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2.5ltr classic's, how much oil do you burn

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Old 08 April 2008, 07:54 PM
  #151  
catons scooby
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Originally Posted by l70byb.
when you got the car back was it noisy on cold start ? this could indicate the wrong clearances . As only supposed to be 3 thou on wiseco pistons .
what do you mean at the end, im reading it wrong,

car was noisey but was told its piston slap as the forged piston need to warm up,
Old 08 April 2008, 07:57 PM
  #152  
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heres one with the sensor still in
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Old 08 April 2008, 08:01 PM
  #153  
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3 thou is the measurement we use in engineering to be honest it's old terms these days . Basically not even a *** paper clearance between piston and bore. Well yes forged piston do make a noise on cold start up but it should'nt be that bad . very light tap If measured correctly . Put it this way my old engine was noisier and that had cast pistons! . The new one is almost silent

Last edited by l70byb.; 08 April 2008 at 08:35 PM.
Old 08 April 2008, 08:02 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by catons scooby
what do you mean at the end, im reading it wrong,

car was noisey but was told its piston slap as the forged piston need to warm up,
It would be very interesting to get an independent inspection done with regards to the tolerances. The pics of you spark plugs were black too, which would indicate to me either a very rich mixture OR burnt oil on them (I suspect the latter).

Spark Plugs

Last edited by smokingkills; 08 April 2008 at 08:05 PM.
Old 08 April 2008, 08:03 PM
  #155  
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another but with the breather pipe removed, this pipe was blocked mind you as the breather fitted never went in the pipe properly and caused it to close off and the circlip wasn't on it
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Old 08 April 2008, 08:03 PM
  #156  
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Yellow insulation tape..?

Is the oil on top of the block what's leaked from the sensor..?
Old 08 April 2008, 08:03 PM
  #157  
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yeah
Old 08 April 2008, 08:06 PM
  #158  
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That sensor is in the block? i was thinking you put it in the head on cyl 3. Not sure where the route of the oil is from there.

Last edited by l70byb.; 08 April 2008 at 08:11 PM.
Old 08 April 2008, 08:10 PM
  #159  
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so the breather system was blocked totally? if so this would cause the breather system to pressurise and blow oil out anywhere it could i'e turbo ,oil seals, rings, anywhere! whu did that to the breathers?
Old 08 April 2008, 08:17 PM
  #160  
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they did everyting, it was whilst i checked my sensor for leaks,as i read you must do, i pulled the breather off but it snapped in half leaving the rubber part of the breaher in the pipe and i could see that it waa blocked where the clip was holding it on,i replaced his with another one which seemed better, the car has 2 breathers one here by the sensor and one for the heads,
Old 08 April 2008, 08:19 PM
  #161  
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The breather pipe goes over that pipe - how could it get stuck inside it?
Old 08 April 2008, 08:23 PM
  #162  
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no, the k and n breather goes inside the top of the red breather pipe, the clamp holding the breather to the pipe was so tight it was closed,
Old 08 April 2008, 08:26 PM
  #163  
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here is what i mean
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Old 08 April 2008, 08:27 PM
  #164  
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looking at your photo of the block and the cambelt covers yes you have the 2 breather holes but the tuner has blocked one off towards the middle where the block splits . Same as mine the other on my engine has a large rubber tube which fits over it then to the catch tank or breather filter. is that your engine with the silicon red hoses? did the tuning company fit them ? and do the clip up to tight?
Old 08 April 2008, 08:27 PM
  #165  
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Did the excessive oil consumption start once you changed the pipe for the crank breather?
Old 08 April 2008, 08:28 PM
  #166  
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I'm confused, what do you mean by K&N breather hose..???

Lol, can see by photo now..
Old 08 April 2008, 08:30 PM
  #167  
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the main crank breather is venting straight to atmosphere via a small K&N filter

lol read the next bit now
Old 08 April 2008, 08:30 PM
  #168  
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no the day after i got the car lost a litre,
its all stated at the begining of the thread i think
Old 08 April 2008, 08:32 PM
  #169  
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The oil consumption was always high, the tuner told you that, but I was talking about 4 litres in 40 miles!!
Old 08 April 2008, 08:36 PM
  #170  
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this happened the day i started this thread,the 4ltrs was over a week since everything was done and fitted,
Old 08 April 2008, 08:40 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by l70byb.
looking at your photo of the block and the cambelt covers yes you have the 2 breather holes but the tuner has blocked one off towards the middle where the block splits . Same as mine the other on my engine has a large rubber tube which fits over it then to the catch tank or breather filter. is that your engine with the silicon red hoses? did the tuning company fit them ? and do the clip up to tight?
yes its mine and yes, yes
Old 08 April 2008, 08:41 PM
  #172  
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well as and when you get the engine back . I would strip it down and get it measured bores/pistons. you might find it all way out and then have a case to follow up !!
Old 08 April 2008, 09:00 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by l70byb.
3 thou is the measurement we use in engineering to be honest it's old terms these days . Basically not even a *** paper clearance between piston and bore. Well yes forged piston do make a noise on cold start up but it should'nt be that bad . very light tap If measured correctly . Put it this way my old engine was noisier and that had cast pistons! . The new one is almost silent
Surely if the Piston Manufacturer states the Piston/Bore clearance should be 0.003" then that must be for the thermal expansion of the piston skirt in comparison to the expansion of the liner.
If you run a smaller clearance than recommended with Forged pistons,then you run the risk of the piston "picking up" on the bore and wrecking the piston and the bore.
The standard EJ257 pistons are Hyperthuretic and therefore need a small P/B clearance due to the fact they expand less because of the higher Silicone content used in the Alloy.
Thats why most Specialists bore to suit the Pistons and then hone to the correct Manufacturers spec for the Piston/Bore clearance.
Wiseco are also quite particular on the positioning of the Oil Control Rings due to the design of the Boxer Engine.
If the Insulation tape got into the oil gallerys and blocked a main bearing journal,it wouldnt take long to damage the mains/big ends/crank journals.

Its a crying shame after spending that much on modding the car.

Just my 2 pence worth.
Old 08 April 2008, 09:00 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by l70byb.
well as and when you get the engine back . I would strip it down and get it measured bores/pistons. you might find it all way out and then have a case to follow up !!
Yeah I would take it elsewhere (real specialist) and ask them to check it out. It doesn't sound right to me. Where did the oil go? Out the back I bet. I can’t see how a blocked oil way causes it to use more oil
It shouldn’t cost that much and might well get you some answers. Especially if you paid on plastic

Good luck
Old 08 April 2008, 09:13 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by merlin24
Surely if the Piston Manufacturer states the Piston/Bore clearance should be 0.003" then that must be for the thermal expansion of the piston skirt in comparison to the expansion of the liner.
If you run a smaller clearance than recommended with Forged pistons,then you run the risk of the piston "picking up" on the bore and wrecking the piston and the bore.
The standard EJ257 pistons are Hyperthuretic and therefore need a small P/B clearance due to the fact they expand less because of the higher Silicone content used in the Alloy.
Thats why most Specialists bore to suit the Pistons and then hone to the correct Manufacturers spec for the Piston/Bore clearance.
Wiseco are also quite particular on the positioning of the Oil Control Rings due to the design of the Boxer Engine.
If the Insulation tape got into the oil gallerys and blocked a main bearing journal,it wouldnt take long to damage the mains/big ends/crank journals.

Its a crying shame after spending that much on modding the car.

Just my 2 pence worth.
Just relaying what i've been told when building my own block . Clearances to big, noisy and oil burn! to small and contact of piston and bore . If i remember rightly subaru use a 0.001 clearance on ej257 block standard.Please correct me if i'm wrong!
Old 08 April 2008, 09:44 PM
  #176  
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that is with the new cast pistons as discussed above.
Old 08 April 2008, 09:48 PM
  #177  
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yes as the block and cast piston expand the same
Old 08 April 2008, 10:24 PM
  #178  
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i use about a litre every 1000 miles and i use 10w60 edge stuff, never knew why it drank oil that much, and nothing was reported incorrect at service so i'm assumng the engine is just a oil drinker aswell as a petrol drinker.
Old 08 April 2008, 11:03 PM
  #179  
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l70byb - yes mate as you said,the standard clearance is 0.001" on the EJ257 with standard cast pistons,but i pulled the pistons recently on a brand new EJ257 block and they were an "interference" fit ( zero clearance ) - so much for the factory spec.
Old 08 April 2008, 11:38 PM
  #180  
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So, was there oil coming out from where the sensor was attatched to the block, before you put some insulation tape in? Or did u fit the defi guage by yourself after the engine build.

Also, your car seemed to be using way too much oil from the start anyway. I know forged engines are known to use oil sometimes, but not this much. Might aswell get a two stroke engine conversion if its gona be using that much oil.

I can just see it "Hi, I drive a 500bhp subaru lawnmower"

Some people's rebuilds use hardly any oil, guess it depends on the engine builder, no oil use......good engine builder, a lot of oil use..........

Either way, the company received 20k for you to be their customer, thats more than most peope earn in a year.....I think a free rebuild wouldnt put too much of a dent in their wallet......


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