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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 03:04 PM
  #31  
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thats my problem ive had 3 opinions and they were all different
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Phildodd06
I'd budget for about £3k once they add the VAT on top
eh? for a bottom end rebuild? i thought a full engine build could be had for around £3k
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by exvaux
thats my problem ive had 3 opinions and they were all different

...nightmare continues

did you speak to Dave at API?
TBH mate, your garages sound useless, - not exactly rocket-science to diagnose the difference between tappets, bearing, and injector noises.

When my big end went it initially sounded like a loose heatshield which became noticeable at around 2500rpm+. Over the next couple of days the 'rattle' seemed to start at lower and lower rpm's.
By it's last day, I could hear it at idle. Tried driving it to my local garage but only got about 5miles before it died.

As suggested previously, you could use a long screwdriver to try and isolate where the noise is coming from. To check the bearing, you'll need to safely jack the car up and get someone to gently rev it (from the engine-bay) while you probe around the block.

Also worthwhile draining a bit of oil from the sump to see if there's any debris in it.

Hope you get to the bottom of whatever's going on...
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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I drained the oil today and checked for debris and the oil was very clean with no particles in it at all. What do you think?
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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i think these cars were sent to try us,cars booked in to get the tappets done on wednesday,if its not them thats making the noise and ive wasted more money i wont be happy and there will be a cheap typeR for sale lol
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 03:36 PM
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just to back up what i was saying early, when i bought my car the previous owner told me it have piston slap also a few of my mate have commented about it having piston slap and ive even had comments like " soon be time for a rebuild then"

the symtoms were that it would rattle when cold and would only stop rattling when the engine started to warm up, so piston slap right ? wrong after putting a £4.00 bottle of hydrolic lifter treatment in the oil my car now runs like a dream and has no rattles whatsoever so it' really pays to start with the same things
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fastfu
just to back up what i was saying early, when i bought my car the previous owner told me it have piston slap also a few of my mate have commented about it having piston slap and ive even had comments like " soon be time for a rebuild then"

the symtoms were that it would rattle when cold and would only stop rattling when the engine started to warm up, so piston slap right ? wrong after putting a £4.00 bottle of hydrolic lifter treatment in the oil my car now runs like a dream and has no rattles whatsoever so it' really pays to start with the same things
Where did you get the hydrolic lifter treatment?
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Deano_P1
Where did you get the hydrolic lifter treatment?

ditto, also exvaux, how come your only having your tappets done? i thought it involved dropping the engine etc, and may as well rebuild the bottom end? heard this from a couple different sources
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 05:58 PM
  #39  
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unfortunately mine has solid lifters so that wont do me any good butim hoping its just something small and silly like that as the garage want to take the engine out and heads off to check tappets which isnt cheap and nobody else will touch the car
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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engine was rebiult less than 10k ago but heads were not touched,now its noisy im hoping its just the tappets/lifters as thats a lot cheaper than another FULL rebuild ie top and bottom ends but still looking at 1k+ for the tappets done
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #41  
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the hydrolic lifter treatment can be bought from halfrauds
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fastfu
the hydrolic lifter treatment can be bought from halfrauds
do you just pop it in the oil resevior? will it not flood the engine.

sorry for the stooopid questions...
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:38 PM
  #43  
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BTTT - i would like to know aswell, i see a saturday morning trip to halfords for a few of us!!!

would hydraulic lifter treatment be suitable for a my99 car??
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:39 PM
  #44  
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my car has a noise similar but itas more of a dimented sewing machine ticking. worried now
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chocolate_o_brian
do you just pop it in the oil resevior? will it not flood the engine.

sorry for the stooopid questions...
yeah you just put it in with your oil, its never recommended to over fill your oil so you may want to drain at bit out although mine needed a top up so i just put it straight in

also a sewing machine sound would more that likely be injectors or the boost solenoid
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 08:27 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by fastfu
yeah you just put it in with your oil, its never recommended to over fill your oil so you may want to drain at bit out although mine needed a top up so i just put it straight in

also a sewing machine sound would more that likely be injectors or the boost solenoid
have you got a direct link or the name of the stuff. chances are when i go in tomorrow and ask, il get a load of waffle.

assume if i add some to the oil, i turn the engine over a little let it mix....
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #47  
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can someone please tell me if hydraulic lifter treatment is suitable for a my99 uk turbo??




Lee
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 09:20 PM
  #48  
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the sewing machine noise seems to come equally from each bank of cylinders.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 12:30 AM
  #49  
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this is the stuff i bought Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment - eBay Car Care, Car Accessories, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 06-Nov-07 09:24:32 GMT)
and it does exactly what it says on the tin
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 01:34 AM
  #50  
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I've found an STI Type R short block, the guy said it comes with no ancillaries, will my old bits bolt onto this engine if i buy it and get someone to fit it?
The new engine has only done 25,000 miles and was bought new 3 years ago.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:37 AM
  #51  
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Where did you get the hydrolic lifter treatment?

IF you have hydraulic lifters they can be 'cured' or mostly quietened, by flushing them through. You can buy all sorts of potions from Halfrauds and the like, but the main constituent of lifter cleaner is Automatic transmission fluid which come a lot cheaper.

A 99 car does not have hydraulic lifters - in fact most MY97 on EJ20 T 's are solid lifters. I.E. anything with 4 coil packs will almost certainly be hydraulic and anything with a single coil pack [ on GC8 ] is solid lifters.

The procedure is to drain off a pint ' [ half litre - for you modern types ] of engine oil when hot and refill to the correct level with ATF. Drive for 300 miles and then change the oil and filter using a regular grade 10W40 or 15W40 of fully synthetic engine oil.

If the hydraulics haven't quietened down by the 300 miles then they aren't going to ! OR you have a car without hydraulics [ see above ]

Subaru dealers used to sell stuff from Australia called ' Super-roo ' get it ?? which did the job and APi Australia found out about the constituent content then. Saved a fortune too, as Super-roo was about 30 quid for a perfume bottle sized pot........

Give it a go folks it works well as I describe above.

David APi
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by APIDavid
Where did you get the hydrolic lifter treatment?

IF you have hydraulic lifters they can be 'cured' or mostly quietened, by flushing them through. You can buy all sorts of potions from Halfrauds and the like, but the main constituent of lifter cleaner is Automatic transmission fluid which come a lot cheaper.

A 99 car does not have hydraulic lifters - in fact most MY97 on EJ20 T 's are solid lifters. I.E. anything with 4 coil packs will almost certainly be hydraulic and anything with a single coil pack [ on GC8 ] is solid lifters.

The procedure is to drain off a pint ' [ half litre - for you modern types ] of engine oil when hot and refill to the correct level with ATF. Drive for 300 miles and then change the oil and filter using a regular grade 10W40 or 15W40 of fully synthetic engine oil.

If the hydraulics haven't quietened down by the 300 miles then they aren't going to ! OR you have a car without hydraulics [ see above ]

Subaru dealers used to sell stuff from Australia called ' Super-roo ' get it ?? which did the job and APi Australia found out about the constituent content then. Saved a fortune too, as Super-roo was about 30 quid for a perfume bottle sized pot........

Give it a go folks it works well as I describe above.

David APi
so even if this idea doesnt work, your engine hasnt come to much harm, and your not out of pocket much at least...
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 03:47 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Bern
I've found an STI Type R short block, the guy said it comes with no ancillaries, will my old bits bolt onto this engine if i buy it and get someone to fit it?
The new engine has only done 25,000 miles and was bought new 3 years ago.
Anyone...?
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 04:36 PM
  #54  
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depends what model or year the block is from,if its a 99 version 5 then not really,it can be made to work but it takes a lot of time and money to get it to match to the heads cheaper buying an earlier block,and that came from david at API as i wanted to put a 98 typeR block in my 99 typeR
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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Its from an STI Type R Version 4, my car is an STI 1996 model, will it fit?
The block was bought from APi.

Last edited by Bern; Oct 20, 2007 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 10:25 AM
  #56  
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should fit ok but ask david at API as anythin he doesnt know about theses engines isnt worth knowing
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 10:57 PM
  #57  
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[QUOTE=APIDavid;7344585]Where did you get the hydrolic lifter treatment?

IF you have hydraulic lifters they can be 'cured' or mostly quietened, by flushing them through. You can buy all sorts of potions from Halfrauds and the like, but the main constituent of lifter cleaner is Automatic transmission fluid which come a lot cheaper.

A 99 car does not have hydraulic lifters - in fact most MY97 on EJ20 T 's are solid lifters. I.E. anything with 4 coil packs will almost certainly be hydraulic and anything with a single coil pack [ on GC8 ] is solid lifters.

The procedure is to drain off a pint ' [ half litre - for you modern types ] of engine oil when hot and refill to the correct level with ATF. Drive for 300 miles and then change the oil and filter using a regular grade 10W40 or 15W40 of fully synthetic engine oil.

If the hydraulics haven't quietened down by the 300 miles then they aren't going to ! OR you have a car without hydraulics [ see above ]


Very useful info from David there! Knowledge like this is invaluable. Just what the forum is for.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:44 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Bern
Anyone...?
Will all my other bits off my old engine bolt onto this?
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