I had the 6000k and IMHO you wouldn't want them any 'bluer'..!

Pics to come..

 

6000k does gives the best light... if you check the Genuine Autos web page (link on page 1) you'll see the different temps and there light output/wavelength...

 

4300k are the brightest. The higher up you go the less light output there is.

 

Quite right sorry 4got there was one around the 4000k mark... but most ppl will go for the 6000k as it gives extremely good lighting, plus has a slight hint of blue which is nice!

 

Nice one lads thanks for your advice. How long does this groupbuy run for as all being well i hope to place an order some time next week.

James

 

Infinate time frame!

 

How do you stand with the rating and MOT would 8000k/12000K fail an MOT?

I

 

Anyone got an instalation guide for the single beam kit?

With pics

 

I've got 12000k's and I'm not too sure about the MOT situation. One guy said when he fitted his HID's he left the original loom tucked away and said that for MOT's it was a 2min job to re fit the original bulbs back...

I cant see 8000k being an MOT failure, but 12000k maybe...?

 

Should be exonctly the same as the bi kit just without the bulb holder. You should have instructions with the single beam kit that shows you need to do a bit of DIY on the lamp b4 inserting the bulbs.

 

Well my instructions are pretty vague TBH.. so a nice install guide with pics would work wonders

 

Yes for the H1 kit it's similar to the instructions provided by the guide earlier on except you don't need to use the hi/low gear box that comes with all kits as standard.

I just used the wiring loom/relay connected directly to the battery and connected to the left handside original wiring connectors that normally go on the bulb which act as the switch.

As said the only thing you need to fiddle with is the waterproof plastic cap that screws on behind the lamp to seal the bulbs in. I removed mine and used a drill with a hole cutter to cut a hole about 20mm in. You get some big grommits with the kit which then fit into the hole that the wires pass through to seal it back up.

The original wiring is left in place so if you needed to put the normal bulbs back in for an MOT it really is a case of unplugging the HID bulbs and plugging the normal ones back in.

 

Cool, cant wait to fit mine now!.

Got any pics of the wiring that goes to the stock loom?

 

I never took any pics of the wiring as i've routed it pretty much out of site. It is quite easy though.

A wire to the + / - on the battery. A wire (+ / -)to each HID bulb and if i remember rightly a + / - wire that needs to connect to the original wiring ne one of the originial head lamps, in my case the near side as it's only a short wire. I found when connecting the switch wiring to one of the original connectors i had to nip the spade connector a little to get a tight fit.

 

Fitment is very straightforward (well the H4 is is anyway).

Worth noting that there is a significant difference in the light output between the different colour/temp bulbs, so worth thinking about when ordering.

4300k is what manufacturers use on OE HID systems.

Haven't seen the 6000k so cant comment but 8000k looks very 'aftermarket' and not as bright as the 4300k.

I'd expect trouble with law enforcement with 8000k and upwards.

I still have one spare bulb left from the other GB if anyone wants to snap it up. H1 fitment, 6000k colour/temp - only £17.

 

arghh want to order now but do i get 6000k or 8000k. could i replace the 8000k bulbs with 6000k at a later date/???

 

I would choose between 4300k (if you want best light and OE Xenon colour) and 6000k (if you want a bluer tint at the slight expense of output).

You can change the bulbs at a later date, but they arent cheap (£50-75).

 

Cant wait to fit mine

 

Pretty much as BOB'5 has said... between 6000k and 8000k it just gets bluer and you loose a slight bit of output. However you can order new bulbs which will be delivered as quick as the HID kits...

For Classics with H4 bulbs its £75 a pair delivered and for New age with H3 etc its £50 a pair delivered

 

Alex, have you fitted your two kits yet?

 

H4 9000K

Fitted my HIDs yesterday, not as blue as people say they are.

 

Looking good... trust me matey they are blue... what you need to do is let a mate drive your car while you drive theirs infront... pick dusk/early eve to go for a drive - you will see seriosuly blue light!

I drive infront of my mate who has 6000k and even that temp look blue. Give it a try, you'll be sururised how they look at a distance!

 

Nope, not yet... my car has been in the body shop for over a week now having sum cosmetic surgery on her rear end...

Once I get my hands on her I'll rip the front bumper off and get fitting!

 

Photo's are coming, promise.. but IMHO, having just fitted 6000k, I'd go for the 4000k (I will if/when the bulbs need changing).

As Alex and Bob say, 8000k must be really blue as my 6000k's are blueish..!

 

4000/4300k are the whitest and brightest - but thats boring man... go for 8000k ultra blue or 12000k (like me) for ultra leryness! lol!

Seriously tho, my friend just got the 6000k and they look white with an ever so slight blue when you look at them head on... at nite they have an ever so slight purple/blue reflection on the road.

IMO 6000k are the best for all those reasons! Very cool bulbs!




Just seen my friend is selling his 6000k bulbs due to just buying 8000k... I'm now not sure if the bulbs I saw him with are the 6000 or 8000? How usless am I?! lol!

 

Just received my second set of these for the dip beam- the 1st set was so good in the main beam I could not stand having to dip!

I wonder if anybody can shed some light on my questions below:

Noticed on the box that it says, "Do not switch on and off the light frequently to ensure the battery life of bulb".

I have also been told that you should allow a cool down period before switching the HIDs back on after switching them off. ie. you should not flick the main beam straight back on after dipping.

The box or manual does not specify how long a cool down period should be, if at all required.

Does it shorten bulb life by a significant amount?
Should you allow a period of time with them off before switching back on?

TIA Steve

 

Ordered mine Monday night arrived Thursday morning.
Will probably fit next weekend due to battling with rusty exhaust bolts this weekend trying whilst to fit the vortex.

Pics to come when done

 

Following on from that, on the dual beam bulbs for the classics, what happens if you give just a quick flash of main beam? For example saying thank you (I always do, but millions don't!) or letting someone out of a junction etc? The HID dipped lights on our Laguna take a while to come to colour but use ordinary bulbs for the main beam so it's not an issue.

IIRC earlier in the thread somebody mentioned there might be a significant power spike on start up. I don't want to unnecessarily overload things if it shortens lifespan. Or am I being stoopid and I should just hurry up and buy the bleedin things?

LOL

I'll get me coat.

 

Was about to reply to 'beensoldaduffscooby's post!!

With regards to the HID's in the classics (H4 type), it only uses one bulb (per light obviously ). When you switch to main beam, the bulb position moves back via a magnetic switch on the bulb (i think!) so the light output stays the same, if that makes sense?. The main beam isn't quite as good as I'd hoped but the dipped is MILES better.

beensoldaduffscooby,
Assume you have a newage, which has separate bulbs for main beam?
Might be better the other way round, i.e. HID's on the dipped and standard bulbs on the main beam (like paulthejambo says above), that way your HID's always stay on. Better to have them on dipped IMHO.

I don't know about lifespan though!!

Mark

 

I've had mine fitted for a couple of months now, the only thing I avoid is starting the car with the lights on, this would drain current from the system and cause the lights to flicker.

As for letting them cool down before going to main beam again, I wouldn't worry too much, the price of replacement lamps is so cheap now who cares if they only last 18 months.

I've ordered a spare set of lamps and one ballast just incase the worst should happen, with the 3 year warranty the faulty units can go back and I'll use the spares to keep me on the road. (always change lamps in pairs if poss imo).

My car does numerous long trips a week in the dark and the lights have performed evey bit as good as my previous Philips lamps and ballasts, but at 1/3 of the price.

Beware of the 100's of crappy sets of HID's on Ebay, whoever makes this particular brand for Genuine does a decent job, I dont think we've seen a faulty unit yet in this group buy?