which engine oil would you recommend?
#31
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Silkolene Pro S (or an equivalent REAL fully synth oil) 10w 50 would be my choice for a classic scooby.
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i use mobil super s 10w/40 semi synthetic high perfomance in my 80k mile car, does the job and stays clean!
£22 a gallon and not a bad oil at all. I will always use it.
unless all u dudes think otherwise,,,,
£22 a gallon and not a bad oil at all. I will always use it.
unless all u dudes think otherwise,,,,
#34
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I wasn't, there is no reason why the grade would cause a problem, so its more likley something else was changed (additives, friction modifiers etc etc) and they changed the nominal grade so they could track which oil was which....
Thinner oil for better FE I expect!
Simon
Thinner oil for better FE I expect!
Simon
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Show catorgoric proof that this is the case. In the form of a issued TSB. Because every time I have questioned anyone who has said that, has failed to come up with the proof. And I have been unable to find it myself, so have concluded that its a load of conjecture (bullcrap) spread by our gossiping old freind, the internet!
Which makes sense; as a 0w-40 should perform no different to a 10w-40 once at normal operating temperature. If anything the 0w-40 is highly likely to be a synthetic oil (or one using midfied base stocks) whereas nearly all 10w-40 are typically semi-synthetics. So the 0w-40 should be be better in almost all cases.
Even hydraulic lifter noise is not an issue - its a noise, nothing else. If anything, should they drain down, they will refill quicker with a 0w oil on cold start.
Mobil make all sorts of grade oils under the Mobil one brand. As do Castrol with their Edge and Magnatec brands. But only a very narrow range of which is availble on the shelf at a motor factors. But through trade sources, one can obtain virtually any grade under the sun for each brand.
It won't be a "Special" oil. As Subaru don't have their own oil standards; they just go along with the basic Api grade that is current at the time. (unlike BMW, Merc and VAG).
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I'm with Simon and Shark Man on this one.
Seems a lot of people don't really understand oils if they recommend a 10W40 over a 0W40 !
Using that logic a monograde 40 would be best
Seems a lot of people don't really understand oils if they recommend a 10W40 over a 0W40 !
Using that logic a monograde 40 would be best
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In the broadest of senses, there no outright wrong or right oil.
I know that doesn't help. As the subject is as ambiguous enough as it is
I know that doesn't help. As the subject is as ambiguous enough as it is
#41
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Isn't there a rule of thumb that says the wider the SAE (i.e. the more the manufacturers try to push the viscosity/temperature envolope) the more prone these hyper-fandango oils will be to loosing these ratings / lubrication qualities under repeated high loads?
My experience of oil degrading has been that the oil pressure at hot tickover progressively drops as hyper-fandango oil does more miles... When the oil is changed again the oil pressure at hot tickover goes up to normal again... In my experience this effect is greatly reduced when using a sensible SAE from a major manufacturer.
My experience of oil degrading has been that the oil pressure at hot tickover progressively drops as hyper-fandango oil does more miles... When the oil is changed again the oil pressure at hot tickover goes up to normal again... In my experience this effect is greatly reduced when using a sensible SAE from a major manufacturer.
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To the tech people posting, my question is, it all seems well and good that the 0w oils can do unbelievable things, but from personal experience, every engine i've had it in gets noisier, as in mechanical noise! To the point it sounds like a bag of hammers, hot or cold.
I've always thought, that these oils are so thin that they don't cushion any of the mechanical noise that the engine naturally makes, although i'm sure they are lubricating as they should! But....Is there a point where an oil could be so "effecient" at circulating, that it passes through components and because thre is no cusioning effect that a load baring component could be damaged?
As i see it as a lamen, i would imagine a thicker oil would protect more in this scenario, although a thinner oil will circulate better, is it just a case of getiing a happy medium between the two.
I've always thought, that these oils are so thin that they don't cushion any of the mechanical noise that the engine naturally makes, although i'm sure they are lubricating as they should! But....Is there a point where an oil could be so "effecient" at circulating, that it passes through components and because thre is no cusioning effect that a load baring component could be damaged?
As i see it as a lamen, i would imagine a thicker oil would protect more in this scenario, although a thinner oil will circulate better, is it just a case of getiing a happy medium between the two.
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Dabow - at high temp oil thickens due to carbon build - so having 50 grade or 40 grade makes no odds its the temp resistance of the oil to coking thats important!
MR - Yes a 50 grade generally will, and thats EXACTLY what I said I think?
"If you want the better protection (but worse power and FE due to increased friction) hot of a 50 grade oil"
Simon
MR - Yes a 50 grade generally will, and thats EXACTLY what I said I think?
"If you want the better protection (but worse power and FE due to increased friction) hot of a 50 grade oil"
Simon
they said to me 10w/50 is better as its got a higher boiling point
and that using a 40 based one, wont last due to the temp
witch means the oil will protect even when pushing a little harder
even better would be 10w/60
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I really hope he didn't say anything of the sort as that is rubbish and totally irrelevant unless you intend driving your car with no coolant!
The higher the hot rating, the more viscous the oil, it will give better protection (like for like oil, film strength is not directly related to viscosity after all) but its also gives more drag so the engine will give less power and worse FE, so it all depends on what state your engine is in, large bearing clearneces (race engine or knackered old un) will want a thicker oil.
If Subaru recommend 0W30 on a stock newage (and you can bet your life they have done more testing than ANYONE else) then you can be pretty sure its safe on that - unless you've taken the TD04 out and are now running a 321 at 50% more boost and thus changed all the operating parameters of course!
Simon
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lets put it this way, i dont have a newage.
the last time i used 0w/30 in my classic, i had to change it after less than 2 months. this 10w/50 i use. goes through a 6 month with no probs.
i have a classic not a newage. subaru may put 0w/30
but start modding the car, that subaru recomendation isd worth jack.
yes what you said/put is right.
so why do they use/recament 10w/60 for track use
as soon as you take the bhp levels higher, so does the oil need to be upgraded too
& thats all i have to say about it!
the last time i used 0w/30 in my classic, i had to change it after less than 2 months. this 10w/50 i use. goes through a 6 month with no probs.
i have a classic not a newage. subaru may put 0w/30
but start modding the car, that subaru recomendation isd worth jack.
yes what you said/put is right.
so why do they use/recament 10w/60 for track use
as soon as you take the bhp levels higher, so does the oil need to be upgraded too
& thats all i have to say about it!
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Im scared now!
I currently have 0w40 Mobile One Fully Synthetic oil in my Classic Uk Impreza Turbo which runs a healthy 325 BHP.
Its strange because I think the engine sounds really quiet and seems to run smoother from cold then it did before. I believe the the car had a 15w50 grade oil before and it always seemed a little noisy on start up.
I was under the impression that a 0w40 would offer better cold protection as a good quality brand of Fully Synthetic 10W40? surely it wont do any harm will it? not that I claim to know any of the science behind how the oils perform.
I currently have 0w40 Mobile One Fully Synthetic oil in my Classic Uk Impreza Turbo which runs a healthy 325 BHP.
Its strange because I think the engine sounds really quiet and seems to run smoother from cold then it did before. I believe the the car had a 15w50 grade oil before and it always seemed a little noisy on start up.
I was under the impression that a 0w40 would offer better cold protection as a good quality brand of Fully Synthetic 10W40? surely it wont do any harm will it? not that I claim to know any of the science behind how the oils perform.
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There are so many theories from the 'experts' on here. Failing oil pumps, oil grade, fuel, driver abuse, lack of servicing etc. I think the last two are far more likely to be the 'common' cause of any engine failure, not just subaru.
Most people only do short journeys in their scoob (below 25miles), so why would a 15w50 offer more protection than a 0w40?
It just doesn't make sense.
If they are really 'experts', pick a likely cause and stick to it, or just say, you don't know!
Most people only do short journeys in their scoob (below 25miles), so why would a 15w50 offer more protection than a 0w40?
It just doesn't make sense.
If they are really 'experts', pick a likely cause and stick to it, or just say, you don't know!
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There are so many theories from the 'experts' on here. Failing oil pumps, oil grade, fuel, driver abuse, lack of servicing etc. I think the last two are far more likely to be the 'common' cause of any engine failure, not just subaru.
Most people only do short journeys in their scoob (below 25miles), so why would a 15w50 offer more protection than a 0w40?
It just doesn't make sense.
If they are really 'experts', pick a likely cause and stick to it, or just say, you don't know!
Most people only do short journeys in their scoob (below 25miles), so why would a 15w50 offer more protection than a 0w40?
It just doesn't make sense.
If they are really 'experts', pick a likely cause and stick to it, or just say, you don't know!
#51
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i think what most are saying.
if you just drive short distance, & dont hammer your car.
a good 10w/40 will do
go hard, 15w/50 & aboth.
i was advised to use silklene pro-s 10w/50
but when i first got the car, someone told me to only use magnatec 10w/40
to which i found to last only a couple of months befor it was like jet black pi** water.
so really. no one is wrong on this, different models need different oils due to the way there being driven
an i right
if you just drive short distance, & dont hammer your car.
a good 10w/40 will do
go hard, 15w/50 & aboth.
i was advised to use silklene pro-s 10w/50
but when i first got the car, someone told me to only use magnatec 10w/40
to which i found to last only a couple of months befor it was like jet black pi** water.
so really. no one is wrong on this, different models need different oils due to the way there being driven
an i right
#52
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i was recommended to use 0w-40, and thats what i uesed, 0w-40 castrol edge....
tho will be due an oil change very soon so going for 5w-40 i think or 10w-40 be better?
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NO, no, no.....Mocom's concerns are HOT, thats the 40 bit the number followed by W (for Winter - somethings are simple) is for cold start, Mocom said nothing less than 10W40 but then listed all hot conserns, I would still suggest 0W40 due to the reduced circulation time and drag reduction...
Simon
Simon
#54
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It seems to me there is another misconception regarding oil, in that the longer the oil stays 'clean' the better the oil..!
In fact, the oil should get progressively darker, as it should be collecting any crap etc within the engine..
BTW, I've heard the phrase "0w 5w too thin.." so many times..!
In fact, the oil should get progressively darker, as it should be collecting any crap etc within the engine..
BTW, I've heard the phrase "0w 5w too thin.." so many times..!
#55
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Interesting to see what Roger Clark use for servicing Scoobies
Roger Clark Motorsport - Subaru Impreza Service Price List
Here's what David at Api had to say
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-15w-50-a.html
I've been told on numerous occassions by the nice folks at xtreme Scoobies and by Bob Rawle that 10w 50 is A OK for my UK classic.
Apologies for the name dropping, but I've just heard too many people, who have a damned sight more knowledge and experience of these cars than me, saying either a) go for a 10/15w and/or Don't use a 0/5W oil.
All seem to be in agreement that an Ester based fully synth e.g. Silkolene Pro S is best.
Bit of a minefield this, eh!
Ns04
Roger Clark Motorsport - Subaru Impreza Service Price List
Here's what David at Api had to say
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-15w-50-a.html
I've been told on numerous occassions by the nice folks at xtreme Scoobies and by Bob Rawle that 10w 50 is A OK for my UK classic.
Apologies for the name dropping, but I've just heard too many people, who have a damned sight more knowledge and experience of these cars than me, saying either a) go for a 10/15w and/or Don't use a 0/5W oil.
All seem to be in agreement that an Ester based fully synth e.g. Silkolene Pro S is best.
Bit of a minefield this, eh!
Ns04
#56
Vauxhall recommended Mobil 1 0w-40 for my 16v 2 litre Cavalier and I was happy to use it but it won't be going in my P1. The very fact that Subaru recommend a thinner oil in the New Age cars but a thicker oil in Classics suggests they have taken numerous factors into account, tolerances, bore clearances, advances in oil technology and many more.
I also think that manufacturers like Subaru or Vauxhall will know far more about their engines lubricant requirements and the oils availble to them than clever well meaning people on here so I for one will stick with the recommendations in my Scooby handbook.
I also think that manufacturers like Subaru or Vauxhall will know far more about their engines lubricant requirements and the oils availble to them than clever well meaning people on here so I for one will stick with the recommendations in my Scooby handbook.
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