Can a faulty Lamda sensor really affect mpg?
Cant remember the name now, but it was about £40. my car is a 99 Type R and a CEL is a "Check Engine Light" so I have just ordered one from Camskill, hope this one will work as it should.
I think i'm going to try the one at £60. The guy said you get 12 months warranty, so if I experience problems similar to you, i'll ring the people up and demand a refund.
Don't think mine has a CEL light (being a '95) think it's just a red ENGINE sign.
Heres a really idiots question for ya, does the car still have a lambda sensor if it has a decatted downpipe?
My 95 wrx is using a bucket load more fuel that it used to but am due to get a decat downpipe on soon, would this help and stopped the need for buying a new lambda sensor?
I know im stupid
My 95 wrx is using a bucket load more fuel that it used to but am due to get a decat downpipe on soon, would this help and stopped the need for buying a new lambda sensor?
I know im stupid
Heres a really idiots question for ya, does the car still have a lambda sensor if it has a decatted downpipe?
My 95 wrx is using a bucket load more fuel that it used to but am due to get a decat downpipe on soon, would this help and stopped the need for buying a new lambda sensor?
I know im stupid
My 95 wrx is using a bucket load more fuel that it used to but am due to get a decat downpipe on soon, would this help and stopped the need for buying a new lambda sensor?
I know im stupid


(Courtesy of Roger Clark Motorsport)
I've justhada look at that 'Camskill' sensor posted in this thread, and it too has the square connector block:

Seen as my sensor is in the headers, can anyone tell me where it plugs/unplugs - so I can double check the connector type before ordering?
An engine bay pic with an arrow would be ideal.
I only ask, as I work office hours, so it'll have to wait till weekend (because it's dark when i'm not working) if i'm to crawl under the car and trace it back by myself.

Seen as my sensor is in the headers, can anyone tell me where it plugs/unplugs - so I can double check the connector type before ordering?
An engine bay pic with an arrow would be ideal.
I only ask, as I work office hours, so it'll have to wait till weekend (because it's dark when i'm not working) if i'm to crawl under the car and trace it back by myself.
The Lambda is n the Header, I followed the wire up and you can see it in this picture - it's got yellow tape round near the end of the wire:
Her's a closer shot:
You do have a point about making sure the wiring is long enough though...
does it matter if the sensor is in the header or the downpipe?? I replaced mine not so long ago, obv in the headers, but it made no difference at th mot, still maxed out the emissions machine!!!! does it need a cat for the emissions generally???
sorry for the slight hijack, it is kinda on topic!!! lol
sorry for the slight hijack, it is kinda on topic!!! lol
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 2
From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
no different just lasts long in the downpipe.
if the garage does the correct test for the earlier car then it is possible to get through without a cat but they have tightenned the emissions right up
if the garage does the correct test for the earlier car then it is possible to get through without a cat but they have tightenned the emissions right up
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 2
From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
assuming minty this is on you 98 with 96 engine then the plug will be under the tmic by the bulk head as you using the 98 loom.. therefore needs to go in the downpipe
How confusing
i guess you got my recent PM then. Cheers
I have already got the one from the down pipe plugged in and i think it's there too, so i guess the one in the headers is a backup/spare
Cheers
Minty.
i guess you got my recent PM then. CheersI have already got the one from the down pipe plugged in and i think it's there too, so i guess the one in the headers is a backup/spare
Cheers
Minty.
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 2
From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
yes but remembered from you posting about it 
I will reply a bit later to pm as just off out
would be worth removing and putting a bung in as the sensor will clog without the heater wiring connected, then keep it as a spare.

I will reply a bit later to pm as just off out
would be worth removing and putting a bung in as the sensor will clog without the heater wiring connected, then keep it as a spare.
Guys - i'm confused.
On Friday night I connected the two black connectors behind the dash, and turned the ignition to 'On' in the hope of seeing the error code saying the Lambda sensor was faulty.
However, the Check Engine Light flashed steadily, indicating no error.
I'm confused, do you think it is my Lambda that's faulty or not? Should I bother replacing it or not, bearing in mind the mechanic said mine was 'Lazy' when cold.
On Friday night I connected the two black connectors behind the dash, and turned the ignition to 'On' in the hope of seeing the error code saying the Lambda sensor was faulty.
However, the Check Engine Light flashed steadily, indicating no error.
I'm confused, do you think it is my Lambda that's faulty or not? Should I bother replacing it or not, bearing in mind the mechanic said mine was 'Lazy' when cold.
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 2
From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
very very rare for the ecu to see a faulty lambda as the sensor range is 0 to 1volt all of which is valid.. therefore unlikely for it to log an error
Simon
Simon
Definitly worth replacing it then? In your opinion, is there something else that could be causing this rough idle, an inconsistent idle, when cold? AND increased MPG?
I'm skint at the minute and can't afford the sensor really.
I don't have any credit cards or anything, so have to make the money i've got last.
If there's something else, boost solenoid or something, that could be causing these symptoms?
Just need an expert to say, I know it's difficult without seeing the car, if it's the Lambda that needs replacing. Would resetting the ECU by connecting the green connectors behind the dash help?
Last edited by sjwdavies; Jan 22, 2008 at 04:29 PM.
That's what i'm saying though, I don't really have the money to waste.
I'm skint at the minute and can't afford the sensor really.
I don't have any credit cards or anything, so have to make the money i've got last.
If there's something else, boost solenoid or something, that could be causing these symptoms?
Just need an expert to say, I know it's difficult without seeing the car, if it's the Lambda that needs replacing. Would resetting the ECU by connecting the green connectors behind the dash help?
I'm skint at the minute and can't afford the sensor really.
I don't have any credit cards or anything, so have to make the money i've got last.
If there's something else, boost solenoid or something, that could be causing these symptoms?
Just need an expert to say, I know it's difficult without seeing the car, if it's the Lambda that needs replacing. Would resetting the ECU by connecting the green connectors behind the dash help?
My car is a '96 WRX with an STI engine. I have an Apexi PowerFC ecu and commander so I can check the voltages on the sensors such as the Lambda,that's how I managed to find the fault.
I don't think a failed Lambda sensor will give an error code but i'm not 100% sure about that.
I got my universal Lambda from here: Just Lambda, Suppliers of Bosch and NTK lambda sensors including zirconia and titania sensors by post
It's the LS02 that you want,second one down on the list I think.
I think you can get a Bosch LS02 sensor cheaper from Brown Brothers or similar.
Hope this helps you.
Simon.
Just thought I’d give you people interested an update on my lambda sensor predicament…
I bit the bullet and rang a local parts company, Andrew Page. Gave the kind gentleman my reg and he said “The sensor we have listed for that car is £79.60 including VAT, do you want me to order it in? It’ll be here Friday.” So I picked it up Saturday.
Opened the box, had a look at the sensor and it’s blatant the wires aren’t long enough. I rang back the idiot that’d sold me this ‘Direct Replacement’ lambda and he said “Oh…”. I asked if I cut the wires and extended them, would it invalidate the warranty. Ofcourse it will I’m afraid, was the reply.
So now…. I’m trying to get them to find out the correct part. They do stock a Bosh universal one, that I’ve been told from members on here will fit no problems, and guess what, it’s cheaper than the supposed ‘Direct Fit’!
Can anyone on here who’s replaced the Lambda sensor that’s in the headers (not the down pipe), please tell me which sensor you used and how much it cost?
I bit the bullet and rang a local parts company, Andrew Page. Gave the kind gentleman my reg and he said “The sensor we have listed for that car is £79.60 including VAT, do you want me to order it in? It’ll be here Friday.” So I picked it up Saturday.
Opened the box, had a look at the sensor and it’s blatant the wires aren’t long enough. I rang back the idiot that’d sold me this ‘Direct Replacement’ lambda and he said “Oh…”. I asked if I cut the wires and extended them, would it invalidate the warranty. Ofcourse it will I’m afraid, was the reply.
So now…. I’m trying to get them to find out the correct part. They do stock a Bosh universal one, that I’ve been told from members on here will fit no problems, and guess what, it’s cheaper than the supposed ‘Direct Fit’!
Can anyone on here who’s replaced the Lambda sensor that’s in the headers (not the down pipe), please tell me which sensor you used and how much it cost?




