DIY 450 bhp Classic 2.0L
Originally Posted by Knighty99
hope u used etch primer to eat into the bare metal? So the primer sticks to the metal and doesn't pick off?
Originally Posted by Knighty99
Good Good, done it properly then, i work in a body shop so any questions i'll be glad to help if i can?
Dan
Dan
Might need your advice later on. I've never used a spray gun before but I'll see how I get on !!
Daz
I know primer application is different from final painting but did you not put the primer on with a spray gun too ?
Only asking as i'm looking to do similar on a project once i find a shell to put my engine into.
Great work though Daz.
Only asking as i'm looking to do similar on a project once i find a shell to put my engine into.
Great work though Daz.
No I didn't have a compressor then so I used about four cans of Aerosol.
The floor pan will be a different story though. Have borrowed a compressor from a mate and once the floor is prep'd both primer and top coats will be done with the compressor.
Hope fully this will be next week.
Daz
Ok chaps, here's one for you.
I am considering reversing my inlet and going for the GT30R rotated setup.
I am just experimenting with bits and pieces. Take a look at the picture and see if you think the pulley arrangement would be ok.
Basically I have chopped down the original alternator bracket so the alternator can be flipped over to the other side thus giving room for the inlet feed from the intercooler.
I found a front mount intercooler mounting bracket lying about in the garage which conveniently had all the holes in the right place and was the right length. I also had a timing belt pully knocking about and thought that this would be a possible solution to use as a belt tensioner.
The standard adjuster will be used but instead of pulling the alternator tight it would push the timing belt pulley onto the belt and putting tension on that way. Its a bit crude as its a first go prototype thing but I would value the opinions of those of you that have done this or those with more engineering knowledge than i have.

Do you think it would work?
Daz
I am considering reversing my inlet and going for the GT30R rotated setup.
I am just experimenting with bits and pieces. Take a look at the picture and see if you think the pulley arrangement would be ok.
Basically I have chopped down the original alternator bracket so the alternator can be flipped over to the other side thus giving room for the inlet feed from the intercooler.
I found a front mount intercooler mounting bracket lying about in the garage which conveniently had all the holes in the right place and was the right length. I also had a timing belt pully knocking about and thought that this would be a possible solution to use as a belt tensioner.
The standard adjuster will be used but instead of pulling the alternator tight it would push the timing belt pulley onto the belt and putting tension on that way. Its a bit crude as its a first go prototype thing but I would value the opinions of those of you that have done this or those with more engineering knowledge than i have.

Do you think it would work?
Daz
Have made some good progress today. I have managed to reverse the manifold and re-route the wiring loom.
I then dropped the engine back in the car and cut the intercooler pipes to roughly the position they will be in just to get an idea of fit.
Here's a pic of the engine in situ with the manifold reversed, the alternator moved, and a pulley belt in place all tensioned up.

Here's one with the intercooler pipes cut roughly to size and in position.

I thought I might get away without having to use a sandwich plate between the manifold and the throttle body but as expected the intercooler pipe work clashes with the bonnet when its closed. So off to a local engineering shop tomorrow to get a rough cost for them to make one.
Daz
I then dropped the engine back in the car and cut the intercooler pipes to roughly the position they will be in just to get an idea of fit.
Here's a pic of the engine in situ with the manifold reversed, the alternator moved, and a pulley belt in place all tensioned up.

Here's one with the intercooler pipes cut roughly to size and in position.

I thought I might get away without having to use a sandwich plate between the manifold and the throttle body but as expected the intercooler pipe work clashes with the bonnet when its closed. So off to a local engineering shop tomorrow to get a rough cost for them to make one.
Daz
Been busy over the last couple of days.
Got a mate to weld up the intercooler pipe that i cut to length and in the right places.
Note the dump valve location. This needed to be cut from the orginal intercooler pipe work and relocated to the new pipe. I hope this will work OK ???
Here's some pics
Reverse inlet pipe work mock up.



Inlet manifold and angle wedge primed prior to painting.


Parallel Fuel rails and Nismo 740cc Injectors

SX Fuel Pressure regulator setup and fuel rail.

More to come tomorrow.
Daz
Got a mate to weld up the intercooler pipe that i cut to length and in the right places.
Note the dump valve location. This needed to be cut from the orginal intercooler pipe work and relocated to the new pipe. I hope this will work OK ???
Here's some pics
Reverse inlet pipe work mock up.



Inlet manifold and angle wedge primed prior to painting.


Parallel Fuel rails and Nismo 740cc Injectors

SX Fuel Pressure regulator setup and fuel rail.

More to come tomorrow.
Daz
I Got this today as cheap as chips although I had to drive over to Rhyl in North Wales to get it.
Here's some pics:



More progress. I've tidied things up a bit ready for dropping the engine back in.
Some pics



Pics:
Lined up ready to drop in.

in she goes

Dropped in and bolted up.

Started to put it all back together.

Getting there slowly but surely.
Daz
Here's some pics:



More progress. I've tidied things up a bit ready for dropping the engine back in.
Some pics



Pics:
Lined up ready to drop in.

in she goes

Dropped in and bolted up.

Started to put it all back together.

Getting there slowly but surely.
Daz
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looking very nice, I think though unfortunatly you might find you need more wrap than that with the belt on the ps pump. Easily sorted if you do mind 
Simon

Simon
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From: In a 405 BHP/360 ft/lb P1 with SN superstar Sonic dog at my side!
Good stuff Daz. Install looks pukka although i will have to reserve judgement on the white theme till its all finished.
The DV take off will be fine there, i have seen them a lot further away from the TB on some early HKS intercoolers.
The DV take off will be fine there, i have seen them a lot further away from the TB on some early HKS intercoolers.
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Right then the engine is in. Everything is bolted on and ready to go.
Just need to buy the turbo kit from the states now.
Here's the lastest pic. Those of you that know your way around a scooby will notice some differences:
The inlet has been reversed to shorten the intercooler pipework and reduce lag.
The header tank has been relocated to the drivers side suspension turret.
The Boost Control Solenoid and the Map sensor that used to reside on the drivers side suspension Turret has been removed. These are the wires you see at the back of the engine bay near the alarm siren. I havent decided where I am going to put them yet and have to wait until the turbo is installed.
Anyway enough waffling here's a pic

Daz
Just need to buy the turbo kit from the states now.
Here's the lastest pic. Those of you that know your way around a scooby will notice some differences:
The inlet has been reversed to shorten the intercooler pipework and reduce lag.
The header tank has been relocated to the drivers side suspension turret.
The Boost Control Solenoid and the Map sensor that used to reside on the drivers side suspension Turret has been removed. These are the wires you see at the back of the engine bay near the alarm siren. I havent decided where I am going to put them yet and have to wait until the turbo is installed.
Anyway enough waffling here's a pic

Daz
Hi daz its chris with the red poorly scoob at the moment, i def no who i will be turning to with my problems now, iv only managed to read about half this thread as my eyes are now pretty sore lol,
my new wheels will be here on fri after two were slightly damaged so hopefully she will be on her feet again, il get ur no from Gaz and have to pick ur brains with my machine in the not to near future
keep up the good work mate il look forward to seeing it soon!!
my new wheels will be here on fri after two were slightly damaged so hopefully she will be on her feet again, il get ur no from Gaz and have to pick ur brains with my machine in the not to near future
keep up the good work mate il look forward to seeing it soon!!
All sorts have happened in the last few months. I will update the thread properly later.
But basically the car is now a two seat, roll caged job.
I've also had a massive change of plans regarding the engin side of things.
I made my mind up on which turbo I wanted a long time ago. I went out in a 2.0L with the turbo of choice which is a garrett GT30R and I didn't particularly like how the car drove, it seamed very laggy with everything happening at 4500rpm or later.
Anyway I took the car off the road almost a year ago now to strip it and put a roll cage in so I've had a fair bit of time to do some thinking and research.
An opportunity presented itself when i visited a local subaru dealer one day when I was offered a 2007 EJ257 short block for £500. This block was mistakenly replaced under warranty with only 3000 miles on it. I bought it to keep for maybe a future project. I decided to test the water and put the 2.0L short block I built earlier in this thread up for sale. I got a good price for it and so decided to use the 2.5 bottom end, my sti V5 heads and my newly acquired GT30R as my new engine.
For the time being I have decided to keep the 2.5 in stock form and run the GT30R at 1.3bar max
I do later plan to rebuild the short block and use either Omega Pistons and Arrow rods or Wiseco pistons and Crower rods. For now though the stock EJ257 will suffice.
The engine is all built up and I purchased RCMS's rotated turbo kit which I have to say is fantastic quality!
I have stripped and cleaned all the components and the valved have once again been lapped and re shimmed.
One of the key reasons I have decided to stay with the stock EJ257 is financial reasons.
Basically I am going to need an exedy twin plate clutch, for now I am still having to run the maf sensor because of my apexi power FC.
So the future plan will consist of a full rebuild using the following:
ACL race bearings
Pistons and rods
Full head port and polish
new cams and valves
and a Motec or similar ECU (maf less!!!)
I have also purchased a Blitz NUR spec R exhaust and an Apexi AVCR boost contoller.
Anyway the engine is built and ready to be dropped in here's a couple of pics.
Here's the new engine built.

Here is a pic of the new turbo setup including the rotated up pipe, down pipe and Tial 40mm external wastegate.
But basically the car is now a two seat, roll caged job.
I've also had a massive change of plans regarding the engin side of things.
I made my mind up on which turbo I wanted a long time ago. I went out in a 2.0L with the turbo of choice which is a garrett GT30R and I didn't particularly like how the car drove, it seamed very laggy with everything happening at 4500rpm or later.
Anyway I took the car off the road almost a year ago now to strip it and put a roll cage in so I've had a fair bit of time to do some thinking and research.
An opportunity presented itself when i visited a local subaru dealer one day when I was offered a 2007 EJ257 short block for £500. This block was mistakenly replaced under warranty with only 3000 miles on it. I bought it to keep for maybe a future project. I decided to test the water and put the 2.0L short block I built earlier in this thread up for sale. I got a good price for it and so decided to use the 2.5 bottom end, my sti V5 heads and my newly acquired GT30R as my new engine.
For the time being I have decided to keep the 2.5 in stock form and run the GT30R at 1.3bar max
I do later plan to rebuild the short block and use either Omega Pistons and Arrow rods or Wiseco pistons and Crower rods. For now though the stock EJ257 will suffice.
The engine is all built up and I purchased RCMS's rotated turbo kit which I have to say is fantastic quality!
I have stripped and cleaned all the components and the valved have once again been lapped and re shimmed.
One of the key reasons I have decided to stay with the stock EJ257 is financial reasons.
Basically I am going to need an exedy twin plate clutch, for now I am still having to run the maf sensor because of my apexi power FC.
So the future plan will consist of a full rebuild using the following:
ACL race bearings
Pistons and rods
Full head port and polish
new cams and valves
and a Motec or similar ECU (maf less!!!)
I have also purchased a Blitz NUR spec R exhaust and an Apexi AVCR boost contoller.
Anyway the engine is built and ready to be dropped in here's a couple of pics.
Here's the new engine built.

Here is a pic of the new turbo setup including the rotated up pipe, down pipe and Tial 40mm external wastegate.
Last edited by dazdavies; Sep 28, 2007 at 08:00 PM.
After a few initial post rebuild problems I now have it running nicely.
So I took it out for a run today with no boost control just the 0.8bar wastegate spring doing the work, obviously i didnt nail it because it hasn't been mapped but first impressions are its going to be very quick indeed.
Boost starts to build at around 3000rpm.
The sound it makes is now immense. The Blitz NUR spec R exhaust is THE best and nicest sounding exhaust I have owned. I have had the TSL firestorm, buddy club racing spec and now this. Coupled with the external wastegate and the 3 inch rotated setup it makes a lovely deep burble.
The noise from the turbo itself is just awesome as it begins to spool.
Cant wait to get it mapped and see what she really goes and sounds like.
Daz
So I took it out for a run today with no boost control just the 0.8bar wastegate spring doing the work, obviously i didnt nail it because it hasn't been mapped but first impressions are its going to be very quick indeed.
Boost starts to build at around 3000rpm.
The sound it makes is now immense. The Blitz NUR spec R exhaust is THE best and nicest sounding exhaust I have owned. I have had the TSL firestorm, buddy club racing spec and now this. Coupled with the external wastegate and the 3 inch rotated setup it makes a lovely deep burble.
The noise from the turbo itself is just awesome as it begins to spool.
Cant wait to get it mapped and see what she really goes and sounds like.
Daz
Last edited by dazdavies; Oct 10, 2007 at 04:44 PM.






front and rear. The doors will be taken off completely.









