Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Thanks John - I didn't realise how tricky it can be drilling just 4 holes in a straight line!

The superbright LEDs I chose have a viewing angle of 24 deg (some available are even less) but as long as they are facing you they are bright enough to notice with peripheral vision.

Justin

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Looks very neat Jay. I was looking to do that, as I have the same Pod, but ending up putting a 10 LED version in the Ashtray.

I hope you have a switch to turn it off, as it get anoying after a while if on all the time.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Just looked at the settings for the Dawes AFR on Jamies website

>>1st light (red)=.79v-.83v

2nd light (yellow)= .83v-.85

3rd light (green)= .85v-.87v.

4th light (High Intensity Blue)= .87v to limit of O2 sensor

My thoughts are this: 850mV (0.85V) is 5.5% CO which I have gathered is too lean for boost of, say 1.0 bar (which is the point I wish to monitor AFR) hence I have my red LED set to this. I also gather 7% (870mV) is a good target for safe high boost AFR, so my green LED is at this point, yellow is at 6%.

Am I being too conservative?
Should I widen my range a bit? It works fine on the bench but will it be too sensitive for the lambda sensor?
Or (dare I suggest) is going Green at 5.5% a bit missleading for high boost AFR monitoring?

Your thoughts?

Justin

john banks

Doesn't really matter as long as you know what they mean and you should always see the top light as just about any vaguely standard ECU car with a working lambda sensor will probably be over 900 mV.

john banks

If you have this why bother with a LambdaLink or have you already ordered it?

Correct on the test procedure - the 220K was just a handy one I had lying around - basically not too low that it will flow to much current and run down your battery too quickly. One 9V battery did all the development from scratch on this circuit from design to final installation in the car of a second version which took power from the car battery.

Obviously I have a steadier screwdriver hand than you as I can get them within 1mV in the dark, snowing, lying upside down under the dash with a screwdriver!

So on your kitchen table it should not be too difficult

How are you guys going to go one when I give you a DIY EBC to build? Still some development to do yet.

[Edited by john banks - 1/9/2002 7:07:50 PM]

john banks

A/S level electronics and you can't read circuit diagrams I have "No" level electronics and I can

Or was it my skills with Paint that misled you? Couldn't be bothered doing proper earth signs. Leave that to the tree huggers.

[Edited by john banks - 1/9/2002 10:10:57 PM]

kevin stanton

well, i've done it.



i've now got to decide where to put it.









all car photo's were taken from drivers seat
any idea's or suggestions

Kevin

[Edited by kevin stanton - 3/9/2002 12:16:58 PM]

mutant_matt

John,

I failed my a/s level electronics if you remember I would have to put it down to your paint skills, if one of the pins on T2 is supposed to not be connected then surely there should not be a line connected to it on the diagram? I thought that as the top pin goes to Ground and the other pin is an input for 4, 8 & T1, I assumed that the "other" line had to be positive

mole - I do remember school but it seems so far away now (am 30 this month )

Matt

[Edited by mutant_matt - 1/10/2002 7:30:53 AM]

mole

Finally got round to posting this!

Etched my board at school & soldered components.
Wired it up to a 9v battery and used a DVM to setup the two pots.

Got pin4 to 700mV and pin6 to 899mV - not bad!

Tested each LED and got the following results:

Expected | Actual
720mV | 722mV
740mV | 741mV
760mV | 760mV
780mV | 782mV
800mV | 801mV
820mV | 819mV
840mV | 839mV
860mV | 860mV
880mV | 880mV
900mV | 899mV




The actual board is on the left - it measures 60mm/35mm & LED + 20pin DIL holder sit 13mm off board - 15mm total height.

That will fit in the 60mm/35mm/17mm ABS box from farnells mentioned earlier in this thread. ( Order No. 3536427 - 80p!).
I've got that on order now.

The breadboard was used to hold the third pot in place for simulation of the lambda sensor. Just made it easier for me.

Will post more pics for anyone who is interested when its in the case and in the car.

Cheers for listening.. Mole

[Edited by mole - 2/10/2002 10:03:09 PM]

Jolly Green Monster 2

This was all bound me, then someone (my Dad) bought my a Dawes AFR for Christmas.. interesting reading and I now grasp what all the lights mean

Jay,

How have you got on with it mate?
Looks good with leds in the pod!

Are those wheels I sold you still being fitted for trackdays?

Scott,

Thanks for emailing me the link to this thread.

John,

Thanks for starting it all.

JGM

john banks

OMG a while since this was dredged up

Chris.Palmer

Justin,

I missed your original post in July - aving just replied to your other thread - & seeing how neat those LEDs look - I've gotta ask:
Where did you mount & hide that BLuddy enormous breadboard

Chris

buzzerboyroy

hahahahahahaha
sorry i find that quirk very amusing,
i have to be honest i may have a go at making one of these instead of buying one as i am an electrician it should be a doddle for me.

john banks

Note that for any serious tuning the lack of accuracy of the narrowband away from 14.7:1 makes this project mainly a set of flashing lights. I no longer have it on my car, instead I have a knocklink.

I suppose this meter tells you your MAF sensor has not blown and that is about it

buzzerboyroy

oh dear,thats a shame,,,,
i had better not have a go then as knowing my luck i will blow up my car!!!!
i shall buy a dawes afm then!!!!!to be on the safe side
pity that!!

buzzerboyroy

whats the best one do you recon?????

john banks

Honest answer - none of them. Get a knocklink.

buzzerboyroy

cheers john!!!!!!!!
a knocklink it is,,thanks for the info on the other thead i started about dawes ,,very apreciated,,thanks.

Jolly Green Monster 2

So as a MAF sensor dead detector it is not bad then!

Knocklink on the shopping list already..

JGM

gegecap1

I have a 2001 WRX and as you know, the front O2 sensor is not delivering 0 to 1 volts so I have to plus my AFR meter on the rear O2 sensor.
The question that I have regarding Lambda monitoring is how accurate is the O2 lambda in reading AFR as it is after the pre-catalyser (BTW, I have a full decat pipe after the Turbo)???
I suppose the uppipe catalyser is changing a bit the O2 readings? Yes/No, is it noticeable ? My meter (DVM for the moment) shows a 0,89 volts at WOT so it should be OK.
Thanks for your inputs !

john banks

The cat delays and smooths the rear O2 signal. It is a very rough guide, but only truly accurate at 14.7:1.

gegecap1

Thanks John ! Any ideas in order to monitor the front one on WRX?
I've been told that the ECU is monitoring the current flow and not the voltage from the front O2 and I wouldn't want to mess up the signal by plugging a voltmeter or a gauge on it !!

john banks

Delta Dash from www.ecutek.co.uk will read the front wideband, although the range on the wideband stops any richer than about 11:1 - the car tends to run richer than this so the output will saturate here approximately.

gegecap1

I know I need DeltaDash !!! BTW, I also need it to monitor my stock EGT probe.
But the purpose is to have an AFR gauge next to my boost gauge and not a laptop in the car... Obviously, the wideband front O2 sensor is very good for AFR monitoring.
Anybody already made this gauge for a WRX here ?

john banks

It would be a custom design. Not heard of any. No I am not designing one

gegecap1

Thanks for your help indeed, I'm going to investigate and will let you know the results ...

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

JGM

I am getting on very well with it, however I look at the EGT on track (wearing your wheels still ), its a much better safety measure. Nonetheless now that the AFR is in its going to stay, its a neat way of checking the lambda sensor



The next step is to extend the LEDS from a knocklink and try and do another neat(ish) install somewhere, then get one of those ScoobyEcu thingys

Chris, LOL theres some top secret R+D stuff on there, I may have to buy a wagon to hide my next breadboard

This thread brought back a few memories....

Justin

Jolly Green Monster 2

Jay,

Looks good installed too..

Glad the wheels are of use still.

I have just fitted a ScoobyEcu and very happy with it.

Tak it easy

JGM

rex11

Has anyone else made a homemade wideband tuning module. This website (http://www.diy-wb.com/02info.htm) has the directions for making one. It uses the wideband sensor off of a lean-burn civic and would be a great perminant or temporary tuning tool. The total cost is around $150(us) for the sensor, SMALL bread board, adn ancillary items. The display can cost more depending on what you use.

My question is this, I have a US MY02(ukMY01..bugeye) and I believe that the front O2 sensor is a wide-band. Why not just use the signal coming off this O2 sensor if it is a wideband and the rest is cake. Even if the signal is noisy past 11:1, I don't know of too many performance tuned cars that run richer than 12:1. Any thought would be appreciated.

Keep up these posts as we have hardly anyone i the states that has done this sort of thing for the subies.

john banks

I am using the Aus DIY WB, but it needs a specific NTK 5 wire Honda sensor, which is different to the Subaru wideband. You would be better trying to get the data out of the ECU with an OBD-2 scan tool if it supports this (probably not?) or DeltaDash.