FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER PROJECT
#121
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Nice job their silent have heard about the chuff chuff syndrom their is a link in the group buy that goes through this and turns out a weaker spring is the answer Let us all know how you get on to resolve the issue of the chuff chuff
My front splitter turned up today held one of the corners against the bumper and it looks spot on and this will still allow air to pass over the centre bar allowing the air to cool the bottom of the front mount that hangs lower than the bumper
KIP
My front splitter turned up today held one of the corners against the bumper and it looks spot on and this will still allow air to pass over the centre bar allowing the air to cool the bottom of the front mount that hangs lower than the bumper
KIP
Last edited by KIPS; 14 April 2007 at 08:41 PM.
#122
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Well I'm already on the weakest Forge spring so I stretched it to twice its length then cut it in half and it seems to have worked. It's definitely made a difference and it's a lot smoother on light throttle although still at half throttle the problem's there to a lesser extent. At full throttle you can drive through it anyway. Going to think up another way of fixing it.
#123
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rob
#124
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SILENT RUNNING, Have a look here this may help you with dv issues
LADS :: View topic - DV problem
Hope this helps
KIP
LADS :: View topic - DV problem
Hope this helps
KIP
#125
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Nice one, confirms what's been discussed on the other thread I started about this. I'll keep my eyes open for a standard DV. Also been given a tip about restricting the diameter of the inlet pipe as well.
Rob - which restrictor?
Rob - which restrictor?
#126
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rob
#128
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http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...arch070181.jpg
rob
#129
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Hmmm interesting...
Well I've tried out a standard v4 DV now and it has made a big difference. It's minimised the surge to a quieter chuffing noise which is now at 1 bar boost or above, meaning I can now drive on part throttle and not really encounter it at all. I can live with it now at least. I'd still like to fix it and suspect fitting a really high flowing DV like a Turbosmart plumb-back or APS twin vent would sort it out for good, but I'm not made of money, so I'll stick with the original DV for the time being.
Well I've tried out a standard v4 DV now and it has made a big difference. It's minimised the surge to a quieter chuffing noise which is now at 1 bar boost or above, meaning I can now drive on part throttle and not really encounter it at all. I can live with it now at least. I'd still like to fix it and suspect fitting a really high flowing DV like a Turbosmart plumb-back or APS twin vent would sort it out for good, but I'm not made of money, so I'll stick with the original DV for the time being.
#130
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WEEKEND HERE And I can finally finish my bugeye splitter conversion
SILENT RUNNING any updates on how shes running now ?
KIP
SILENT RUNNING any updates on how shes running now ?
KIP
#131
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LOL it never rains but it pours...
Now it's mapped for the FMIC (with an extra 4 degrees of advance over the old TMIC), it's so fast at 1.4 bar that I broke the AP clutch, so it's off the road to have a new clutch and flywheel fitted. I'm investigating various options for when it's back on the road including maybe fitting a TD05 instead of my VF35 which may be a bit undersized now I've got the FMIC kit on.
Now it's mapped for the FMIC (with an extra 4 degrees of advance over the old TMIC), it's so fast at 1.4 bar that I broke the AP clutch, so it's off the road to have a new clutch and flywheel fitted. I'm investigating various options for when it's back on the road including maybe fitting a TD05 instead of my VF35 which may be a bit undersized now I've got the FMIC kit on.
#132
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SILENT Whats the spec of your engine are you running apexi ecu and yellows?
KIP
KIP
#133
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Had a weekend of fun trying to fit a bugeye splitter on a classic got there in the end;
Need some opinions on wether to paint the splitter all black or the two outer parts silver and leave the centre bar black
And should the side vents be black or silver
KIP
Need some opinions on wether to paint the splitter all black or the two outer parts silver and leave the centre bar black
And should the side vents be black or silver
KIP
Last edited by KIPS; 22 April 2007 at 09:00 PM.
#135
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Leave the centre black.
My spec: 2.0 WRX, FMIC & K&N IK, Power FC, ported VF35, yellow 440s, Walbro fuel pump, silicone inlet pipe, ported and wrapped headers/up-pipe, wrapped sports cat downpipe.
My spec: 2.0 WRX, FMIC & K&N IK, Power FC, ported VF35, yellow 440s, Walbro fuel pump, silicone inlet pipe, ported and wrapped headers/up-pipe, wrapped sports cat downpipe.
#136
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Kips, question for you.
I also have a 93wrx and on my induction pipework, I have my filter, then the maf (same as yours) but then I have a bulbous bit which connects to the plastic turbo elbow. You dont have that on your, have you always had what you have got there or is it from a replacement car? If so what is it from or what is it? Mine is causing issues with it resting on the actuator arm when the bonnet is closed.
Cheers
I also have a 93wrx and on my induction pipework, I have my filter, then the maf (same as yours) but then I have a bulbous bit which connects to the plastic turbo elbow. You dont have that on your, have you always had what you have got there or is it from a replacement car? If so what is it from or what is it? Mine is causing issues with it resting on the actuator arm when the bonnet is closed.
Cheers
got any pics of yours might be able to suggest a way to solve your problem
KIP
#137
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HOT TIP!!! My FMIC outlet pipe (the one that runs vertically in front of the cambelt cover) had been rubbing on the cover and worn it through so you could see the belt, just by the side to side rocking of the engine. Be very careful! Even if it looks like the pipe just about fits, it's too close to allow any play.
So the secret is, stick it in a vice and squash down and ovalise the whole section from the bottom where it turns to go vertical, right up to a couple of inches from the top where your hose will go. That way you still have the same flow but totally solve the clearance problem.
So the secret is, stick it in a vice and squash down and ovalise the whole section from the bottom where it turns to go vertical, right up to a couple of inches from the top where your hose will go. That way you still have the same flow but totally solve the clearance problem.
#138
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FMIC with/without P1 splitter - early bumper
As many people have found out, these FMICs hang down a couple of rows below the bumper and it looks pretty lame, plus is a little too vulnerable down there for my liking. So after a bit of searching I found the P1 splitter which has three slots in the middle for air to go through onto the FMIC's bottom rows. It's like it was made for it, but isn't too fussy looking.
Anyway, here's the before and after pics on my MY98 WRX wagon with an early bumper. The grey look to the splitter is Halfords 'dark grey' bumper paint which was a perfect match for the standard plastic side skirts going by the colour on the cap, but came out really light when painted and dried. So I'm going to do it black, but overall I'm well pleased. It balances up the car which now looks a lot tougher with matching skirts/valances/splitters all round. And of course it covers over the FMIC bottom without interrupting airflow too much. Perfect!
Before
After
Anyway, here's the before and after pics on my MY98 WRX wagon with an early bumper. The grey look to the splitter is Halfords 'dark grey' bumper paint which was a perfect match for the standard plastic side skirts going by the colour on the cap, but came out really light when painted and dried. So I'm going to do it black, but overall I'm well pleased. It balances up the car which now looks a lot tougher with matching skirts/valances/splitters all round. And of course it covers over the FMIC bottom without interrupting airflow too much. Perfect!
Before
After
#139
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LOOKING GOOD SILENT I looked at the P1 splitter to but wasn't sure if their would be fitting issues on the early classic bumper but turns out the one I got for a bug eye was a PITA but got their in the end just need to get it painted now
Let us know what differance you find when you drive it have you jad it mapped yet?
KIP
Let us know what differance you find when you drive it have you jad it mapped yet?
KIP
#140
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Well it's still mapped for the old VF35 / FMIC combination which was bloody fast, but surged badly. I've just fitted a new TD05-16G so waiting to get that remapped now.
#141
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Just brought my next mod some 440cc injectors got a 255walbro coming need a fuel reg next
Can i run the injectors without the remap yet as wont to get all mods done first then get it mapped the once
KIP
Can i run the injectors without the remap yet as wont to get all mods done first then get it mapped the once
KIP
#143
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REVERSED INLET ASWELL HAT OF TO YOU
LOOKING GOOD HOWS IT PERFORM WITH THE REVERSE INLET
KIP
LOOKING GOOD HOWS IT PERFORM WITH THE REVERSE INLET
KIP
#144
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mikalor clamps
hi have just fitted the fmic from the group buy and think its a good idea to upgrade to the above clamps,wondered where you got yours from and wot was the cost many thanks and good fitting guid by the by Ed
#145
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#146
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i used your write up today to fit my fmic to my classic and it saved me and my dad a hell of alot of time as we could find the "hidden bolts" with out to much hassel getin them off was another story though!! well done for putting all the time in so its an easy job for some of use thanks
#147
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I like many other fitted my fmic with no hassel at all reading your instructions, they helped me out no end on a wet saturday afternoon.
Think i may need some of the dv adapter though as im strugling there.
Heres a quick peek. *its getting painted soon don't worry.
Think i may need some of the dv adapter though as im strugling there.
Heres a quick peek. *its getting painted soon don't worry.
#148
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Contact DAONE Thats his sign on on here he can help out with the dv adapter
KIP
GLAD THE WRITE UP HELPED DECIDED ON A COLOUR YET
KIP
GLAD THE WRITE UP HELPED DECIDED ON A COLOUR YET
#149
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