FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER PROJECT
#91
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Warwickshire, UK
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
KIPS, would you say it was necessary to remove the IC in order to get at the turbo to put the blanket on? Also have you got bigger pics of the relevant ones for me to look at with it in mind I want to fit my blanket and am a Muppet at these things! If you do I can PM email address to send too...
Cheers
Molds
PS This is gonna sound daft but...what did you use to measure it with? Bit of string? Soft dress makers tape?
Cheers
Molds
PS This is gonna sound daft but...what did you use to measure it with? Bit of string? Soft dress makers tape?
Last edited by Molds; 27 March 2007 at 05:35 PM.
#92
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
KIPS, would you say it was necessary to remove the IC in order to get at the turbo to put the blanket on? Also have you got bigger pics of the relevant ones for me to look at with it in mind I want to fit my blanket and am a Muppet at these things! If you do I can PM email address to send too...
Cheers
Molds
PS This is gonna sound daft but...what did you use to measure it with? Bit of string? Soft dress makers tape?
Cheers
Molds
PS This is gonna sound daft but...what did you use to measure it with? Bit of string? Soft dress makers tape?
#93
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
going to refit the foglights tommorow and the lights to finish of the thread then its going to get striped down for painting
KIPS
KIPS
#94
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JUST UPDATED THE FRONT MOUNT PROJECT
Finely fitted the fog lights today with the headlights and the sidelights
just got to find some silicon hose to plumb in the dv sort out the boost solenoid pipes and the take the bumper off for painting trying to find a front lip spoiler that i like so will be hunting on ebay later
KIP
HAVE ADDED TO THE FIRST THREAD ALL THE DETAILS AND THE PICS SO ITS ALL TOGETHER
Finely fitted the fog lights today with the headlights and the sidelights
just got to find some silicon hose to plumb in the dv sort out the boost solenoid pipes and the take the bumper off for painting trying to find a front lip spoiler that i like so will be hunting on ebay later
KIP
HAVE ADDED TO THE FIRST THREAD ALL THE DETAILS AND THE PICS SO ITS ALL TOGETHER
#96
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Back in Diesel wonderland - 3.0 TDi Quattro A4, with more toys than Ann Summers...lol
Posts: 4,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice work, KIPS, great write up. Always amazes me just how talented some of the folks on Snet are.
David
David
#98
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: book price for my SCOOB = £1115
Posts: 11,645
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you may want to contact HAYNES MANUAL'S
& get them to make a manual for the classic, With the Mods that can be done..
you work is TOP MARKS
& get them to make a manual for the classic, With the Mods that can be done..
you work is TOP MARKS
#101
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finlay found a front splitter thats a bit different from the norm should be arriving next week once fitted i can get the front bumper painted going to do the splitter black to match the bumper side vents i done
what do you think let me know
CHEERS ALL KIP
what do you think let me know
CHEERS ALL KIP
#103
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Found this one on EBAY as set
But also found them in the states as the corners then the middle bar ill dig out a link for you and pm it
I havent seen one like this before either I like it as the front mount hangs lower than the bumper and the middle bar will allow air through
cheers KIP
But also found them in the states as the corners then the middle bar ill dig out a link for you and pm it
I havent seen one like this before either I like it as the front mount hangs lower than the bumper and the middle bar will allow air through
cheers KIP
#104
Scooby Regular
Good work Kip. I've just finished a marathon 4 day session using this thread as a guide for some of it. Started off with fitting Harvey's ported headers and up-pipe, wrapping the headers and my downpipe myself, then changing the rocker cover gasket which has turned out to be a recurring nightmare that still isn't finished. While I was there I changed the O-ring on the fuel pressure regulator and ported the turbo.
Then finally I got onto fitting the FMIC which I've just about sort of finished. I had to cut a little out of the nearside bodywork to get the pipe around, and my bumper bar is more rust and holes than metal. I also had to cut quite a big section out of each of the bumper bar supports that slot into the chassis rails. Offside plumbing is pretty straightforward. The nearside pipework is not exactly as I'd like it yet - it's bloody tight just about everywhere and I'm still not happy with how close it runs to the nearside fan, but still, it'll do. Anyway the car starts and runs, that's the main thing. Last job is to cut the bumper, so as a starting point I'm gonna take the grille out, and then go from there.
Last problem is to link the dumpvalve to the outlet on the pipe. It's close, but not quite close enough to go easily. I'm going to try to use my original L shaped TMIC dump valve pipe (luckily I have a v4) but it's very tight.
Then finally I got onto fitting the FMIC which I've just about sort of finished. I had to cut a little out of the nearside bodywork to get the pipe around, and my bumper bar is more rust and holes than metal. I also had to cut quite a big section out of each of the bumper bar supports that slot into the chassis rails. Offside plumbing is pretty straightforward. The nearside pipework is not exactly as I'd like it yet - it's bloody tight just about everywhere and I'm still not happy with how close it runs to the nearside fan, but still, it'll do. Anyway the car starts and runs, that's the main thing. Last job is to cut the bumper, so as a starting point I'm gonna take the grille out, and then go from there.
Last problem is to link the dumpvalve to the outlet on the pipe. It's close, but not quite close enough to go easily. I'm going to try to use my original L shaped TMIC dump valve pipe (luckily I have a v4) but it's very tight.
#105
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NICE ONE SILENT,LET US KNOW WHAT DIFFERANCE THE FRONT MOUNT MADE
Especialy in the warmer weather weve had
CHEERS KIP
Especialy in the warmer weather weve had
CHEERS KIP
#107
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#109
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#111
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice one CHEERS hope its a pic of the early classic as that what its going on
k
KIP
k
KIP
#112
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manchester ish
Posts: 18,547
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just finished my monster fmic install also on a my93, what a ball ache. Good guide though!!
cant believe that the pipework has to be cut to get it to fit.
I have boosting issues at the moment due to some weird induction pipework which catches on my actuator so should sort that in a day or 2. Turbo side
pipework is hot, post intercooler it is nice and cool
cant believe that the pipework has to be cut to get it to fit.
I have boosting issues at the moment due to some weird induction pipework which catches on my actuator so should sort that in a day or 2. Turbo side
pipework is hot, post intercooler it is nice and cool
#113
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I couldn't beleive i had to cut the pipr but once cut fitted a lot better clears the oil filler and allows you to move the pipe away from the rad fan cowling
got a group buy going on heat wrap we get 30% off list price if you want to make it cooler
let us know how it drives IE lag issues ?
KIP
got a group buy going on heat wrap we get 30% off list price if you want to make it cooler
let us know how it drives IE lag issues ?
KIP
#114
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tintern, just outside chepstow
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just wanted to say a big thanks to Kips, your guide was invaluable when fitting my new FMIC! Only had to alter from them slightly for them to work on my 00 turbo. Cheers
#115
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YOUR WELCOME RUSTYNUTZ
You gonna fit a splitter P1 will work well on yours or the bug eye as in my pic
let us know how it performs
CHEERS KIP
You gonna fit a splitter P1 will work well on yours or the bug eye as in my pic
let us know how it performs
CHEERS KIP
#117
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manchester ish
Posts: 18,547
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kips, question for you.
I also have a 93wrx and on my induction pipework, I have my filter, then the maf (same as yours) but then I have a bulbous bit which connects to the plastic turbo elbow. You dont have that on your, have you always had what you have got there or is it from a replacement car? If so what is it from or what is it? Mine is causing issues with it resting on the actuator arm when the bonnet is closed.
Cheers
I also have a 93wrx and on my induction pipework, I have my filter, then the maf (same as yours) but then I have a bulbous bit which connects to the plastic turbo elbow. You dont have that on your, have you always had what you have got there or is it from a replacement car? If so what is it from or what is it? Mine is causing issues with it resting on the actuator arm when the bonnet is closed.
Cheers
#118
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: shropshire/somerset
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hi KIPS can u send me the web site u saw that splitter on as i really like that i think seen it on ebay or somewhere once before is it fibre glass or plastic
cheers
chris
cheers
chris
#119
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ESSEX ...BORN AND BRED PETROL HEAD....................... MANS BEST FRIEND IS A ENGLISH BULL TERRIER
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Think the one i got comimng is original but have found the ones in the pic on ebay their fibreglass they come as two seperate parts the corners and then the centre bar ill have to dig about on ebay usa under jdm splitter then if iI find it again ill pm you details
KIP
#120
Scooby Regular
Pics of finished FMIC installation
Finally finished, been to Zen for a remap, got home, tidied up the engine bay, mountings etc and it's done. Getting a bit dark so the picture is not great, but it looks pretty mental I reckon. As with most others, it's got a bit hanging below the bumper but it's not a major problem. It's totally solid in there, the movement is mainly in the pipe run from the turbo to the offside wing - a bit of a tip there for future installers...make sure the FMIC and piping is all rock solid behind the bumper and up to the battery, because there's zero clearance for movement basically. Only the turbo pipe should be flexible.
I've gone big on heat management. The headers, up-pipe and downpipe are now wrapped all the way just past the cat. All the intercooler piping within the engine bay is wrapped in fibreglass/foil heat tape. So far it's doing the job - the charge temperatures I've been seeing are unbelievably good compared to my old FMIC. A hard run through the gears at full throttle at 1 bar puts a measly 2 degrees extra on the charge temp. At idle the temps actually drop. Constant driving yesterday didn't see more than 16 degrees top whack, regardless of how I drove. On the way back from mapping I think Paul said the most he'd seen on the readout was 25 degrees and that's mapped for 1.4 bar.
It has thrown up one major problem though - I'm getting terrible compressor surge now. It's a chuff-chuff-chuff noise that feels like a misfire when on part throttle, because it's bouncing air back through the new Nismo Z32 MAF sensor. It's now much more noticeable because of the much larger volume of air that's bouncing back and forth around the boost circuit. I've been told it's down to the VF35 being so fast to spool up that the boost can't get through the partly closed throttle and it can't be dumped fast enough through the dump valve either. On full throttle it's not a problem and it's only at 3000-3500rpm. Anyway the solution is to fit a weaker spring in the DV and see if that fixes it. I'll try that tonight.
BTW to plumb in the DV (MY98 / v4) I just bought a 38mm 45 degree bend, cut it to the right length and it fitted easily. That's with a Forge recirculating dump valve through.
ONE LAST TIP - if you start fitting and it doesn't seem to fit properly, rest assured it WILL go, as long as you're prepared to cut stuff up LOL. I had it all offered up and it seemed to fit perfect, until I tried on the bumper and then my problems started. It might look like you don't need to cut any metalwork, but you do. Mine's a MY98 so supposedly it should be a straight fit, but I definitely had to get busy with the jigsaw and tin snips - both bumper bar supports, metalwork to the side of each tow eye, nearside at the bottom where it goes through to the engine bay, and offside I still had to cut between the two holes in the wing for it to all fit nicely. You will lose your brake ducts, but with a bit of trimming the front-of-wheelarch splashshields will go back on. Foglight are bloody tight and you have to take quite a lot of metal out of the bottom of their backing plates, but still leave the bolt holes - tin snips were best for this job. Can't think of anything else to say!
I've gone big on heat management. The headers, up-pipe and downpipe are now wrapped all the way just past the cat. All the intercooler piping within the engine bay is wrapped in fibreglass/foil heat tape. So far it's doing the job - the charge temperatures I've been seeing are unbelievably good compared to my old FMIC. A hard run through the gears at full throttle at 1 bar puts a measly 2 degrees extra on the charge temp. At idle the temps actually drop. Constant driving yesterday didn't see more than 16 degrees top whack, regardless of how I drove. On the way back from mapping I think Paul said the most he'd seen on the readout was 25 degrees and that's mapped for 1.4 bar.
It has thrown up one major problem though - I'm getting terrible compressor surge now. It's a chuff-chuff-chuff noise that feels like a misfire when on part throttle, because it's bouncing air back through the new Nismo Z32 MAF sensor. It's now much more noticeable because of the much larger volume of air that's bouncing back and forth around the boost circuit. I've been told it's down to the VF35 being so fast to spool up that the boost can't get through the partly closed throttle and it can't be dumped fast enough through the dump valve either. On full throttle it's not a problem and it's only at 3000-3500rpm. Anyway the solution is to fit a weaker spring in the DV and see if that fixes it. I'll try that tonight.
BTW to plumb in the DV (MY98 / v4) I just bought a 38mm 45 degree bend, cut it to the right length and it fitted easily. That's with a Forge recirculating dump valve through.
ONE LAST TIP - if you start fitting and it doesn't seem to fit properly, rest assured it WILL go, as long as you're prepared to cut stuff up LOL. I had it all offered up and it seemed to fit perfect, until I tried on the bumper and then my problems started. It might look like you don't need to cut any metalwork, but you do. Mine's a MY98 so supposedly it should be a straight fit, but I definitely had to get busy with the jigsaw and tin snips - both bumper bar supports, metalwork to the side of each tow eye, nearside at the bottom where it goes through to the engine bay, and offside I still had to cut between the two holes in the wing for it to all fit nicely. You will lose your brake ducts, but with a bit of trimming the front-of-wheelarch splashshields will go back on. Foglight are bloody tight and you have to take quite a lot of metal out of the bottom of their backing plates, but still leave the bolt holes - tin snips were best for this job. Can't think of anything else to say!
Last edited by silent running; 12 April 2007 at 08:53 PM.