Nice job their silent have heard about the chuff chuff syndrom their is a link in the group buy that goes through this and turns out a weaker spring is the answer Let us all know how you get on to resolve the issue of the chuff chuff

My front splitter turned up today held one of the corners against the bumper and it looks spot on and this will still allow air to pass over the centre bar allowing the air to cool the bottom of the front mount that hangs lower than the bumper

KIP

 

Well I'm already on the weakest Forge spring so I stretched it to twice its length then cut it in half and it seems to have worked. It's definitely made a difference and it's a lot smoother on light throttle although still at half throttle the problem's there to a lesser extent. At full throttle you can drive through it anyway. Going to think up another way of fixing it.

 

i had a very similar problem i resolved it by fitting the reducer that comes with the power intake.
rob

 

SILENT RUNNING, Have a look here this may help you with dv issues
LADS :: View topic - DV problem

Hope this helps

KIP

 

Nice one, confirms what's been discussed on the other thread I started about this. I'll keep my eyes open for a standard DV. Also been given a tip about restricting the diameter of the inlet pipe as well.

Rob - which restrictor?

 

with the apexi power intake for 95 cars it comes with an alloy reducer that can be fitted inside the pipework.the reducer is about 22mm od with about a 12mm hole through the middle.
rob

 

Whereabouts does it fit - inside the air intake pipework? In a vacuum line somewhere?

 

it fits inside the pipe between the fm pipework and the dumpvalve.i have a 95 wrx dv which has a 22mm take off so i have a 37>22mm samco reducer and the reducer is in there.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35...arch070181.jpg
rob

 

Hmmm interesting...

Well I've tried out a standard v4 DV now and it has made a big difference. It's minimised the surge to a quieter chuffing noise which is now at 1 bar boost or above, meaning I can now drive on part throttle and not really encounter it at all. I can live with it now at least. I'd still like to fix it and suspect fitting a really high flowing DV like a Turbosmart plumb-back or APS twin vent would sort it out for good, but I'm not made of money, so I'll stick with the original DV for the time being.

 

WEEKEND HERE And I can finally finish my bugeye splitter conversion
SILENT RUNNING any updates on how shes running now ?

KIP

 

LOL it never rains but it pours...

Now it's mapped for the FMIC (with an extra 4 degrees of advance over the old TMIC), it's so fast at 1.4 bar that I broke the AP clutch, so it's off the road to have a new clutch and flywheel fitted. I'm investigating various options for when it's back on the road including maybe fitting a TD05 instead of my VF35 which may be a bit undersized now I've got the FMIC kit on.

 

SILENT Whats the spec of your engine are you running apexi ecu and yellows?
KIP

 

Had a weekend of fun trying to fit a bugeye splitter on a classic got there in the end;
Need some opinions on wether to paint the splitter all black or the two outer parts silver and leave the centre bar black
And should the side vents be black or silver



KIP

 

looks like you done a really good job...silver side vents; more subtle and they'll make the front splitter contrast more

 

Leave the centre black.

My spec: 2.0 WRX, FMIC & K&N IK, Power FC, ported VF35, yellow 440s, Walbro fuel pump, silicone inlet pipe, ported and wrapped headers/up-pipe, wrapped sports cat downpipe.

 

SORRY BUDDIE Missed this thread my induction is an apexi power intake conversion my car came with the alloy piece between the maf and the turbo it uses the original subaru pipe to the turbo that take the breathers and the dv pipes
got any pics of yours might be able to suggest a way to solve your problem

KIP

 

HOT TIP!!! My FMIC outlet pipe (the one that runs vertically in front of the cambelt cover) had been rubbing on the cover and worn it through so you could see the belt, just by the side to side rocking of the engine. Be very careful! Even if it looks like the pipe just about fits, it's too close to allow any play.

So the secret is, stick it in a vice and squash down and ovalise the whole section from the bottom where it turns to go vertical, right up to a couple of inches from the top where your hose will go. That way you still have the same flow but totally solve the clearance problem.

 

As many people have found out, these FMICs hang down a couple of rows below the bumper and it looks pretty lame, plus is a little too vulnerable down there for my liking. So after a bit of searching I found the P1 splitter which has three slots in the middle for air to go through onto the FMIC's bottom rows. It's like it was made for it, but isn't too fussy looking.

Anyway, here's the before and after pics on my MY98 WRX wagon with an early bumper. The grey look to the splitter is Halfords 'dark grey' bumper paint which was a perfect match for the standard plastic side skirts going by the colour on the cap, but came out really light when painted and dried. So I'm going to do it black, but overall I'm well pleased. It balances up the car which now looks a lot tougher with matching skirts/valances/splitters all round. And of course it covers over the FMIC bottom without interrupting airflow too much. Perfect!

Before



After

 

LOOKING GOOD SILENT I looked at the P1 splitter to but wasn't sure if their would be fitting issues on the early classic bumper but turns out the one I got for a bug eye was a PITA but got their in the end just need to get it painted now

Let us know what differance you find when you drive it have you jad it mapped yet?

KIP

 

Well it's still mapped for the old VF35 / FMIC combination which was bloody fast, but surged badly. I've just fitted a new TD05-16G so waiting to get that remapped now.

 

Just brought my next mod some 440cc injectors got a 255walbro coming need a fuel reg next
Can i run the injectors without the remap yet as wont to get all mods done first then get it mapped the once

KIP

 

Here's mine all finished.






Daz

 

REVERSED INLET ASWELL HAT OF TO YOU

LOOKING GOOD HOWS IT PERFORM WITH THE REVERSE INLET
KIP

 

hi have just fitted the fmic from the group buy and think its a good idea to upgrade to the above clamps,wondered where you got yours from and wot was the cost many thanks and good fitting guid by the by Ed

 

PM SENT ED

KIP

 

i used your write up today to fit my fmic to my classic and it saved me and my dad a hell of alot of time as we could find the "hidden bolts" with out to much hassel getin them off was another story though!! well done for putting all the time in so its an easy job for some of use thanks

 

I like many other fitted my fmic with no hassel at all reading your instructions, they helped me out no end on a wet saturday afternoon.

Think i may need some of the dv adapter though as im strugling there.

Heres a quick peek. *its getting painted soon don't worry.

 

Contact DAONE Thats his sign on on here he can help out with the dv adapter

KIP

GLAD THE WRITE UP HELPED DECIDED ON A COLOUR YET

 

Thanks KIP,i'll contact him mate, as for the colour i shall be sticking with the same and keeping it all white.

 

sorry to crash your thread kips
has anyone got a fitting guide for the autobahn88 on to a newage,or know a link for one?
cheers