. You should be able to get about 17 PSI held with a downpipe by getting the restrictor size right. Trouble is if you run too close to the edge the solenoid kicks in and drops the boost. You are best disconnecting that solenoid m8 and then you can run 18 PSI very happily and safely with this setup and still be 1-2 PSI from fuel cut.

[Edited by john banks - 1/31/2002 5:59:09 PM]

T-uk

Tony,

do not think overboost will be a problem,your boost is quite low for a PPP car.

T-uk

beat me to it again john.

it amazes me how different PPP cars boost.one I was in boosted the same as Tony's and it was not far off standard by me seat o pants meter,another with low boost only got standard figures at a r/r day and then others will happily boost to 17/18psi and hold over 15.I think they must just fire in the parts without taking the time to adjust the rectrictors

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Getting the Downpipe fitted tomorrow and then in the dealers on sat morning to get the problem sorted (they going to clean all me pipes and the boost solenoid for me cos im useless lol! ) then sunday will see how much of an improvement ill be getting from 249bhp to whatever with the new DP fitted

Tony

john banks

That is exactly it John!

The solenoid under factory control is lame even with PPP. Junk it or use an EBC!

john banks

Hope your dealer is good Tony! Even if they are, I have found you need to fiddle yourself to get it anything like right. If you run 17PSI in the summer it will overboost in the winter. There is a very narrow adjustment band with the PPP and a downpipe. If you get rid of the solenoid there is no interference until fuel cut proper.

T-uk

just for refrence,

out of all the PPP cars I have been a passenger in,or driven,john banks is by far the only one thar has impressed me.if they went like that after fitting a PPP I would have bought one when I got the car.I think the Dawes valve is the key by the way not the d/p.

john banks

I reckon John that the PPP, downpipe and the Dawes all made about the same difference as each other when added in that order. Subjective opinion only of course.

If the PPP went like my car out the box then it would be very impressive. Fact is it is nothing like.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Looks like i may have to get an EBC, just need to price some up now

Tony

T-uk

after the gains on my m8's standard MY00 with a Dawes,I think the Dawes gives a far bigger gain than any decat.

john banks

Maybe John, but the order of fitting in my case is perhaps important. Running a PPP at 17 PSI without a downpipe and then switching was profound. Maybe at lower boost it is less noticeable, but whilst the PPP was fastish, with a downpipe it became what I think of as seriously quick - really was quite pronounced. The Dawes remember makes less difference to me as I was already running 17 PSI before it.

john banks

Tony - I strongly suggest you try a Dawes with a 1.5mm bleed hole before splashing out on an EBC. It is safe, easy, quick and you have only spend £25 if you don't want to keep it on and you can shift these things like hot cakes if you then don't want it. There is a bargain air fuel ratio meter in the group buy also which looks good and I would strongly recommend if you are going this route.

I have made an EBC which gives if I say so myself stunning boost control, but it is no better than a properly setup Dawes if I am really honest - just more settings to play with and in-cabin adjustment.

[Edited by john banks - 1/31/2002 6:50:01 PM]

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Hiya John,
Im really not that mechanically minded (open bonnet and see an engine, can put oil and washer bottle fuid in it lol!) but apart from that i wouldnt want to knacker me car up
Im just doing the basics at the mo and like you said im only running appox 1bar of boost max with the PPP (but still getting 250bhp out of her ) and the dealer im going to is pretty good and never had any bad reports from them
Im also getting a different fuel pump as i think the one thats on there at the moment is pretty cr@p so with the D/P mod today and the boost solenoid getting cleaned tomorrow (and maybe a dawes fitted but id have to take it to someone who could fit it lol!) im sort of getting there with the car.
Hopefully when the fuel pump and D/P are fitted (fuel pump later this month) ill be able to get the car "fine tuned" to sort any problems out with her

Regards
Tony

john banks

The OEM boost control is really lame. From all my experimenting and info from Stephen Done, it uses a duty cycle which is looked up on a TPS vs RPM map. Then after a delay it uses a boost target looked up from another TPS vs RPM map and tries to home in on it. With no breathing mods it would be fine(ish). If the boost goes too high the solenoid duty cycle is altered to try and bring it down. It doesn't take much to make the boost oscillate from 12-18 PSI! The boost is not actively controlled during spool up at all unless you overshoot and then it is too late and it pulls it back resulting in a very disappointing jerky car.

Dowser - a needle/restrictor valve instead of the restrictors works a treat - much more precise - 10 seconds to alter with engine running even.

Junking the ECU solenoid control is the best thing I have done to this car apart from braided brake lines and Toyos.

ScoobyJawa

Whip,

In answer to your question on Page 2

No the car isn't running lean at all. On the select monitor it was showing 10% CO2 which is rich

whip

Cheers m8

Whip

T-uk

anyone running a green AE802 ECU should try and get one of the earlier ECU's ,see the multiple thread for reasons.

thanks to StephenDone,Babber and Floyd for getting all the ECU's and testing them by select monitor and seat-o-pants meter.

I do not care what a rolling road tells me as it is so much better on road and that is all that matters.my car was 234/flywheel,228/torque,139@wheels.it now feels like everythings gone up 10% .